Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2024 i The Great Outdoors

ADYA MISRA was scared the first time she stepped off a pontoon and into a kayak. Whilst living in Stockholm in the 2010s – drawn to the Swedes’ love of landscape – her friend invited her out on the water for a summer day that “changed my life”. Until then, outdoor activities had not been available to Adya, and she spent the day “trying not to embarrass myself ”. But she was hooked on this “hypnotic” water-bound activity, finding she could “escape and recalibrate”. Upon returning to England, Adya attended a club three or four times a week, exploring the coastline and sea caves of our island nation as she learned techniques, tides and trip planning. Now 37 and living in Wirral, Adya gave up her 24/7 gig in academia…

MOUNTAIN RINGLET TYPICALLY FOUND flitting across mountainsides at altitudes of between 450 and 800m on short flights, the mountain ringlet (Erebia epiphron) is Britain’s only truly montane butterfly species. It forms discrete colonies, sometimes in the hundreds, and is best spotted in the summer months basking in the sun on bright days. The mountain ringlet feeds on the flowers of tormentil or heath bedstraw so it usually flies close to the ground. On an overcast or cool day, adults will remain sheltered deep in tussocky grass – so watch your step. It is thought the mountain ringlet recolonised our isles after the first Ice Age. However, these unassuming brown-winged insects were only rediscovered in 1809 in Ambleside and in 1844 in Perthshire. Lepidopterists are bemused by its absence from the…

“…and the one in the middle goes hey diddle diddle/God, he’s just a pretty face” Manfred Mann ACTUALLY, Beinn Tarsuinn does have an extremely pretty face. It’s called the Meadow Face, is 800 feet high, distinguished by three soaring cracklines, looks into Coire a’ Bhradain with its large, wary flocks of red deer, and is composed for the most part – excepting the occasional loose block or sugary surface skin – of massive grey granite. Coire a’ Bhradain’s a prime place in the Scottish hills: an impressive hanging valley at an altitude of 400 metres, debouching into Glen Rosa, the longest, quaggiest, most impressive of Arran’s valleys. For some years archaeologists have been digging at the site of a Bronze Age settlement here. I know places like this at much…

Flysheet materials Silicone-coated fabrics are light and durable. PU-coated nylon or polyester is heavier and less durable but costs less. New fabrics are now entering the market that offer less stretch and less absorbency. Inner materials Breathable nylon or polyester resists drips from condensation and keeps out breezes. In warm weather optional mesh doors are useful. Mesh inners are cooler and airier but not as warm, especially in a breeze, and condensation can drip through unless the mesh is very fine. Groundsheets Groundsheets should be made from heavier fabrics than flysheets and have a higher hydrostatic head. Some makers recommend using an optional ‘footprint’ under light groundsheets. These add weight and cost. Inner dimensions The inner should be long enough that your sleeping bag and mat don’t push against the…

10 varied routes in Scotland, England and Wales Unlike our island’s nature-depleted landscapes, the romance of taking the train to a high and beautiful place is timeless. Whilst the bus perhaps lacks some of the nostalgia of rail travel, public transport is still a rewarding way to reach your start and end points. Not only can you cover more ground on linear walks through the landscape, you can also feel good about alleviating some of the pressure on rural communities through emissions, parking and congestion. Here, our Wild Walks team rally for some of the finest car-free walks in Britain, including a Corbett round from the UK’s highest mainline station. No spoilers, but we’re sure they’ll make your heart race! Our walks this month 1 Glas Bheinn & Leum Uilleim…

11km/6.8 miles/5.3 hours Ascent 1241m/4072ft Ian Battersby uncovers the power hidden within a mountain BEN CRUACHAN storms up from woods, lochs and glens to join an assorted bunch of near neighbours, whose pointed peaks pierce the skies of an undulating ridge, and Cruachan, at 1126m, reigns supreme. Energy is needed to power up surging gradients further defended by an army of trees and tangled undergrowth. But once on top, enjoy the scene, and gloat in the downhill dash, converting potential energy gains into smiles. Whilst Cruachan is happy to display a wondrous landscape from on high, it is more reluctant to give away the resourceful secret buried within. Also known as the ‘hollow mountain’, there are few clues to give away its adopted role. There is a reservoir dam, and…

