Innholdsfortegnelse for May - June 2015 i Taste of the South

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

FROM THE EDITOR

THROUGHOUT THE SOUTH, BARBECUE brings folks together around the table and tells the story of a place. The type (and cut) of meat smoked reveals as much about a geographic area as do the sauces that are served alongside. This issue celebrates all things barbecue, and whether you smoke pork shoulders for hours or frequent your favorite cinder block joints, we’ve got plenty of recipes that utilize those tender, smoke-infused morsels. And no plate of barbecue would be complete without delicious sides. Find recipes for our favorites, prepared two ways, on page 41. Visit most any barbecue establishment in the South, and their case of milehigh pies is likely to capture your attention as soon as you walk in the door. Pie rounds out any platter of ‘cue, so don’t…

1 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

Around the South

BALISE NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA Named after the first French settlement at the mouth of the Mississippi River, chef Justin Devillier’s new restaurant is reminding diners and critics why he’s a James Beard favorite. French technique inspires the menu, in particular the garde manger offerings—elegant chilled dishes like venison terrine, pickled quail eggs, oysters, and composed salads starring vegetables like chilled roasted beets and long-stemmed broccoli. Dinner features like Rabbit Roulade and Roasted Grouper are equally elegant, yet heartily comforting. balisenola.com THE GATHERING LIVINGSTON, MISSISSIPPI When the railroad bypassed the town of Livingston in the 1850s, the community vanished, leaving behind a lonely crossroads. But the area is coming back to life, thanks to developers who have built an 1800s-style town square in its place, housing a full-service gas station, a…

1 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

healthier helpings

Icebox desserts are your best defense against soaring summer temperatures. These no-cook pudding pops get a wholesome boost from frozen banana, which blends into a smooth and creamy treat. BANANA PUDDING POPS Yield: approximately 10 servings 4 medium ripe bananas, divided 3 tablespoons maple syrup 1 tablespoon almond butter 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 cup frozen whipped topping, thawed 1⁄2 cup reduced-fat plain yogurt 11⁄2 cups vanilla wafers, chopped and divided Garnish: whipped topping, crushed vanilla wafers 1. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Slice 3 bananas; place on prepared pan in an even layer. Freeze 2 to 3 hours. 2. In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse frozen banana until crumbly. Add maple syrup, almond butter, and vanilla; process until smooth. Add whipped topping and…

1 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

SWEET& SMOKY RIBS

BABY BACK RIBS Yield: approximately 4 servings A tangy cider vinegar mopping sauce gives these classic ribs an extra layer of flavor. 5 tablespoons chili powder 1⁄4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar 3 tablespoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons onion powder 1 tablespoon dry mustard 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon garlic salt 2 (21⁄2-pound) racks baby back ribs 2 cups apple cider vinegar 2 cups water Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows) 1. In a medium bowl, stir together chili powder, brown sugar, salt, onion powder, mustard, oregano, pepper, and garlic salt. Reserve 1⁄4 cup spice mixture for mopping sauce. 2. Prepare ribs as directed, seasoning with spice mixture (see Rib Tips). 3. In a small saucepan, combine vinegar, 2 cups water, and reserved 1⁄4 cup…

3 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

J.Q. Dickinson SALT-WORKS SEVENTH-GENERATION SALTMAKERS PRESERVING HISTORY

Siblings Nancy Bruns and Lewis Payne are the seventh generation of a salt-making family in the river town of Malden, located in the Kanawha River Valley, just outside Charleston. Their family started making salt in 1817 when their ancestor William Dickinson invested in properties along the Kanawha River where he had heard of people boiling brine from nearby springs for the resulting salt. These springs bubbled forth from the Iapetus Ocean, an ancient, untouched sea trapped beneath the Appalachian Mountains. Dickinson drilled for the brine, using hollowedout tree trunks for piping, and became one of the major salt producers in the town that grew to be known as the “salt making capital of the East.” Massive growth in the salt industry was fueled by the meatpacking industry in Cincinnati. J.Q.…

6 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

CRAVEABLE SOUTHERN CLASSICS

When Virginia Willis decided she wanted to lose weight, she knew she loved food too much to live her life on a diet of tasteless substitutes. Instead, she turned to her extensive food knowledge and rediscovered the healthy side of her beloved Southern cuisine. In Lighten Up, Y’all, Virginia shares her personal health journey through wonderfully rethought Southern recipes, offering hints and tricks she’s learned along the way to help you stay mindful of what you eat. With recipes like Oven-Fried Okra, Smothered and Covered Chicken and Gravy, and Old-Fashioned Buttermilk Pie, Virginia leaves no plate unfilled in her effort to make healthy, delicious Southern food accessible to all. Tell us how you got started in the kitchen. I have always loved to cook—I was practically born in the kitchen.…

