Innholdsfortegnelse for March/April 2019 i Taste of the South

In south Louisiana, where my family lives, weather doesn’t signal the change of seasons as much as the selection at the Crescent City Farmers Market does. As local citrus winds up and big cardboard flats of bright, sweet Ponchatoula strawberries start filling vendors’ stalls, we know we’re in for some of the best eating months of the year. Season after season, strawberries are one of my most favorite treats. Whether piled on top of shortbread (with lots of fresh whipped cream), baked into pies, or even juiced, their tart sweetness makes just about any dish better. This year, I am obsessed with the Roasted Strawberry Biscuits, Strawberry-Chocolate Chunk Skillet Cookie, and the Strawberry Milk Pie in our Taste of the Season column (page 31). The warming weather also heralds the…

FROM THE WHITE DOMED CAPITOL, whose steps marked the end of the infamous 1965 civil rights march from Selma, to the church in which Martin Luther King Jr. once preached his inspiring words, Montgomery, Alabama, is one of the South’s most historic cities. Today, monuments, memorials, and museums offer a glimpse into the past, while current generations continue to bring a spark of excitement to this charming Southern city. Just several blocks from historic sights and the serene Alabama River, Red Bluff Cottage Bed & Breakfast is a charming home base for a weekend of exploration. This property, which opened in 1987, offers five rooms expertly decorated with historic memorabilia and comfortable amenities. Wake up early and enjoy a warm cup of coffee on the splendid front porch of the…

There’s a ritualistic and sacred alchemy to the entire process of boiling crawfish. The table is the altar, the newspaper the vestments, and the crawfish the succulent sacrifice. Boil seasoning spices the air like incense, and the acolytes gather around the ruby red pile, imbibing their heady drinks (usually cheap and abundant beer) and preparing their part in the ritual with a gnostic mixture of mayonnaise, ketchup, Worcestershire, Creole spices, and hot sauce. Crawfish dipping sauce is a condiment of mysterious origin. While ubiquitous at crawfish boils around Acadiana, it’s a subject of curiosity and even derision elsewhere in the state. A cursory request for personal recipes will render many variants, most of which resemble the traditional European cocktail sauce known as Marie Rose sauce. The base is nearly always…

This chicken dinner is great for even one or two people. With these leftover tips, you’ll cook once, eat twice, and stock your freezer all from the same bird. 1 CHICKEN TACOS Pull leftover meat off the bone and shred. Blend ½ cup sour cream with a handful of fresh cilantro. Reheat chicken and serve in warm corn tortillas with shredded red cabbage, fresh lime, crumbled Cotija cheese, and cilantro sauce. 2 STOCK Place chicken bones in a large stock pot. Add 1 quartered onion, 3 sliced carrots, 5 garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, and a few sprigs of leftover thyme or tarragon. Add water to cover. Simmer over medium-low heat for 3 hours. Strain, cool, and freeze in airtight containers for up to 3 months.…

WHITE LILY ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR This flour is ground from soft wheat versus hard wheat found in most all-purpose flours, which is crucial to achieving a light biscuit. whitelily.com ANSON MILLS 18TH CENTURY STYLE RUSTIC TOASTED OAT FLOUR The result of efforts to revive Southern heirloom grains, this oat flour is made to replicate that of our early settlers. ansonmills.com CAROLINA GROUND GRAHAM FLOUR Graham flour is a type of whole wheat flour, more coarsely ground than regular whole wheat flour. carolinaground.com MARTHA WHITE SELF-RISING FLOUR Self-rising flour has leaveners already mixed in, often eliminating the need to add more to the recipe. marthawhite.com BELLEGARDE BAKERY ABRUZZI HEIRLOOM RYE FLOUR The Carolinas were once famous for Abruzzi rye. This Texas-grown grain continues the tasty tradition. bellegardebakery.com…

MY LOVE FOR FOOD BEGAN LONG AGO on a small farm in Tennessee. It was my grandparents’ land and at the very center was Granny Foster’s kitchen, where there was always something cooking on the stove or baking in the oven. I’d spend hours sitting at the counter watching her careful hands slice freshly harvested fruits and vegetables, and transform them into flavorful suppers. We ate what we grew and almost every meal ended with a sweet treat, whether it was a simple berry-topped biscuit or a warm, bubbling pie hot from the oven—my unrivaled favorite. In my family, pies were a rite of passage. Everyone made them, and no one ever used a recipe. They blended butter and flour until it felt right and made sweet fillings, always tasting…

