Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 16 i Lampoon Magazine International

SINCERO L’aspetto di donne come Cindy Crawford o Claudia Schiffer aveva codificato le aspettative della gente comune. I denti bianchi, gli zigomi, i sederi tondi e le labbra. Lo stereotipo ricordava un cartone erotico: per le giapponesi un manga – gli occhi a mandorla come portoni romanici, sproporzionati sui tratti dei volti disegnati. Per definizione, lo stereotipo è il contrario della particolarità naturale. Nel 2018, Inditex è stato il gruppo con i profitti più alti nel settore tessile – holding di Zara e altri minori nello stesso target. A seguire LVMH e Nike, entrambi proattivi su diversi fronti in una conversazione tra abbigliamento di massa e brand di lusso. La forza dello stereotipo rimane imprescindibile, per il mercato. L’impegno giornalistico di The Fashionable Lampoon è l’osservazione dell’evoluzione dello stereotipo: banalmente,…

For my generation, the Internet is the closest thing to the essence of God. Omniscient and ubiquitous, it is a democratic and miscellaneous god, who speaks to us about politics and kittens, string theory and pornography. An infinite archive, in more matter-of-fact terms. Even fashion pondered on this a few years ago with a collection by Raf Simons featuring sweatshirts and t-shirts with the sort of epitaph ‘To the archives, no longer relevant’. Where the comma made the phrase a definitive statement: a fashion chant about the irrelevance of archives, not a banal question of memory. There is quite an obsession about the archives these times, a nostalgia for things we have never even seen, whitout knowing why. Perhaps because we are lacking the future, the very idea of a…

The customer department has very precise rates: £9 for minor repairs to pockets, £28 for replacing a zipper, and £30 for a full re-waxing – it’s recommended that this be done not more than once a year. One must fill out a form and mail it to the Simonside facility, NE34 9PD. When you think of Barbour what comes to mind is its characteristic oily texture – thornproof fabric is an insulating and water-proof material that protects from the rain, is resistant to tears, and is durable over time. ‘The best clothes for the worst weather’ – read the old slogan. Long-fiber Egyptian cotton, threaded into various thicknesses and then soaked in wax is used to produce this material. It was in 1894, at the Port of South Shields, a…

Irene Brin would amuse herself by wrong-footing her dinner guests with surrealist dishes coloured in blue with methylene. Pour épater les bourgeois, deconsecrating one of the classic social rituals and a cliché of the upper classes. Jean Des Esseintes, the hero of the Decadentist novel À rebours by Joris-Karl Huysmans, was even more daring, having a total-black funereal meal served, worthy of the crepuscular darkness of Marchesa Casati, in a room decked out for mourning and with coal dust scattered over the gravel paths in his Paris garden. On this subject, Valentino Garavani has always followed a philosophy of taste similar to his idea of couture, even dedicating an illustrated book to the subject, At the Emperor’s Table. In 2014 At Casa Crespi, in Milan, there are gold plates for…

Marrakech and roses. In the midst of the desert, a city that springs from an oasis is the land of roses almost all year round, exploding in May (for Marrakech, May is the height of the holiday season, due precisely to the blossoming). It has all the flavours of the Mediterranean, and the sea is just a few hours’ drive away. The scents of the sand and of incense blend with that of the leaves. A land of winds and vortices, of roses and quartz stones. A holiday in Morocco preserves the fragrances of Italy; like in memory, Rosa Nobile by Acqua di Parma, is found in an eight-hectare garden within the walls of La Mamounia amidst olive, orange and mandarin trees.…

On the pavements of New York, in the streets of Los Angeles, teenagers and artists are reinventing sportswear: using bright colours and technical fabrics, they create city accessories as jackets, trench coats, leather shoes – even unisex jewellery. Everyday fashion plays with the combination and juxtaposition of formal, informal and casual style. That extroverted way of dressing known as street style now includes a sporty nuance. Contemporary fashion is truly a blend of technical looks and accessories that influence the creativity of major designers with their cutting edge quality and research. that style originated in the Seventies ever since known as streetwear has a relevant sporty aesthetic Sport is a way of life. Breathing in the open air – eyes dazzled…

