Innholdsfortegnelse for July/August 2018 i Taste of the South

OR ROAD FOOD, BEACH FOOD, OR MIDDLE-OF-THE-NIGHT FOOD, FOR THAT MATTER. Juicy, crispy, and tender yet just still toothsome enough, fried chicken is—I’m going to say it—practically perfect. That said, different fried chicken preparations are better suited to specific situations. Supermarket fried chicken, for example, is excellent as a beach treat, while a time-honored family recipe, straight from the fryer, can’t be topped for Sunday supper. The Fried Chicken with Spicy Honey that we’ve included with our Perfect Picnic menu is wholly suited for warm summer afternoons, a nice breeze, and plenty of crisp, cold Refrigerator Dill Pickles. (You’ll find both on page 37.) Summer isn’t all picnics and fried chicken, though. There are plenty of other parties, potlucks, and impromptu gettogethers that pop up around every turn. For those…

GEORGIA JAMES Houston, Texas Part of his ever evolving restaurant project, James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd’s newest venture will continue to tell the story of Houston’s changing culinary scene through mouthwatering menu items like hearty, cast iron–seared steaks and fresh, cold seafood. georgiajamessteak.com ASHEVILLE WINE + FOOD August 18-19 | Asheville, NC Head to Asheville for an incredible weekend of exploring the best bites of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Located in the heart of the vibrant art district, this two-day annual festival is celebrating 10 years of palate-pleasing bites and must-see demos. It gives guests the exciting opportunity to sample dishes from area restaurants, learn from demos, and interact with some of Asheville’s best chefs and artisans. ashevillewineandfood.com THE CITADEL Miami, Florida Located in the city’s Little River district,…

Local chefs throughout Chapel Hill sing the praises of both the cheese and the women behind it. STEPPING ONTO Flo Hawley and Portia McKnight’s Chapel Hill Creamery, a 47-acre dairy farm on the outskirts of Chapel Hill, there is an overwhelming sense of calm. Maybe it’s the tree-lined, winding gravel road that leads back to the property. Maybe it’s the sense of remote solitude. Or maybe, as Portia points out, it’s the soulful eyes of the 30 Jersey cows staring back at you. Whatever it is, what Flo and Portia have created on this little plot of land generates happiness—both for the farm’s residents and for the city at large. Back in 2000, fueled by a desire to be closer to the production of their food, the two women, then…

8 @JOYTHEBAKER New Orleans, Louisiana  joythebaker.com Fueled by a love of butter, sugar, and flour, Joy Wilson started her blog—and subsequently a community of passionate bakers—in 2008. Ten years, three cookbooks, and one teaching space (The Bakehouse NOLA) later, Joy the Baker continues to inspire us daily with a feed full of delicious surprises. 9 @LIBBIESUMMERS Savannah, Georgia  libbiesummers.com A quick scroll through Libbie Summers’ Instagram feed is the fastest way to brighten any day. The powerhouse behind lifestyle brand A Food-Inspired Life and crafter of a sassy array of Southern sprinkles, Libbie packs her page with the perfect balance of flavor, color, and whimsy.…

31 SLUGBURGER Corinth, Mississippi  mainstreetcorinth.com Made of ground beef and a flour extender, this deep-fried Depression-era favorite was created to go a bit further when money was tight. Legend has it, it got its name from the slang term used for a nickel, as the flat, crisp appearance reminded folks of a bronzed coin. They’re thought to have originated in Corinth, Mississippi, where John Weeks began selling them in 1917. Today, claiming their title as “Home of the Slugburger,” Corinth celebrates the greasy, fried tradition with an annual must-see festival. 32 MOONLITE BAR-B-Q Owensboro, Kentucky  moonlite.com Mutton is not a typical menu item at most Southern barbecue restaurants, but Pat Bosley of Moonlite Bar-B-Q in Owensboro, Kentucky, thinks it might be having a resurgence in the U.S. Chopped or in…

44 ARTISAN BACON When it comes to the salty, savory, swoon-worthy stuff, quality far outweighs quantity. In recent years, companies like the Fatback Pig Project, Benton’s Smoky Mountain Country Hams, and newcomer Bill-E’s Small Batch Bacon have raised the stakes in the bacon-crafting game, skipping shortcuts and sticking with high-quality, small-batch operations. 45 COMMUNITY-SUPPORTED AGRICULTURE (CSA) BOXES Visiting the farmers’ market is a great way to get your fix of local produce, but subscription Community-Supported Agriculture programs are a fun and cost-effective way to support your favorite farmers. At the beginning of each growing season, customers prepay for a share of that producer’s crops. To find a CSA in your area, visit localharvest.org. 46 VIRGINA CRAFT CIDER In colonial America, apple cider was the drink of choice for folks of…

