Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2022 i Taste of the South

THERE ARE MANY MAGICAL PLACES IN THE SOUTH. From the Gulf Coast beaches to the Smoky Mountains and the far west Texas desert, there are just countless places to escape the day-to-day and get lost in the local culture (and the food. I’m always thinking about the food, too). For me, early fall in the rolling hills near Charlottesville, Virginia, is one such place. Misty mornings with a cup of hot coffee looking out a window onto said hills fills me with excitement for a day of hiking, great local restaurants, and maybe a wine tasting. I hope you find Daniel Dubuisson’s story about Virginia’s wine country on page 43 similarly inspiring. If you’re not ready to dive into the fall season yet, the comforting autumnal flavors and dishes in…

MY LATE HUSBAND, GEORGE, AND I PLANTED A GARDEN for as long as I can remember. We moved to Andalusia, Alabama, in 1974, and we were poor! In those first few years, we worked that garden as much for survival as we did for pleasure. We spent more hours than I could count planting and tending to our squash, okra, sweet corn, peppers, tomatoes, and more stuff, too, and then we would spend as many more hours canning and putting up all those vegetables so we could eat through the winter. We’d get up early in the morning when harvesttime came. Most times, we’d drink our coffee under the twilight and then, as the day broke, we’d put on our work clothes and ease down to the garden. We always…

IN THE SOUTH, BREAD ISN’T JUST A HUMBLE SIDE—it’s a vessel for showcasing the full-bodied flavors that make up Southern cuisine. Like a buttery, flaky biscuit slathered in sweet homemade jam or golden-crusted cornbread served alongside a heaping plate of fried chicken, it’s a fact of life that bread is a mainstay of Southern cooking. And with more than a dozen states that make up the South, there is a variety of breads to fill our plates. From a basket of hush puppies accompanying a seafood platter to plates of juicy meat-filled tortillas, we’re covering all the bases with a band of restaurants that serves up the South’s essential breads. Beginning in the bustling city of Austin, Texas, there’s Little Ola’s Biscuits, a neighborhood spot where many flock to get…

Chicken–Goat Cheese–Mustard Greens Lasagna Roll-Ups MAKES 8 SERVINGS (photo on page 49) Save this impressive recipe for the next time you’re cooking for company. 1 (32-ounce) jar tomato-basil pasta sauce1 (15-ounce) container ricotta cheese1 (4-ounce) package goat cheese, softened½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, divided2 cups shredded rotisserie chicken2 cups finely chopped fresh mustard greens¼ cup chopped fresh basil1½ teaspoons kosher salt½ teaspoon ground black pepper16 lasagna noodles, cookedGarnish: grated Parmesan cheese, fresh basil 1. Preheat oven to 375°. Spray a 13x9-inch baking dish with cooking spray. 2. Spread 2½ cups pasta sauce in bottom of dish. 3. In a large bowl, combine ricotta, goat cheese, and ¼ cup Parmesan, stirring until smooth. Fold in chicken, mustard greens, basil, salt, and pepper. Spoon mixture onto each cooked lasagna noodle and spread…

“Regenerative farmed meat focuses on the entire ecosystem.”—TAYLOR COLLINS FOR CENTURIES, earth’s soil has been slowly diminishing. Over-tilled and overfertilized, void of natural vegetation and native species, exposed and eroded, healthy soil has been stripped, in part, by conventional agriculture, and today’s crippling ecosystems are proof. But on 900 acres of rolling Texas terrain, which is part of the state’s Hill Country, Taylor Collins co-owns and operates a ranch where bison, heritage breed hogs, and poultry, to name a few, are helping heal the land. Sitting just outside Fredericksburg, Texas, ROAM Ranch is a regenerative ranch where the mission is to grow food how nature intended. “We are first-generation ranchers who are heavily inspired by producing the best meat on the planet, for the planet,” Taylor says. At the ranch,…

