Innholdsfortegnelse for March/April 2020 i Taste of the South

FIESTA | San Antonio, Texas | April 16–26, 2020 In 1891, a group of people paraded in central San Antonio to remember the momentous battles of the Alamo and San Jacinto. Over the past 120 years since, Fiesta has become one of Texas’ signature events, with more than 2.5 million people from around the world making their way to San Antonio each April to join in on the celebration of the city’s rich and diverse history. fiestasanantonio.org LA COSECHA | Washington, D.C. This massive new marketplace opened up in the acclaimed Union District Market, and it’s committed to celebrating and sharing Latin American culture in the South. Inside, you’ll find pop-up restaurants with menus representing all types of Hispanic cuisine, as well as a few vendors offering wines, clothing, and…

SOME CLAIM THE CHEESE STRAW is a descendant of the British biscuit, while others theorize the addictive cheesy bites were discovered when a frugal baker mixed cheese into leftover biscuit dough, rolling long lean strips and baking them alongside biscuits. But however the crunchy straws became part of our Southern palate, we’re just glad they’re here to stay. Cheese straws can be enjoyed alongside everything from a plate of chicken salad to a batch of spirited cocktails, and just like so many Southern essentials, there are countless ways to make them. Classic cheese straws are rich and savory, made with sharp Cheddar cheese combined with hints of red pepper and paprika for a kick of heat and flavor. Most people pipe them into long, crinkly ribbons with the help of…

IF YOU GREW UP ANYTIME BEFORE THE 1970s, you likely remember seeing intricate rings and towers of jewel-toned gelatin molds at family or church gatherings and looking at them with wide-eyed wonder. These impressive molds were originally served as a statement of status through the 1800s, as gelatin was rendered from scratch in a labor-intensive process. The advent of instant powdered gelatins at the turn of the 20th century brought the dish of the elite into the home of the average citizen. It transformed into a way to extend leftovers during the Great Depression and later became a convenience product for working wives post-World War II to make impressive and satisfying suppers in a short amount of time. As they went out of fashion throughout parts of the country in…

Since moving to New Orleans, Louisiana, from Florida in the late 1990s, Chef Kristen Essig has worked tirelessly to forge deep connections with not only the city but also its rich and diverse restaurant culture. Her passion for Southern cuisine has brought about unique opportunities to join forces with other local stars, like her partner in business and life, Michael Stoltzfus, fellow owner of Coquette on Magazine Street. In partnership with Michael, she’s finally opened the doors to their highly anticipated new concept in the Lower Garden District, Thalia. Tell us a little bit about how you and Michael started working together. That’s actually more of our love story, if I’m honest. He had opened Coquette, and I was the executive chef for a large restaurant group in town. We…

Pineapple-Raspberry Upside-Down Cake MAKES 1 (13X9-INCH) CAKE Canned pineapple shines in this moist cake laden with fresh berries. ⅓ cup unsalted butter, melted1¼ cups firmly packed light brown sugar, divided12 pineapple slices12 whole raspberries¾ cup unsalted butter, softened1 cup granulated sugar3 large eggs1 tablespoon vanilla extract2¼ cups all-purpose flour2½ teaspoons baking powder¾ teaspoon kosher salt¾ cup whole milk1 cup halved raspberries 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray the sides of a 13x9-inch metal baking pan with baking spray with flour. 2. In a small bowl, stir together melted butter and ¾ cup brown sugar. Spread evenly into bottom of prepared pan. Arrange pineapple slices in a single layer over butter mixture. Place a whole raspberry in the center of each pineapple slice and mash down slightly to fill hole. 3.…

Classic Deviled Eggs MAKES 12 Fresh dill adds a savory layer of flavor to this otherwise classic recipe. 6 large eggs⅓ cup mayonnaise1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill2 teaspoons Dijon mustard½ teaspoon onion powder¼ teaspoon kosher salt¼ teaspoon ground black pepper⅛ teaspoon smoked paprikaGarnish: finely chopped fresh dill, smoked paprika 1. Fill a large bowl with ice water. 2. In a large saucepan, bring eggs and cold water to cover by 1 inch to a boil over medium-high heat. Immediately remove from heat. Cover and let stand for 9 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, gently transfer eggs to prepared ice bath; let stand until cool enough to handle, about 5 minutes. 3. In a 16-ounce Mason jar, pour cold water to a depth of 1 inch. Add 2 to 3…

