Twelve years ago, on the banks of the Mississippi, a pair of thru-paddling canoeists, new acquaintances, made plans to meet for a gimlet at Nye’s Polonaise, a Minneapolis dive identified by Esquire as the “best bar in America.” One, named Neal Moore, was a non-practicing Mormon in his late thirties who had grown up in Los Angeles, his back yard separated by razor wire from Richard Pryor’s. A former missionary, he called himself a “citizen journalist,” curious in a Twain-tinged way about the effects of the Great Recession. The other was Dick Conant, a Falstaffan vagabond in his late fifties who was “connecting rivers,” as he put it, en route to Virginia, for no apparent reason. He offered Moore a couple of pieces of advice: one, slow down, and two,…
