Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2018 i Taste of the South

I used to scour The Market at Pepper Place in Birmingham, Alabama, for Arkansas Black apples as the summer heat began to break. This crisp, flavorful apple has a short season, but with its notes of vanilla and almond, the Arkansas Black quickly became one of my all-time favorites. In many ways, late summer and the beginning of autumn is the best time to cook and entertain. Peaches and blueberries are gone (unless we were able to freeze or can some), but our garden is still full of late-season tomatoes, greens, and other cooler-weather treats. This year, much of our farmers’ market apple haul will be making its way into the incredible array of sweets in the Apple Delights feature (page 61). Throughout the fall, we’ll definitely be making the…

“THIS BUSINESS WAS ACTUALLY AN ACCIDENT,” says Sally Mengel with a grin. She’s sitting at a table inside a roomy commercial kitchen that’s buzzing with staff and activity at Loblolly Creamery, the accidental business in question. It’s a Tuesday morning and a team is hard at work in the Little Rock production facility—churning ice cream, baking macarons, decorating cakes—under the watchful eye of this thoughtful, relaxed, 30-year-old business owner with an easy smile. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that this keen and creative woman ended up running a successful enterprise. She is, after all, the same girl who launched a student-run coffee cart while she was an undergrad at Emory University. Entrepreneurship and resourcefulness seem to come naturally to her, but she didn’t plan to build a small ice…

Johnnycakes MAKES 12 A cross between cornbread and pancakes, johnnycakes are easy to make for your next weekend breakfast. 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup coarse-ground cornmeal ½ cup fine-ground cornmeal 2 tablespoons sugar 2½ teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¾ cup whole milk ½ cup water 1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 large eggs 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more to serve Maple syrup, to serve 1. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, cornmeals, sugar, baking powder, salt, and cinnamon. In a medium bowl, whisk together milk, ½ cup water, melted butter, vanilla, and eggs. Make a well in center of flour mixture; add milk mixture, stirring until smooth. Let stand for 5 minutes. 2. In a large…

FALL’S FRESH FINDS Kathy Cary knows her produce. While summer is fading away, she says there’s still plenty of farm-fresh goods to look forward to this time of year. “Depending on the weather, it can be better than June and July,”she said. Her picks? Baby potatoes, fresh Brussels sprouts, and late season tomatoes, “without a doubt.” Icon Kathy Cary has been bringing her passion for local farms and fresh food to Louisville, Kentucky, for four decades. The seven-time James Beard Award nominee is the owner and executive chef of Lilly’s Bistro, which celebrated its 30th anniversary earlier this year, and La Peche, her catering company that turns 39 this fall. When did you realize you had a passion for food? Growing up on a farm, I was very inspired by…

Southern-Style Peanut Noodles MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS Accented with hot sauce, thick-cut bacon, and collard greens, these peanut noodles are a fun take on a classic Thai dish. 2/3 cup creamy peanut butter ½ cup water 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar 1 tablespoon hot sauce 1½ teaspoons sugar ¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided 6 slices thick-cut bacon 1 pound large fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined (tails left on) 6 cups (½-inch-thick) sliced collard greens 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped ½ pound linguini, cooked according to package directions ¼ cup chopped salted cocktail peanuts Quick Pickled Cucumbers (recipe follows) 1. In a medium bowl, whisk together peanut butter, ½ cup water, vinegar, hot sauce, sugar, and ½ teaspoon salt until smooth. 2. In a large skillet, cook bacon over medium…

Bacon-Wrapped Brussels Sprouts with Mustard Sauce MAKES 24 A tangy mustard sauce and a cane syrup glaze adds complexity to these sweet and salty bite-size morsels. 12 slices bacon, halved crosswise 12 large Brussels sprouts, halved lengthwise ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 tablespoons cane syrup 2 teaspoons distilled white vinegar Mustard Sauce (recipe follows) 1. Preheat oven to 375°. Spray a large rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray. 2. Fold each piece of bacon in half lengthwise. Wrap one bacon piece around each Brussels sprouts half, securing with a wooden pick. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. 3. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Place half of Brussels sprouts, flat side down, in skillet. Cook until browned, 2 to…

THERE ARE FEW THINGS SOUTHERNERS TAKE MORE PRIDE IN THAN OUR VARIETY OF PRODUCE. From heirloom tomatoes and juicy peaches to sweet Vidalia onions and sturdy collard greens, farmers’ markets and backyard gardens overflow with a delicious abundance. Over the last few generations, farming and gardening have become increasingly commercialized. Large seed and plant companies have gobbled up smaller businesses, and with that, the region's diversity of fruits, vegetables, and even flowers have become threatened. Planting time-honored heirloom varieties and saving seeds can help preserve our favorite flavors for years to come. It’s this notion that inspired a revival of seed saving, the craft of harvesting and properly storing seeds from one variety of a crop for future planting. “Seed saving is broader than just growing your own vegetable or…

