Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2023 i The Great Outdoors

tgo.ed@kelsey.co.uk Postal address The Editor, The Great Outdoors, Kelsey Publishing Ltd, The Granary, Downs Court, Yalding Hill, Yalding, Kent ME18 6AL. Please include a phone number and postal address. Winds of change are coming to Skye The installation of wind farms in our hills is a hotly debated topic previously tackled by our columnist Mary-Ann Ochota. Whilst she came down generally in favour of green solutions, one of our readers has recently written to The Great Outdoors to express her environmental concerns about proposed turbines on her home isle of Skye. Here, nine new wind farm are proposed, along with the ‘repowering’ (replacing 100-metrehigh turbines with 200-metre-high turbines to enable a greater amount of power to be generated by each turbine) of two existing wind farms. Here’s what she had…

The vivid colours and watery sunlight on the hills means only one thing: autumn is on its way. Needless to say, our readers are looking forward to the crunch of fallen leaves under-boot and the newly crisp air on the tops. Here are some of the photographs you’ve been sharing with us on social media with a distinctly autumnal feel… “It’s an amazing feeling waking up to an incredible sunrise in a beautiful place like the Peak District. Camping doesn’t always go to plan but this one certainly did!” “Counting down the days until I can get back out on a wild camp in the Lake District like this one. Autumn is my favourite as temperatures start to drop and golds and browns start to become prominent in the landscape…”…

THE FIRST TIME I went wild camping, I was 27 and nervous. My friend Hannah was appalled. “Are you even allowed to do that? Where are you going to sleep? Where will you go to the toilet?! And when you get murdered, they won’t even know where to look for the body…” she finished flatly. My friend’s fears curdled my confidence, but it was too late to back out because I’d already bought an army surplus bivvy bag from eBay and I didn’t want to send it back. That first wild camp thankfully turned out to be a joyful experience. I was thrilled by the freedom and self-sufficiency, in tune with the rhythm of my adventure rather than aiming for an arbitrary end point and a prebooked pitch. I didn’t…

This year I challenged myself to do things out of my comfort zone. My first coast-tocoast – around 180 miles from Portavadie to Arbroath – was slightly daunting in planning and researching the route. Emma Warbreck, my vetter, was a great help. I cleverly planned a night in my own bed in Arrochar along The Cowal Way, which somewhat confused Sue and Ali, who were expecting a campsite. I washed my clothes, showered, enjoyed a prepared dinner and watched Loreen from Sweden win the Eurovision song contest! Good planning is essential but luck played a part, too. I was able to get fresh salmon and vegetables delivered to me at Glendaruel campsite, and I saw my first red squirrel at Invergeldie from the Devil’s Cauldron. This was touching moment; a…

This year was one of my best crossings so far. I had a high-level route planned from Dornie to Johnshaven, taking in five Munros, nine Corbetts and three Grahams plus a few other hills. There was very little overlap with my previous crossings so the vast majority of my route was new ground for me. The weather was kind to us this year, which meant that I was able to stick to my planned high-level route – and for the first time on a TGO Challenge I actually climbed every hill on my route sheet! I had some excellent secluded camps in the hills, and only had company for two of my nine wild camps. My favourite two camps were coincidentally my first and last of the crossing. The first…

“I thought I’d be able to deal with any situation, but this was one I couldn’t.” I plotted an ambitious route for my 12th TGOC, but this year turned out to be challenging in a way I hadn’t planned. I started with an extremely tough day climbing two Knoydart Munros en route to Barrisdale. I hadn’t got my mountain legs yet. The next day I got to Lochhournhead Tearoom later than expected. It was unseasonably hot, so heading up the glen toward Alltbeithe I stopped at an inviting stream for a dip. Here’s where things went wrong! I’d had a hip replacement four years ago (cycling accident), and my over-tired leg flopped the wrong way momentarily and dislocated out of joint. I couldn’t move. The pain was unbearable. I was…

