Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2023 i The Great Outdoors

IT WAS A PERFECTLY GOOD DAY in the hills. Miles went by, summits were climbed, endorphins flowed. As the hours ticked past, the worries of work and everyday life gradually receded until they shrank, for the first time in what seems like ages, to a manageable size. Nothing overtly spectacular happened – it was a drab, cloudy day in November, after all – but it gave you that sense of deep-seated wellbeing that, for some reason, always follows a day of physical effort on big lumps of rock. Back home, recuperating on the sofa with a hot brown beverage of your choice to hand, you find yourself idly scrolling through social media. Troublingly, you realise that other people appear to have ‘outdone’ you: had better weather, experienced more spectacular conditions,…

TOTAL MUNROS 282 FIRST MUNRO BEN WYVIS 1046 m 282ND MUNRO CARN NAN GOBHAR 993 m MUNROS SCOTTISH PEAKS OF MORE THAN (914m) 3000ft AGE AT START 4 > AGE AT 10 TIME TO SUMMIT SIX YEARS DATE OF COMPLEATION 13 OCTOBER 2022 FAVOURITE MUNRO SGURR ALASDAIR 992m EASIEST MUNRO GEAL - CHARN 917m HARDEST MUNRO THE INACCESSIBLE PINNACLE SGURR DEARG 986m Number of bivvies: 1 on the Loch Mullardoch circuit of 12 Munros ARCHIVE “Too often we stride along too busy to observe the detail of the natural world about us. I’m as big a sinner as anyone and, given life over again, I’d aim to do less to see more.” Hamish Brown The Great Outdoors, September 2006 THE View FROM HERE High Stile…

AMONGST THE AVALANCHE debris, the rockslides and the fresh growth of spring, the mountains in the Glarus Valley don’t take long to reclaim the hiking trails. I’d had been cutting weeds and clearing rock since the first rays of sun tipped over the surrounding peaks that morning. By lunchtime, I and my companion were working without any shade. I lowered my pick axe as an approaching backpacker passed us. He said he’d come from Belgium to hike the entire Via Alpina long distance trail. I recognised his tired but contented smile. A smile like that could only have been earned after many days spent hiking in the mountains. I’d often enjoyed the same feeling, but for once I wasn’t spending my summer walking a long-distance trail. I was helping to…

A RICKETY, makeshift box is suspended on a wire and pulled on a rope barely thicker than a piece of string, and that is all that separates us from certain death. The grim reaper flows beneath in the form of an icy torrent of grey meltwater that rushes onwards, swift and violent, to pummel the shattered remains of a metal-framed road bridge. It’s not hard to imagine what that elemental force would do to our precarious perch – the bridge’s hastily improvised replacement – and its contents. But perversely, at the end of this trek through the mind-bending Karakoram mountains, this nominally horrific, hand-pulled crossing of the Braldu river is the most relaxed I’ve felt in weeks. It’s actually a relief. COLD COMFORT Some journeys take you out of your…

SOMETIMES, FINDING the perfect pair of winter gloves can feel a bit like searching for the Holy Grail. There’sa hackneyed saying that ‘there’s no such thing as a waterproof glove, due to the big hole where you put your hand in’. In a sense it’s true – in the worst weather, all gloves will wet out eventually. But don’t despair, as good quality, well-fitting gloves can keep hands toasty in terrible weather for several hours. If you are going to be out in all weathers, consider paying that bit extra for a waterproof membrane, which protects from driving rain or wet snow. Make sure they have pre-curved fingers with seams out of the way of the fingertips for good dexterity. Warm, compressible insulation is also important – and there are…

MOUNTAIN WALKING can put a lot of stress on your feet, especially if walking long distances, and we’re all used to putting careful thought into our boots and shoes – stability, fit, comfort and breathability must all be considered. But do you put as much thought into your socks? Badly fitting socks can cause blisters or other problems just as easily as badly fitting boots – as can choosing the wrong socks for the time of year. And if you’re in the hills a lot, poor durability can end up costing you. There is a bewildering range of socks available for hiking, but choosing a good sock is simpler than you might think. First, how warm do your feet get? If your feet run warm, you probably need thinner socks…

