Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2018 i Taste of the South

I don’t know about you, but I’ve got a serious sweet tooth. From sticky buns with my coffee in the morning to decadent brownies for dessert, you won’t often see me turning away sugary treats. In this issue you’ll find some of our new favorite desserts, and I can’t wait for you to try them out. From the bonanza of brownies and bars in Flair and Square (page 57) to the South’s Best Sweet Rolls (page 99), there’s enough to satisfy just about any craving. Even better, a couple places featured in the South’s Best article will ship their tasty delights right to your door. One of the most fun parts of producing Taste of the South is working with incredible Southern ingredients and personalities. Whether it’s something recognizable, such…

1 MUDDY POND SORGHUM MILL SORGHUM SYRUP Produced by the Guenther family deep in the hills of Tennessee, this pure sorghum syrup is the ultimate sweet addition to freshly baked biscuits. Find even more delicious ways to use it on pages 47 to 56. $9 for 1 pint; muddypondsorghum.com 2 CAROLINA GRAIN CO. WALNUT GRAIN SCOOP Focused on showcasing the unique character of different woods, woodworker Andrew McCarn handcrafts each piece that goes out from this North Carolina business. We love using this beautiful scoop for farro, rice, and other grains. $20; carolinagrainco.com 3 EMERSON CREEK POTTERY PEARL LARGE CASSEROLE Let your cozy casseroles shine in this sleek and sturdy 1½-quart dish. Handmade and glazed in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia, it’s microwave-, dishwasher-, and oven-safe. $34; emersoncreekpottery.com 4…

VISHWESH BHATT Executive Chef, Snackbar HIS PICK: CITY GROCERY “City Grocery has been a trailblazer since its inception, and after 25 years of exceptional food and beverage service, it still continues to set the bar.” ELIZABETH HEISKELL Owner, Debutante Farmer and Elizabeth Heiskell Catering HER PICK: HANDY ANDY GROCERY “Handy Andy is known for amazing barbecue, and rightly so, but the sleeper sandwich of the entire town is their cheeseburger.” JOHN T. EDGE Director, Southern Foodways Alliance HIS PICK:SNACKBAR “My wife and I love to claim barstools at Snackbar, where Vishwesh Bhatt marries Gujarat and Mississippi.”…

White Chicken Chili MAKES 10 SERVINGS Starting with dried beans adds a bit of extra hands-off time, but results in chunkier stew, as the beans don’t break down as much during cooking. To save time, 3 (15-ounce) cans of beans, drained, can be used instead. 1 pound dried great Northern beans 4 pounds bone-in skin-on chicken pieces 2 (32-ounce) containers low-sodium chicken broth 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 medium onion, diced 4 cloves garlic, minced 4 (4.5-ounce) cans chopped green chiles 1 jalapeño, sliced 1½ tablespoons ground cumin 1 tablespoon chili powder ½ teaspoon ground red pepper 2 tablespoons masa corn flour or cornmeal 2 teaspoons kosher salt ¼ cup fresh lime juice Toppings: grated Monterey Jack cheese, lime wedges, sour cream, fresh cilantro leaves, pico de gallo, sliced jalapeños,…

The South’s love affair with macaroni and cheese is rumored to have begun in the days of Thomas Jefferson. Legend has it that he sampled the dish on a trip to Italy and returned to Monticello, his Virginia estate, with the intent of recreating it. Thomas attempted to have a macaroni-making machine built or bought, but settled for importing the pasta for his new favorite treat. And after he served this indulgent masterpiece at a state dinner, America, it seems, was hooked on mac and cheese. Whether our third president really brought this indulgent dish to the South, or whether it originally came over with European settlerswe’re just glad it arrived on our shores. Like most hearty casseroles, this ooey, gooey pasta is considered a specialty in the kitchens of…

“I know people who say you shouldn’t mix cheese and seafood. I say forget those rules. I refuse to live in a fascist culinary world.” LIKE MANY BORN-AND-RAISED SOUTHERNERS, every Sunday afternoon of my childhood was dedicated to family supper at my grandmother’s house. Affectionately nicknamed “Nannie,” she always had three tables (one larger and two tiny) set by one o’clock, and we packed 13 or more adults and children around them to enjoy a home-cooked feast. We all had favorite dishes—Nannie’s creamed potatoes and baked apples being among the most popular—but nothing ever seemed to cause quite as much ruckus as when she made a batch of pear preserves. Of course, a jar was sure to be on the table for slathering over biscuits, but the real glee was…

One of my favorite Southern towns is Oxford, Mississippi. The culinary scene really runs the gamut from casual comforting spots, like Ajax and Saint Leo (above), all the way to Chef John Currence’s stellar offerings. Can I share a secret? I love eating brownies first thing in the morning. While a classic fudge brownie is my go-to, the Coffee & Cream Blondies would be a perfect eye-opener. Autumn is just about the most perfect time to break out the Dutch oven and settle in for a long, slow simmer. This otherwise classic pot roast is livened up with a dose of sweet, malty stout beer. As far as comfort food goes, macaroni and cheese is at the top of my list. Though the boxed stuff will do in a pinch,…