“Alex sent us on our way next morning with a Scottish reel played on his fiddle.” I first heard about TGOC more than a decade ago, in awe of those who had completed the Challenge, but too intimidated to attempt it. Fast forward to 2023, and I’m at Shiel Bridge about to embark on the Challenge along the Affric Kintail Way. By day four, I had reached Drumnadrochit, to catch the ferry across Loch Ness skippered by Gordon Menzies, a TGOC legend. He’s been ferrying Challengers for decades, entertaining them with his amusing anecdotes. Across the Loch, Ault na Goire is home to the Sutherlands, who have opened up their home and hearts to Challengers. A large pot of tea was waiting on arrival, and delicious home-cooked food was served.…

£130  430g (L) warmth, fast wicking, neck gaiter, pockets, hood nothing Fabric: Polartec Power Grid, Polartec Power Wool neck gaiter/mask Front closure: YKK zip with inner flap Pockets: 2 chest Hem: stretch Cuffs: stretch Sizes: men XS-2XL, women 8-18 berghaus.com Berghaus’s new MTN Guide MW Hoody has a much more interesting and practical design than most fleece jackets. Firstly it’s made from Polartec Power Grid, a bi-component fabric that wicks moisture fast and disperses moisture quickly. Two weights are used, with lighter fabric under the arms for faster moisture transfer. The grid pattern also helps breathability. The jacket also has an unusual sewn-in neck gaiter, which can be pulled up as a mask. This gaiter is made from Polartec Power Wool, another bi-component material with merino wool on the inside…

£170 263g (M) amount of insulation perfectly dialled, thumb loops none Fill: 40gsm PrimaLoft Gold Active+, 55% recycled Shell: 20D Pertex Quantum Air Hood: none Cuffs: non-elasticated, thumb loops Hem: single drawcord Pockets: 2 handwarmer, 1 chest, all zipped Sizes: S-XL Women’s version: no (nearest is the Xenair Alpine Hoody, with 60gsm PrimaLoft) rab.equipment The Xenair light is my perfect active insulation layer, with all the features I need and none of the fuss. Warmth is provided by 40gsm of PrimaLoft Gold Active +, with a sizable quota of recycled content. Crucially, the underarms aren’t insulated at all. The shell is 20D Pertex, which balances breathability with a decent amount of durability. The DWR is lasting well even after several washes. On its own over a baselayer in cool, calm…

15km/9.3 miles/5-5.5 hours Ascent 718m/2354ft TO STAND in the centre of an island and gaze from one coast to another is always uplifting, but when that island is Britain and you’re standing on a stretch that is 160km wide, then that moment is as special as it is rare. So it was when I climbed Broughton Heights in Tweeddale and discovered that not only could I see the Firth of Forth, but the mountains of Arran were also visible on the distant, western horizon. Broughton Heights consists of a series of rounded summits along a spine of high ground, culminating in the trig pillar on Pyked Stane Hill (571m). Starting from the village of Broughton, this walk approaches the easy-going ridge via a good track beside Hollows Burn, following the waymarked…

21.1km/13.1 miles/6 hours Ascent 386m/1266ft THE MAP of Hamsterley Forest may not entice wild walkers with its huge expanse of conifer monoculture carrying a gloomy prospect of monotonous views from bulldozed trails, but it is possible to select itineraries that course through many redeeming broadleaf sanctuaries and enjoy diverse wildlife flourishing within. The best time for a visit for these treasures is, of course, autumn. The forestry is riven by rivulets and streams, animated by their tumble from nearby moorland, and this route picks out two of the best. Bedburn Beck carves channels through dark rock, embellished by verdant verges of moss. Ayhope Beck wriggles through trees onto upland heath, and lends a navigational hand when paths dwindle into bracken and heather. Any season is good for Hamsterley, whilst Knitsley…

13.5km/8.5 miles/5 hours Ascent 280m/920ft OUR HILLS and dales never fail to surprise, and the unexpected stone-splattered top known as Roystone Rocks is unlike anywhere else in the White Peak. This is the sort of place where you are allowed to use your imagination: it’s a ruined village; it’s a mini-Utah; it’s the cover of a famous Pink Floyd LP; it’s a jumble of boulders melted and moulded by a malevolent wizard. Chequerboard walls and crumpled shallow valleys stretch in every direction but, from the low ragged summit, the real eye-catcher is the distant clump of trees on top of Minninglow Hill. This resembles a crown topped with jewels – the result of new planting that encloses tall over-mature beech trees – and it marks the location of important tombs…