Rome in the past, present and future. The helicoidal design is a metaphor for transition Twenty years having gone by since the first piece was showcased in the Bvlgari boutique window, today the ring B.zero1 may be considered a metaphor for a city like Rome oriented towards the future. “Being able to describe the idea that now more so than ever remains behind the design of this ring, means comprehending the complexity of all Bvlgari creations,” says Mauro Di Roberto, Jewellery Business Unit Managing Director at Bvlgari. It is an art wishing to run risks and take chances, to free itself from conventions, and marvel at the unexpected cuts. There is a phrase that describes the power and audacity of maison Bvlgari – larger than life – in the celebration…

“Many said she was unhappy, but she didn’t seem so to me.” Rita Zanardi’s tale gives us a picture of Princess Margaret that is somewhat different to the usual clichés. The Rivalta Castle is a manor in the Trebbia river valley amidst the lush vegetation of the medieval hamlet, where the plains start to crumple and become gently rolling hills. An image by photographer and journalist Milton Gendel, a native New Yorker but resident of Rome since 1949 and married to second wife Judy Montagu, a friend and lady-in-waiting to the Princess, shows Rita in evening dress, dropping to the customary curtsey in front of the Royal Guest. Princess Margaret was the Zanardi Landi family’s guest at least ten days every year, from 1987 to 2001, the year before she…

The mold of Veruschka's body is a surreal Amazon piece of armour belonging to the Greek Barbarella as she goes off to conquer the moon Olivier Flaviano is the director of the Musée Saint Laurent Paris. He assumed the leadership of this Parisian institution in 2016 and worked for one year with Pierre Bergé, Monsieur Yves’ partner in both his professional and private life. Long before becoming a couturier and the creator of icons like the pea-jacket and of evergreens moved from the male to the female world, like the safari jacket and the trench coat, the tuxedo and the blouson, Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, born in Orano, Algeria on 1 August 1936 (under the sign of Leo, like Coco Chanel), could be defined as a creative spirit in every…

via Gavi, 26 Gavi, Alessandria At the end of the ‘strada delle ville’ (the villa road), which runs between Novi Ligure and Gavi, there is a large green house overlooking Gavi grape vines – it is the Locanda La Raia of the Rossi Cairo family. Once a grocery store, surrounded by the summer residences of the Genoan nobility, today it is a true haven, which set in an agricultural mosaic of 180 hectares, stands as the architect of the landscape. Lavender and rosemary. When seen from above, the herb garden at the entrance takes the shape of the veins of a leaf, a new way of reinterpreting the Italian garden. A second garden blends into the vineyards, created according to a concept by the French Coloco team, students of the…

41 Avenue Montaigne Parigi, Francia Since Costes Group inaugurated L’Avenue restaurant and bar, it has become a favorite place for meeting and socializing, marked by the true spirit of Paris. Located just off the Champs-Elysées in the eighth Arrondissement, the heart of the fashion district in the French capital, it is the carrefour of a narrative of ritual subtleties and meetings, the soul of a liturgy molded according to the various times of day and the changing seasons. Ladies shopping in Avenue Montaigne, the fashion artery cited in the restaurant’s name, meet up here at number forty-one. The buzz at the tables is variegated and international; it is not rare to see film and pop stars dining here like Rihanna, Kendall Jenner and Sienna Miller. A mosaic of celebrities and…

1 The saddle. Spanish, Arabian, English – or the more comfortable American. Women rode side-saddle – when Ludwig of Bavaria fell in love with his Mrs Empress cousin, depicted in an equestrian portrait. An elegance to be revived. Just one thread with two needles is required for the saddlery. Le Sellier d’Hermès 2 The leather. It is in the bag, the alibi of every woman who says “she needs” the umpteenth purchase. Hermès leather goods create desire, like the scent of natural leather. Remembering a flâneur in a souk in Marrakech, hunting for its perfume. Le Maroquinier d’Hermès 3 The jewel setter. Diamonds only after forty, one would say. Today it is a question of being able to choose, and of culture. Sapphires, rubies, emeralds and diamonds in your eyes…