What do you get when you combine cooking demonstrations, a culinary competition, local food trucks, artisan makers, and live entertainment? The inaugural Southern Cast Iron Cook-Off™, held over two days in Louisiana last fall. Nearly 2,000 attendees from 17 states ventured to the city of Lake Charles, Louisiana, the first weekend of November for a fun-filled, family-friendly weekend devoted to all things cast iron. From the moment the doors opened on Friday, November 1, people were able to immerse themselves in the world of cast iron. The exhibit area, anchored on one end by a well-stocked General Store, was the perfect spot to pick up a weekend souvenir. From must-have cast-iron cookware from makers including Lodge, Milo, American Skillet Company, and Carolina Cooker, as well as useful cast iron cleaning…

WITH BOOMING BUSINESSES emerging daily and award-winning restaurants filling the downtown cityscape, Birmingham, Alabama, is a well-loved Southern city. But, take a journey back about 150 years ago, and life looked a bit different. From its founding in 1871 through the 1960s, Birmingham was a leading industrial city. Iron and steel production and the railway industry built the city from dust to distinction, attracting a multitude of people with jobs in factories and mines. By 1880, African Americans made up 80 percent of Birmingham’s industrial force, while others were immigrants who came to the area in search of prosperity. The jobs, however, were extremely dangerous and pay was low, which meant these workers were far from prosperous. One of the immigrant populations who arrived in the Magic City during the…

Herbed Lamb and Spring Vegetables MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS A tangy fresh mint dressing brightens up tender, juicy lamb. 1 (4-pound) boneless lamb shoulder, trussed1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided1½ teaspoons ground black pepper, divided½ pound bacon, chopped1 large yellow onion, roughly chopped6 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces5 stalks celery, cut into 1-inch pieces3 leeks, sliced lengthwise and chopped3 tablespoons canola oil2 cups water2 teaspoons beef bouillon paste2 pounds red potatoes, quartered Lemon-Mint Dressing (recipe follows) 1. Sprinkle lamb with 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. 2. In a large skillet, cook bacon over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until crispy and browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove bacon from skillet and let drain on paper towels; reserve drippings in skillet. 3. To skillet, add onion. Cook until…

Classic Crawfish Boil MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS (photo on page 43) A homemade seasoning packet takes this classic Cajun meal to a new level. 10 pounds live crawfish2½ cups kosher salt, dividedSeasoning Packet (recipe follows)4 lemons, halved4 pounds baby red potatoes2 pounds corn on the cob, shucked and halved crosswise6 heads garlic, halved crosswise4 pounds andouille sausage, cut into thirdsTrinity Compound Butter (recipe follows), lemon wedges, and Cajun seasoning, to serve 1. In a large bucket or cooler, place live crawfish, 1 cup salt, and enough water to cover by 2 inches. Let stand for 30 minutes, discarding any crawfish that float to the top. (This indicates the crawfish are dead.) Rinse crawfish thoroughly with cold water. 2. In a large stockpot with strainer insert, add Seasoning Packet and remaining 1½…

Meherwan Irani still remembers the first time he tried Indian food in America. A broke graduate student, he ventured to a local Indian buffet in Columbia, South Carolina, for what he soon found to be a grand disappointment. Was this what Americans thought of Indian food—strip mall lunch buffets? The food tasted bad, and most of the dishes weren’t even meals they actually ate where he grew up. Nearly every town had that same kind of spot: the strip mall locale, the waiters donned in cliché maroon jackets, and white tablecloth-topped tables with green polyester napkins. And the food—extensive buffets filled with 30 indistinguishable dishes that were both gloppy and oily, and always infused with curry. “It was North Indian banquet food that you don’t really eat at home, and…