TENTS ARE VULNERABLE to wear and tear, from funky odours to broken zips, mould, mildew and even rips. Outdoor grime compromises DWR (durable water-repellent) coatings, whilst sand, smoke, dirt and even UV rays can contribute to degraded materials. As you certainly don’t want to be caught out in wet and windy conditions with unstable or malfunctioning accommodation, here we break down the process of how to clean a tent so you can sleep easily in the outdoors. CHOOSE YOUR DAY You might think cleaning a tent is as simple as bunging it in the washing machine along with your sweaty socks. Unfortunately, the process must be rather more hands-on than this, to avoid damaging the materials. Wait for a clear, warm day, then first head outside to get rid of…

Craig Weldon gets high with not too much effort IT IS EASY TO underestimate Cairn Gorm. It may be the sixth highest Munro, and it has given its name to the great sub-Arctic massif of the Cairngorms. But its northern slopes are covered in the paraphernalia of the ski industry. It doesn’t seem so wild when a vehicle track winds up the hillside to the Ptarmigan Restaurant, from where the summit is only a further 150m climb on a good path. Yet this track is key to a safe descent if you are short of daylight: a fairly likely scenario in winter. And oh my, once you are up! Views sweep north over dramatic cliffs to the forests of Strathspey. Yet it is south and west the eye is drawn,…

Ian Battersby tackles a route in search of unburied family jewels THE RIVER TEES cuts a sweeping path down a dale that has been shaped by glacial carving and meltwater scouring. The erosive conclusion has uncovered riches laid down many millions of years before the glacier was even a twinkle in the Pole’s eye. It was then that the planet’s crust yielded to pressure, leaking golden molten rock into subsequent underground voids. There it cooled into the solid Whin Sill fault line, until the glacier stripped away feeble capping layers only being halted by this durable dolerite, which now shapes the most prized diamonds of the vale. The river would be another steady stream of rippling precious stones but for this resolute band of confrontation. Instead it is interrupted by…

IS IT A BIRD? Is it a plane? No – it’s the Lake District’s first ‘super nature reserve’. Super nature reserves are a relatively new concept. The first was created in 2020 by combining three existing National Nature Reserves (NNRs) in Dorset. The idea is to create a more easily navigable landscape for wildlife by linking together important natural habitats. Fragmented habitats are one of the key causes of widespread species decline. Now the Ennerdale valley in the Lake District, already host to a long-running rewilding programme, has been formally given NNR status. Around 3000 hectares of forest, river and fell now benefit from new protections, making Ennerdale the largest NNR in Cumbria and the ninth largest in England. “It’s fitting that Wild Ennerdale becomes the largest NNR in the…

DEAR READER, don’t you want to ‘live the dream’? Wouldn’t it be nice to spend your days roaming the hills and heading home to wherever you lay your waterproof hat? Unless you have a sizeable trust fund, that mountain ambition doesn’t always feel within reach. The trials and tribulations of real life and grown-up responsibilities mean most of us simply don’t have the flexibility to answer every call of the wild. Juggling jobs and families with a sense of adventure can feel exhausting. So, how can you hike more, worry less? One approach is to make the outdoors a part of your work. Drastic and sudden lifestyle changes aren't always needed - by taking simple steps in the right direction, like setting up a social media profile, or starting a…

THE FIRST FEW HOURS after a heavy fall of snow are always the most special. Silence envelops a changed landscape, and our inner child awakens. A blank canvas awaits. There is a sense of urgency to take it all in whilst it is still untouched, and an inevitable tinge of sadness when it starts to melt. It takes no time at all for the snow to lose its fresh vitality: tracks appear; the drip, drip, drip of the thaw takes hold; and there’s a sense of returning to the mundane. The magic of snow is its ability to transform, to bring newness, to stir our curiosity. FEELING PRESENT The Coulin Forest is the region of hills between Glen Carron and Glen Torridon. A 'hidden gem' of a place, its peaks…

