Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 13 i Lampoon Magazine International

LA CORONA FERREA è custodita a Monza. La leggenda dice che uno dei chiodi della croce sia l’anima della sua struttura. Voluta da Teodolinda, incoronò Carlo Magno e i sovrani del Sacro Romano Impero – Napoleone scese in Italia e se la pose da solo sul capo. Una fascia di metallo bizantino, rielaborata nel Medioevo, forse può essere intesa come la corona più nobile al mondo – perché anche tra corone c’è differenza, e quasi mai contano le pietre e la mole. Elisabetta II dice che le si sarebbe spezzato il collo sotto il peso di quella britannica – non in senso letterario, ma letterale: durante le cerimonie, la regina è sempre stata ben attenta a placare movimenti anomali della testa. AFFISSE alle pareti della London Library, Evelyn Waugh ricopiava…

RAPHAEL URBINAS Engraved on the gold armband of his beloved Fornarina as though to sign his possession of the woman, as well as to mark the painting indelibly, proclaiming it a signed work. A composed, balanced art to the extent of imitating nature, so much so that it has become a standard of objective beauty over the years, and has been confused, from the time of 19th century art criticism, with an academic norm, or more vulgarly, a stereotype. IT WAS A PRIVILEGED relationship with the beauty and the splendour, the pleasures and the intrigues of the Renaissance courts. It began in the metaphysical ducal fortress in Urbino, suspended between the hills and the rounded landscapes of Montefeltro. Raphael was fed at the breast of his natural mother as a…

11 MAY 2018 Palazzo Carignano, 11am. The event supported by Tiffany & Co. is open to the public and is part of the official calendar of events of the Turin International Book Fair, Salone OFF 60 TH  ANNIVERSARY When the book came out, Time magazine called its heroine “The most exciting young woman ever to come out of Truman Capote’s typewriter. Alone, naive, and a bit scared.” It was 1958. This year marks the 60th anniversary of the first edition in America of Breakfast at Tiffany’s, and the 30th birthday of the International Book Fair Born in Rome in 1983, the writer Paolo Di Paolo introduces us to the upcoming Turin International Book Fair and to the community that animates it: “to keep it alive requires a pact of…

LA CORONA FERREA - the Iron Crown of Lombardy - is preserved in Monza. Legend has it that one of the nails from the True Cross is incorporated in its structure. Commissioned by Theodelinda, it was the crown of Charlemagne and the kings of the Holy Roman Empire – Napoleon came down to Italy to place it on his head himself. A strip of Byzantine metal, re-crafted in the Middle Ages, it is possibly considered the most noble crown in the world – because even among crowns there is a difference, and their size and the number of precious stones used are rarely what counts. Elizabeth II said that her neck would have broken under the weight of the British crown – not figuratively, but literally: during ceremonies, the Queen…

IN ITALY , the year 1975 meant divorce. During the previous year, the crucial referendum had been held. The one in which the nation had been asked: do you want to be able to break up with one another forever? The Italian people had been called to vote for the first abrogative referendum in the history of the Republic. The nos that approved the introduction of divorce accounted for almost sixty per cent of the votes (19,138,300). And so a legal solution for unhappy matrimony was endorsed. In other words, the people gave judges the power to say: “I declare that you are free” partially correcting that impossible promise the spouses had made in the church to “live together happily ever after for as long as you both shall live.”…

PAOLO ARMELLI LONDON , 20 February 2018. The first time in her sixty-year reign, Queen Elizabeth II is attending a fashion show. The reason being that she is about to present the first Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design to Richard Quinn; the designer, at his second show after having graduated from Central Saint Martins, accepts the award in a T-shirt and baseball cap. Like a true fashionista, the 91-year-old sovereign puts her handbag on the floor, and watches the models strut up and down the catwalk she is sitting next to Anna Wintour – Dame Anna Wintour – who, much to the reporters’ dismay, does not deign to remove her sunglasses in Her Majesty’s presence. The Queen seems at ease, after decades of experience with official engagements and…