1 QUEEN OF CREAM Atlanta, Georgia Priding themselves on 100% scratch-made products, this ice cream parlor has a bright and charming atmosphere that perfectly matches their must-try ice cream flavors like classic Sprinkle Cookie and Lavender Honeycomb. queenofcream.com 2 THE PARLOUR Durham, North Carolina A Durham couple began experimenting with making their own at home. Soon their hobby turned into a traveling ice cream truck, which then grew into a popular downtown storefront. We love flavors like the crowd-favorite Salted Butter Caramel and their coffee ice creams. theparlour.co 3 CLUMPIES ICE CREAM CO. Chattanooga, Tennessee Crowds have been flocking to Clumpies for almost 20 years for rich and creamy classic flavors, with a creative twist. Made in small batches, their Mayan Spiced Chocolate is out of this world, but we…

FOR A NUMBER OF MY CHILDHOOD SUMMERS, my family spent a week on the Florida Gulf Coast at my grandmother’s request. To her, a family summer vacation was more about keeping the siblings, cousins, aunts, and uncles connected than splashing in the waves, but if she got to fit in both pastimes, she was happy. Any traveler who has taken I-65 South from Birmingham, Alabama, toward the beach has without a doubt noticed the giant peach water tower marking passage through Chilton County. This became a beacon of sweet joy during those childhood drives south; part of my grandmother’s family bonding objective was a nonnegotiable stop at Durbin Farms. A few exits past the water tower awaited eagerly anticipated buckets of fresh peach ice cream. For a lady who was…

Since competing on Top Chef, James Beard Award nominee Nina Compton has made her mark on the New Orleans food scene as a master at blending cultural cuisines. In 2015, Nina opened her first acclaimed Crescent City eatery, Compère Lapin, and earlier this year introduced her second—the highly anticipated Bywater American Bistro (BABs). So, you’re from St. Lucia. How has that influenced your culinary style? Growing up in the Caribbean, we had amazing fresh produce, fish, and incredible spices and flavors. You’ll see dishes at both Compère Lapin and BABs that use these Caribbean flavors but are incorporated with other elements. For instance, my curried goat at Compère Lapin is Caribbean in nature but served with a sweet potato gnocchi—a nod to my Italian training. How does your New Orleans…

Anchored by the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the country’s oldest public university, Chapel Hill seamlessly blends the quirk of a college town with the sophistication of a historic Southern community. Marked by both an eclectic edge and a genteel hospitality, the inviting hamlet beckons you in with its Southern charm and entices you to stay with its unapologetic individuality. As the western point of North Carolina’s famed Research Triangle, Chapel Hill sits only a short distance away from the much larger metropolises of Raleigh and Durham; however, this small-but-mighty community offers plenty in the way of dining, shopping, and culture to keep you entertained. Chapel Hill beckons you in with its Southern charm and entices you to stay with its unapologetic individuality. THERE’S NO BETTER REPRESENTATION of…

Watermelon Bayou Mule Makes 12 servings With the addition of rice vodka, this refreshing cocktail truly is a taste of Louisiana summer. 3 cups cubed seedless watermelon 24 ounces ginger beer* 12 ounces rice vodka* 9 ounces fresh lime juice Garnish: watermelon slices, lime slices 1. In the container of a blender, place watermelon; blend until smooth. Strain, reserving 1½ cups juice. 2. In a large pitcher, combine reserved 1½ cups watermelon juice, ginger beer, vodka, and lime juice. Serve over ice. Garnish with watermelon and lime wedges, if desired. *We used Fever-Tree Ginger Beer and Oryza Vodka. TIPS FOR CHOOSING THE PERFECT MELON 1. When buying cantaloupe or honeydew-type melons, your nose is the best indicator of the flavor that lies inside. They should have a strong, sweet smell…

MoonPie Ice Cream Cake MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS Created to satisfy a Kentucky coal miner’s desire for a “snack as big as the moon,” MoonPie’s layers of graham cookie, marshmallow, and chocolate are still a Southern favorite 100 years later. We brought this tasty treat into summer with this quick-fix loaf cake. 1 (1½-quart) container chocolate chip ice cream, softened 2 double-decker chocolate MoonPies, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 cups frozen whipped topping, thawed Garnish: chopped chocolate MoonPies 1. Line a 9x5-inch loaf pan with parchment paper or plastic wrap, letting excess extend over sides of pan. 2. Spread one-third of ice cream in bottom of prepared pan; sprinkle with half of chopped MoonPies. Repeat layers once. Spread remaining ice cream on top of loaf. Cover and freeze until firm.…

10 ANNIE’S CAFÉ Enterprise, Alabama 334-347-6622 Every Alabama school child learns the story of the Boll Weevil Monument in Enterprise, Alabama, honoring the pesky insect that forced local farmers to diversify in the early 1900s. But Enterprise is also the home of Annie’s Café, a down-home diner on the city’s Main Street. From country-fried steak to Korean BBQ burgers, Annie’s is a mix of Southern favorites and new dishes. Drop in the next time you visit the monument. 11 DAVE'S CARRY-OUT Charleston, South Carolina 843-577-7943 Step inside this unassuming blue-painted corner spot in downtown Charleston, South Carolina, for a true taste of the Lowcountry. Longtime expert cook and son of an original owner, Terry McGray serves up some of the city’s freshest shrimp, scallops, and fish fried to crispy, light…

