Last month, Kwame Onwuachi, the twenty-nine-year-old chef and founder of the Washington, D.C., restaurant Kith/Kin, published a memoir, titled “Notes from a Young Black Chef,” about his life and career so far. On Twitter, he was commended for, among other things, “naming names” of superiors who he alleged had mistreated and humiliated him during his time as an intern and a line cook at some of Manhattan’s toniest restaurants. One of the chefs he worked for at Eleven Madison Park, though, was different: “a father figure” and a “healthy sane presence” who oversaw a kitchen that was “focused and quiet, intense but not unfriendly,” where Onwuachi was put on the fast track to a promotion.
That chef was James Kent, who left Eleven Madison Park in 2013 to run the…