If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to live with a Michelin-starred chef, you might try ordering from the delivery pop-up Ribs n Reds, available most weekends in Manhattan and parts of Brooklyn. During the first few months of the pandemic, the chef Bryce Shuman, whose midtown restaurant, Betony, closed in 2016, found himself cooking at home, for his wife, Jennifer—the special-events director at the NoMad Hotel, who was on furlough—and their six-year-old daughter, Emilia, a lot more than usual. Before March, he’d been working as a consultant and a private chef. Family dinners were something of a rarity, and suddenly having time for them felt like a silver lining.
But, Jennifer told me recently, “we did miss being in restaurants, and, doing what we do, we wondered, How could…