Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2020 i Taste of the South

THE DAWN OF SEPTEMBER brings the start of my favorite shoulder season—that lovely time when one season’s end overlaps another’s beginning. I always bake a pie to send summer off with well wishes and whisper fall into existence. Yet, I find this month magical as we still get to enjoy the freshness of crisp watermelon and cold sweet tea while saying hello to the warm, carb-topped comfort foods that epitomize the South. Our Late Summer Casseroles (starting on page 51) are the ideal transitional dishes from late summer into those cool early fall nights. But we aren’t saying farewell to the abundance of fresh produce quite yet. In this issue, we’re celebrating Shelling Beans & Field Peas (page 43) in traditional and inventive ways along with a seasonal taste of…

Sweet Potato Grits Cakes with Shrimp MAKES 24 Sweet potatoes and rice grits form the base for these elegant appetizers. 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided1¾ teaspoons kosher salt, divided¾ teaspoon ground black pepper, divided1 cup rice grits*1 medium sweet potato, peeled and grated2 small Fresno peppers, seeded and thinly sliced1 tablespoon minced shallot24 large shrimp, peeled and deveined (tails removed)¼ cup dry white wine2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsleyGarnish: chopped fresh parsley 1. Line a small rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper; spray parchment with cooking spray. 2. In a medium Dutch oven, bring broth, 2 tablespoons butter, 1¼ teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon black pepper to a boil over medium-high heat. Whisk in grits and sweet potato; reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until tender,…

LIKE MANY OF THE SOUTH’S MUCH-LOVED FOODS, fried chicken is believed to have been brought to the region at the hands of enslaved Africans. But during those times, chicken wasn’t as popular as it is today. The free-roaming fowl were considered dirty, but on the other hand, chickens were inexpensive, easy to raise, and a good source of meat. For many African Americans across the South, chickens became crucial to their livelihoods and provided a taste of economic independence that they’d never known before. In the early days, enslaved and freed African Americans found success as poultry merchants. Selling their stock to people of all kinds, they experienced a profound sense of hierarchy in the marketplace. After the Civil War, a group of business-savvy black women in Gordonsville, Virginia, found…

EARLY HINTS OF FALL mean it’s time to take advantage of the fresh figs available and incorporate this sweet fruit into your cooking and baking as much as you can. Different varieties of figs are in season as early as mid-June and can hang around until October, if we’re lucky. Some popular varieties are Black Mission and Brown Turkey, which have a purple to black skin; Sierra, which is creamy yellow in color; and Tiger, which is light yellow with dark green stripes and a bright purple-red interior. Fresh figs can be stored at room temperature in a single layer for several days or refrigerated for two to three days, but making our Preserved Figs (page 20) lets you enjoy them for weeks to come. Spiced Fig-Ginger Cocktail MAKES 1…

There’s no doubt this thriving city is a favorite Southern destination. Nashville is known and loved worldwide for its all-encompassing contributions to the music industry, but its impressive sights and culinary scene are also to thank for putting this booming Middle Tennessee town on the map. The Music City has a storied past and an exciting future, and there’s no better place to start experiencing it for yourself than downtown. From smaller shows at the historic Ryman Auditorium to tours stopping at the Bridgestone Arena, you’re never out of earshot of some sweet sounds. Honky Tonk Highway, on Lower Broadway, is one of the city’s most iconic locales, and from 10:00 a.m. until 3:00 a.m., you’ll hear a cacophony of sounds spilling out onto the street. Live performances fill restaurants…

Greens and Beans Gnocchi MAKES 4 SERVINGS Pan drippings and crispy pieces of bacon bring a one-two punch of savory flavor to this skillet pasta. ½ pound bacon, chopped1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced3 cloves garlic, minced1½ cups low-sodium chicken broth½ teaspoon kosher salt¼ teaspoon ground black pepper1 (16-ounce) package potato gnocchi1 (15.5-ounce) can kidney beans, rinsed and drained3 cups chopped fresh kale2 tablespoons chopped oreganoShaved pecorino cheese, to serveGarnish: fresh oregano 1. In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until crisp, about 15 minutes. Remove bacon using a slotted spoon, and let drain on paper towels, reserving drippings in skillet. 2. Add onion to skillet; cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Increase heat to medium-high. Add broth, salt, and…

WHEN WE ARE CHILDREN, our world is small. While growing up, it’s easy to assume everyone eats the same things as you. I remember telling friends in school about persimmon pudding. Very few of them knew of persimmons, let alone this pudding as a dessert. As I have moved around and lived in different places, I gradually met folks that knew all about persimmon pudding. Their stories consistently involved an old-timer, a grandmother, a man down the street that had a persimmon tree in his yard, or growing up in a community that celebrated the fruit and all the things you can make with it. My story is not so different. Many of my childhood memories belong in Saxapahaw, North Carolina. I remember a small, yet prosperous garden with hand-me-down…