Shrimp Étouffée This faithful rendition of the Cajun classic is pure comfort food. You could give me fluffy rice smothered in rich gravy and topped with fresh Gulf shrimp any day of the week (page 40). Straight-Up Rhubarb Pie I am a longtime fan of Sara Foster (of Foster’s Market in Durham, North Carolina). This pie represents her style of simple, seasonal cooking, and I couldn’t recommend it highly enough (page 91). Blueberry-Coconut Coffee Cake Toasted oat flour from Anson Mills in Columbia, South Carolina, gives this coffee cake unmistakably deep, decadent flavors. Other jams will substitute nicely, so I’ll be making this all season long (page 70). Oven-Fried Chicken with Deviled Egg Sauce This might sound kooky, but hear me out: the egg yolks’ creaminess and the tartness of…

TYLER BELL Owner, El Rey Burrito Lounge and Leroy Lounge HIS PICK: Jubilee Seafood “They usually carry Isle Dauphine oysters from Mobile Oyster Company, which are some of my favorite oysters in the U.S.” ELISABETH FARRIS Blogger, elisabethandbutter.com HER PICK: Derk’s Filet & Vine “I grew up eating lunch at Derk’s at least once a week. Go to the Hot Bar and try the fried chicken, macaroni and cheese, and sweet potato casserole.” JIM SMITH Executive Chef, State of Alabama HIS PICK: Hamburger King “This burger joint is a local favorite that has been serving burgers for years and has an amazing atmosphere.”…

STRAWBERRY SEASON Fresh local strawberries are treasured in the South. Baskets of fragrant, juicy berries start filling market tables in March or April in most places, filling the air with their sweet scent for a few glorious weeks. In this fleeting season, savor every moment with these delicious recipes. Strawberry-Balsamic Roasted Chicken MAKES 5 SERVINGS Honey, balsamic, and strawberries combine to make a perfectly sweet and savory supper. 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 5 bone-in skin-on chicken thighs 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper ¼ cup balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons honey ¼ teaspoon garlic powder ½ red onion, sliced 2 cups halved fresh strawberries ¼ cup packed fresh basil leaves, chopped 1. Preheat oven to 400°. 2. In a 12-inch enamel-coated cast-iron braiser, place oil; swirl to coat.…

Smothered Étouffée—a French term meaning smothered—is a cooking technique where meat is cooked in a flavorful sauce thickened by a roux. It has a shorter cook time than a stew or braise and a longer cook time than a sauté. ROUX: A THICKENING AGENT OF EQUAL PARTS FAT AND FLOUR. Our test kitchen prefers butter for white and blonde roux. The milk fat helps to create a richer and smoother mouth feel. For brown and dark roux, we prefer to use oil due to the longer cook time. There are four main types—or colors—of roux. Each is determined by the length of cooking time. Shrimp Étouffée MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS To have this delicious dinner on the table in less than 40 minutes, start cooking a pot of rice…

Many classic Southern recipes call for cured meats—or seasoning meats—to add flavor. Here are some of our favorite ways to use them. Skillet Lima Beans and Turnip Greens with Salt Pork MAKES ABOUT 5 SERVINGS Bright spring vegetables get a hearty upgrade with the addition of salt pork. ½ pound salt pork 1 pound frozen baby lima beans, thawed 3 cups water ¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 8 cups chopped fresh turnip greens 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper 1. Cut a ½-inch-thick slice of fat from salt pork, and reserve. Trim remaining fat from salt pork; save for another use. Coarsely chop meat, and reserve. 2. Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add reserved slice…

MEANDERING THROUGH A LUSH GARDEN IN AUBURN, ALABAMA, David Bancroft examines his prizes. The leafy collard greens are almost ready to harvest, and nearby, juicy guavas are just nearing sweet ripeness. It’s springtime, and for this chef, owner, gardener, and forager, it’s the most exciting time of year. Born in Alabama and raised in San Antonio, Texas, David’s fascination with food began at his grandfather’s Alabama farm and was only strengthened by many family meals shared around a long table where freshly harvested greens, squash, corn, and peas took center stage. From hunting, fishing, and gardening with his grandfather to learning the trade secrets of mouthwatering barbecue in Texas, David quickly found his passion in cooking, creating, and entertaining in the kitchen. “Even as a child, I just loved to…

Last year, Highlands Bar & Grill, one of Chef Frank Stitt’s four notable restaurants in Birmingham, Alabama, was crowned the most Outstanding Restaurant in the country at the annual James Beard Foundation Awards. Though his culinary journey started in the sun-kissed South of France, Frank has developed a presence and popularity here in the American South that many chefs admire and aspire to. When asked how he got to where he is today, this is what he had to say. What inspires your passion for cooking? I love eating. I love the sensation of eating something that’s really luscious and delicious. I get swept away by the beauty and joy of eating a ripe strawberry, so things like that inspire my cooking. How do you keep your restaurants fresh and…