ISSEY MIYAKE was born in Hiroshima seven years before the atomic bomb was dropped on the city. He is one of the survivors, but that is not what he wants to be remembered for. He very rarely speaks of it. He says that his first encounter with design took place seven years later, as he was walking on the two bridges built in 1952 near the epicentre of the disaster. The two bridges were called To Live and To Die – later renamed To Build and To Depart. As he was looking at them, Miyake understood the emotional power of design for the first time. ISSEY MIYAKE’S creative process in no way resembles the presumable logic of a fashion house. It is based on the relationship between three elements: the…

1 . Acqua di Giò 2. Dior surrealism 3. Call Me by Your Name 4. Clodia THE MOST HANDSOME MAN IN THE WORLD ACQUA DI GIÒ is to Italy for a man. what Chanel N°5 is to France for a woman. One of the best-selling perfumes in the world, always at the top of selling lists. Renowned for its freshness and simplicity – a scent of cleanliness, energy – water, from a mountain stream or from the sea in Liguria. OVER THE YEARS , Armani has chosen men’s faces to represent its essence in the advertising images. In the Nineties, girls pinned up posters together with maxi-covers of the Nirvana albums. Acqua di Giò campaigns led to the first twists of collective fancy: just think that before, the longing for…

THE LEGEND Painter Fleury Joseph Crépin (1875-1948). He had been told that the war would end on the day he finished his three-hundredth painting. He began in 1939, and the last painting bears the date 8 May 1945. Also according to the prophesy, when the war was over, Crepin would then have had to paint forty-five tableaux merveilleux ON THE CORNER of Via Condotti and Bocca di Leone, one enters a playroom. Magic tricks, fortune-telling paraphernalia, séances like out of a 1930s Agatha Christie mystery. A riddle, somewhere between mind and culture. One could say that Hermès is the only fashion maison to venture into a more complicated dimension, in an era in which marketing management (marketing, what an ugly word to include within these lines) seeks only speed and…

Cesare Cunaccia the angels of temperance Fast-forward and rewind, a conversation with Maria Grazia Chiuri ART is what all her work for Dior has in common. It shines through in an unfettered experience via assonance, never theoretic or orthodox. Art that dialogues with the female figure on the twists and turns of the Twentieth century, explored as an ideal laboratory, embracing a territorial outpost. The latest prêt-à-porter collection with its multi-coloured energy of the youthquake, all protestors and barricades, reveals echoes of Nouveau Réalisme and New Dada, references to Rotella, clips from films by Bellocchio. Work on crochet and embroidery provides fodder for new reasoning after reading the book The Subversive Stitch by Rozsika Parker. Under this mask, another mask. I will never be finished removing all these faces.Claude Cahun…

Address book, diary, calendar 1. Aman Venice, Venice 2. Nira Montana, La Thuile 3. Lungarno Hotel, Florence 4. Gulbenkian Museum, Lisbon AMAN VENICE THE AMAN HOTEL is housed in one of Venice’s historical buildings. With a size and a square footage of a political palace rather than a private residence, Palazzo Papadopoli overlooks the Grand Canal near Rialto. It still belongs to the Arrivabene family, who have retreated into the attic – no, it is not about cries for inconsolable Cinderellas, the attic encloses a two-story apartment, with vaults and volumes and modern angles. Putting into practice the agreement with the Aman collection, the restoration was possible in glory: the facade has rediscovered a milky white that stands out in the decay of the lagoon, the stuccos have chosen vigor…

1 In church neither legs nor arms should be crossed. Firstly, because there is already one cross in church and secondly, because a church is not, believe it or not, a waiting room. 2 Women’s shoulders must not be bare, this goes for the bride and bridesmaids too. Only a few pieces of jewellery should be worn and these should be discreet. Hats should only be worn in the morning and should preferably not be of the straw variety. 3 Sandals that show the bare female foot or toes must not be worn, this does not apply just to Chinese or Texan tourists; it also goes for high society lady wedding guests. 4 You must always arrive before the bride at a wedding. Guests should enter and wait, preferably in…