Innholdsfortegnelse for January/February 2019 i Taste of the South

This year, I resolve to eat more cornbread. It sounds simple enough, for sure, but as the days and weeks go by, as meals and snacks and weekends and holidays start to blur together, I’m sure I’ll need to remind myself of this. We all need a little nudge sometimes to get us out of our regular routines, and the beginning of a new year is as good a reason as any, isn’t it? With two young kids, my wife and I are always bouncing between the comforting meals expected and the desire to shake things up a bit. In this issue, we’ve come up with dozens of ways to help you spice up your winter. From novel ways to use hot sauce (page 65) and interesting takes on the…

1 BLACKBERRY PATCH SATSUMA SYRUP AND JELLY Handcrafted in Thomasville, Georgia, these small-batch delights combine fresh satsumas and cane sugar for a rich sweetness. While the syrup is fantastic on a big stack of pancakes or drizzled atop cheesecakes, we love spreading the jelly on simple slices of toast or adding it to cheese boards for a delicious balance of sweet and savory flavors. $6.99 each; blackberrypatch.com 2 FORAGE SOUTH SEA SALT & BUTTERMILK BISCUIT MIX This must-try Music City mix takes the work out of baking homemade biscuits. Just add buttermilk, melted butter, and a bit of flour for rolling out, and these beauties come together in a snap. With a delicate and fluffy texture, they’re delicious with just a pat of butter and drizzle of honey for a…

EMERIL LAGASSE Executive Chef, Emeril’s HIS PICK: Pho Tau Bay “[Get the] chargrilled pork spring rolls (with a side of peanut sauce). They are always delicious and hit the spot.” NINA COMPTON Chef/Owner, Compère Lapin HER PICK: Paladar 511 “The Lemon Ricotta Pancakes at Paladar 511 are absolutely wonderful, and they use great fresh seasonal ingredients.” JOY WILSON joythebaker.com HER PICK: Paloma Cafe “I really love their fresh fried churros [with a spicy chocolate sauce for dipping]. They pair perfectly with a cup of coffee.”…

CITRUS SEASON Oranges are grown in the southernmost parts of the southeastern states. Most varieties, such as navels and tangerines, are harvested November through January, while a few others, including Valencias, are picked March through May. Candied Orange-Almond Cake MAKES 1 (8-INCH) CAKE Topped with easy-to-make candied oranges, this cake is moist with a hint of almond flavor. ½ cup unsalted butter, softened ¾ cup sugar 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon almond extract 1¼ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup almond flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup puréed orange (about 1 large orange, peeled) Candied Oranges (recipe follows) 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray an 8-inch round cake pan with baking spray with flour; line bottom of pan with parchment paper. 2.…

1 WET TO DRY Adding wet ingredients into the dry ingredients helps create a smoother batter with less mixing, guarding against clumps of flour and cornmeal baked into the bread. 2 MIX JUST UNTIL COMBINED “Just until combined” means you should stop mixing the moment both wet and dry mixes are combined, without any visible streaks or patches left of either mixture. This ensures your cornbread will be fluffy and light in texture. 3 PREHEAT SKILLET Just like you heat up your oil in the skillet before browning meat or sautéing vegetables, the same logic applies to your cornbread. Preheating your skillet in the oven with oil ensures that from the moment your batter hits the pan, the cooking process has begun. If you pour batter into a cold skillet,…

IN UPTOWN NEW ORLEANS, A HUNGRY HOST OF GUESTS STREAM INTO A YELLOW-PAINTED BUILDING TO TAKE THEIR SEATS. It’s Saturday night, and they’ve come to sip Sazeracs beneath soaring walls covered in portraits and paintings, and commune over crisp fried green tomatoes with shrimp rémoulade or perhaps duckling that’s been slow-roasting for hours. This is Upperline, a Crescent City gem that has been pumping out classic Creole fare since its doors opened in 1983. It’s equal parts elegant and comfortable, thoughtful and elaborate. But to legendary owner JoAnn Clevenger, it’s more. It’s a haven for happiness. “We work really hard—the staff, the bartender, the servers, the cooks, the chef—to make you happy,” JoAnn explains. “If we make you happy, and you tell us how happy you are, then we feel…

THAT MORNING WE LAUGHED. My mom and I standing at the open refrigerator, spoons in hand, eating Dad’s red beans. Yes, they were cold. But they weren’t the type of cold (like a glass of OJ or mug of beer left in the freezer a little too long) where ice chips would form. The brown stainless-steel pot, with lid always inverted, kept the beans at a temperature similar to a spoon of chocolate pudding. It was that temperature of food that makes you feel guilty for eating something so good because of its luxurious texture. We laughed because I startled her. I caught the adult kid with her hand in the cookie jar. Could you imagine the fury of the reverse? “Todd, what are you doing?” she would say. “You…

Parkway Bakery PO’ BOY: Some of my favorite po’ boys come from Parkway Bakery and Tavern in the Bayou St. John neighborhood. Try the Parkway Surf and Turf (slow-cooked roast beef topped with fried shrimp). Casamento’s OYSTERS: Raw, fried, or charbroiled, I’m not sure I’ve met an oyster I didn’t like. The Uptown locals’ haunt, Casamento’s Restaurant, shucks some of the best in town. Napoleon House MUFFULETTA: Muffuletta’s are the cause of many great debates in New Orleans. Hot or cold, I like them however they come. Central Grocery (cold) and Napoleon House (hot) are hard to beat. Mr. B’s Bistro GUMBO: Especially during the coldest months, I crave gumbo nonstop, and while I typically make chicken and sausage gumbos at home, I absolutely love the Gumbo Ya Ya at…

