Innholdsfortegnelse for May/June 2019 i Taste of the South

When we are working on a new issue of Taste of the South, we try not only to give you the classic Southern dishes you would expect—the nostalgic banana puddings, comforting macaroni and cheeses, and crispy, crunchy fried chicken—we try to give you a sense of what is going on in Southern food today. Sometimes we look to the past for forgotten recipes and ingredients, and other times we turn to the region’s brightest chefs, because Southern food has always been a work in progress, constantly influenced by local traditions and regional tastes. Dishes that many of us recognize as Southern, like a cake made with Coca-Cola or even something as ever-present as shrimp and grits, would not likely have seemed so to our grandparents (or especially our great-grandparents, if…

When chef Julia Sullivan returned to her hometown, she knew one thing for certain: she was going to open her own restaurant. Now the proud co-owner of Henrietta Red, a semi-finalist for Best New Restaurant at last year’s annual James Beard Foundation Awards, Julia and her team strive to create an unforgettable dining experience by putting an emphasis on straightforward recipes and fresh, locally sourced ingredients. When asked how she continues to shine in the ever-growing Nashville food scene, this is what she had to say. What do you think about the food boom Nashville has experienced in the last few years? I think sometimes things work and sometimes they don’t, and that’s part of this city’s magic to me. Our restaurant culture is evolving to cater toward a broader…

DRIFT FISH HOUSE & OYSTER BAR Marietta, Georgia Warmer weather means one thing in the South: fresh seafood. From the crispy fried shrimp and cole slaw to the clam chowder and cocktail sauce, this spread has all it takes to get our mouths watering. @driftoysterbar HATTIE B’S HOT CHICKEN Locations around the South This tender, juicy, oh-so-spicy fried chicken has shown us a whole new world of heat. We might even need a fresh set of taste buds to recover from our trip to the spicier side of the spectrum! @hattiebs BE SURE TO POST WITH #tasteofthesouth ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR A CHANCE TO HAVE YOUR TASTIEST PHOTOS FEATURED.…

In order for an onion to be called a Vidalia, it must be grown in a particular region of Georgia. If you find onions labeled as Vidalia but they aren’t from Georgia, they’re not the real thing. Harvesting typically begins in April with the season running as late as September. Unlike many big agricultural products these days, Vidalia onions are still planted and harvested by hand. Most onions do not store well in the fridge. Vidalias are an exception; wrap them individually in paper towels and store in the crisper drawer for 1 to 2 months. Do not store near potatoes, as they will cause the onions to spoil quickly.…

Grilled Steak and Green Tomatoes with Lemon-Herb Vinaigrette MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS Grilling green tomatoes brings out their savory flavors while keeping their classic tartness. This recipe can also be cooked in a cast-iron grill pan over medium-high heat with similar cooking times. 1 pound flank steak, trimmed 6 (½-inch-thick) slices green tomato 1 small red onion, cut into 6 wedges 1 teaspoon lemon zest ½ cup fresh lemon juice 1¼ teaspoons kosher salt, divided ¾ teaspoon ground black pepper, divided 1¼ cups olive oil ¼ cup chopped fresh mint ¼ cup chopped fresh basil ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley 2 teaspoons minced jalapeño 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Garnish: ground black pepper 1. Lightly score both sides of steak. Place steak, tomato slices, and onion…

LARRY GROCE Mountain Stage HIS PICK: “Swiftwater Cafe is a mainstay [for our post-show victory lunches]. Try the homemade soups, the Breakfast Dog (if you’re early), and their pepperoni rolls.” BETSY SOKOLOSKY Base Camp Printing Company HER PICK: “Best of Crete makes amazing, authentic Greek food. I love their hummus and baklava.” STEVEN KEITH food writer and critic for the Charleston Gazette-Mail HIS PICK: “There’s only one way to cap off a meal at Charleston’s elegant Bistro at the Barge: silky goat cheese ice cream topped with blackberry sauce.”…

Sautéed Green Beans with Toasted Benne Dressing MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS Drizzle leftover toasted benne dressing on salads or roasted potatoes. 6 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 tablespoons toasted benne seeds 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 2 teaspoons confectioners’ sugar 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed 2 cloves garlic, minced ¾ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 tablespoon water Garnish: toasted benne seeds 1. In the container of a blender, place mayonnaise, benne seeds, vinegar, confectioners’ sugar, and sesame oil; blend until smooth. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. 2. In a large saucepan, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add green beans in an even layer; cook for 3 minutes, without stirring. Reduce heat to medium. 3.…

