Innholdsfortegnelse for November/December 2021 i Taste of the South

AS THE OLD ADAGE GOES,’tis better to give than receive. During the holiday season most of all, food plays a central role in our gatherings. We come together around meals both simple and grand, and those dishes around the table represent more than sustenance—they are the building blocks of togetherness. Whether it’s your grandma’s cornbread or my mom’s shrimp dip, every family has its time-honored dishes that celebrate notable days throughout the year. In this issue, we hope you’ll find some new dishes to add into that rotation. In my home at Thanksgiving and Christmas, we shoot for a 75/25 mix of favorite dishes and fresh additions. That way, we can taste the flavors from years past while invigorating the meal with something different. A few dishes I plan to…

BRASSERIE LA BANQUE Charleston, South Carolina This recently opened French eatery welcomed its first guests this past July in one of downtown Charleston’s most beautiful and historic buildings. The dining room’s elegantly restored antique finishes perfectly complement the menu’s traditional French dishes as well as their more innovative fare. Bouillabaisse (a rich fish stew) and steak frites are just a few of their notable mains, but no meal is complete without their drool-worthy, house-made brioche. brasserielabanque.com HILLSIDE FARMACY | Austin, Texas Dripping in Southern charm, this former drugstore (hence the pun) turned restaurant retained its vintage tile floors, wooden display cabinets, and old-school feel. All those qualities come together to create the perfect spot in Austin for incredible breakfasts, brunches, lunches, and even casual dinners. Still need more convincing? Sips like…

Easy Three-Bean Chili MAKES ABOUT 13 CUPS This simplified take on chili makes it manageable enough to throw together on a weeknight. 2 tablespoons vegetable oil3 cups chopped red onion (about 2 medium onions)4 cups water2 (15.5-ounce) cans black beans, rinsed and drained2 (15.5-ounce) cans garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained2 (15.5-ounce) cans light red kidney beans, rinsed and drained1 (28-ounce) can diced fire-roasted tomatoes1 (16-ounce) jar mild salsa verde6 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce2 tablespoons tomato paste2 teaspoons chili powder1 teaspoon ground cumin1 teaspoon kosher salt1 cup chopped fresh cilantroGarnish: chopped fresh cilantro, chopped red onion, shredded Monterey Jack cheese, lime wedges 1. In a large Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onion; cook until softened and lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in 4 cups water, all beans, tomatoes, salsa…

Mashed Potato Croquette MAKES 8 Mashed potatoes are tasty in any form or fashion, and these fried delights are no exception. Vegetable oil2 cups cold thick mashed potatoes3 large eggs, divided1 tablespoon thinly sliced fresh chives1 teaspoon kosher salt¼ teaspoon ground black pepper1 cup all-purpose flour1 tablespoon water1½ cups panko (Japanese bread crumbs)Garnish: sliced fresh chives 1. In a large Dutch oven, pour oil to a depth of 2 inches; heat over medium heat until a deep-fry thermometer registers 340°. 2. In a large bowl, stir together mashed potatoes, 1 egg, chives, salt, and pepper. In a shallow bowl, place flour. In another shallow bowl, whisk together remaining 2 eggs and 1 tablespoon water. In a third shallow bowl, place bread crumbs. 3. Form potato mixture into 8 (2½-inch-wide) patties (¼…

THIS CRIMSON BEAUTY is the ultimate holiday cake. It’s a staple menu item to commemorate and celebrate Juneteenth; its red hue makes it the perfect pairing with Valentine’s Day and Christmas fare, and it’s often requested as the centerpiece for birthdays and other special occasions. And like many other Southern sweets, red velvet cake has evolved over time to become the vivid, cream cheese frosting-topped bake that we know and love today. When home cooks started using cocoa powder in place of chocolate bars for cake baking in the early 1900s, the raw cocoa reacted with acidic ingredients like vinegar or buttermilk and created a deep red-hued cake. During the World Wars and the Great Depression, it was commonplace to use fruits and veggies to moisten cakes when dairy and…

