Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2019 i Taste of the South

Matthew McClure is the award-winning executive chef behind The Hive, one of Bentonville’s premier restaurants for refined country cuisine. He is also one of Arkansas’ chefs kick-starting a revival of “high South” cuisine, a style that originated in the northwestern part of the state. What was once a dying art is seeing a resurgence that Matthew believes is long overdue. Can you tell us a little more about what high South cuisine is? It all goes back to the subsistence farmers who have dotted the Ozark Plateau region for generations. They’ve grown and collected our area’s unique crops, like Arkansas Black apples and morel mushrooms, and combined those flavors with traditional Southern dishes in ways you can only find here. How would you describe Arkansas’ role in the Southern food…

ARTIGUE'S ABITA MARKET Abita Springs, Louisiana @artigues_abita_market Lunch plates have long been a tradition down South, but Artigue’s takes it to the next level with their crawfish- and boudin-stuffed pork chops wrapped in bacon and served with two hearty sides. That’s what we call a good lunch. THE MANSHIP WOOD FIRED KITCHEN Jackson, Mississippi @themanshipjxn Breakfast, lunch, or dinner, juicy shrimp over creamy grits is one of our favorites any time of day. All we need is a slice of golden-brown bread to soak up all those delicious juices, and we’d be in heaven. BE SURE TO POST WITH #tasteofthesouth ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR A CHANCE TO HAVE YOUR TASTIEST PHOTOS FEATURED.…

A FLORIDA NATIVE WITH A LOVE FOR ART, Lauren Ytterbom has followed her creative passions from Italy to New York to Sweden and all the way back to the Sunshine State. For as long as she can remember, Lauren’s life has been interwoven with art—creative writing, dance, drawing, music, painting, film. She even attended a fine arts magnet high school in Jacksonville, Florida, and studied the fine arts at Flagler College in her future home of St. Augustine, Florida. Years down the road, while she was studying in New York City and working as a creative arts therapist, Lauren finally found the medium that would become her calling. “My interest in ceramics blossomed while I was getting my master’s degree at NYU in 2012,” she recalls. “I fell in love…

Biscuits are the first food I remember making as a child. From an early age, I had a love for tender, flaky biscuits, but the thought of pairing them with gravy didn’t come until later in life. Thankfully, one of my wife’s weekend specialties is warm biscuits topped with spicy sausage gravy. We eat it year-round, but even more so once the summer’s heat begins to fade. With all the delicious riffs on biscuits and gravy in this issue, I will certainly be mixing a few of those into our normal repertoire. While I’m always a sucker for a classic buttermilk biscuit (page 59), I can’t wait to bake up a few batches of Sweet Potato Angel Biscuits and the super-simple Cornmeal Cathead Biscuits (both on page 60). These twists…

1 CAPTAIN RODNEY'S BOATSWAIN'S BREW COFFEE BARBECUE SAUCE This rich and tangy Tennessee-made sauce combines roasted coffee and a hint of balsamic vinegar to strike the perfect balance between bold and sweet. So if you can’t make it to one of our favorite barbecue spots across the South (we list 10 of them starting on page 89), grab a bottle and make your own at home. The only problem you’ll face is keeping yourself from using it all too quickly. $12.99; bellbucklecompanystore.com 2 SRSLY CHOCOLATE TEXAS MESQUITE BAR Local Austin-area ingredients make their way into each bar of this Texas company’s chocolate. But the base of this particular bar isn’t just any everyday white chocolate. This is SRSLY’s “Dirty White Chocolate,” made with unfiltered cacao butter and flavored with mesquite…

PERSIMMON TIPS There are two common types of persimmons: Fuyu (pictured left) and Hachiya. Fuyu persimmons are smaller and squattier in shape (similar to a tomato), while Hachiya persimmons are shaped more like an acorn. Both have a stem that looks like a flattened flower in the center and have a sweet flavor with notes of honey when ready to eat. The Hachiya variety needs to be very soft and wrinkled (they are very astringent otherwise), while Fuyu can be enjoyed while still a little bit firm. Persimmons are at their peak season from October through early February. When purchasing persimmons at your local market, look for a deep-orange skin. You can buy either variety when firm, but keep in mind that Hachiya fruits will need to continue to ripen…