Pimiento Cheese Grits with Pork Chops and Mushrooms MAKES 2 SERVINGS With creamy cheese grits and hearty pork chops, these grits bowls are comfort food at its finest. To have everything ready at once, start cooking the pork chops 20 minutes into the grits cooking time. 3¼ cups water, divided 1¾ teaspoons kosher salt, divided ½ teaspoon ground black pepper, divided ¾ cup stone-ground grits ¾ cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese 2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream ½ teaspoon hot sauce 1 (4-ounce) jar diced pimientos, drained 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 2 (¾-inch-thick) pork rib chops 1 (8-ounce) package fresh cremini mushrooms, sliced ½ cup chopped onion 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme Garnish: chopped fresh thyme, ground black pepper 1. In a large saucepan, bring 3 cups water, 1 teaspoon…

For more than a decade, California native Derek Emerson has worked tirelessly to cultivate his very own style of classic Southern cuisine in Mississippi’s capitol city. Now, the three-time James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist owns four of Jackson’s most well-known spots for homestyle eats, where he gets to share his passion for the food he learned to love so many years ago in his grandmother’s kitchen. What made you want to become a chef? My family was always into the coolest restaurants. Family vacations were based around certain restaurants. I had been going to these places in New Orleans, New York, and Los Angeles, and I always really enjoyed it. I used to cook with my grandmothers, too, and I decided one day to go to culinary school. I just…

WHILE MANY VISITORS START IN THE FRENCH QUARTER—which is full of storied white-tablecloth establishments, jazz clubs, and po’ boys galore—the rest of the Crescent City is packed with Cajun, Creole, Southern, soul food, and more. If it’s been a while since you’ve visited New Orleans, it’s time to come back and try some of the new kids on the block. Finding the perfect home base in the Crescent City can make a good trip great. Located on St. Charles Avenue in the picturesque Lower Garden District, the Pontchartrain Hotel covers all the bases and then some. The historic 1927 property was renovated in 2016 and has amenities to spare. A few highlights from the 106-room hotel include a rooftop with stellar downtown views, nightly performances at the piano bar, and…

If you feel like you need an escape after the hustle and bustle of the holidays, it may just be that a trip to the Lowcountry is calling your name. From the moment you arrive on Hilton Head Island, South Carolina, you’re in for an unforgettable experience filled with luxury, wildlife, a bounty of outdoor activities, and one-of-a-kind culinary journeys. Whether you’re planning a reunion trip with your closest girlfriends, a mother-daughter getaway, or a celebratory outing for someone special in your life, the island leaves nothing to be desired. Take a deep exhale and be captivated by the beams of sunshine, miles of coastline, and cool breezes coming off the water. To experience the best cuisine the island has to offer, plan to indulge in the many activities of…

Classic Buttermilk Cornbread MAKES 1 (10-INCH) SKILLET Every Southern cook needs a foolproof cornbread recipe in their back pocket; this buttery, golden-brown bread is just that. 2 tablespoons canola oil 2 cups plain white or yellow cornmeal 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2½ cups whole buttermilk 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 2 large eggs 1. Preheat oven to 425°. Pour oil into a 10-inch cast-iron skillet. Place skillet in oven until oil is very hot, about 8 minutes. 2. In a large bowl, whisk together cornmeal, flour, baking powder, and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk together buttermilk, melted butter, and eggs. Make a well in center of dry ingredients; add buttermilk mixture, stirring just until combined. Carefully pour batter into hot skillet.…

"My grandpa was a bookworm lawyer, not a cook. But when we’d gather, he’d make his one signature dish: garlic and soy-glazed roast chicken. My mom would whip up an army-size batch of garlic butter and herb rice, which we’d eat with breakfast, lunch, and dinner. And although vegetables were never a favorite among the men in our Filipino clan, this mix of squash, onions, and beans was somehow the exception. The bacon probably helped."…

Good Luck Red Beans and Rice MAKES 8 SERVINGS Serve this easy-to-make New Year’s Day staple with cornbread for the ultimate feast. ½ pound dried red kidney beans ½ pound dried black-eyed peas 1 pound smoked sausage, sliced 3 stalks celery, chopped 1 cup chopped green bell pepper 1 cup chopped red bell pepper 1 medium onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 (32-ounce) containers chicken broth ¼ cup hot sauce* 1 cup long-grain rice Garnish: chopped fresh parsley 1. In a large cast-iron Dutch oven, combine beans, peas, and water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat; boil for 1 minute. Remove from heat; cover and let stand for 1 hour. Drain. 2. In same Dutch oven, sauté sausage, celery, bell peppers, and onion…

IF YOU’RE FROM THE SOUTH, then you likely grew up frequenting the local meat-and-three. Even the smallest towns have at least one of these throwback joints serving up classic Southern mains and an array of hearty sides to satisfy the locals’ comfort food cravings. This regional staple thrives on classic family recipes passed down from generation to generation, keeping the soul of the South alive feast after feast. In some places, though, the traditions we know and love have been reimagined for the 21st century with surprising success. New or old, these are our 10 hand-picked favorites. 1 BLUE & WHITE RESTAURANT Tunica, Mississippi More than 90 years have passed since this historic restaurant opened its doors, but it’s not slowing down any time soon. The unique colors that cover…