Cuisine and Empire: Cooking in World History
by Rachel Laudan
University of California Press, 464 pp., $39.95
Cumin, Camels, and Caravans: A Spice Odyssey
by Gary Paul Nabhan
University of California Press, 305 pp., $29.95
Until recently food was largely of interest to economists, sociologists, and anthropologists, whereas historians have tended to view the subject as marginal, if not downright frivolous. Ever since Claude Lévi-Strauss drew attention to the symbolism of the raw and the cooked, allusions to cooking have made their way into social history. Major events such as famines, grain hoarding, and cannibalism have found a historical niche by drawing attention to the dependence of nations and individuals on growing food, as well as processing, cooking, and eating it. Social scientists have commented on what they call commensality,…