The French Church—never much on looks, red brick leaningin the direction of Romanesque—settled into modest circumstanceshow many decades on West 16th?Nothing divine in the details,veneer peeling from doors nevermeant for here, never open. No light,evenings, through colored glass,though by day you could discern,twenty feet above the sidewalk,Christ stepping onto the waters of Galilee,sea and savior oiled by exhaust,nearly indistinguishable. Weeknights,downstairs, a dozen groups renouncedat length crystal or alcohol, skin or smoke,and what each circle resisted glowedat the center of their ring of chairs,nearly visible; there you could consecraterelinquishment, or find someone already ruinedto pursue whatever made you, for the night,unsinkable. The rent, collected each timethey passed the hat, kept the church afloat.Of the congregation eight souls remained,Haitian evangelicals. Only onceI saw someone mount the stairstoward those slapdash doors—who could have…