DELTA HOT TAMALE FESTIVAL October 18–20, 2018 | Greenville, Mississippi Each year, tens of thousands of guests pile into the small town of Greenville, Mississippi—Hot Tamale Capitol of the World—for a weekend celebrating the region’s best-known chefs, writers, musicians, and tamale-makers. Spend the day strolling through downtown tasting the unique offerings from vendors lining the streets while enjoying the best of the Blues. mainstreetgreenville.com BEIGNET FEST October 6, 2018 | New Orleans, Louisiana Crispy, puffy, and coated in powdered sugar, who can resist a freshly fried classic beignet? No one! So head to the place that does them best to get your fix at this scrumptious event. With savory and sweet creations from more than 20 of the Crescent City’s finest eateries, plus live music and kid-friendly activities, this festival…

“I love the feedback from my chefs. They’re always fascinating me with something they’ve come up with, and I learn from them. They’re my heroes.” GEORGEANNE ROSS—KNOWN IN OXFORD, MISSISSIPPI, as The Original Grit Girl—could be the poster child for being in the right place at the right time. Nearly everything about the successful business she’s built seems to have come together by pure happenstance, but there’s nothing coincidental about her work ethic, her generous spirit, or her commitment to the chefs she lovingly refers to as “my guys and my girls.” It was 1998 when Georgeanne’s husband, Freddy, came home with an old, broken gristmill. A cotton and soybean farmer, Freddy had a knack for mechanics, and the gristmill was a thank-you gift from a local preacher who was…

Sorghum is harvested in the crisp, fall months, which makes it that much more special to me—I celebrate my birthday in October, and there were many times as a little girl when my parents would swap a birthday party with an outing to a syrup-making festival. At the time, I didn’t wholly appreciate the family daytrips and I often find myself digging deep for those memories. Sorghum syrup reminds me of home. Sorghum-Bourbon Fizz MAKES 1 SERVING I like to serve this cocktail over ice, but it’s also delicious shaken and strained. Just be sure to whisk everything together to dissolve the sorghum before adding ice. 1½ ounces bourbon 1 tablespoon sorghum syrup 2 teaspoons apple juice 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 1½ ounces dry hard cider Garnish: apple slice…

THERE’S NOTHING LIKE THAT FIRST AUTUMN CHILL on a brisk October morning. The leaves transform from shades of green to rich reds and yellows as we pull our coziest sweaters from the closet and begin to dream of soul-warming treats like fluffy, sticky sweet rolls. Whether swirled in caramelized brown sugar and cinnamon or studded with pecans and generously frosted, these are the buns that satisfy our cool-weather cravings. 1 CONTINENTAL BAKERY Birmingham, Alabama This quaint bakeshop specializes in artisan breads and European-style pastries, but it’s their old-fashioned sweet rolls we can’t get enough of. From extra-large and iced to petite and sticky, these sugary buns make the perfect morning indulgence. chezlulu.us 2 SCARLET’S BAKERY Louisville, Kentucky Known for their fluffy cinnamon rolls doused in the creamiest of frostings, this…

EXPERT ADVICE Diners often ask Ian what makes his food so good. His answer? Seasoning. “Don’t be scared of salt,” he says. “You need to season your food well, and you need to taste it as you go.” Since his start in the food industry, Ian Boden’s motto has been to under-promise and over-deliver. Step inside his no-frills restaurant, The Shack, and you’ll understand how this goal has turned into reality in small-town Staunton, Virginia. Housed in an actual shack, this unexpected eatery has become one of the most talked-about spots throughout the South—and for good reason. What was your inspiration for The Shack? The Shack itself (and our logo) is modeled after my wife’s Grandma Tissy's house. She was the matriarch of the family, and this is my way…

9 places that hit the spot If you close your eyes and imagine the quintessential Southern town, chances are your mind will conjure up images that could pass as Oxford, Mississippi. There are palatial historic homes with wide front porches. An idyllic town square is anchored by a towering Greek Revival courthouse in the center. Friends and strangers greet one another on bustling sidewalks with warm smiles and sincere hellos. Boutiques proffer a mix of frilly dresses, starched khakis, and college football memorabilia. At the local restaurants and bars, everyone seems to know everyone else, and no one feels unwelcome. OXFORD IS SOUTHERN DOWN TO ITS DEEP ROOTS. It’s a beguiling town that feels like coming home, even for those who have never stepped foot in it before. Like its…

PUH-KHAN OR PEE-CAN? We found over six different ways Southerners pronounce “pecan.” While you and your neighbor might pronounce it differently, we can all agree they make a delicious bite of pie. STAY COOL Shelled or unshelled, pecans like a dark, cool, and dry environment. Store in an airtight container in your pantry for short-term use and in the freezer for long-term storage. GET CRACKIN’ We recommend a good nutcracker for shelling pecans. Simply crack the shell, peel off with your fingers, and pick out the halves. If you are looking to process several pounds of pecans, search for a local pecan farm or processor in your area for by-the-pound shelling. Pecan-Bourbon Sticky Buns MAKES 10 A hint of bourbon in the ooey, gooey pecan topping makes this classic even…

ISAAC TOUPS WAS BORN AND RAISED in the small town of Rayne, Louisiana, where Cajun isn’t just a style of cooking—it’s a way of life. He grew up surrounded by swamps and forests, pig roasts and crawfish boils, and neighbors who loved to get together and pass a good time. Cooking was something everyone in the family took part in, but no one had cooking in their veins quite like Isaac. In his early 20s, he took a job as a fry cook for Emeril Lagasse, and he was hooked. The kitchen is home, no matter how far from the Atchafalaya Basin it may be. And though his two namesake restaurants, Toups’ Meatery and Toups South, are based in New Orleans, each bite will make anyone born in Cajun Country…