Innholdsfortegnelse for issue 19 i Lampoon Magazine International

As her fashion show came to a close this September, Miuccia Prada spoke with journalists: she said she had wondered whether launching a new collection was the right thing to do at a time when people already own too much and should be learning to make do with less — for the good of the planet. “We want to talk more about style than fashion, about a way of wearing things,” she said, according to Alexander Fury in Another Magazine. A debate as to the difference between fashion and style could fill books — for me, it’s quite enough to be writing the introduction to an issue exploring Manufacturing and Lampoon’s new editorial line focusing on the concept of Crafted. In Italian, that would be artigianale but it just doesn’t…

To celebrate the twenty-five-year-long career of the English photographer Tim Walker, the Victoria & Albert Museum presents Tim Walker: Wonderful Things, with set design by Shona Heath, running until March 8, 2020. The exhibition displays known photos alongside 150 previously unseen works. Taking ten objects kept in the V&A – miniature Indians, erotic illustrations, a bejeweled tobacco box – the photographer offers a personal interpretation of them through his shots. Clockwise from top: Duckie Thot, Aubrey’s shadow, 2017; Aubrey Beardsley, The Peacock Skirt, 1894; Tim Walker, Karen Elson, Sgaire Wood & James Crewe, 2018; Radh; Tilda Swinton, 2018…

maybe it all started with checks the myths and meanings of Tartan chronicles of a revolution — tradition and pride in lands to the north Tartan is not a Scottish invention: fragments of fabric have been found in the Hallstatt mines in Austria dated to the 8th century BC, while other fragments were buried four thousand years ago with the mummified remains in the Ürümqi tombs in China. Nevertheless, Celtic clans adopted this fabric and made it their own — so successfully that it was banned by the English Parliament in 1746 after the Battle of Culloden with the specific intention of breaking the spirit of allegiance binding the rebels. Sixty years later, the Highland Society began to officially record the various tartans; King George IV suggested the Scots wore…

from Palladio to present – not pigments but references for ROCCO IANNONE how colors are composed – corners between brick and seaweed humidity and metal of the Venetian terrain In the lagoon, there’s money to be made in the sea, and at the Arsenal, ships were constructed in a matter of hours, not days. “The 16th century Venetian Arsenal was an enormous production facility as well as the location in which to discuss management, or how to make a complex organization as functional as possible,” wrote Giorgio Brunetti. But when it came to business by land, many chose to test their luck further inland, at “Santa Agricoltura”, as it was referred to by Alvise Cornaro, an academic and patron of the arts, as well as a scholar of agriculture, plumbing,…

where does Rome hide its energy? / out on the town with MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI the eternal city is a stronghold of power: between antiquity and the Baroque emerge dragonflies and new botanicals Roman Scene. The balcony of Maria Grazia Chiuri, tucked among Rome’s rooftops and domes, looks out on a garden of cloistered nuns, dotted with orange trees and vines out back. Maria Grazia and her aesthetic sensibilities, from a rooted sense of belonging and intermittent passions. A modern-day Grand Tour begins from her house, recalling the memories of Mimì Pecci-Blunt and the Surrealists, who arrived in Rome in the mid-nineteenth century, only to discover the ways of Mannerism and lose themselves in the stone monsters of Bomarzo. Doyenne of an experimental cultural universe, Countess Pecci-Blunt dominated the Roman…

definition of decoration visiting STUDIO PEREGALLI with Laura Sartori Rimini and Roberto Peregalli “an artisan makes a mistake with their first samples, tending to replicate something they’ve done already. We don’t copy the past. We reinterpret it every time” “These are artisans that we instruct and develop in our own style. We have them make dozens and dozens of samples before arriving at their final result. It’s not unusual for an artisan to make a mistake with their first samples, because they tend to limit themselves, to replicate something they’ve done already. You have to start over each time. We don’t copy the past. We reinterpret it every time.” Laura continues, “We create a past, but we would like our houses to live beyond generations. Our work is costly, we…