Hanna Lindon is a freelance outdoors journalist who has been writing about walking and climbing mountains for more than15 years. Her memorable bucket list treks include Sri Lanka’s Adam’s Peak and the Gavarnie-Ordesa Circuit in the Pyrenees. Closer to home, she recently returned from Eryri/Snowdonia, where she ticked the Llech Ddu Spur and Nantlle Ridge off her ‘40 things to do before 40’ list. Kirsty Pallas is a mountaineering instructor, and Mountain Safety Advisor for Mountaineering Scotland. Originally from the west coast of Scotland, she’s in the mountains in all weathers, quite often getting midged or soaked (handy for rigorous gear testing, as she does in this issue, on p62). Kirsty has been a member of Oban Mountain Rescue for 10 years; and when she’s not volunteering, she enjoys mountain biking…

In a recent issue of The Great Outdoors, Andy Wasley shared his experience of walking the Cape Wrath Trail (CWT) – along with his hard-earned tips and tricks. Combining the challenge of a 370 kilometre (230 mile) multi-day hike with some of Scotland’s most spectacular scenery, the CWT has achieved a certain notoriety as Britain’s ‘toughest’ hike. It certainly got our readers’ fingers tapping on keys. Here’s what you had to say… Jessica Jones (@jessermaroo/Instagram) Just back from my second CWT adventure. I completed the Glenfinnan to Inverie section solo in 2021, and just got back from heading south from Cape Wrath to Shiel Bridge. Totally amazing experience but by far the most brutal thing I have done. I had fair weather most days except the last, when it poured…

STARLING MURMURATIONS WITH THE ARRIVAL of autumn comes the starling roost. As the birds flock together – sometimes in their tens of thousands – they fly in unison in one of nature’s most hypnotising sights. It is thought that the starlings swoop and weave almost as one entity in these murmurations to confuse predators with safety in numbers, to keep warm at night, and to communicate feeding areas for insects and fruit. This mass aerial stunt occurs at dusk over roosting sites in rural areas up and down the UK – including RSPB reserves as well as at Gretna Green in Dumfries and Galloway, and famously Brighton Pier – with numbers swelling from November. Most likely seen in a group, the starling (Sturnus vulgaris) looks black at a distance but…

AK SUU TRAVERSE START: Jyrgalan FINISH: Jeti Oguz Resort Length: 110km / 68 miles Ascent: 7155m Season: June to September Difficulty: high Tell people that you’ve completed the Ak Suu Traverse, and you’re more likely to get blank looks than a pat on the back. But if you’re not fussed about the prestige that comes with completing a famous trek, this little-known hike across Kyrgyzstan’s Tian Shan Mountains is a worthy contender for your bucket list. Why? Well, the unearthly beauty of the high ranges that march across north-eastern Kyrgyzstan is a good place to start. This route takes in their highlights over 7 to 10 days, lurching precipitously from verdant valleys up to high passes clothed in scree and snow, then back down again past glaciers and rocky outcrops…

I knew it would be my toughest Challenge so far and that it would be beyond painful. But after almost one year of ‘non-life’, I wanted to see where, what and who I still was. Andrew Walker, a friend from the TGOC family, and I plotted a route including the major Challenger meeting points, keeping daily mileage realistic (although totally surreal) and leaving me regularly accessible hitchhiking options just in case. It was 272km cut in 12 steps with an average distance of 14 miles… 6 more than my longest walk since the accident. Although everything had been carefully planned, I didn’t feel strong enough to face certain disappointment and probable failure. I started my ‘personal’ challenge at Shiel Bridge, not sure if I would make it to my first…

“How are you getting back?” asked the driver of the 08:00 Arbroath to Oban service. On a bus full of day-trippers, I was one of the few without a return booking. “I’m walking,” I replied, nervously pointing at my pack. “Yes, all the way.” The relief of setting off from Oban on a bright spring morning was soon eclipsed by the pain of 25km of road walking in a heatwave. Could I sustain this for two weeks? Would five Nurofen be enough? By day five, I had completed the long haul up the north-west shore of Loch Etive, up to the King’s House, across Rannoch Moor and north-west to Loch Garry. Normal Scottish weather had almost returned, the aches and pains had eased, and I had settled into a hypnotic…

