A few weekends ago at King Tai, a short and stout bar in Crown Heights, some one-hit wonders from the early eighties played as people who weren’t alive then considered what to drink. Above the bar, next to some metal elephant heads, was a chalkboard listing King Tai’s five cocktails, named #1 through #5. “We can’t all get a #3,” an organizationally minded customer objected. “If you get a #1, I’ll get a #3, and he’ll get a #5.” The cocktails, which are ten dollars apiece, make up for their minimalist names with particularly elaborate flavors that achieve mostly high highs, marred by only one low low. The #5 (Barr Hill gin, Cocchi Americano, Dimmi, grapefruit bitters) is a caustic confusion, but the #1 (Yaguara Cachaça Branca, apricot, Licor 43,…