semi-precious stones – Magnitude, attitude from the underground Optical illusions inspired by kinetic art: the theme dominated more than just Iris Van Herpen’s haute couture runway this past July, where pieces were inspired by nature’s repetitive structures and patterns. Cartier’s Théia necklace features seven round Colombian emeralds — six at the front and one hanging from the clasp at the back — set in transparent crystal rock, mimicking the effect of rippling water. Triangles of black onyx heighten the illusion and contrast the brilliance of the surrounding diamonds. There’s a complexity in detail which suggests these the aren’t heirloom pieces you’d receive from a grandmother, or even see on the neck of A-list Celebrities at the Cannes Film Festival. Like Iris Van Herpen’s couture pieces, the complexity of Cartier’s jewelry…

‘Watch pocket created in 1873. Abused ever since’ condoms rather than watches — it’s called advertising pants from a penniless tailor become the world’s most worn garment we write about fashion, but for two centuries we’ve been wearing the same thing Four buttons and five pockets — two on the back and three in the front — the smallest and last of which was sewn into the front left. Originally devised to hold a pocket watch, loose change or a gold nugget or two, the presumed uselessness of this detail was turned into a focal point of the brand’s advertising campaign in the nineties: “Watch pocket created in 1873. Abused ever since”. Inside the little pocket, a condom rather than a watch. The brand chose the most suitable producers, soundtracks…

Ongoing until May 30, 2021 at Palazzo Grimani, Venice, Domus Grimani 1594-2019, curated by Daniele Ferrara, Director at the Veneto Museums, and Toto Bergamo Rossi, Director at Venetian Heritage, celebrates the return of a collection of classical statues belonging to the patriarch of Aquileia, Giovanni Grimani, after four centuries. Kept in the family palazzo in Santa Maria Formosa until the late 1500s, the collection was donated to the sovereign state of Venice by Grimani. The show is accompanied with a publication published by Marsilio which explores the history of the collection…

Between November 15 and December 31, 2019, Milan’s Palazzo Giureconsulti is to host In Goude We Trust!, presented by Chanel with the patronage of the Milan Metropolitan Council. Jean-Paul Goude is an exponent of the Zeitgeist with his drawings, posters, photos, films and videos. In 2014, Paper published his nude portrait of Kim Kardashian, contributing to the socialite’s fame. Influenced by dance, he used to watch his mother perform, looking in on her classes when she became a teacher. He attended the École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs before working at Esquire. His work was eventually exhibited at the Museum of Modern Art, New York. Goude himself conceived of and curated In Goude We Trust! focusing on the main projects resulting from his professional partnership with Chanel, as well as…

On view until December 14, 2019, Sterling Ruby Acts + Table takes to Gagosian Britannia Street, London. The artist’s first solo show at London’s Gagosian brings together an array of sculptures from the series ACTS (2008-18) and Tables (2015-19). The show also includes an illustrated catalogue with essays by critic and curator Jenelle Porter. Clockwise from top left: Sterling Ruby, Sterling Ruby, Acts/Osiris-Rex (detail), 2016; Acts/Robitussin,Acts/Proxima, 2018; Table – double last supper, 2019…

the Eighteenth century in Naples artisans at the King’s court – objets d’art in gold and nacre it's the the age of enlightenment and pleasure The Marquis de Sade wrote in his Voyage d’Italie in 1775-76 that the Naples of Ferdinand IV and Maria Carolina of Austria, where he stayed from January to June 1776, was a ‘superbe ville’, whose natural wonders exceeded even that of Roman monuments. Donatien-Alphonse, disguised under the name of Count de Mazan, admired Via Toledo, despite the filth and the stench produced by the shops — particularly the butchers’. He recognized a vibrancy there that reminded him of Paris and which stood out in the lights produced by the flambeaux. The mild climate, he believed, fed the local backwardness and bad manners. According to the…

in conversation with Elia Bonacina unique pieces for the Rothschild family and inspiration for Mongiardino ”not bamboo, or even wicker. It was palm, a wood that grew up to twenty meters in length, that could be curved and shaped” I am convinced that the history of design should be rewritten backwards. Nothing against the creativity of the individual designer, but perhaps telling the “story of shapes” through its producers might lead to interesting outcomes and interpretations — debunking the idea of the design genius working in complete isolation with the world of production waits at their service. If you look closely at the world of objects, designers come and go, while producers remain. Take Bonacina1889, for example. The very name of the company tells us that this business has been…