19.8km/12.3 miles/7 hours Ascent 675m/2215ft Roger Butler crosses an ‘outlying fell’ and ends with his feet in the sea THE GREAT WHALEBACK of Black Combe forms a backdrop on many Lake District outings, and it’s always worth heading west to wander across this sprawling fell, which almost dips its toes in the Irish Sea. A long linear walk across the rolling ridge can be combined with a rattling train ride back to Broughton-in-Furness. An old proverb recalls the Viking raiders who used to sweep down the west coast of Cumbria: ‘Nowt good comes round Black Combe’. But that’s all in the past now, and excellent routes lead over this broad, domed massif on the north side of the Duddon Estuary. The views are quite special – half sea, half Lakeland…

19.5km/12 miles*/6-7 hours** Ascent 945m/3100ft Fiona Barltrop recommends a fine ridge-top walk over unfrequented hills SITUATED in the southernmost part of Eryri/Snowdonia are the lovely, little-walked Tarren Hills, which run down to the sea at Aberdovey. Separated from Cadair Idris by the Dysynni Valley and Tal-y-llyn Lake, and from Plynlimon by the Dovey (Dyfi in Welsh), this compact range of hills provides some excellent crowdfree walking, notably on the fine ridge that extends for several miles in a south-west direction from the Tarrens’ highest point, Tarren y Gesail (667m/2188ft). The only other 2000+ft top is Tarrenhendre, whose north-eastern slopes are largely swathed in forest, whilst to the south-west the terrain is mostly grassy and smooth-rolling. The popular seaside resort of Aberdovey is served by the scenic Cambrian Line, with trains…

IN THIS ISSUE Meet some of the folk who made this mag… Fiona Chappell is a freelance Summer, Winter and International Mountain Leader (ML). She has led groups in France, Spain, Switzerland and Nepal but lives in Aviemore, ideal for working in the Cairngorms. Otherwise, Fi is likely found walking, climbing or skiing. This summer, she is looking forward to working on ML training and assessments with a break to the Alps for climbing and trekking. In our summer special (page 50), she shares tips on reading mountain weather. Norman Hadley is an engineer, mathematician and poet. Outdoors, he’s a keen fell runner, lapsed mountain biker, wimpish wild swimmer and recovering wild camper. He gets out on the Wainwrights as often as is decent, having patrolled these hills since the age…

Postal address The Editor, The Great Outdoors, Kelsey Publishing Ltd, The Granary, Downs Court, Yalding Hill, Yalding, Kent ME18 6AL. Please include a phone number and postal address. Beware not only the bear! In our April issue, Mark Waring recounted his walk with bears in Tombstone. It resonated with one reader, who backpacked through the park two decades ago – and he wrote to us to warn about another local critter Mark didn’t mention… Thank you for Mark Waring’s excellent report of his hike into the Yukon’s Tombstone Territorial Park. It brought back lots of vivid memories from a similar expedition I made 20 years ago. Back then there was no registration system, no requirement for passes and no managed campsites. There were vestiges of trails here and there, but…

Since 2008, fell top assessor Jon Bennett, 61, has been part of the three-person team who summit Lakeland fells (usually Helvellyn with its large east face, which holds winter in its grasp for longer) daily throughout winter in order to deliver weather reports. His actual ‘boots-on-the-ground’ information has allowed mountaineers to make informed decisions before their ascents. Jon has seen conditions on the mountain change over the years – for example, Christmas Day 2023 was the first he recorded not a flake of snow on Helvellyn. And he has gathered a plethora of advice, such as: get good winter kit (including thin glove liners and winter glove wrist leashes!) and be prepared to turn back. We owe him a debt of gratitude as he embarks on a retirement ‘keep fit’…