BREADS Apple-Gruyère Focaccia 88 Apple, Bacon, and Cheddar Biscuits 59 Lacy Cornbread 30 Sweet Potato Cornbread with Sorghum Butter 24 DESSERTS Apple Fritter Skillet Cake 62 Apple–Cream Cheese Swirl Bundt Cake 62 Bourbon-Pecan Brownies 65 Caramel-Apple Spice Cake 57 Cheesecake Brownies 67 Cinnamon-Sorghum Blondies 66 Monster Cookie Bars 70 Peanut Butter and Jelly Blondies 70 Rum-Raisin Rice Pudding 81 Sweet Potato Chess Pie 20 Sweet Potato Cookies 21 MAINS Beer-Marinated Chicken Wings 39 Cheesy Veggie Tortellini 51 Chicken Mac-and-Cheese Sandwiches 35 Chicken Soup 30 Chicken Straws with Comeback Sauce 38 Chicken–Goat Cheese–Mustard Greens Lasagna Roll-Ups 51 Cider-Dijon Pork Chops with Roasted Apples 58 Country Captain Casserole 82 Creamy Collards and Sausage Bake 53 Fried Chicken Thighs with Hot Honey 35 Hamburger Steaks with Gravy 85 Popcorn Chicken Thighs with Green…

Cheesy Sweet Potato and Mushroom Bake MAKES 4 SERVINGS Serve this veggie-filled, cheesy goodness to elevate any main dish. 2 tablespoons unsalted butter12 ounces assorted gourmet mushrooms¼ cup sliced shallot1¾ teaspoons kosher salt, divided¾ teaspoon ground black pepper, divided2 teaspoons minced garlic2 teaspoons chopped fresh chives, plus more for garnish1½ teaspoons chopped fresh sage, divided1 teaspoon lemon zest1½ cups heavy whipping cream, room temperature2 tablespoons cornstarch⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg, optional4 cups peeled sweet potatoes, sliced ⅛ inch thick (about 3 medium or 2 large)1½ cups grated Gruyère cheese, divided¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese 1. Preheat oven to 375°. Spray a 2-quart baking dish with cooking spray. 2. In a sauté pan, melt butter over medium-high heat; add mushrooms, shallot, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until…

Beans and Coconut Rice MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS (photo on page 77) This Caribbean-inspired recipe is filled to the brim with flavor. 1 cup dried pink beans*, sorted and rinsed3 cups water1 (13.5-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk1 cup chopped sweet onion2 green onions, thinly sliced2 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic4 teaspoons kosher salt, divided1 teaspoon finely minced fresh ginger1 teaspoon lime zest½ teaspoon ground black pepper5 sprigs fresh thyme1 to 2 whole habanero peppers1 teaspoon whole allspice berries2 cups long-grain white rice, rinsedLime wedges, sliced green onion, sliced Fresno peppers, and hot sauce, to serve 1. In a medium Dutch oven, cover beans with water by 2 inches and let soak for 8 hours or overnight. 2. Drain and rinse beans. Return to pan. Add 3 cups water, coconut milk, onion, green…

SINCE I WAS A YOUNG BOY growing up in Paris, I’ve always known how special the relationship is between a community and its bakery. Our family visited our bakery daily—on weekends for the sourdough we’d enjoy throughout the week, just before dinner to pick up fresh baguettes, and mornings for pastries and coffee. By the time I was 16, I had joined Les Compagnons du Devoir, the oldest craftsmen’s guild in France, and pledged to devote my life to learning and sharing the art and science of bread baking. It was then that I learned all that went into delivering fresh loaves to each and every neighbor, and it began with the gorgeous wheat grown just a few kilometers away and the miller who stone ground it at the peak…

BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER. This age-old adage rings true when talking about the Carolina region’s beloved barbecue hash. The hard truth is that this addicting dish isn’t going to win any beauty pageants. Barbecue hash does have good company among other iconic yet humble-looking Southern dishes—biscuits and gravy and Brunswick stew immediately come to mind. What can we say? We’re all drawn to the foods that seem hard to love at first sight. What these not-so-showstopping dishes, like barbecue hash, have in common is unmatched flavor and rich history that have engrained them into the South’s foodways over generations. Traditionally, barbecue hash is a blend of kitchen leftovers. Pork, potatoes, and onions give it a hearty foundation that blends deliciously with your choice of a mustard…