techniques for creating Italian fabrics 15,000 square meters of gold and fireproof yarn Rubelli fabric for The Bolshoi Theatre, Moscow Moscow, near the Kremlin: it was the year of 1805 when a fire destroyed the Petrovsky theatre. Rebuilt and reopened after almost twenty years, it took the name, Bolshoi, known today as the famous Russian ballet theatre. Giuseppe Bove, an architect with Italian roots, was entrusted with the design. His father, Vincenzo Giovanni Bove, had been a portraitist at the court of Catherine II. After another fire broke out in 1853, more reconstruction would follow. In the wake of the October Revolution, Stalin intervened to eliminate all elements that evoked wealth from the building — ears of corn, the hammer and scythe and five-pointed stars replaced chandeliers, stucco work, and…

It’s always the stone that suggests the piece “you have a picture in your mind and in your eyes, but it might take four or five years to complete” father and son and the search for stones for Florentine inlays Two and a half centuries after it sunk into oblivion, Bruno and Iacopo Lastrucci rediscovered the site where yellow chalcedony was once extracted — a typical material found in Medicean panels realized with the Commesso Fiorentino technique. The two artisans — a father-son duo — followed ancient maps that led them to the metalliferous hills inland from Cecina, on private property in the natural park. Rucksacks on their backs, they sought the exact spot for years. “At times we would find a stone that was more yellow, other times more…

Coco Chanel never went to Russia – she had a mirror built in the rue Cambon with the two-headed raptor carved on the bronze frame Saint Petersburg was born as a window on Europe, opposite the Swedish enemy. Built in hostile territory, it was swampy and subject to flooding by the Neva. A forced settlement — like the modernizations of the Tsar. It was meant to be the Venice of the North — wrote the Slavist Ettore Lo Gatto — built, however, with the blood and tears of manual workers. It bears the name of the same Tsar who made it the capital — Peter the Great (1672 - 1725) — and who forced westernization upon the country, banning beards and orthodox Russian dress: the scission between East and West,…

1999 / 2019 – anniversaries and flashbacks the work of Victoire de Castellane for the Haute Joaillerie of France: references amassed as mineral layers Nature. Victoire de Castellane dedicated her first line of jewelry to lilies of the valley, which was one of the flowers that Dior grew as a boy with his mother in their garden at Villa Les Rhumbs: he slipped twigs into the lapels of his jacket as a lucky charm. Castellane made pearl radishes and ruby raspberries for her 1999 collection. The cannage design hinted at the golden Napoleon III style chairs designated for clients and journalists at his first show — they were chosen by Dior with his interior designer Victor Grandpierre. Two warps and two wefts interlocking with crisscross diagonal threads — the same…

In 1820, Floris received the first Royal Warrant – the right to be named as an official supplier to the British Royal family, and use the Royal coat of arms on their products. The first warrant was as a producer of combs for King George IV. It would be the first of sixteen Royal warrants the brand would receive over the course of many years, warrants which can still be seen in the Floris boutique on Jermyn Street in London. Today, the firm holds two Royal warrants: as producer of toiletries for His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales; and as perfumer to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II – the only fragrance house in the world to boast this title. The many tributes the firm has paid to the crown…