1 CULTURED GURU WILD FERMENTED SAUERKRAUT Is there a more iconic combo than kraut and afresh-from-the-grill hot dog? Baton Rouge-based Cultured Guru certainly doesn’t think so. They fill each jar of their signature sauerkraut with only the highest quality cabbage from local Louisiana growers and keep things light and fresh through a simple process of wild fermentation. All it takes is a spoonful or two to make sure your bratwursts and burgers are packed with flavor that’s anything but basic. $9.98; cultured.guru 2 DELTA PIG BARBEQUE SAUCE There’s nothing better than the sweet heat from a rich and tangy barbecue sauce, and this Mississippi Delta-made brand is our go-to these days. Each bite into the vinegar-based goodness gives you a taste of barbecue bliss. Grab a bottle and pour a…

Supreme Pizza MAKES 1 (12- TO 14-INCH) PIZZA One of the many reasons we love this craveable dish is its versatility. Get creative with your toppings, and make this family favorite all your own. 1 (16-ounce) deli pizza dough1 tablespoon olive oil½ cup pizza sauce1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese, divided1 cup crumbled cooked Italian sausage½ cup thinly sliced yellow onion½ cup chopped green bell pepper¼ cup pepperoni slices¼ cup sliced black olives¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano¼ teaspoon ground black pepperGarnish: chopped fresh oregano, crushed red pepper 1. Preheat oven to 450°. Place a large enamel-coated cast-iron skillet or braiser in the bottom third of oven to preheat. 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 12-inch circle. Fold dough over a rolling pin, and…

Shelling beans are delicious fresh, but they are often found dried in grocery stores. We reach for a bag of Camellia Brand dried beans or peas when fresh isn't available. All of these recipes can be made with cooked dried beans by following our Perfect Dutch Oven Beans recipe. Drain off any liquid and remove seasoning meat or herbs before using. Find the recipe on tasteofthesouthmagazine.com. Classic Pot of Beans MAKES ABOUT 5½ CUPS Learning to make a tried-and-true pot of beans or peas is a rite of passage in the South, and after a bite, you’ll see why. 3 tablespoons unsalted butter1 cup diced yellow onion8 ounces seasoning meat (ham hock, bacon, or sausage)2 teaspoons minced garlic2 pounds fresh shelled beans or peas (such as lima beans, black-eyed peas,…

Chicken and Dumplings MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS This tried-and-true dish is a Southern staple for a reason. STEW 4 tablespoons canola oil, divided1 (3-pound) whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces5 large carrots, peeled and diced4 stalks celery, diced1 large onion, diced1 large leek, halved lengthwise and sliced into ½-inch pieces(white and light green parts only)¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons all- purpose flour5 cloves garlic, minced2 quarts water2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons chicken bouillon paste2 dried bay leaves1 teaspoon ground black pepper¼ cup chopped fresh parsley DUMPLINGS 2 cups self-rising flour1 teaspoon kosher salt3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed½ cup whole milk 1. For stew: In a large Dutch oven, heat 3 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add chicken pieces; cook until browned, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Remove…

THERE’S A SPECIAL PLACE in all our hearts for gas station food. And if you’re from the South, you know that the food you get at the corner store can be just as satisfying as what you can whip up yourself. Everyone has a favorite store that stands out above the rest. These days, new options are constantly popping up along our busy streets and highways, but some beloved stops have been around for decades. After searching for the best of the best surprisingly good gas station eats, we think we’ve finally narrowed it down to a solid top 11. See if your favorite made the list. 1 THE MARKET | Charlottesville, Virginia For nearly 30 years, The Market has been a place where the Charlottesville community and its guests…

DESSERTS Colonel Franklin’s Peanut Brittle 72 Ocracoke Island Fig Cake 21 Persimmon Pudding 84 Sweet Tea Pie 31 DRINKS Spiced Fig-Ginger Cocktail 17 Watermelon Sweet Tea 31 MAINS Barbecue Pork and Rice 58 Black-Eyed Pea Coconut Curry 48 Cajun Shrimp Alfredo 62 Chicken and Dumplings 74 Chicken-Fried Steak and Sweet Tea Gravy 32 Crab and Spinach Noodle Casserole 54 Creamy Lemon Chicken Pasta 63 Fig, Bacon, and Sage Ravioli 20 Figgy Barbecue Pulled Pork 17 Garlic Shrimp and Grits 82 Greens and Beans Gnocchi 61 Grillades & Grits 80 Grilled Eggplant and Tomato Casserole 58 Grits-Crusted Catfish 77 Lima Bean Burgers 48 Mushroom and Sausage Mac and Cheese 57 Pimiento Cheese Grits Bowls 82 Sausage and Greens with Cheese Grits 81 Summer Pasta Primavera 64 Supreme Pizza 23 Sweet Potato…