What makes Louisiana blue crabs special? Louisiana crabs are special to me because of the memories I have growing up near Lake Pontchartrain. I remember catching crabs with my friends with just a piece of chicken and a string. Looking back now, I realize how fortunate I was to have the lake basically in my backyard and to be introduced to such an abundance of seafood at such a young age. I look forward to creating these same memories with my children, who now live in the very same home on the lake. What is your favorite way to prepare Louisiana blue crabs? That’s a hard one to pinpoint. Local crabs have such versatility that so many dishes come to mind. But currently, my favorite dish with Louisiana blue crabs…

TANGY MARINATED LOUISIANA BLUE CRAB CLAWS MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS 2 pounds cooked crab claws ½ cup chopped green onion 2 (0.7-ounce) envelopes Italian dressing mix ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon lemon zest ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper Garnish: lemon zest 1. Place crab claws in a large resealable plastic bag. Add green onion, Italian dressing mix, oil, vinegar, lemon zest and juice, soy sauce, garlic, and red pepper. Seal bag, and refrigerate for 4 hours, turning occasionally. Using a slotted spoon, transfer crab claws to a serving dish, discarding marinade. Garnish with lemon zest, if desired. Serve immediately. For other delicious Louisiana blue crab recipes, visit LouisianaSeafood.com.…

PERHAPS IT’S THEIR CRISP, GOLDEN-BROWN EDGES AND SOFT, TENDER CENTERS practically begging to be dunked in a cold glass of milk. Or maybe it’s their hand-held size, or endless flavor combinations—some studded with rich chocolate, caramel, raisins, and nuts, or kept simple with just a dusting of sugar. No matter the occasion, cookies are the perfect dessert, and while there’s no cookie we’d refuse, these 12 Southern hotspots serve some of the best. 1 SUÁREZ BAKERY Charlotte, North Carolina From their picturesque iced sugar cookies to their old-fashioned classics, this polished Charlotte shop’s confections are almost too pretty to eat—almost. Order a batch for a special occasion, or pop into the shop for seasonal finds. suarezbakery.com 2 CHURCH STREET COFFEE & BOOKS Birmingham, Alabama Heralded for their famous Breakup Cookie—an…

1 CATOCTIN CREEK QUARTER BRANCH APPLE BRANDY This Virginia apple brandy tastes just like biting into a crisp, juicy apple, but with an extra kick. It will add fresh fruitiness to cocktails or baked goods, such as the Appalachian Stack Cake on page 71. $29.99 for 1 (375-mL) bottle; catoctincreekdistilling.com 2 BIG SPOON ROASTERS NUT BUTTERS Made to order in small batches, Big Spoon Roasters’ from-scratch nut butters are handcrafted in Durham, North Carolina. We can’t resist their unique flavors like chocolaty Peanut Cocoa Butter and aromatic Maple Cinnamon Nut Butter. $9.95-$13.95 for 1 (10-ounce) jar; bigspoonroasters.com 3 MOLLIE JENKINS POTTERY ALL-PURPOSE MIXING BOWLS Masterfully handmade in Columbus, Georgia, these gorgeously glazed off-white, speckled mixing bowls have a sturdy handle and a convenient pour spout that make baking a breeze.…

NATHANIEL IZARD Owner, Izard Chocolate HIS PICK: BOULEVARD BREAD CO. “Boulevard is one of my long-time favorites with its almost European feel. Their breads and pastries are outstanding. I recommend their breakfast sandwich and a cup of coffee, or for lunch their Smoked Turkey Sandwich.” SCOTT MCGEHEE Owner/Partner, Yellow Rocket Concepts (Local Lime, Lost Forty Brewing, Heights Taco and Tamale Co., ZAZA, Big Orange) HIS PICK: MADDIE’S PLACE “Brian Deloney is an exceptional chef and extremely high-integrity human. Brian consistently puts out some of the best Cajun and Creole food in Arkansas.”…