After four days of heat, the morning light has revealed a fresh dusting of snow on the Grey Corries, and I am working my way up a trackless ascent of Coire Ceirsle towards Leana Mhor. The clouds play a slow dance with the sunlight, and there’s a gentle rising of the mists covering the great north face of Ben Nevis. I make a note to keep watch on their progress as I haul myself up through the heather and bog, and then remember. It doesn’t matter if I get to camp at 5pm or 6pm. It doesn’t matter if I stop a couple of kilometres short. It is day five of The TGO Challenge and there are still ten days in front of me. I have the freedom to stop,…

Hello THE GREAT OUTDOORS is the UK’s original mountain magazine. We have been inspiring people to explore high places and equipping them with the knowledge they need for almost 45 years. Through compelling writing and beautifully illustrated stories, we convey the joy of adventure, the thrill of mountainous and wild environments, and the wonder of the natural world. We’re here to help you make the most of your time in the outdoors. As well as stunning photography and top-class writing, our gear reviewers are the country’s most experienced team – and we always ensure clothing and equipment is put through its paces in the right places. Our essential skills advice is reinforced by top outdoor instructors and guides. Our roster of contributors ranges from world-renowned outdoor experts and authors to…

The air is cooling and things are beginning to feel decidedly autumnal out of doors. The heather bloom has come and gone in its short-lived burst of colour, and we hillwalkers can now start to look forward to the crunch of leaves beneath our boots and the last of the summer sunlight dancing across the tops from behind clouds beckoning winter’s arrival. With all that awaiting us – and not a pumpkin spiced latte in sight – our Wild Walks section features contributors’ favourite places to enjoy the shorter daylight hours of autumn, from the Cairngorms down to Dartmoor. Our walks this month 1 Meall a’ Bhuachaille Cairngorms 2 Broughton Heights & Trehenna Hill Southern Uplands 4 Birkside Fell Northumberland 3 Cairn Table & River Ayr Ayrshire 5 Pikeston Fell Teesdale…

14.5km/9 miles/6-7 hours Ascent 436m/1430ft AYRSHIRE, the land of Covenanters, Robert Burns and lead and coal mining, isn’t usually top of mind as a hillwalking destination. There’s often a post-industrial feel in the valleys, overlooked by a skyline of bleak, boggy moorlands and bare, humpbacked hills. It’s a landscape that feels quite reminiscent of the Welsh valleys or the Forest of Pendle, similarly touched by old industry and haunted by shadowy remains of pre-Christian cultures. Wind turbines now cluster on many hilltops whilst the lower slopes are in places littered with ruins and pocked with shafts from an earlier age of lead mining, and scarred by more recent opencast coal mining. The great, gloomy brow of Cairn Table looms over the old ‘leid toun’ of Muirkirk from the south. It’s…

10.7km/6.6 miles/4-5 hours Ascent 672m/2205ft IF THERE’S EVER an excuse to stay low in Lakeland to admire the autumnal burst of colour, it can be found below the Western Fells at Buttermere. Our bare upland areas, once cloaked in forestry, don’t offer much in the way of the crunch of fallen leaves under boot many of us crave post-summer. So, for a woodland walk, there can be no more picturesque option than the bustling shores of Buttermere. It’s popular for a reason, after all. This walk is quite accessible, with well-kept paths along the eastern shore. Whilst the ascent of Fleetwith Pike is steep, it’s also short and very sweet. You’ll no doubt want to take it slow and stop every few steps to enjoy the view down to Buttermere…

12km/7.5 miles/4 hours Ascent 480m/1575ft CASTELL DINAS BRAN, the ruined medieval castle sited upon a steep-sided hill above Llangollen, has an association with crows. Today the rampart ruins offer a bird’s-eye view over the River Dee, just as they would have done when they were constructed in the 13th Century at the behest of the Princes of Powys Fadog. From these heights the eagle-eyed can pick out the Vale of Eglwyseg, site of the ruins of Valle Crucis Abbey, a Cistercian monastery of the same vintage. Beyond these, on a raised mound in the middle of a meadow, stands Croes Elisedd (Eliseg’s Pillar). The monument, which pre-dates the Abbey by 400 years, holds an important place in the national identity of Wales. It was erected by Cyngen ap Cadell in…

