Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2019 i Taste of the South

MAKES ABOUT 12 SERVINGS 4 cups all-purpose flour 5 tablespoons instant espresso powder 2 tablespoons pumpkin pie spice 3½ teaspoons baking powder 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 3 cups canned pumpkin 1½ cups firmly packed light brown sugar 1½ cups granulated sugar 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1 cup whole milk 5 large eggs, room temperature 1 tablespoon vanilla extract Sweetened whipped cream, to serve Garnish: confectioners’ sugar, pumpkin pie spice 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a (16-cup) Carolina Cooker Fluted Cast Iron Cake Pan with baking spray with flour. 2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, espresso powder, pumpkin pie spice, baking powder, and salt. In another large bowl, whisk together pumpkin, brown sugar, granulated sugar, melted butter, milk, eggs, and vanilla. Make a well…

After leaving his home in Mexico and immigrating to Texas, Chef Hugo Ortega knew he wanted to make a name for himself in the Southern food scene. The acclaimed restaurateur worked his way up from the very bottom and now owns four of Houston’s hot spots: Backstreet Café, Hugo’s, Caracol, and Xochi. The 2017 James Beard Foundation Best Chef: Southwest award winner shared his story in hopes of inspiring other young chefs to strive for success in and out of the kitchen. The road to your current success was a long one. What inspired you to keep going? When I came from Oaxaca in the 1980s, Houston was a very different place. I worked as a dishwasher and busboy for years to make ends meet, but it was difficult to…

SOUTHERN SOUL BARBECUE St. Simons Island, Georgia @southernsoulbbq You won’t have to worry about sides and starters when you pull up a seat at this refurbished seaside filling station—this crispy fried flounder sandwich is a meal all on its own. BLACK BEAR BREAD CO. Grayton Beach, Florida @blackbearbreadco Too much of a good thing doesn't apply when you’re talking about these sweet, decadent cinnamon rolls, right? Either way, these fresh-from-the-oven classics look like breakfast at its finest. BE SURE TO POST WITH #tasteofthesouth ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR A CHANCE TO HAVE YOUR TASTIEST PHOTOS FEATURED.…

SAVANNAH IS ONE OF THE FEW SPECIAL PLACES around the South that brings people together in new and interesting ways. The whimsical shops that make up the world of Chocolat by Adam Turoni are one of the serendipitous things that could only have occured there. At a dinner party, a young chocolatier named Adam happened to meet legendary Savannah interior designer Alexandra Trujillo de Taylor, and in 2012 they opened The Dining Room on West Broughton Street in the Historic District. “I wanted our store to be its own little universe, like Marie Antoinette meets Alice in Wonderland.” The shop—with a soaring ceiling, chandeliers, and green grass-like flooring—invites customers into a delicious, magical world. From the tall shelves to the broad French banquet table and china cabinet, delightful treats abound.…

MANY COLLEGE TOWNS ACROSS THE SOUTH have developed reputations for their delicious and diverse food scenes. Considering the thousands of students, families, alumni, football enthusiasts, and locals these restaurants serve on any given day this time of year, their budding popularity is no surprise. We searched far and wide for the best and most beloved among these establishments in some of the South’s busiest college towns. So whether you support your alma mater or the local school, let this be your guide to must-try eats for gameday weekends and beyond. 1 THE CHEESE SHOP Williamsburg, Virginia Sitting just across from the historic William & Mary campus in Colonial Williamsburg, this gourmet deli has serviced the town for more than 45 years. With several flavorful sandwiches to choose from, breads and…

I love experiencing the flavors and food cultures throughout the South. From the tangy pork barbecue I ate in Virginia during college to the bourgeoning fine dining scene in Birmingham, Alabama, and Steve McHugh’s back-to-nature approach at Cured in San Antonio, Texas, there’s more incredible eating to be done in the South than I could do in a lifetime. Ten lifetimes, maybe. This issue might raise some of the same questions for you as it has for me: Will it be a spicy shrimp boil or a quick and satisfying skillet of Browned Butter-Pecan Catfish? (You’ll find recipes for both on pages 65 and 25, respectively.) Will I make my family’s time-tested recipe for biscuits or prepare a double-batch of the foolproof buttermilk biscuits from this issue’s Cooking Class (on…

OKRA FACTS + TIPS Okra is best when harvested young, so the pods are small and tender. Raw, it’s an excellent addition to veggie trays. Okra seeds were once dried, toasted, and ground to be used as a coffee substitute in times when coffee beans were scarce. The seeds are now pressed to make beauty and cooking oils. As an ancient crop, many cultures have a different name for okra. Some believe the word originated from Nigerian Igbo while others site its origin in Swahili. Okra was first introduced to America by African slaves. Slaves from Angola called okra “ki ngombo,” which became “gumbo,” and is still used in reference to Louisiana-style stews. Sautéed Okra and Pickled Red Onion MAKES 4 SERVINGS Pickled onions do double duty, adding bright pops…

