Robert May published The Accomplisht Cook, one of our earliest cookery books, in 1665. His suggested menu for Christmas Day starts with ‘1. A collar of brawn’, before moving on to ‘2. Stewed Broth of Mutton marrow bones; 3. A grand Sallet; 4. A pottage of caponets; 5. A breast of veal in stoffado’ and so on and so on for twenty dishes. Twenty dishes! I kid you not. May finishes with ‘20. A Custard’. They were true trenchermen and women back then. May’s menu makes our Christmas indulgences look like a Weight Watchers mid-week fast.
What about the range of meats, too? May lists brawn, mutton, marrow bones, veal, beef, partridge, venison, swan, goose, sweetbreads and even turkey, that would have arrived relatively recently, like so many good things,…
