zazalazagna.com
If you’d asked me, a couple of weeks ago, how I felt about caponata, the agrodolce (sweet-and-sour) Sicilian relish that is almost always made with eggplant, plus tomato, aromatics, olives, and capers, I would have shrugged. When had I last eaten it? On sad crostini, cold and clumpy? Ask me now and I’ll tell you that the other day I had caponata for lunch—not as a condiment or even a side dish, just straight caponata, directly from a plastic deli container, spectacular.
The caponata was made by Zahra Tangorra, the chef behind the late, beloved Cobble Hill Italian restaurant Brucie, who now operates a takeout operation called Zaza Lazagna. Her interpretation featured butternut squash instead of eggplant, plus white sweet potato, cauliflower, San Marzano tomatoes, sage, rosemary, raisins, Castelvetrano…