THE CAIRNGORMS feel like home to Jenny Sturgeon, who spent her childhood exploring this unique landscape. In adulthood, its plateau, nooks and crannies are still unique despite their familiarity. As seasons shift, Jenny tells The Great Outdoors, so does the quality of light and sound of the place – an ever-altering essence driving the 36-year-old musician’s album The Living Mountain. This audiovisual concept album is inspired by Nan Shepherd’s seminal book of the same name, which engrossed Jenny upon first reading. Each song is dedicated to a chapter exploring the water, mist, life and senses of these mountains. Much like plotting a route into the Cairngorms, Jenny likes that “there are no rules to songwriting… There are tools and techniques to make the process easier, but creating a song is…

Following Peter Macfarlane’s flasks review in the October edition of TGO, reader Nick Goodyer got in touch with this opinion: “The temperature retention figures Peter gives for each flask would surely depend on their capacity, as a larger capacity has a small surfaceto-volume ratio, so the contents would stay hotter than they would in a small one. It’s hard to gauge the accuracy of the figures he gives when the size of the flasks he tested isn’t stated.” Here’s Pete’s response… The temperature retention figures are indeed to some extent dependent on individual flask volume. Stanley has available figures for just that, indicating 20% longer heat retention time for a 40% volume increase in the next model up from the model in the review. No one gives exact temperature figures…

“Liathach, 3,456 feet, Beinn Alligin, 3,232 feet, and Slioch, 3,217 feet, these are just three more of these splendid Torridonian peaks – clear of peat from 1,750 feet upwards – and some of the peaks have a white cap of quartzite. The sudden change from wet peat-laden terraces to the upper slopes of bare rock, or thin covering of brash and alpine vegetation, results in a sharp snow line in winter which gives these hills a special seasonal beauty.” The Highlands and Islands (J Morton Boyd & F Fraser Darling) TORRIDON! A jewel of a place, its hills amongst the finest in Britain. If you’re a serious Munroist you’ll surely want to experience the trio named in the preamble. As described in a previous piece for this column I’d already…

What is challenging about the TGO Challenge? Who better to explain it than the organisers themselves… ON ONE LEVEL, the answer is simple: walking across Scotland on a route you’ve designed yourself requires a fair bit of effort, patience, determination – not to mention good wet-weather gear! To complete a crossing you just need to be reasonably fit and have decent wild camping and navigation skills, as well as a degree of organisational ability – nothing too remarkable. So, what makes it so special? For many, at least part of the answer is that The TGO Challenge is not a race. No prize, no medal, no kudos for beating a personal best. Without a winner or time to aim for the challenges become both nebulous and personal. For some, the…

Having completed my first solo Challenge (my 4th Challenge overall) in 2022 this year would see if that was a ‘one-off’. Apparently it wasn’t. Having seen an article on the pub in Knoydart in The Great Outdoors magazine I fancied a Mallaig start. The first few days passed uneventfully in good weather (maybe a little too warm, dare I say) and distance targets were met. Slightly more hot tarmac than expected and possibly the wrong choice of socks led to some unexpected blisters, which I managed to treat. There was a slight change in the weather going up Glen Roy but nothing to spoil the day, and a comfortable night was spent in Luib Chonal bothy before waking up to light snow on the opposite hill tops. An added bonus…

Elsewhere on the TGOC… I found myself heading off alone in the direction of Dalwhinnie. It felt very strange to be walking alone and my legs got carried away and took off at my usual walking pace. Not normally a problem, but two blisters had developed the previous day. I’d dressed them as a precaution. As I walked by Ben Alder Lodge, my usual shoulder pain started so I stopped to take some painkillers to make the last few kilometres more comfortable. I set off again at a good pace, trying to ignore the loch to my right as it could give the impression of slow progress. Soon, The Shieling came into view and slowly, slowly I made my way towards it…the blister on my left foot suddenly exploded about…

