John Lamb, the New York-born Revolutionary War hero, politician, and ardent Anti-Federalist, would have marvelled at the posh interiors of the John Lamb, a new bar and restaurant tucked into the basement of the Sago Hotel, on the Lower East Side. Indeed, Colonel Lamb, who made a successful living as a wine merchant, might have wondered, with a touch of trepidation, whether it’s a good thing to be “speakeasy meets steampunk,” as the bar bills itself, and how, exactly, one comes up with a cocktail named Bad Judgment (Jameson, cornflower syrup, egg white). Mike Belasco and Chris Judge, the resident mixologists, seem to draw inspiration from the pioneers’ America, with concoctions like the Johnny Appleseed, which is so indulgently dessert-like that you forget how little resemblance it bears to the…