A constantly updated inventory belonging to an imaginary contemporary collector – this is Stock Lampoon. A review of objects like a cavern crammed with mirabilia, updated and looking ahead to the future – including graphic art, culture and science. Stock is online, on the magazine website, and constantly updated: the best links to the gotta-have eye candy available for purchase online. Most of all, we called it Stock and not Store: as the quality is guaranteed by the editorial research of Lampoon Publishing House. collecting is about finding and choosing, it's the driving force of any form of commerce or trade when the collecting spirit is buoyant, the economy prospers and stays alive Pieces verging on the unique. Art or design galleries, shops, auction houses, directly from the factory or…

The Rolex initiative Mentor and Protégé, launched in 2002, identifies young artists and puts them into close contact with leading exponents of their discipline for a year. And that is how Colin Barrett, one of the new voices in Irish literature, can today meet with and “learn” from a recognized master of European fiction like Colm Tóibín, another Irishman, from Enniscorthy, son of a nation which, though small and sparsely populated, has produced for centuries some of the world’s most influential authors (Oscar Wilde, William Butler Yeats, John Synge, and today John Banville, Colm Tóibín and Roddy Doyle). While today Tóibín is a master for many (including myself), the writer rejects this label, preferring the title of mentor, namely a wise, trusted advisor, a sort of paternal figure. It is…

Margherita grew up on the banks of Lake Maggiore, in one of the villas in the shade. By day, the col-ours of the peacocks and flowers, snails and glass marbles. In the evening, white pinafores, governesses and silence. As soon as she was tall enough, Margherita would pull the ripe persimmons off the tree branches in November and throw them at her governess. Her grandfather would stay by her side in the evening until she fell asleep, he taught her where consonants are doubled in words, and watched Walt Disney and Blackbeard the Pirate videos with her over and over again. When Margherita was nine years old, her grandfather organized a birthday party for her, inviting all the children from all the neighboring towns and also the grandchildren of various…

It’s 1903. Guests arrive at the Winter Palace for the last grand ball of the Russian Empire, wearing 17th century costumes encrusted in sapphires, diamonds, and rubies. Maria Pavlovna is also there, ‘the grandest of the Grand Duchesses’ (as she was known in Saint Petersburg) in all of Russia and Europe, wife of the third son of Alexander II, Grand Duke Vladimir Aleksandrovich, the last Romanov to escape from Revolutionary Russia, and the first to die in exile. She became famous for her art of receiving and for her collection of jewels, which included a diamond tiara with interlaced circles and pendant pearls. Now a part of the British Royal Collection, it is one of Queen Elizabeth’s favourite pieces. Before she died, Pavlovna divided her jewels among her four children:…

In Marrakech, the unprepared are on the lookout for rugs. The taxi driver leaves us in an emporium just inside the walls, under a shop sign. A cup of mint tea with a lot of sugar, the scent of water and warm autumn, like an August you have never spent. The pale cobalt blue rug takes our fancy: the seller expects us to haggle, but when we put it down to leave, the situation becomes unpleasant. The souks are divided by goods - one for shoes and one for medicinal herbs - in the rug district, the bazaars all look alike. You quietly look at the rugs and touch them - the softness and width of the loom used are important factors. The colours must be natural, red the most…

ra an Cad. No. 28 Be ikta , Turchia As the flow of the Bosphorus keeps Europe and Asia apart, it has created a landscape that is a major landmark of Istanbul, spinning a magical story where the river, the clear blue or stormy skies, and the light play the leading roles. It is a story of adventure, of ancient trade routes and epic journeys. A fil rouge running from antiquity and Byzantium gold, unfolding through the epic of the Orient Express and the novels by Agatha Christie, including the mark of the opulence of centuries of Ottoman rule like Iznik ceramic tiles, the blue hue of the mosques, and the sensuality of the harems of the Sultans. The Hotel Four Seasons at the Bosphorus is located in Besiktas and…