5 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

The Southern Lady Cooks

When Judy Yeager retired from her job with the state of Kentucky, where she worked for 27 years, she started her website, The Southern Lady Cooks, so she could share her favorite recipes. Judy loves spending time in the kitchen cooking for family and friends, writing, and photographing all of the recipes on her website and in her first cookbook, Sweet Things. Pull up a chair, grab a glass of sweet tea, and visit with Judy for a spell. Most requested recipes? Easy Christmas Divinity and Southern Jam Cake. Three ingredients that are always in your pantry? I love to bake, and I always have spices (cinnamon is my favorite!), oats, and chocolate chips. Favorite slow-cooker recipe? Pulled pork barbecue. Ultimate comfort food? Chicken and dumplings. Favorite midnight snack? If…

1 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

KNOW Your ‘CUE

1. EAR Believe it or not, pig ear sandwiches have a cult following. Just ask the regulars at the Big Apple Inn in Jackson, Mississippi. 2. SHOULDER Surprise—Boston butt, the source of our beloved pulled pork, actually comes from the pig’s shoulder. This humble cut was made popular in colonial Boston, where it was packed into barrels (then referred to as butts). 3. LOIN This portion yields delectable cuts (like the tenderloin and chops) but also includes baby back ribs. Cut from near the backbone, these ribs are short and meaty. 4. SPARE RIBS Longer and near the belly, these ribs traditionally have more fat and flavor than baby back ribs. 5. BELLY Braised or fried, pork belly is all the rage at restaurants these days. Thinly sliced, it’s better…

1 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

SIDETRIPS QUICK ESCAPES OFF THE BEATEN PATH

Travelers Rest, South Carolina Perched at the gateway to the Blue Ridge Mountains, Travelers Rest (known as T.R. by locals) is a charming small town just 20 minutes north of bustling Greenville. Stop for a spell and explore these local favorites. The Swamp Rabbit Trail This 18.7-mile mixed-use greenway winds its way from Greenville through the campus of Furman University and on up to Travelers Rest. The trail is relaxingly flat and takes about an hour to travel by bicycle, which you can rent for $5. greenville.bcycle.com The Café at Williams Hardware When the Swamp Rabbit Trail put T.R. on the map, sisters Joyce and Nancy McCarrell knew all those cyclists and runners needed to be fed. Their nostalgic general store and café meets that need well with classic sandwiches…

1 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

Southern plate SUPPERS

Recently, I’ve learned the drawback of having so many wonderful grandparents is that you eventually end up losing them. I’ve been left with treasures untold for having known them, though, and some awfully good memories. This past year, my Papa Reed was reunited with his mama, daddy, and nine siblings in heaven. I imagine he had quite a homecoming; goodness knows he lived quite a life. I loved visiting his farm when I was a girl. We spent our days chasing goats, gathering eggs, and swinging from a rope swing that hung from an oak tree in the yard Papa Reed had a great sense of humor and a quick smile. He lost a good bit of his hearing in World War II and had a hard time with children’s…

5 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

SIDE BY SIDE

CREAMY COLESLAW Yield: 6 to 8 servings Use a good Southern mayonnaise like Blue Plate or Duke’s to give this coleslaw the best flavor. 6 cups shredded green cabbage 2 cups shredded red cabbage 1 cup grated carrot 2 tablespoons grated yellow onion 3⁄4 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 11⁄4 teaspoons celery salt 1 teaspoon celery seed 1⁄2 teaspoon ground black pepper 1. In a large bowl, combine cabbages, carrot, and onion. 2. In a small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, mustard, sugar, vinegar, celery salt, celery seed, and pepper. Add mayonnaise mixture to cabbage mixture, stirring to combine. Refrigerate 30 minutes to overnight before serving. CARROT-POBLANO SLAW Yield: 6 to 8 servings Tart with just a touch of heat, this simple…

5 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

FIVE WAYS WITH pound cake

Dense, rich, and buttery, pound cake is the workhorse of the Southern dessert table. Though it boasts a delicate crumb and nuanced flavoring, its subtle beauty can go unnoticed, getting lost in the crowd of cakes bearing more obvious plumage. Luckily in the South, we are used to looking beyond the outer trappings of beauty and know the true worth of something lies on the inside. Showing up at community functions, funerals, and, at my house, even masquerading as a birthday cake, pound cake is always appropriate and welcome. Pound cake earned its name honestly, as its earliest incarnations centuries ago in Europe (France and England debate over who first came up with the velvety butter cake) actually included a pound each of butter, flour, sugar, and eggs. These were…