WHEN THE OCTOBER TEMPERATURES START TO DROP, escape to the storied streets of St. Augustine, Florida. It may be the oldest city in the United States, but with its exciting history of explorers, invasions, and pirate tales plus its booming food and entertainment scene, this Spanish-influenced town is bursting with life and energy. FUEL THE FIRST DAY of your St. Augustine adventure with a splash of caffeine from The Kookaburra Coffee. With five locations of this Australian-influenced coffee joint spread out around the city, you’re never far from an ethically sourced cup of joe. Grab a hot drink—we recommend the chocolate-coconut-flavored Mocha Nut or their superb Flat White—and a savory Brekkie Pie for a downright delicious on-the-go breakfast. If you’re craving something a little heartier, visit the Lincolnville Historic District…

Chicken Poppy Seed and Rice Casserole MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS We skipped the canned soup base and amped up the flavor of this comfort food classic with thyme, Dijon mustard, and lemon zest. Trust us, it’s more than worth the extra effort. ¾ cup unsalted butter 1¼ cups chopped red onion 4 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup all-purpose flour 3 cups low-sodium chicken broth, room temperature 1½ (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened 1½ tablespoons poppy seeds 1½ tablespoons chopped fresh thyme 1½ tablespoons Dijon mustard 2¼ teaspoons kosher salt 1½ teaspoons packed lemon zest ¾ teaspoon ground black pepper 4½ cups shredded cooked chicken 4½ cups cooked long-grain white rice 3 cups small broccoli florets 2 cups crushed buttery round crackers 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1. Spray a…

Homemade Broth MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS We leave the salt out of this basic broth so you have more flavor control when adding it to other recipes. 4 pounds raw chicken wings or chopped vegetables 2 quarts cold water 2 medium yellow onions, quartered 2 medium carrots, roughly chopped 1 stalk celery, roughly chopped 10 sprigs fresh herbs (such as chives, parsley, rosemary, and thyme) ½ lemon 2 bay leaves 1 tablespoon black peppercorns 1. In a 6-quart slow cooker, combine all ingredients. Cover and cook on high for 6 to 8 hours. Add additional water to keep solids submerged, if needed. 2. Place a fine-mesh strainer over a large bowl; strain broth. Discard solids. Portion stock into freezer-safe containers, leaving 2 inches of head space. (Broth will expand once…

Chocolate Bourbon Pie MAKES 1 (9-INCH) PIE Classic chess pie gets a double dose of chocolaty goodness in this tempting treat. Chocolate Pie Dough (recipe follows) 1½ cups sugar 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 2/3 cup heavy whipping cream 3 large eggs ¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder 2 tablespoons bourbon 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Garnish: unsweetened cocoa powder 1. Preheat oven to 375°. 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll Chocolate Pie Dough into a 12-inch circle. Transfer to a 9-inch pie plate, pressing into bottom and up sides. Fold edges under, and crimp as desired. Freeze for 15 minutes. 3. Top dough with a piece of parchment paper, letting ends extend over edges of plate. Add pie weights. 4. Bake for 15 minutes. Carefully remove…

WHEN VISITING NASHVILLE, EXPERIENCING HOT CHICKEN IS A MUST. My first impression of the iconic Nashville hot chicken is a memory I will never forget as it was filled with both laughter and tears, and led me to create one of the go-to dishes at my own restaurant—Hot Chicken Pakoras. My soon-to-be business partner and I were in Nashville scouting the cityscape and toying with the idea of opening a restaurant in this growing city. As you might imagine, our visit included indulging at different restaurants. In search of the ultimate hot chicken experience, we landed at Hattie B’s. As we entered the restaurant, my business partner scoffed at the idea of hot chicken in the South. Being from India, he could handle hot and was sure Nashville hot wouldn’t…

