WINE, NATURALLY
Rachel Monroe, in her article about the rise of natural wine, is right that such wine has become a symbol of virtuous consumption (“On the Nose,” November 25th). But it’s not just socalled natural-wine-makers who are seeking to convey a sense of place in their wines; that’s the goal of all authentic winemakers. I recently attended SommCon, a leading wine conference in San Diego. There were offerings from Washington, Oregon, California, France, Portugal, Italy, New Zealand, and elsewhere; we learned to distinguish characteristics imbued by land, weather, winemaking practices, and the many other factors that go into crafting a bottle. The bottom line for wine drinkers is: Forget the ratings! Keep exploring, and, if you like it, it’s good.
Tom GableDel Mar, Calif.
Monroe correctly points out that…