Tailored-denim napkins, butcher-block tableware, fermented, locavore, hearth-fired breads: down to the monochrome ceramics, this new West Village restaurant reads like a tableau in the cult life-style magazine Kinfolk. It all looks great, but is there enjoyment to be found in being perfect all the time? The chef, Eli Kulp, has said that the restaurant’s predecessor, Philadelphia’s acclaimed High Street on Market, was conceived around the baker Alex Bois’s whole-grain breads. Those unique and deeply flavorful loaves, such as the rich, dark anadama, fortified with molasses and cracked corn, have made the trip to New York, and serve as the hearty backbone of the restaurant’s many menus. Breakfast, lunch, dinner—High Street does it all, making it look so easy that you wonder why so many restaurants in the city are such…