Soup Beans and Herb-Pecan Cornbread My wife, who grew up in West Virginia, introduced me to this classic Appalachian dish, and now it’s one of my favorite things to cook once the weather gets chillier. Tomato-Shrimp Gravy and Cornmeal Cathead Biscuits Oxford, Mississippi, Chef John Currence serves a similar version of this dish at his Big Bad Breakfast restaurants, though his calls for grits instead of biscuits. Fennel Chicken and Dumplings Parsnips and fennel jazz up this traditional chicken and dumplings. This version can be made ahead and frozen for an easy weeknight meal. Chocolate Mayonnaise Cake There are basically two types of people when it comes to chocolate mayonnaise cakes: those who love them, and those who haven’t tried them yet.…

BENNE ON EAGLE Asheville, North Carolina The soul food traditions of one of Asheville's historic neighborhoods are being kept alive in the kitchen at Benne on Eagle. The menu represents the area’s intersection of African American and Appalachian roots translated into modern dishes like Potlikker Braised Chicken Wings, Collard Green and Fennel Salad, Buttermilk-Cornbread Soup, and golden Crispy Quail. Come experience the life and soul of Asheville, and enjoy a great meal while you’re at it. benneoneagle.com 24 HOT CHICKEN & WAFFLE BAR Plano, Texas Spicy food lovers, take note. This Texas joint is giving you five levels of spicy Nashville hot chicken to add an extra kick to your next plate of chicken and waffles. Just make sure to carefully consider your heat level of choice before ordering—the hottest,…

CHOOSE THE RIGHT DISH If you’re making a casserole as a housewarming gift, buy a pretty casserole dish and let the recipient keep it to use in their new home. For easy and affordable gifting, a disposable aluminum pan works great and can easily be found in most grocery stores. WRAP IT While we would be happy receiving a homemade casserole simply wrapped in plastic wrap, it’s fun and festive to jazz it up by tying a ribbon or twine around the pan. For more formal wrapping, slip it into a plastic gift bag and tie it with a bow; or wrap it in foil, tie it with a ribbon, and tuck fresh herbs into the knot. INCLUDE INSTRUCTIONS Don’t forget to include instructions for reheating the casserole. (These can…

SINGLE-ORIGIN CHOCOLATE BARS Chocolate makers are popping up all over the South, and we are particularly keen on the rise of single-origin bars. In recipes calling for semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, use a 60–75% cocoa bar. condorchocolates.com | frenchbroadchocolates.com COCOA POWDER High-quality cocoa powder can make a huge difference in the final flavor of baked goods, so it's worth a splurge. kyyachocolate.com COCOA NIBS These tiny pieces of pure, toasted cocoa beans offer fruity, slightly bitter bites of chocolate flavor to cookies, brownies, and truffles. viderichocolatefactory.com DRINKING CHOCOLATE A mix of ground chocolate, sugar, and spices, drinking chocolates bring rich flavor in a ready-to-go mix. Just add hot milk! xocolatlchocolate.com…

BARBECUE IS ONE OF THE SOUTH’S MOST BELOVED ART FORMS. The pitmaster is the artist, smoke is the paintbrush, and meat is the masterpiece. We may disagree on our favorite styles and flavors depending on the state or region from which we hail, but at least we can all agree on our love for its tender, sticky, saucy, or dry-rubbed goodness—it’s in our blood. So from old-school classics to up-and-coming hot spots, here’s a few joints doing barbecue right. 1 CENTRAL BBQ Memphis, Tennessee One-of-a-kind smoking methods, friendly faces, and tender meat are the heart and soul at Central BBQ—and only the best cuts are good enough for their guests. Maybe that’s why they’ve had to expand, opening four different locations in the same city just to keep up with…