ERIK RAMIREZ, a former sous-chef at Eleven Madison Park, recently opened a quirky portal to Lima, Peru, at a boho-swanky restaurant wedged under the shadow of the B.Q.E. in Williamsburg. While Ramirez’s roots in Manhattan’s anointed temple of fine dining might strike fear in fans of the Peruvianrotisserie-chicken chain Pio Pio (how can you elevate such perfection?), Llama Inn turns out to be fun, unusual, a little bit goofy, and extremely delicious.
The menu rides the waves of the Spanish, French, Amerindian, Chinese, and Japanese influences of the Peruvian melting pot. Anticuchos, the street snack of grilled skewered meats, included, on a recent night, perfect little bites of char-siu pork belly, topped with homemade pork rinds, and a wonderfully firm and fortifying beef heart. Fluke ceviche, with lime and red…