Although I can’t promise that every night at Contento, a new restaurant in East Harlem, is a party, I can report that, on a recent Saturday, around 10 P.M., when several patrons began to belt out “Seven Nation Army,” by the White Stripes, an employee rejoined by playing it on the sound system, inspiring an impromptu dining-room-wide rave. The following Tuesday, someone was marking another year around the sun; a rousing sing-along to Stevie Wonder’s “Happy Birthday” ensued.
There is much to celebrate at Contento, whose name is a Spanish cognate for “content,” as in “happy”: the opening itself, long delayed by COVID and longer dreamed of by its co-founder Yannick Benjamin, an accomplished sommelier and restaurant veteran (Le Cirque, Jean-Georges); Benjamin’s thoughtfully curated, internationally sourced wine list, with a…