Innholdsfortegnelse for January - February 2017 i Taste of the South

with mothers, grandmothers—maybe even dads—who taught us the hallowed art of Southern cooking. They watched as we stood on step stools in their kitchens, trying our best to measure flour, making a huge mess. Thanks to their infinite patience, we gradually grew into the cooks we are today. If you weren’t lucky enough to grow up with a Southern grandmother at your side, we have just the issue for you. Starting on page 31, our Ultimate Southern Cookbook is full of classic, down-home recipes that will bring back your very best food memories. From Bacon-Fat Biscuits to Sunday Pot Roast to golden and gooey Pineapple Upside-Down Cake, these tried-and-true dishes are perfect for bringing your family together around the table. Before you begin cooking, be sure to turn to page…

ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA January 17-26 In a city as unique as Asheville, you know this restaurant week will be good. We’re excited to see the menus from Rhubarb, The Blackbird, The Market Place Restaurant, and Nightbell. NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE January 16-22 With participants like Puckett’s Grocery, Americano, Urban Grub, and many more, Nashville Originals is sure to put on a culinary show for their restaurant week. CHARLESTON, WEST VIRGINIA January 23-28 Celebrating its fourth year, Charleston Restaurant Week will play host to around two dozen locally-owned restaurants, such as South Hills Market & Café, Laury’s, and Paterno’s in the Park. OPENING SOON Filled with top-notch restaurants and food inspired from around the world, The Pizitz Food Hall in Birmingham, Alabama, will be a one-stop shop for Southern and global cuisine alike.…

BUTTERMILK BISCUITS Makes about 10 Folding the dough creates multiple layers of dough and fat resulting in flaky biscuits. 21/2 cups self-rising flour 2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, cubed 3/4 cup cold whole buttermilk 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1. Preheat oven to 425°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. In a large bowl, stir together flour and sugar. Using a pastry blender or 2 forks, cut in cold butter until mixture is crumbly. Stir in buttermilk just until combined. 3. Turn out dough onto a heavily floured surface. Fold dough in half until it comes together, 3 or 4 times. Pat or roll dough to 1 inch thick. Using a 2 1/2-inch round cutter dipped in flour, cut dough without twisting cutter, rerolling scraps…

BACON BRAISED BLACK-EYED PEAS Makes about 10 servings Bacon adds a hint of smoky flavor to these tender braised peas. 1 pound thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces 1 large yellow onion, chopped 3 pounds shelled black-eyed peas 6 cups low-sodium chicken broth 2 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper 2 dried red chile peppers 1 bay leaf 1. In a large Dutch oven, cook bacon over medium heat until crisp, about 10 minutes. Remove bacon using a slotted spoon, and let drain on paper towels, reserving 1/4 cup drippings in pan. 2. Add onion to pan; cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 6 minutes. Add bacon, peas, broth, brown sugar, salt, black pepper, chile peppers, and bay leaf. Bring to…

One of my earliest childhood memories is of eating fried chicken. I was three years old, I think. My Aunt Myrtle had taken me along to visit family in rural north Alabama where she grew up. For Sunday dinner, my Aunt Louella placed a crispy drumstick on my plate, and I was in heaven. That was my favorite piece of chicken, and I thought Louella hung the moon. I’m sure that Louella’s Sunday yardbird was more of the backyard, do-it-yourself variety. (There weren’t many modern conveniences in Cullman County in the early 1960s.) In those days you weren’t always assured of getting your favorite piece. Chicken didn’t come in convenient packages of four breasts or eight drumsticks; when you bought a chicken, you got all the pieces—two each of breasts,…

Asturdy stalwart of the Southern kitchen, the cast-iron skillet has long been relied on as a faithful vessel for bringing our best recipes to life. But as devotion to cast iron grows and those who were once mere admirers become avid collectors, one begins to wonder—is there enough to go around? Enter our reverence for the cast-iron creators of today. One such cast-iron maker with a fast-growing following is Isaac Morton, creator and owner of Smithey Ironware, based in Charleston, South Carolina. His beautiful, highly crafted skillets have become a beacon to those searching for modern, quality cookware with traditional craftsmanship. The design of his pieces is so classic and their surfaces so smooth that one would think Isaac had apprenticed in the hallowed halls of long-gone foundries, or at…

Originally from Columbia, South Carolina, Sarah Simmons moved to New York City and discovered a hole in the restaurant scene—it was missing a space for up-and-coming chefs to share their talents. This gave her the idea for City Grit, a culinary salon that now hosts chefs from around the country. That was the jumping off point for her next concept, Birds & Bubbles, a fried chicken and champagne spot that lauds the art of the Southern-fried bird. Sarah recently brought her talents back to her home town to open Rise Gourmet Goods and Bakeshop, a “Southern boulangerie” that serves elevated versions of classic Southern desserts as well as fresh breads and pastries. One dish everyone should have up his or her sleeve? Every Southerner should be able to make a…

BIRMINGHAM, AL Where to Eat WE HAVE DOUGHNUTS This downtown doughnut stand, dreamed up by old-fashioned doughnut champion Phil and Sara Amthor and friends, is constantly inventing delicious seasonal flavors, but you can always count on four classics: buttermilk, chocolate, double chocolate, and brown butter. wehavedoughnuts.com BRICK & TIN This local hotspot takes the ingredients of fine dining and serves them in a more accessible way—on a sandwich made with their fresh-baked bread. The Mountain Brook location’s menu has expanded to include salads and entrees for lunch and dinner, and folks fill up the tables whenever the doors are open. brickandtin.com TED’S RESTAURANT Ted’s Restaurant is the perfect spot to experience the rich Greek heritage in Birmingham’s food scene. Owners Tasos and Beba Touloupis originally bought the meat-and-three from “Mister…

