In the sauna, the body asserts itself: essential, unavoidable, a fleshy fact of being. In the Finnish tradition—the original, Finns will argue—you’re naked, sitting near a wood-burning stove in two-hundred-degree heat, in a structure the size of a garden shed, pouring water on hot stones for a scalding hit of löyly, sauna steam, like some heat-seeking junkie. Stay long enough, and the mind may clear, the body may melt; then löyly! Enlightenment.
Risto Sivula, a Finn from north of Helsinki who now lives in St. Paul, Minnesota, has, for the past eight months, been driving around the country with a portable sauna attached to the back of his pickup truck. “We have about fourteen thousand miles on it so far, and about nine hundred and fifty people have taken a…