7 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

Prep and Provisions Father’s Day Edition

CENTRAL BBQ PORK RINDS If you can’t make it to Memphis, Tennessee, to sample Central Barbecue’s pork rinds, don’t worry—they’ll ship them to you! Dusted with spice and infused with smoky flavor, these treats are irresistibly crisp. One taste, and you’ll be hooked like we are. Three bags for $17.97; cbqmemphis.com BISON AIRLIGHTER Serious grillers take note— there’s a new must-have toy on the market. This high-tech fire starter ignites coals fast with a concentrated jet of flame, then stokes the fire with its built-in fan. Packed with features like an LED light and a bottle opener, the Airlighter is a griller’s Swiss Army knife. Makes a great Father’s Day gift! $79.95; airlighter.com BACK FORTY BEER VINEGAR Gadsden, Alabama’s Back Forty Beer Company may be best known for their microbrews,…

1 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

Louisville DERBY CITY

610 MAGNOLIA New York trained with Korean roots, Chef Edward Lee fell in love with Louisville on a visit 13 years ago and never looked back. At 610 Magnolia, he blurs the line between art and food, creating impeccable dishes that are a riot of local flavor, color, and texture. I devoured every dish set before me, but none turned my head like his Pecan Pie. His deconstructed interpretation was a surrealist twist on tradition: a pecan financier (a springy French cake) served with a smear of sticky pecan pie filling, cocoa nib ice cream, and topped with coconut whipped cream . Find it: 610 MAGNOLIA AVE. 610MAGNOLIA.COM BLUE DOG BAKERY I could list a hundred, but here are just a few reasons why I fell in love with this…

4 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

NEW WAYS WITH BBQ

CLASSIC BEEF BRISKET Yield: 12 to 15 servings Smoked low and slow, this Texasstyle brisket is one of our barbecue favorites. Mesquite wood chips 1 (12-pound) whole beef brisket 1⁄4 cup kosher salt 1⁄4 cup ground black pepper 1. Soak wood chips in water at least 30 minutes. 2. Preheat smoker to 225° to 250°. Sprinkle soaked wood chips over coals. 3. Trim fat on brisket to 1⁄4 inch thick. In a disposable roasting pan, place brisket, fat side up. In a small bowl, combine salt and pepper. Rub evenly over all sides of brisket. Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes. 4. Cook brisket, with smoker lid closed, 5 hours. Remove brisket from pan; discard pan. Wrap brisket in heavy-duty aluminum foil. Return brisket to smoker; cook, with smoker…

6 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

BLUE-RIBBON PIES

BUTTERMILK CHESS PIE Yield: 1 (9-inch) pie It’s hard to choose favorites when it comes to Southern pies, but this buttery, custardy treat tops our list. 1⁄2 (14.1-ounce) package refrigerated piecrusts (1 sheet) 4 large eggs 2 cups sugar 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1 cup whole buttermilk 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons plain cornmeal 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1⁄8 teaspoon kosher salt 1. Preheat oven to 350°. 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll piecrust into a 12-inch circle. Transfer to a 9-inch pie plate, pressing into bottom and up sides. Fold edges under, and crimp as desired. Top with a piece of parchment paper, letting ends extend over edges of plate. Add pie weights. 3. Bake 20 minutes. Carefully remove paper and weights. Let cool 10 minutes…

6 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

SOUTH’S BEST banana PUDDING

Arnold’s Country Kitchen NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE A Nashville institution, Arnold’s Country Kitchen has been serving up banana pudding for more than 30 years. This family-owned meat-and-three makes a warm vanilla sauce that’s poured over sliced bananas while it’s still hot, imbuing as much banana flavor into the dish as possible. Layered and cooked with ‘Nilla Wafers and topped with meringue, the result is soft and smooth, with just the right amount of texture. Arnold’s regulars are helpful in showing newcomers the ropes, so don’t be scared off by the crowd—get in line and grab a bowl of pudding—you’ll pick up the tempo! 605 8th Ave. S. 615.256.4455 Salem’s Diner HOMEWOOD, ALABAMA This tiny restaurant tucked away in downtown Homewood is one of those classic diners that you don’t see much anymore,…

7 min

Taste of the South|May - June 2015

low & slow barbecue

SHARE WITH US! IF YOU HAVE A TREASURED FAMILY RECIPE YOU’D LIKE TO SHARE, E-MAIL US AT TASTEEDITOR@HOFFMANMEDIA.COM “Some folks ay cooking pork in a slow cooker isn’t true barbecue, but that’s because they haven’t tasted this ecipe!” —Gerry Finley SLOW-COOKER COLA-BARBECUE PORK Recipe courtesy Gerry Finley, Slidell, Louisiana Yield: 8 to 10 servings Sweet and spicy, this fuss-free Boston butt is an instant crowd pleaser. 1 cup cola, such as Coca-Cola 1⁄2 cup ketchup 1 tablespoon salt 1 tablespoon garlic powder 1 tablespoon onion powder 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 11⁄2 teaspoons ground red pepper 1 (51⁄2-pound) bone-in Boston butt 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Barbecue sauce, to serve 1. In a medium bowl, stir together cola and ketchup; pour into a 6-quart slow cooker. 2. In a medium bowl, stir…

1 min