GROWING UP IN DOTHAN, ALABAMA, food was always an important part of my life. My grandparents (my father’s parents) lived 35 miles south in Chipley, Florida, so I spent much of my childhood down on their farm helping my grandfather tend to cattle and bale hay, and my grandmother maintain her garden. They grew everything from red skin creamer potatoes and Silver Queen corn to satsumas and pears, and the list goes on. But the real treat was tasting the fruits of our labor when my grandmother would cook up the garden-fresh produce for supper. As parents often do, my grandparents passed their love of food down to my father, and though I wouldn’t discover it until years later, I was next in line. My father was a cardiologist who…

OVER THE LAST FIVE YEARS, I’ve had the time of my life building Smithey Ironware into what I believe is the next great American cast iron-maker. Before that journey, I was lucky to have revived or been gifted dozens of old skillets. They range from dusty Griswolds to a rusty Wapak that had been wasting away in the corner of a garage. And while I love the timelessness of these vintage skillets—their glassy surfaces, their elegant logos, the simple quality of their lines—I always shunned one design: the cornstick pan. These “stick pans,” as they were known, were molded to create an impression of an ear of corn whilst baking cornbread. The cynic in me found them impractical and a bit, well, corny—not at all suited to this tough cast…

Hercules, the Airport Dog Sharp-eyed passengers at Charleston’s Yeager Airport will notice Hercules, the airport’s border collie, running around the grounds keeping birds and other wildlife from interfering with flight traffic. Bluegrass Breakfast Burger Breakfast might be the most important meal, but brunch is pure fun. Generously topped with West Virginia-cured bacon, a local egg, and smoked Gouda, the Breakfast Burger at Bluegrass Kitchen shouldn’t be missed. Elk City Rambles Just across the Elk River, Elk City offers a distilled look at the creativity that’s bubbling up in Charleston. From craft coffee bars to a vinyl record shop, this neighborhood will have you hooked. Popcorn at Bridge Road Bistro I love how the folks in Charleston’s growing restaurant scene are embracing their local bounty. The popcorn, bacon, and flaky salt…

1 ANSON MILLS SEA ISLAND BENNE SEEDS Originally from Africa, benne seeds are most commonly mistaken for their relative, the sesame seed. Today, Anson Mills harvests them in Charleston, South Carolina, for their nutty and deep burnt-honey flavor. Sweet or savory, these seeds are perfect for classic and modern Southern recipes alike. $5.95/8 oz bag; ansonmills.com 2 TRUE MADE FOODS KETCHUP Everyone knows ketchup is the foundation of any truly perfect burger on a hot summer’s day, and this northern Virginia-based business has taken it to the next level. They’ve eliminated the artificial flavors from the classic condiment by naturally sweetening all their products with fresh vegetables. Your taste buds will rejoice at the pure tomato flavor. $18.95 for three bottles; truemadefoods.com 3 CHARLESTON GOURMET BURGER CO. MARINADE AND SAUCE…

Festivals & Markets Taste of Alpharetta  Voted a top 20 event by the Southeast Tourism Society in 2015, 2017, 2018, and 2019, the Taste of Alpharetta brings over 50,000 festivalgoers and food connoisseurs to the downtown streets each year. More than 50 area restaurants set up mini kitchens in the charming downtown for one night to showcase their tastiest dishes to the public. Nowhere else can you try scrumptious samples from so many locally owned eateries and chef-driven restaurants in one place at one time. It’s an event that the locals never miss! Grab a brew or a glass of vino to enjoy as you stroll through the streets from booth to booth. Local musical artists sing tunes on the main stage and have everyone dancing in the streets. An…

1 STEAK SANDWICH Mix 2 tablespoons mayonnaise with 1 tablespoon leftover vinaigrette. Smear on cut sides of a split sub roll. Add several slices of steak and vegetables and top with mozzarella; broil until cheese is melted. Finish with sliced bell pepper, and serve immediately. 2 RICE BOWL Top a bowl of cooked rice with leftover steak and vegetables, chopped cucumber, feta cheese, and pecans. Drizzle with remaining vinaigrette before serving.…