IT’S THE SOUND of falling rocks that we notice first. Somewhere in the vast glacial bowl where we’re walking, there’s a sudden knock and a clatter. We stop and look around, across the scree and rubble, scanning for the source of the echo. Of course, we can’t pick it out until it moves once more: the confident, patient form of a camoscio. Once it notices us, the camoscio – better known as a chamois – shrieks. It’s a strained, high-pitched bark, a sound at odds with the animal’s soft, unostentatious form. It skips lightly down static streams of broken rock, before turning to watch us move far less certainly through the clutter at our feet. It shrieks once more, as if to mock our unsteadiness, then picks its easy route…

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28.5km/17.7 miles/10-12 hours Ascent 1249m/4098ft Stefan Durkacz takes the train into the heart of the Central Highlands SCOTLAND’S West Highland Line gives adventure-seekers access to the vast country around Rannoch Moor. Corrour station is a welcoming oasis amidst the moors and mountains, and a great place to start and finish your adventures. Refreshments can be had at the station’s teahouse, and there’s a youth hostel nearby at Loch Ossian. Our route squeezes a lot into a day and a half, or one long day (for the super-fit) in summer: two Corbetts, two bothies and fine walking on long-distance rights of way. Glas Bheinn commands a particularly stunning panorama, from the Nevis range and Grey Corries in the north to the Glen Coe peaks in the south. This route can be…

24km/15 miles/8.5-9 hours Ascent 1457m/4780ft Vivienne Crow climbs to a high ridge and walks and walks… WANT RIDGEWALKING? You’ve got ridgewalking! Want to stride out for mile after mile after mile? Yup! This one’s got that too. Want to hike for hours on end without dropping below 620m? No problem! The end-to-end traverse of the entire Helvellyn range takes in a 12km-long line of summits, starting from the 726m Clough Head in the north, stretching to Dollwaggon Pike (858m) in the south and taking in the 950m summit of England’s third highest mountain along the way. Also bagging Great Dodd, Watson’s Dodd, Stybarrow Dodd, Raise, White Side and Nethermost Pike, it hovers around the 750m contour for much of the time. Of course, it’s a long walk with a fair…

17.7km/11 miles/5.5-6 hours Ascent 634m/2080ft Vivienne Crow uses the Settle-Carlisle Railway to visit one of the ‘Three Peaks’ DOES YORKSHIRE have mountains? I think we can safely conclude that many of neighbouring Cumbria’s fells look and feel like mountains, but Yorkshire…? The highest point is Whernside, but it’s really only worthy of the moniker ‘hill’. (I’m sorry, Yorkshire! I love you dearly, but…) The second-highest summit, though, gives me reason to hesitate. Ingleborough. Its north face is a jumble of crags, scree and shattered boulders, its distinctive, tiered outline identifiable from miles away. The summit plateau is bleak, largely bereft of vegetation and scoured by the wind. It feels like the real thing! Making use of the Settle-Carlisle Railway, I recently climbed Ingleborough from Horton-in-Ribblesdale. The meandering approach took in…

26km/16 miles/6-7 hours Ascent 677m/2221ft Nike Werstroh drinks in stunning views less than an hour from London THE NORTH DOWNS WAY (NDW) long-distance trail, starting in Farnham, traverses the Surrey Hills and continues via the Kent Downs to Dover. With frequent trains from London, many sections of the trail can make a great day out from the capital. This route joins the NDW outside Gomshall and follows a chalky ridge dotted with pillboxes and with fine views of the rolling Surrey Hills. It skirts around Denbies Estate, England’s biggest vineyard, where award-winning sparkling wines are produced. It climbs the iconic Box Hill, then passes through woodland to Colley Hill, where you will be greeted with excellent views. Before leaving the NDW, allow some time to explore the remnants of Reigate Fort,…