On view until January 24, 2020, the Louis Vuitton Foundation, Paris hosts Charlotte Perriand: inventing a new world — a portrait of the Parisian designer twenty years after her death. Through her works of design and architecture, Perriand fused everyday life with nature. The retrospective features her work alongside that of her colleagues and friends — Le Corbusier, Pierre Jeanneret, George Braque, Henri Laurens and Alexander Calder. Clockwise from top: Charlotte Perriand, Grès de la carriere de Bourron, 1935; Henri Laurens, Le petite musicienne, 1937; Alexander Calder Les Boucliers 1944; George Braque, Les oiseaux 1954-1962…

a history of Italian porcelain Ginori’s manufacturing facility. Between poetry and powder The archival designs of plates by Manifattura Ginori feature plenty of adorned patterns: they come in gold and cobalt-blue; roses and crest-inspired design; medieval or Ottoman-inspired friezes. Amid their virtuoso-like flourishes, we occasionally see black, life-like insects crawl. They’re mainly beetles, dragonflies, flies, and bees. Just enough to startle a fellow diner, enlivening the atmosphere of a formal meal. Back in the day, inserting small insects in the intricate patterns of the finest china was meant to cover up the mistakes of craftsmen — a drop of ink, a crease, or an irregularity in texture. Rather than concealing the imperfection, a dainty insect would highlight the error by covering it up — like a mask turning heads in…

Le Corbusier’s Pavillon in Zurich is now re-open to the public. Completed in 1967, it is the Swiss-French architect, designer and artist’s last building and his only made entirely in glass, steel, and concrete panels. Le Corbusier made it on commission from collector Heidi Weber, following the Modulor system: a scale of proportions developed by the artist based on human measurements and the golden section. From the Museum of Visual Arts, temporary exhibitions, events and workshops illustrate the works and influence of Le Corbusier In 1899, August Horch founded A. Horch & Cie in Cologne, a company specializing in car repairs – the first of its kind. After just a few years, operations were expanded and the company began manufacturing. From time to time, Horch incorporated his innovative experiments into…

United States of Music – from India to America, to the rhythm of the tabla two musicians, a teacher and student, supported by Rolex – in conversation on the genesis of an artist “My father loved the tabla, the ancient Indian drum," says Zakir Hussain. "He wanted to pass that onto me: I could connect with my instrument whenever and however I pleased, rehearsing for ten minutes before heading out to play. My father would wait patiently for me to come back and ask him my questions, which he always answered in great detail — tall tales told as if they were bedtime stories.” Zakir Hussain claims he had two mentors. The first, Mickey Hart, drummer of the Grateful Dead, was introduced to him by his father, who held music…

old looms and forgotten processes – a conversation with GIUSEPPE COLOMBO enterprise and manufacturing are also a social service. “I'm not in the business of socks. I'm not a technician; thanks to my technical ignorance — or ingenuity — I find it easier to come up with ideas." Circular looms are used for tubular knitting; the socks then get their toes sewn up. Some machines are old, others more recent. Traditional Bentley looms, from the British car manufacturers, are no longer produced today, but at Gallo they design spare parts on request. “Bentley looms make patterned ribs, with the insertion of colored shamrocks, for example. Modern machinery cannot do this.” Old looms and forgotten processes. “Like recipes from the past: you can no longer find quinces, but tarte tatin is…

paint and organic hues: egg white, clay and turmeric DONNA HUANCA at the Marciano Art Foundation, Los Angeles: Media for a state of meditation and intervention At the center of Donna Huanca’s work is the intention to create a surreal moment, like a hallucination. Donna Huanca used to attend Urkupiña: a religious festival originating in ancient Pagan rituals and in shamanism. Widespread throughout South America, it is a simulation of religious practices imported from Europe. Chichicastenango in Guatemala, San Juan Chamula in Mexico, Cuzco in Peru and Quillacollo, 2,750 meters high up in the Andes, are just some of the stages where Urkupiña unfolds. Primordial chaos, for Donna Huanca, a neurotic mix, a “fantastic non-sense”. Today, that primordial non-sense has returned, and Huanca presents it to the public with the…

in conversation with CARLO TRAGLIO "a collection, to be truly beautiful, must have a mistake” “Stop thinking,” stop thinking, stop deciding what to think. Carlo Traglio was posing for Julian Schnabel, who asked him to stop thinking: “’Stop thinking,’ Schnabel kept saying to me. Art, the bubble, speculation, diva-style behaviour by artists and so many shortcuts—to get here you must be curious, you must have seen, you must know, cultivate rapid, motivated intellectuality, akin to culture, but more sincere. I thought that a collection, to be truly beautiful, must have a mistake.” A mistake is a symptom of the heart. So many mistakes, so much effort, so many checks and double checks in the production of a jewel. “I asked myself so many questions before I created even one, just…