Butternut Squash and Kale Flatbread MAKES 4 SERVINGS This homemade flatbread has all the qualities of delicious restaurant fare with the ease of using a store-bought pizza dough. ¾ pound butternut squash, peeled and thinly sliced 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 (16-ounce) bag deli pizza dough, room temperature ¼ cup thinly sliced red onion 1 cup chopped fresh kale ¼ cup crumbled feta cheese ¼ cup pecan halves, toasted 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage Garnish: flaked sea salt, olive oil 1. Preheat oven to 425°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. 2. In a large bowl, toss together squash, 1 tablespoon oil, salt, and pepper. Arrange squash in a single layer on prepared pan. 3. Bake until tender, 14…

Rustic Apple-Pecan Tart MAKES 1 (11X10-INCH) TART Chopped pecans impart an irresistible crunch to this simple and rustic apple tart. 4½ cups peeled and sliced Granny Smith Apples (4-5 medium apples) 3 tablespoons sugar, divided ½ lemon, juiced Cornmeal Tart Dough (recipe follows) Pecan Filling (recipe follows) 1 egg yolk 1 tablespoon whole milk ½ cup toasted pecans, chopped 1. Preheat oven to 375°. 2. In a large bowl, stir together apples, 2 tablespoons sugar, and lemon juice. 3. On a large sheet of parchment paper, roll Cornmeal Tart Dough into a 13x12-inch rectangle. Transfer to a large rimmed baking sheet. Spread Pecan Filling onto dough, leaving a 1-inch border. Arrange apple slices over Pecan Filling. Fold edges of dough over filling. 4. In a small bowl, whisk together egg…

SOUTHERN UNIVERSITY AND A&M COLLEGE BATON ROUGE Game day at Southern is filled with sounds of the prestigious and highly acclaimed band, the Human Jukebox, and sights of the colorful uniforms and talented dancers. The Human Jukebox has been ranked as one of the top bands in the nation by ESPN, Time, and USA Today. Southern is also known for its friendly fans, the Jaguar Nation, who gather together before games to grill and catch up with friends. The beautiful campus sits right on Scott’s Bluff overlooking the banks of the Mississippi River, near the replica of “the red stick” that gives Baton Rouge its name. Each Thanksgiving, the Jaguars play rival Grambling State University in the Bayou Classic at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome in New Orleans. UNIVERSITY OF LOUISIANA AT…

FRESH: Blue crabs bought fresh should still be alive. Keep the crabs well-iced in an ice chest until you’re ready to cook them. FROZEN: Crabmeat can be frozen for up to two months. Chill the crabmeat; package it in small, moisture-proof, vapor-proof containers and expel any air before sealing. Spread out in the freezer for rapid freezing. Thaw in the refrigerator for a day before using. COOKED: The shelf life of fresh-picked, cooked crabmeat is 10 to 12 days from the packaging date. Once at home, it’s best to use it in one or two days.…

For generations, this soul-warming dish has been a staple of the region’s diet. But collards haven’t maintained their popularity for this long just because of their flavor. They have long served as a hearty, nutritious, affordable meal that helped sustain Southern families in the bleakest of times. Thick-stemmed with sturdy, dark leaves, these hardy greens are available year-round and even today are considered a staple in any classic Southern feast. Traditionally slow-braised with some form of salted meat (ham hock, bacon, or smoked turkey being the most common), the tough leaves break down as they cook, creating a flavorful, vitamin-rich broth known as potlikker. Many people consider this cooking liquid just as vital to the dish as the greens themselves and have sought to find an array of secondary uses…

BORN IN PUERTO RICO, RAISED IN GEORGIA, and now living in Brooklyn, New York, radio producer and writer Von Diaz grew up with a host of culinary experiences. While spending summers and holidays in the kitchen with her grandmother in Puerto Rico, Von savored adobo-marinated meats, picadillo sandwiches, mofongo (mashed fried plantains), and other island staples. And during her childhood in the Deep South, she learned to enjoy classic regional fare like grits, greens, and sweet tea. Now in her adult life, cooking with the flavors of either of her two culinary cultures—or merging them together in a single dish—has become a way for Von to feel connected to her family, her home, and her past. And by sharing her story, and her recipes, in her debut cookbook Coconuts &…

Growing up, there were always cast-iron skillets close at hand in my family’s kitchen— if not always one on the stove. My dad’s collection is immaculate, well cared for, and in constant rotation. His cast iron cabinet holds skillets that have passed through generations, and it was the first thing I tried to replicate when I struck out on my own into adulthood. In my early 20s, when I was still trying to find my identity in the kitchen (and life) and still working on building my cast iron collection, my friend found a 12-inch skillet in the backyard of her new house. It was in rough shape. Crusted with rust, beat up, grimy from sitting through countless Washington, D.C. summers—it looked terrible. But I was young, childless, and looking…