AWESTRUCK, DUMBSTRUCK, IMMOBILE. I’ve never felt so moved by a mountain before. Kangchenjunga (8586m), king of the eastern Himalayas, rock God to Sikkim’s Lepcha people. Its ‘Five Great Treasuries of the Snow’ store spiritual nourishment for humanity, they say, and its positivity descends from the heights, into people and objects below. From where I’m standing, at Oktang (4730m) in eastern Nepal, surveying the route where George Band and Joe Brown first climbed the world’s third-highest mountain 70 years ago, I’m getting positive vibes aplenty.
Kangchenjunga has inspired people of different times, places and cultures to acts of devotion, obsession or achievement. Doug Scott, who made the first oxygen-free ascent in 1979 via the north-west ridge, called it “The Himalayan Giant” – “most impressive”, “most religious”, “most avalanche-active” and “most affected…