Alex Roddie has a day on ‘Torridon’s greatest mountain’ FOR HILLWALKERS in the Highlands who like their mountains rugged, the cluster of peaks north of Glen Torridon holds a special allure. Beinn Alligin and Liathach are shapely and distinctive. They’re also challenging, with sections of exposed scrambling. All of these factors add up to make Torridon one of the best bases in Scotland for hillwalking. But what if I told you that Torridon’s greatest mountain is neither of the above – and that it’s easier to climb than either, whilst still retaining a good level of challenge? Beinn Eighe is that mountain. It’s huge, but intricate. It has two Munro summits and a clutch more tops. There are enigmatic corries, craggy escarpments, a high-level loch and the legendary Triple Buttress…

James Forrest shares a classic Grade 1 scramble IT IS A QUIRK of Lakeland that Pavey Ark – a fearsome cliff rising vertically out of Stickle Tarn into the Langdale Pikes skyline – can be climbed by the average hillwalker. How can this be possible? The answer is Jack’s Rake, a nerve-jangling (yet achievable) scramble up a rocky groove dissecting the precipitous crag. Guidebook writer Alfred Wainwright described it as “just about the limit that the ordinary fell walker may be expected to attempt” with some “difficult and awkward” sections – but he also waxed lyrical about the rewards for those brave enough to venture up the rake. “The humble walker is…afforded a rare opportunity to enter the realm of the climber, and the rock scenery is magnificent throughout.” Jack’s…

Vivienne Crow enjoys a day on the fells above Eskdale HARTER FELL may be only 653m high, but given the way its crag-topped, pyramidal outline towers over the western Lake District valley of Eskdale, you’d be forgiven for thinking it reached a far greater altitude. This walk approaches it from the western base of Hardknott Pass, using a combination of valley paths and intermittent moorland trails to first climb neighbouring Green Crag. (For those who are bagging them, this, like Harter Fell, is also a Wainwright.) The wild blue yonder of Morecambe Bay and the Irish Sea forms a dreamy backdrop to the first part of the walk but is then replaced by a more sobering scene as the muscular mountains around the head of Upper Eskdale command the walker’s…

Steve Eddy takes in sweeping views and mixed terrain THIS VARIED WALK combines tree-lined paths between moorland and rough grazing, frequent lake views, a steep climb up Mynydd Troed (‘Foot Mountain’, 609m), and relatively level walking on top of Mynydd Llangorse. Much of the time you’ll enjoy sweeping views of beautiful Llangorse Lake, often glimpsed through hazel and ash bordering field edges, and the distinctive peak of Pen y Fan on the western horizon. You’ll certainly see gorse, as the name Llangorse suggests, as well as plenty of bracken on the lower slopes and heather on top, and very likely a few red kites. The broad, grassy paths on top of Mynydd Llangorse are also favoured by horse riders. In addition there’s a tiny shepherd’s cottage to look out for,…

Climbing up the steep eastern side of the Five Sisters of Kintail to spend a day on the ridge, I briefly turned around to catch my breath and couldn’t quite believe my eyes. The most majestic scenery lay before me, a scene that could have quite easily made me believe I was in the Himalayas, with the snow-capped peaks of the Forcan Ridge (right), Faochag (centre) and Sgurr na Sgine (left) dominating the skyline. The low-lying mist in the glen was the icing on the cake. simonatkinsonphotography.com…

4 FEBRUARY Rombalds Stride YORKSHIRE DALES Organised by the 15th Airedale Scout Group, the Rombalds Stride Winter Challenge is a 23-mile walking or running route taking in some of Yorkshire’s finest scenery. You’ll ascend the Airedale Valley, over Rombalds Moor to Ilkley and across Otley Chevin. Cost: £25 rombaldsstride.co.uk 10-26 FEBRUARY Dark Skies Festival YORKSHIRE DALES & NORTH YORK MOORS The Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors National Parks, which remain some of the darkest places in England, are once again running a joint Dark Skies Festival in February. 2020 saw the theme of ‘exploration’ run through the impressive programme of events, with 2023 set to bring activities like kayaking, stargazing safaris and zip wires. Cost: varies darkskiesnationalparks.org.uk 15 FEBRUARY Conservation Day EYCOTT HILL NATURE RESERVE Eycott Hill is a…

