THIS SUMMER, TWITTER WAS SET ablaze by a controversial recipe for guacamole that called for green peas. At the Black Ant, in the East Village, the house guacamole varies; it has been studded with garbanzo beans, fried corn, orange slices, jicama, radishes, and even cheese. But it is always finished with ants. The garnish, to be precise, is sal de hormiga, or salt with ground-up chicatanas—large, winged leaf-cutter ants, harvested once a year, in the Mexican region of Oaxaca. The ants taste somewhere between nutty and buttery, with a chemical tang, and lend the salt a bit of umami. There are no peas in sight at the Black Ant, where unusual ingredients are esteemed and insects are the crown jewels.
Unless you know the Spanish word chapulín, you may not…