BREADS Cornmeal-Pecan Pancakes 86 Dinner Rolls 76 Candy Cane Red Velvet Swirl Loaf 83 DESSERTS Ambrosia Pie 68 Beet Red Velvet Cake 74 Chick-O-Stick™ Peanut Butter Pie 80 Chocolate-Coconut Custard Pie 66 Cranberry-Apple Pie 63 Date-Nut Balls 36 Divinity Pavlova 81 Fruit Bundt Cake 43 Fruitcake 37 Fruitcake Bars 46 Fruitcake Bread Pudding with Rum Sauce 47 Fruitcake Sandwich Cookies 47 Goo Goo Poke Cake 80 Molasses Sweet Potato Bars 68 New Classic Fruitcake 42 Praline Pecan Chess Pie 64 Triple-Chocolate Bread Pudding 88 DRINKS Eggnog 37 MAINS Baked Oysters 51 Classic Hoppin’ John 53 Creamy Turkey and Wild Rice Soup 58 Easy Three-Bean Chili 39 Feast of the Seven Fishes Stew 54 Thanksgiving Eggs Benedict 59 Turkey Hash 59 MISCELLANEOUS Blue Cheese Dressing 28 Buttermilk Pie Dough 63 Chocolate…

Which meals come to mind when you think of traditional Southern food? Maybe it’s crispy fried chicken or pots of gumbo or even a pan of cornbread? To Benjamin “BJ” Dennis, who was born and raised in Charleston, South Carolina, it goes far beyond any particular dish. Foods of the region are fueled by soul, and their history is detailed and storied with many classic recipes tracing back to the Lowcountry and BJ’s Gullah ancestors who lived in South Carolina and parts of northern Georgia. The often-overlooked impact of the Gullah Geechee people’s contribution to modern Southern cuisine is what drives him to educate today’s generation in hopes that the culture and food he’s dedicated his career to saving don’t disappear. What is Gullah cuisine? It’s the foodways of African…

Cheesy Broccoli Casserole MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS Try it once, and you’ll want to incorporate this recipe into your regular rotation. ½ cup unsalted butter1 cup chopped sweet onion3 cloves garlic, minced½ cup all-purpose flour2½ cups low-sodium vegetable broth, room temperature1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened6 ounces smoked Cheddar cheese, shredded3½ teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, divided1 tablespoon Dijon mustard1 teaspoon kosher salt½ teaspoon ground marjoram½ teaspoon ground black pepper8 cups small broccoli florets (about 1¼ pounds)1 cup crushed buttery round crackers2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 2-quart baking dish with cooking spray. 2. In a large Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion and garlic; cook, stirring frequently, until tender, about 5 minutes. Whisk in flour; cook for 2 minutes, whisking constantly. Gradually…

Cranberry-Apple Pie MAKES 1 (9-INCH) DEEP-DISH PIE Make a few extra batches of this delicious piecrust to keep in the freezer and pull out whenever you receive your next holiday potluck invite or company is coming. 5 cups peeled ¼-inch-sliced Granny Smith apples2 cups peeled ¼-inch-sliced Honeycrisp apples1 cup dried cranberries½ cup granulated sugar½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar¼ cup cornstarch1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice2 teaspoons vanilla extract1 teaspoon apple pie spice½ teaspoon kosher saltButtermilk Pie Dough (recipe follows)2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed1 large egg, lightly beaten 1. Preheat oven to 425°. Place oven rack in bottom third of oven. 2. In a large bowl, combine apples, cranberries, sugars, cornstarch, lemon juice, vanilla, pie spice, and salt. 3. On a lightly floured surface, roll half of Buttermilk Pie Dough to…

I’VE ALWAYS LIKED TO THINK of myself as a food historian. My dad was a history teacher for 40 years, so you can say a deep interest in the world’s past was baked into me from the very start, just like we are about to bake this incredibly delicious and decadent chocolate bread pudding. A long, long time ago, bread pudding was actually considered a “poor man’s” dish. Frugal cooks needed a way to use up leftover bread that had gone stale, and eventually, a version of the custardy bread pudding that we love today was born. In any good story of origin, I can totally respect humble beginnings. Even in its simplest form, bread pudding is amazing, and I’m sure the very first one was heavenly in its own…