THE STORY BEHIND J.Q. DICKINSON SALT-WORKS DOESN’T REALLY BEGIN IN 2013, when Nancy Bruns and Lewis Payne started selling their crunchy finishing salt, and not even seven generations ago in 1813, when William Dickinson joined the Kanawha Valley salt rush by establishing his own saltworks operation. It goes back much further than that, at least 400 million years further. Long before West Virginia’s iconic tree-lined mountaintops and rushing rivers formed, this area of the world was home to an ancient saltwater sea. “Through continental shifts, the salt got trapped here and has been re-dissolved by a freshwater aquifer that runs beneath us like a salty river,” says Nancy. Her family was one of the pioneering groups that turned the valley into one of the largest salt-producing areas of the country,…

Pineapple Coconut Sheet Cake MAKES 1 (13X9-INCH) CAKE Packed with tropical flavor, this sheet cake tastes like summer. 1 cup unsalted butter, softened 1½ cups sugar 4 large eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon coconut extract 3 cups cake flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1¼ cups coconut milk ½ cup chopped fresh pineapple ½ cup sweetened flaked coconut Pineapple Coconut Frosting (recipe follows) Garnish: sweetened flaked coconut 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 13x9-inch baking dish with baking spray with flour. 2. In a large bowl, beat butter and sugar with a mixer at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat…

WHEN IT COMES TO FOOD, Southerners know just what they’re doing. That’s why—from Texas to Virginia—we host some of the country’s tastiest food festivals, many with histories spanning decades. After spending time taking them all in, it becomes clear why thousands of hungry guests return year after year. Get your fill of classic festival foods plus a few specialty treats at any of these 15 flavor-packed celebrations—and then go back for seconds. Go ahead, you deserve it. 1 THE NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL April 25–May 5, 2019 New Orleans, Louisiana The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival has become one of the most anticipated events of the year in the Crescent City. Now in its 50th year, this nearly two-week event gives you an excuse to enjoy the…

Vidalia Onion Jam MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS Use this jam as the base for a flatbread, whisk it into an omelet, or try it on top of our juicy smashed burger 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 6 cups chopped Vidalia onion (about 5 medium onions) 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ teaspoon kosher salt, divided ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar 2 tablespoons firmly packed dark brown sugar Blue cheese and crackers, to serve 1. Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium; add butter, stirring until butter is melted. Add onion, garlic, ¼ teaspoon salt, and pepper; cook, stirring frequently, until onion is golden brown and softened, about 10 minutes. (Onion will not be tender at this point.) Stir in vinegar and brown…

SURROUNDED BY THE WILD AND WONDERFUL MOUNTAINS OF WEST VIRGINIA, CHARLESTON is quickly becoming a fertile bed for culinary creativity. Its bustling downtown dotted with classic restaurants and newcomers alike, there has likely never been a better time to dine and shop in the Mountain State’s capital. Visitors will find an eclectic collection of locally owned shops and eateries. Breakfast a few blocks from Capitol Street at The Elements at the Quarrier Diner is not to be missed. Along with the expected diner staples of hashes, pancakes, and omelets, chef and co-owner Jeff Barr snuck in a few hearty gems like the Hillbilly Benedict (a buttermilk biscuit topped with fried chicken, sausage gravy, and a sunny-side up egg). While meandering through the neighborhood, be sure to notice the original art…

Mustard-Grilled Cheeseburgers MAKES 4 Mustard-grilling the patties gives them a delightful crust while infusing the meat with an extra dose of zesty flavor. Olive oil, for grilling 1 pound ground beef 1 pound ground sirloin 1 teaspoon dry mustard 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/3 cup Dijon mustard 8 slices extra-sharp white Cheddar cheese Toasted hamburger buns, thinly sliced red onion, and yellow mustard, to serve 1. Preheat grill to medium-high heat (350° to 400°). Brush grill grates with olive oil. 2. In a large bowl, combine beef, sirloin, dry mustard, and salt. Divide mixture into 8 portions, and shape each portion into a 5-inch patty. 3. Grill patties, with grill lid closed, for 2 to 3 minutes per side, brushing with Dijon mustard during last 1 minute. Remove from grill;…