SNOWDONIA NATIONAL PARK AUTHORITY (SNPA) has announced plans to call Wales’ highest mountain by its Welsh name, after a petition calling for the change was signed by over 5000 people. The SNPA plans to use Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) and Eryri (Snowdonia) in all its communications, temporarily including the bracketed English names in some contexts to “enable all to familiarise themselves with the new policy”. Naomi Jones, Head of Cultural Heritage at the SNPA, said that the move towards using the Welsh names in English context began several years ago. “Many public bodies across Wales have moved to use both the Welsh and English names, or the Welsh name only, when referring to Yr Wyddfa and Eryri, as have many of the mainstream English-language press and filming companies,” she added. “This…

MANY A HIKE starts in the porch of the Wasdale Head Inn, where Three Peaks Challengers mingle with those heading to the Gables or further, scoffing baps and coffee. Alex and I joined this ritual early on a crisp early spring morning, seated outside whilst coal tits, song thrushes and blackbirds made a fine chorus. Behind the inn, Great Gable’s high grey face towered beyond Kirk Fell, tinted brass-bright by low early sunshine – a classic Lakeland morning. “Yewbarrow first, then?” I asked. “Alex…?” My hiking buddy had disappeared indoors. I found him gazing up at the inn’s collection of mountaineering ephemera. “Look at those ice axes,” he said. “Classics! And those nails are Tricounis…” Behind a row of ancient, nailed boots – some reduced by age to lumps of…

James Forrest climbs England’s highest peak outside the Lakes THE LEVIATHAN of the North Pennines, Cross Fell (893m/2930ft) is England’s highest mountain outside of the Lake District. It’s a mountain of soft, smooth lines, devoid of the rocky drama of its Lakeland neighbours, but it still has charm, especially if you spend the night at Greg’s Hut, a former miners’ house turned rustic mountain bothy. Named after John ‘Greg’ Gregory, who died in a climbing accident in the Alps, Greg’s Hut is the highest bothy in England. Cross Fell is also home to the UK’s only named wind – the fierce Helm Wind, a strong north-easterly that batters the mountain’s south-western slopes for much of the year. The route traverses the scree belt at Crossfell Well, a small spring, to…

Francesca Donovan seeks out iconic scenes ON A BLUSTERY and wet day in the Central Fells, when your heart is set on scrambles, a cautious but pleasing diversion might send you to Lingmoor Fell (1530ft/466m) for a low-level, low-stakes adventure. This compact circular route makes up in iconic Lakeland scenery what it lacks in elevation. Thanks to Lingmoor’s isolation, your moderate effort will be rewarded with views of the Langdale Pikes. At times, they loom large; when out of sight, rolling fields are punctuated by pretty tarns and views as far as Windermere. The green slate quarrying history here adds a little magic, too. You can stride along ‘the Great Wall of Lingmoor’ – as the ridge wall is affectionately named – and marvel at Cathedral Caves, the majestic main…

Nick Livesey is our guide to a bus-enabled linear walk IN RECENT YEARS the Ogwen Valley has become almost as well known for its parking issues as it is for its incredible mountains. This is a shame, as it can put people off – especially those who seek solitude or want to avoid adding to the stresses on local infrastructure. A simple solution is to utilise public transport, and with a little imagination a full-blooded Ogwen adventure away from the crowds can be yours! This route, which links the Ogwen Valley and Llanberis Pass, is sublime and visits three deserted cwms before topping out on an imposing but seldom-trodden peak. The return journey is similarly bereft of visitors and as you ride the bus back to Capel Curig you can…

Roger Butler takes an old railway line to high tors THE WILD HEART of Dartmoor is infamously boggy, but you don’t always need to hike into the squidgy interior to enjoy this granite-hewn landscape, where bronze-coloured heath sweeps in every direction and hill tops always seem to be capped with a sculptural weatherbeaten tor. The line of the former Princetown Railway, high to the east of Tavistock, provides straight-forward access to a number of granite outcrops but also serves up some fascinating history: a scattering of ancient hut settlements, wriggling leats that once took fresh water down to Plymouth, and quarries where stonemasons grafted to create Nelson’s Column. There are fine views too: the eerie shapes and shadows around distant Great Mis Tor and the deep wooded valleys down by…