Brown Sugar-Maple Apples and Sprouts MAKES 4 SERVINGS Honeycrisp apples add a sweet and juicy bite to this flavorful side dish. Pair it with Mustard Glazed Pork Chops on page 85 for a pleasing fall dinner. 4 slices thick-cut bacon, chopped 1 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 2½ cups (¼-inch-thick) sliced Honeycrisp apples (about 1 medium apple) 3 tablespoons firmly packed dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons pure maple syrup 4 teaspoons apple cider vinegar 1¾ teaspoons kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1. In a 12-inch enamel-coated cast-iron skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until crisp. Remove bacon using a slotted spoon, and let drain on paper towels, reserving 2 tablespoons drippings in skillet. 2. Add Brussels sprouts and apples to skillet; cook, stirring occasionally, until Brussels sprouts…

Savannah Food & Wine Festival With a curated selection of top pitmasters, notable local and regional chefs, whisky distillers, and more, this festival will surprise and delight food lovers of all stripes from November 4–10. Shuga Girl This new coffee shop near Ellis Square not only offers freshly-pulled espresso and baked goods by Auspicious Baking Co., but craft cocktails and daiquiris as well. The Grey Market Last year, the award-winning team at The Grey opened a conveniently located neighborhood market with counter service that’ll fill your belly. Don't miss the daily chicken dinner. Bull Street Taco It’s a short walk from the south end of Forsyth Park to treat yourself. This shop has the traditional flavors as well as a few unexpected combos. Check out even more must-visit spots in…

CARPENTERS HALL | Austin, Texas Recently opened inside one of Austin’s newest boutique hotels, this bright and cozy restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch with tasty new twists on Southern favorites like the Fried Egg Biscuit with spicy sausage and syrup or the melty Grilled Pimento Cheese. Every dish is as comforting as the space they’re served in, but remember to reserve a table ahead of time to beat the hungry crowds. carpenterhotel.com THE HOLLER Bentonville, Arkansas There’s something for everyone to enjoy at this homey local hangout. From juicy, double-stacked burgers and Holler Style Fries to loaded nachos and salads, you’re sure to leave satisfied. And who said you can’t have a little fun while you’re there? Try your hand at one of the full-size shuffleboard courts…

Browned Butter-Pecan Catfish with Herbed Potatoes MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS This method of adding fat and water together when cooking the potatoes creates a fluffy inside with a perfectly browned outside. 1 pound assorted baby potatoes, halved ¾ cup unsalted butter, softened and divided 3¾ teaspoons kosher salt, divided 1¾ cups water 4 cloves garlic, smashed ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley, divided 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, divided 1¼ teaspoons Cajun seasoning*, divided 2 (4½- to 5½-ounce) catfish fillets 1 teaspoon sugar 1/3 cup all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons vegetable oil ¼ cup coarsely chopped pecans 1½ teaspoons fresh lemon juice 1. In a 12-inch skillet, combine potatoes, ¼ cup butter, and 2 teaspoons salt. Add 1¾ cups water, or enough water to just barely cover…

LIBBIE SUMMERS A Food Inspired Life HER PICK: “Hand-cut fries loaded with smoked pork barbecue, red onion, cheese, and sauce at Sandfly BBQ. It’s my Savannah guilty pleasure.” JESSE BLANCO Food Writer and TV Show Host HIS PICK: “The tomato soup at SOHO South Cafe is a local legend. The recipe was included in the sale price of the building.” MASHAMA BAILEY Executive Chef, The Grey HER PICK: “Don't leave Savannah without trying the fried chicken at Mrs. Wilkes!”…

IN THE 19TH CENTURY, millions of immigrants came to America, enticed by fertile land and political and religious freedoms. With growing populations in European countries and failed farming elsewhere, the idea of wide-open plains and free-will living was enough to persuade them to leave their homes for a foreign land. But as history proves, starting a new life in a new place is often anything but easy. Faced with an unfamiliar climate and resources, these strangers were forced to adapt and connect to their new home, while holding strong to the traditions that they’d always known. One of the ways they did so was through food. Crack open a link of boudin in Louisiana, peel back the shuck of a Mississippi Delta hot tamale, bite into the crispness of Appalachian…

I AM IN AWE OF SAN ANTONIO—its flavors, its spirit, and its history. It’s my adopted city, not my actual hometown, and maybe that’s why I’ve immersed myself in learning its local foodways with the zeal of a convert. Having grown up on a farm, food sources have always been a natural interest for me; San Antonio and the outer region is a treasure trove. Research into the indigenous foods of central Texas has led me all the way back to native practices, some of which, in turn, have informed the ongoing evolution of my menu at Cured. OK—some more than others. Cactus paddles? Absolutely. Snakes? Not so much. True, before the Spanish introduced pork to the local diet some 300 years ago, snakes were a key source of protein…