WHEN ARTISTS ARGUE WITH CRITICS, wise men and women seek shelter. Pete Wells, the Times’ estimable restaurant reviewer, not long ago went after Vaucluse, the new brasserie from the Altamarea group (Marea, Ai Fiori), whose C.E.O. then responded angrily, and in public. We look to criticism not for truth but as a sort of gladiatorial contest, even a bullfight, with the reviewer in his suit of lights goading the poor creative animal. When the bull writes a letter of protest to the local paper, we don’t know which way to look.
What, then, does a late arriver to the combat make, fair-mindedly, of Vaucluse? Certainly, with its double-sized rooms and satisfied murmur, it perfectly invokes the Upper East Side: not your parents’ Le Cirque-style U.E.S. of boastful big money but…