We live in a world where styling is often mistaken for fashion, and the work of Nicolas Ghesquière requires a second look: designer by profession, his venue choice allows us insight to a wide gamut of cultural references. The TWA Flight Center has reopened as a hotel, where a terminal has been repurposed for overnight stays, not overseas flights. A chapter in history for twentieth-century architecture, the structure was designed by Eero Saarinen in collaboration with Charles J. Parise and was inaugurated in 1962. It’s also the venue chosen to showcase Louis Vuitton’s cruise collection in a globalized world: it might be snowing in Paris, but they’re swimming in Rio. Holidays straight from a brochure for exotic winters spent by the world’s well-to-do in the Caribbean or the Indies. Saarinen…

It was the time of the crusades and of the Investiture Controversy. Years of misogyny were endorsed by heads of the church: women were considered inferior, prone to sin. It was men’s responsibility to dominate them. What was feared most in women was the power they had to ignite desire — a threat to masculine virtue. Eleanor of Aquitaine was one of the most powerful women of her time. After her death in 1204, at the age of 82, she was depicted over her tomb with a book in hand. Praised by musicians and poets as “Alienor with the golden hair”, she was named queen twice, mothered ten children, and became a controversial figure in an era of female silence. Born in Bordeaux in 1122, she was raised in the…

loved by artists, from Giotto to Guido Reni chronicles of Blue – from the Persian Empire to Fifth Avenue The girl appears to turn suddenly, our gaze drawn to the glimmer of her pearl earring, but it’s the blue turban in Vermeer’s painting that conveys the idea of luxury. Long ago the use of blue in a painting was more than just an aesthetic choice, it was symbolic. For the ancient Egyptians it represented introspection, for the Greeks it was the color of suffering (perhaps this is where the meaning of ‘blue’ as ‘melancholy’ comes from), for the Christian religion it was the color of the Madonna, representing her heavenliness. For medieval and renaissance painters, from Giotto to Guido Reni and beyond, the use of blue was an expression of…

In the early 1900s in Milan, work was underway for the 1906 World’s Fair, set to the theme of transportation: wagons, bicycles, motorcars, railways, electrical transport, air balloons, and ships, along with luggage, postal service, and telegraphs — the transport of communication. The Civic Aquarium was inaugurated — the only fair pavilion still standing today, maintaining its turtles, original mosaics, and the statue of Neptune. Importing fish from all over the globe was no easy feat and in 1906, people arrived much in the way fish did. In 1906, the pavilions were designed and built in Liberty style, with a mix of Gothic, Baroque, and Rococo elements. There were some forty nations represented, and five million visitors. In the fairgrounds, which today house the CityLife development and Parco Sempione, an…

You won’t find the coffee beans they often place in niche perfume shops here. This is a laboratory, not a shop. The convention that says you should smell something strong — coffee in this case — to clear your nasal passages, is mistaken. It’s better to smell something neutral, a mouillette (strip of paper used as a fragrance blotter), or even your shirt sleeve. In perfumery, raw materials are classified based on the olfactory, not botany. Extraction methods yield different results. Vetiver grows in Haiti, what’s used in perfumery is its pale roots. It is a shrub, not a tree, but thanks to its scent it is classified as wood. Oud is also classified as a wood scent, although it is in fact a resin produced as an immune defense…

The Chedi North Ghubra 232, Way No. 3215 Muscat, Oman Your flight leaves late at night and it’s a shame that the journey from Italy is just a bit too short, instead of the eight hours it takes from other cities around Europe. You land in the morning, trying to make it on Friday if possible, and stay until Monday evening – as the return flight also departs late in the evening. It is the definition of a last-minute escape for lovers, a chance to indulge in lust for four days in the haven of sensuality that is, Oman. The Chedi serves brunch on Friday morning for those returning from prayers at the Mosque – the equivalent of Sunday lunch in Southern Italy. The tables and counters are fit for…