Men around the country are suffering because we don’t always find the words to let them speak. Mary-Ann Ochota asks if walking is the solution “ALRIGHT?” “YEAH, not bad. You?” “Yeah, yeah, fine thanks. Anyway, about this GPS/route/pub/tent…” And then it’s gone. The chance to ask, actually ask, how someone is, slips away. I’ve spent whole weekends walking with friends talking about everything and nothing, and it’s only on the drive home that something important is teased into the open. A health worry, a family torment, a work thing, an acknowledgement that I’m-just-not-feeling-quite-right-in-my-head-at-the-moment. Other times, it may never come to the fore. I know people who will spend the rest of their lives regretting the conversation they never had with a loved one or friend. A mate from overseas once…

Hello THE GREAT OUTDOORS is the UK’s original mountain magazine. We have been inspiring people to explore high places and equipping them with the knowledge they need for almost 45 years. Through compelling writing and beautifully illustrated stories, we convey the joy of adventure, the thrill of mountainous and wild environments, and the wonder of the natural world. We’re here to help you make the most of your time in the outdoors. As well as stunning photography and top-class writing, our gear reviewers are the country’s most experienced team – and we always ensure clothing and equipment is put through its paces in the right places. Our essential skills advice is reinforced by top outdoor instructors and guides. Plus, we have teamed up with trusted purveyors of premium head torches…

Cost With recent price rises, some meals are now £10.99-11.99. This can add up, so if provisioning a long trip it’s worth looking at cheaper brands. More expensive meals are often made from higher-quality ingredients and have fewer additives. Calories You could be burning 2-3000 more calories on a long hill day than you would in everyday life, making high-energy food essential. Look for at least 500kcal in a meal – ideally more. In winter I prefer at least 800kcal. Weight Lighter is better, but only if the food gives you enough energy. This is why it’s useful to know how many calories/100g the food offers. Taste and texture On a long trip, look for variety – you may find yourself getting bored of old favourites. Better-quality products tend to…

22.1km/13.7 miles/7-8 hours Ascent 974m/3196ft Alex Roddie jumps on the train to explore a Corbett above Blair Atholl ONE OF THE PLEASURES of getting to know a single area intimately over many years is that it soon stops being about the big attractions and starts being about the subtler charms. For me, the Blair Atholl area is a bit like that. I’ve been visiting regularly for more than a decade and still feel as if I’ve only just scratched the surface. One of the reasons why I visit so often is that it’s very accessible by public transport – both train and bus. This made it a feasible base even when I lived down south in England. Now, based near the Angus Glens, I can easily head there for a…

24.1km/15 miles/9 hours Ascent 1196m/3924ft James Forrest ditches the car to tick off six Wainwrights IF YOU FANCY ditching the car, there are two main access points to the Lake District by train: Windermere (via Oxenholme) and Penrith North Lakes. With a long weekend, you could even walk between to the two stations on a three-day wild camping expedition with a twist. But if you only have a day spare, this 24km linear route is an excellent alternative. Starting at Windermere, the route first climbs the 238m Orrest Head, where a young Alfred Wainwright first set eyes across Lakeland. After a linking section across farmland, next comes a delightful ridgewalk over the Kentmere fells, including the rolling Wainwright trio of Yoke, Ill Bell and Froswick, before picking up the ancient…

17.9km/11.1 miles/6 hours Ascent 689m/2261ft Ian Battersby sees what’s on offer from England’s highest mainline station IT MAY SEEM strange to disembark from the train and begin the day with a descent, but when that station is Dent, and morning cloud shrouds the tops, the vale is the place to avoid the veil, and what a magical dale it is. River Dee dippers hunt the pools between rapids churning below trees and between limestone walls softened by verdant moss. Lush pastures sweep to rougher, steeper moorland grasses, down which many streams cut their trundle, some flying down waterfalls, to augment the Dee. All this set beneath brooding railway arches. With luck sun or wind dispense with the cloud, and we chase it up the hill. Blea Moor is not only…