1 CATHEAD DISTILLERY BITTER ORANGE VODKA Cathead was the first legal distillery in Mississippi, and they have bottled their one-of-a-kind spirits since firing up the stills over a decade ago. With this vodka, their most citrus-filled option, they’ve packed all the natural freshness of bitter oranges and satsumas into every drop. There are also subtle hints of vanilla that will make your taste buds beg for more. Be sure to check out our recipe for New Classic Fruitcake featuring this delicious sip on page 42. $19.95; catheaddistillery.com 2 THE LOVELESS CAFE OLD-FASHIONED SORGHUM This Nashville landmark has been around for more than 60 years, and you can get a taste of their timeless Southern meals right in your very own home thanks to their online store. From their famous biscuits to…

DURING THE HOLIDAYS when my children, Dallas and Hannah, were growing up, they always had their own favorite recipes when it came time to plan the meal. I always asked my husband, George, first, “Anything special you want for Christmas dinner?” Sometimes, he’d offer a suggestion or two. Other times, he’d just say, “Whatever you think, Mama.” Dallas and Hannah, on the other hand, always had a list: butter beans, green bean casserole, Squash Alabama, biscuits, cornbread, sweet potato casserole, cranberry sauce and dressing, honey-glazed ham, turkey, and on and on. If I cooked everything they asked for, I would have had to put two dining room tables end to end just to fit it all! “I wanted my family to know the meal was intended to be ‘from me…

The distinct taste of sorghum syrup is difficult to put into words. In the rank of Southern sweeteners, it is milder than robust molasses, more complexly flavored than cane syrup, and less sweet than honey. If you ask Virginia chef and recent sorghum fanatic Ian Boden, “Sorghum [syrup] is everything that molasses wants to be but will never be.” Unlike molasses, which is a sugar byproduct, sorghum syrup comes from the stalks of a cereal grain known as sorghum. There’s a common misconception that the two syrups are one and the same, but once you’ve tried sorghum syrup, you understand why Southerners have long been obsessed with the sweetener that’s finding a renewed role in modern kitchens. The sorghum plant originated in present-day northeast Africa. The earliest records of the…

Chick-O-Stick™ Peanut Butter Pie MAKES 1 (9-INCH) PIE If you can’t find these peanut butter-and-coconut-flavored candies, try looking at your local Cracker Barrel, amazon.com, or the maker’s website, atkinsoncandy.com. 2 cups crushed salted butter crackers (about 60 crackers)1½ (1.6-ounce) sticks Chick-O-Stick candies, finely ground (about ½ cup)½ teaspoon kosher salt7 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted6 ounces cream cheese, softened1 cup creamy peanut butter¼ cup sugar½ teaspoon coconut extract1 cup cold heavy whipping creamSweetened whipped cream, to serveGarnish: crushed Chick-O-Stick candies 1. Preheat oven to 275°. 2. In a large bowl, stir together cracker crumbs, candy, salt, and melted butter. Press mixture into bottom and up sides of a 9-inch pie plate. Place pie plate on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until dry and fragrant, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool completely on a wire…

EVERYBODY AND THEIR MAMA HAS THEIR OWN IDEA of the perfect Southern cornbread. Some like it crispy and fresh out of a cast-iron skillet. Others prefer it fluffy and baked in a sheet pan. Some like to enjoy it as an essential side dish, and some like to let it soak up the flavor of their favorite soups and stews. And don’t even get folks started on the different forms of cornbread. The debate over which is best—conventional slices, corn muffins, corn pone, hoecakes, or hushpuppies—rages on to this day with no end in sight. For us, we’ll take it any way we can get it, so we’re happy to be spoiled with choices from these eight incredible restaurants from all around the region. The Porch in Dallas, Texas, adds…

FEW DESSERTS ARE AS ICONIC as an old-fashioned pound cake. Donning a crisp, sugary crust and a dense, moist interior, it’s the baked good every Southern grandmother has mastered and every novice baker yearns to perfect. There’s common speculation that pound cake was named for its weight, and while that’s technically true, its 400-year-old history may surprise you. Pound cake originated in Northern Europe during the 18th century as a 4-pound cake containing 1 pound each of sugar, butter, flour, and eggs. If that sounds like a hefty dessert, that’s because it was. During this time, large families and large feasts were commonplace, so an extra-large cake was in good company on the supper table. Originally, no leaven was used to make the cake, so it was quite dense, but…