SUNDAY POT ROAST Makes about 6 servings Fennel and fresh rosemary add bright flavor to this comforting roast. 1 (4-pound) boneless chuck roast, trimmed 3 teaspoons kosher salt, divided 1 teaspoon ground black pepper, divided 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 stalks celery, cut into 3-inch pieces 3 cloves garlic, halved 3 bay leaves 2 large thyme sprigs 1 large yellow onion, cut into 6 wedges 1 cup crushed tomatoes 1 cup beef broth 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon fennel seed, crushed 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper 12 small Yukon gold potatoes, halved 4 large carrots, peeled, cut in half lengthwise, then cut into 3-inch pieces Garnish: chopped fresh parsley 1. Preheat oven to 300°. 2. Sprinkle beef with 2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. In a…

COCONUT CREAM PIE Makes 1 (9-inch) pie This old-fashioned custard pie is a tried and true family favorite. 13/4 cups sweetened flaked coconut 1 (14.1-ounce) package refrigerated piecrusts 2/3 cup granulated sugar 3 cups whole milk, divided 3 large eggs, lightly beaten 1/3 cup cornstarch 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/4 teaspoon salt 11/2 cups heavy whipping cream 1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar 1. Preheat oven to 350°. 2. Spread coconut in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until lightly golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Let cool completely. 3. Let dough stand for 10 minutes at room temperature. On a lightly floured surface, unroll one piecrust. Lightly brush with water, and place second piecrust on top, sealing layers together. Roll dough to a 13-inch circle.…

When it comes to soul-satisfying comfort food, it’s hard to beat a hearty slice of meatloaf. Beloved by Southerners, this dish won hearts during the Great Depression and World War II by lending as much nutrition to the dinner table as possible at a low cost. Whether you like it smothered in sauce, dipped in ketchup, or prepared with an inspired twist, meatloaf is always a winner. When you don’t have time to cook it at home, here are a few of our favorite places to indulge your craving. MAYFEL’S ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA This restaurant may be located in the Blue Ridge mountains, but owner Loretta Wolley turned to her Louisiana childhood when developing the menu for her restaurant. Mayfel’s Meatloaf, named after Loretta’s grandmother who created the recipe, is…

A generation of Southern cooks is slowly fading into memory. They are the mothers and grandmothers who helped define traditional Southern food for the Baby Boomers and every generation down to X, Y, and Z. From the bayous of Louisiana to the Appalachian Mountains, they shared one quality—if they didn’t have what they needed to get dinner on the table, they knew how to improvise. Women like these—I count my mother, Nelle Wright Terry, and her sisters among them—grew up during the Great Depression. As my Aunt Myrtle once told me, “We didn’t have much during the Depression, but we didn’t know anyone who had any more than we did.” They knew how to wring a yardbird’s neck for supper, and whip up a quick peach cobbler while the chicken…

Made in Columbia, Alabama, this cornmeal is perfect for a variety of Southern classics. 1. MUDDY POND SORGHUM SYRUP A staple in most Southern cooks’ cupboards for decades, sorghum syrup has found its home again in our kitchen thanks to its thick, rich sweetness. Muddy Pond Sorghum Mill has been producing sorghum syrup since the early 1980s in Muddy Pond, Tennessee; its rich flavor is mildly sweet and is perfect atop biscuits and waffles. $8 for 1-pint jar; muddypondsorghum.com 2. RIFLE PAPER CO. CITRUS FLORAL RECIPE BOX AND CARDS What’s a cook without his or her most trusted recipes? Made in Winter Park, Florida, this recipe tin is a charming way to store all your heirloom recipes, and includes matching recipe cards and dividers for organization—something every home cook needs.…

A staple of Southern cuisine for more than 200 years, collard greens aren’t just a quaint specialty served with black-eyed peas to ensure wealth in the coming year. True Southerners wouldn’t turn down a mess o’ greens (served with cornbread to sop up the pot liquor, of course) any day of the year. Southern folklore recommends that you hang a collard green leaf over your door to ward off evil spirits, and placing one on your forehead is thought to cure headaches. No matter what you believe, during the blustery winter months, a hearty serving of collard greens is definitely good for whatever ails you. Not to mention downright delicious. TIPS SHOP SMART Peak season for collard greens is January through April. When buying, look for crisp green leaves with…

1 TAKE CAKE OF YOUR CAST IRON Clean your pan as soon as it’s cool enough to handle. Avoid soaking it in water, and don’t use soap unless absolutely necessary. Kosher salt is a great natural abrasive for cleaning cast iron. It’s softer than the iron but harder than most stuck-on food particles. Refresh the seasoning by brushing canola oil on the interior of your skillet, and then wipe every trace of oil off. (Only the thinnest layer of oil should remain.) Place in the oven upside down, and heat at 400° for two hours, then turn the oven off, and let the skillet cool in the oven. 2 SAVE THAT BACON FAT! Bacon fat is your best friend in the kitchen. Save it in a covered container in the…

JALAPEÑO-BACON PIMIENTO CHEESE Makes about 3 cups Classic Pimiento Cheese (recipe follows) 6 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled 1 jalapeño, seeded and diced Garnish: crumbled cooked bacon 1. Make 1 recipe Classic Pimiento Cheese. Stir in bacon and jalapeño until combined. Garnish with bacon, if desired. CLASSIC PIMIENTO CHEESE Makes about 3 cups This classic is great on grilled cheese sandwiches, crackers, or served with crispy vegetables. 2 cups shredded mild Cheddar cheese 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened 1 (4-ounce) jar diced pimientos, drained 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder 1/4 teaspoon onion powder 1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper Crackers and pickles, to serve 1. In a medium bowl, stir together Cheddar, cream cheese, pimientos, mayonnaise, salt, garlic powder, onion powder, and red pepper…