HJ Hall releases collection of underwear and thermals for winter Sock specialists HJ Hall has introduced thermal underwear in time for winter. The collection features various styles of men’s underwear including vests, long johns and thermal tops in either long or short sleeves. Crafted with breathable cotton, soft inner seams and a gentle hold waistband, the underwear is designed for comfort all day. Warmth and insulation comes from the TrueTHERM technology that’s used within the cotton construction itself, alongside polyester incorporating post-consumer recycled bottles. The range is not currently available for women. ◼ Cost: from £20 hj.co.uk Haglöfs celebrates 30th anniversary of iconic Tight Backpack with new model The Tight Backpack has existed in many iterations since Haglöfs launched it in 1993. But its iconic teardrop shape has remained for…

£200  318g (UK8) good pocket placement, double zip, fit none Fill: 60gsm PrimaLoft Gold Active+ in main body; 40gsm underarms and centre back Shell: lightweight ripstop with PFC-free DWR treatment Hood: elasticated with stiff wire peak and adjustable drawcord Cuffs: elasticated stretch material Hem: dual drawcord Pockets: 2 handwarmer, 1 internal chest, all zipped Sizes: UK 8-18 Men’s version: yes berghaus.com The MTN Seeker is a jacket that I’ve struggled not to pack because it works so well, whether it’s just as a quick layer thrown on whilst I have a bite to eat, or to put on at the base of a winter route for the rest of the day. It’s warm enough when being stationary for a while, but still manageable when moving without immediately overheating, thanks to…

8.9km/5.5 miles/3-4 hours  Ascent 505m/1657ft THE CAIRNGORMS form a vast landscape of rolling plateaus, remote corries, rugged crags and deep glens. It’s also a subtle place, and many find that only after repeated visits do they start to get a real feel for it. Whilst many of these mountains are big days out and require a good degree of fitness and experience, Meall a’ Bhuachaille, a Corbett that rises north of Glenmore, is an exception. Although there is some steep walking on the way up, this is a relatively short hike by Cairngorms standards – and far more accessible than, say, Braeriach. With parking and accommodation options at Glenmore, this hill is feasible in half day – and the walk is truly varied, with beautiful forest views, a stunning lochan and even…

14.3km/8.9 miles/4 hours Ascent 271m/890ft THE CONSERVATION VILLAGE of Blanchland sits in a woody hollow just west of Derwent Reservoir. It owes its existence partly to the white-robed Premonstratensian monks who built their abbey here in 1169 and partly to the Bishop of Durham who bought the village in 1708. When he died, it became part of a charitable trust established by his will and, to this day, remains the centrepiece of the estate conserved by that charity. This is an area loved by walkers for its variety. For those days when the cloud sits low on the hills, there are miles of riverside and woodland paths; on better days, head for the wide, open spaces of Bulbeck Common’s heather moorland. This walk combines the best of both worlds, first…

18.7km/11.7 miles/5 hours Ascent 445m/1460ft HILLS DELIVER the thrills most of the time, but in autumn the lowlands carry the flame. Leaves are the magical food factories for plants, capturing sunlight to make sugar; but after the summer, when they have reached their ragged end, their green colour breaks down yielding regal reds, oranges and yellows. It’s a popular time of year as the effect upon the landscape is truly inspirational. Wensleydale in North Yorkshire excels in this season. The River Ure meanders, hidden between the boughs of flourishing trees. Pause at Redmire Force, where the river thunders over a series of open rocky shelves. But this vale offers so much more. Glacial deposits abound, with compelling oval hillocks flattering much of the valley floor. This rolling landform has thrown…

10.8km/6.7 miles/4 hours Ascent 331m/1087ft WHITCHURCH COMMON bristles with granite exuberance, and it is our past response to this hard igneous stone that forms a persistent refrain during the walk. Scrutiny of the granite fragments spread around the Whitchurch tors reveals frequent examples of ad hoc quarrying. Numerous surface ‘moorstones’ still bear the scars of having been split, ready to be carted away. No close inspection is needed to spot quarrying evidence on the other side of the valley, where quite astonishing efforts were made in the 19th Century to remove vast tonnages of stone. A fair stretch of this walk takes place along the bed of an abandoned railway, built in large part to take this stone to build sizable chunks of Plymouth. Of course, Victorian quarrymen were not the…