IN 2012, WADE PRESTON AND HIS WIFE, MEGAN, were living in Atlanta, Georgia, both working in the non-profit sector. Megan was seven months pregnant, and the two had a West African refugee living in their basement. That’s when Wade decided to quit his job and become a barista. “That was an interesting conversation with my father-in-law,” Wade laughs. But this was no brash move. Through their non-profit work with a company in Liberia, the two had noticed the impact that creating a viable economic structure could have on a place in need, as opposed to relying on a traditional charity model for funds. “We saw the entrepreneurial spirit in these developing countries where the economy isn’t that stable,” explains Wade. “Charity has its place, but it only goes so far.…

Tarragon Chicken with Spring Vegetables MAKES 4 SERVINGS This spring dinner welcomes fresh produce without losing the comfort of a home-cooked meal. 1 (3½-pound) whole chicken, giblets removed 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided ½teaspoon ground black pepper 2teaspoons lemon zest 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme 2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon 6 small new red potatoes, halved 3 large carrots, peeled and halved crosswise, thicker pieces halved lengthwise 2 small yellow onions, quartered 1¼ cups plus 1/3 cup chicken broth, divided 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 12 thick fresh asparagus spears, trimmed Garnish: chopped fresh thyme, chopped fresh tarragon, ground black pepper 1. Brush outside of chicken with 1 tablespoon oil. In a small bowl, combine 1¼ teaspoons salt and pepper. Sprinkle…

Caramel Layer Loaf MAKES 1 (9X5-INCH) LOAF Strewn with ribbons of rich caramel, this moist bread will quickly become your new favorite dessert. 2¼ cups all-purpose flour, divided ½ cup sugar 1½ teaspoons baking soda ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup whole buttermilk ¾ cup canola oil 2 large eggs 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract 1 (12-ounce) jar hot caramel topping*, divided 1. Preheat oven to 325°. Spray a 9x5-inch loaf pan with baking spray with flour. Line pan with parchment paper, letting excess extend over sides of pan. 2. In a large bowl, whisk together 2 cups flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk together buttermilk, oil, eggs, and vanilla. Make a well in center of flour mixture; add buttermilk mixture, stirring just until combined. 3.…

Blueberry-Coconut Coffee Cake MAKES 1 (8-INCH) CAKE Oat flour adds protein and a delightful toasted flavor to this berry-studded, not-too-sweet breakfast treat. 1 cup toasted oat flour* 1 cup old fashioned oats ½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ cup whole buttermilk ¼ cup salted butter, melted 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ cup chopped dry roasted macadamia nuts ½ cup blueberry preserves 1/3 cup unsweetened flaked coconut 1 tablespoon turbinado sugar 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray an 8-inch square baking pan with cooking spray. 2. In a medium bowl, stir together flour, oats, brown sugar, salt, and baking soda. In a small bowl, whisk together buttermilk, melted butter, eggs, and vanilla. Add buttermilk mixture to flour mixture,…

If you’ve ever attended a Southern springtime gathering, odds are you were greeted with a plateful of cool and creamy deviled eggs. From the kick of mustard and hint of sweet pickle to the elegant dusting of paprika, deviled eggs are a time-honored tradition. But just how did this quintessential Southern snack come to be? It turns out, the deviled egg didn’t originate in the South, or even in the United States. The modern-day deviled egg has its roots in ancient Rome, where boiled eggs were served with spicy sauces. As centuries passed, the decadent dish evolved and spread, eventually making its way into 19th-century American cookbooks. Though recipes have continued changing with the availability of ingredients, the foundation of the deviled egg has remained essentially the same. But with…

BAKING HAS BEEN A PART OF MY SOUL SINCE I WAS OLD ENOUGH TO DECORATE MY FIRST COOKIE. Some of my favorite childhood memories are of spending time in the kitchen with my mother while she prepared cakes, pies, and any other Southern fare you can imagine. I learned everything from weaving a lattice crust to whipping a perfect meringue from her. Looking back, this is probably where my sweet tooth was cultivated. Her careful, artistic touch always added that extra something special—a trait that made her desserts better than any other. (Trust me, there was always an influx of eager recipe testers at her door.) My mother’s kitchen is full of history: pages of old recipes, family china, and an array of utensils. Everything is organized in a place…