Zucchini Streusel Bread MAKES 1 (8X4-INCH) LOAF The addition of buttermilk helps this bread rise as the milk’s natural acidity reacts with leavening agents, forming a tender crumb. STREUSEL ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 3 tablespoons granulated sugar 2 tablespoons light brown sugar ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted BREAD 2 cups all-purpose flour ¾ cup sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1½ cups shredded zucchini, squeezed dry 2/3 cup whole buttermilk 1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted 1 large egg 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray an 8x4-inch loaf pan with baking spray with flour. 2. For streusel: In a small bowl, whisk together flour, sugars, and salt. Add melted butter, and whisk until crumbly. Set aside. 3.…

VIRGINIA BORN BARBECUE AFICIONADO George “Tuffy” Stone’s career began far from the smoke and wood chips of the pit. In fact, his early training was as different from the competition barbecue scene as could be—learning classical French techniques at La Maisonette in Richmond, Virginia, under Chef Alain Vincey. After working his way up to the role of partner at La Maisonette, Tuffy branched off to start and manage a catering company with his wife, Leslie. But he couldn’t stay away from the food side of the business for long, and in 2004, Tuffy bought his first barbecue pit and never looked back. In your book, you say that your barbecue education began with a “backyard barbecue failure.” Tell us about that. I brought my first barbecue pit home in the…

1 TWO RIVERS TURNINGS ICE CREAM SCOOP Made in West Virginia, this gorgeous scoop’s black walnut handle and stainless steel “hawk” nose make ice cream scooping easy. Use it to dip into our delicious Coffee-Caramel Swirl Ice Cream or Blueberry-Basil Sherbet, both on page 59. $40; tworiversturnings.com 2 CONFITURAS JAM Jazz up your cheese board with spicy Jalapeño Pepper Jelly or sweet and smoky Blackberry Ketchup from Austin, Texas. Made in small batches with locally sourced ingredients, the flavors are fresh and vibrant. $10 for a (6-ounce) jar; confituras.net 3 SWEET GRASS DAIRY PIMENTO CHEESE Made with shredded Thomasville Tomme, Duke’s mayonnaise, Spanish piquillo peppers, and other spices, this crave-worthy pimento cheese has just the right amount of smoky flavor and perfect spreadable texture. $8 for a (6-ounce) package; sweetgrassdairy.com…

HER PICK: PIZZERIA MERCATO IN CARRBORO “Gabe Barker’s pizza spot across from the legendary Carrboro Farmers’ Market serves an ever-evolving menu of some of the best vegetables around.” HIS PICK: LIME & BASIL “I usually get either the Phó #7, which is the deluxe version, or the Saigon Street Noodles. A lot of the food is good for takeout. Very few things cost more than ten dollars.”…

1 JOANN CLEVENGER New Orleans, Louisiana  upperline.com In New Orleans, dining out isn’t just about the food, but the overall experience and the way it makes you feel. Few understand this better than Upperline restaurateur JoAnn Clevenger, who has brought happiness to countless customers through gracious hospitality and sublime cuisine. As the Uptown restaurant celebrated its 36th birthday in January, Upperline continues to provide the same impeccable service and warm environment that have made it a beloved institution in the Crescent City. 2 EDWARD LEE Louisville, Kentucky  leeinitiative.org When you’re just starting out in the restaurant industry, everyone appreciates a hand up. That’s the idea behind The LEE Initiative, a project of Louisville based chef Edward Lee and his partner, Lindsey Ofcacek. The LEE Initiative stands for Let’s Empower Employment,…

17 BRAVADO SPICE CO. Houston, Texas  bravadospice.com This isn’t your run-of-the-mill condiment. Each variety of this Texas company’s hot sauce is an ingenious blend of tongue-torching pepper with a sweet balance—think pineapple and habanero, serrano and basil, or ghost pepper and blueberry—that allows the true flavor of each pepper to shine through. 18 CAROLINA GROUND Asheville, North Carolina  carolinaground.com Serious bakers know that to create a quality product, you need to start with quality ingredients. That’s what drives Carolina Ground, an Asheville-based mill that focuses solely on sourcing grains grown in the South, and milling them the old-fashioned way. Led by Jennifer Lapidus, who spent 14 years as a professional baker milling her own flour before turning to grains full-time, Carolina Ground aims to preserve the flavor of all parts…

The heat of summer brings with it the first crates of deliciously ripe peaches. Covered in a velvety soft peel and emitting an intoxicating aroma that can attract throngs of people across a crowded farmers’ market, these delicate stone fruits are the highlight of the year’s hottest months. And next to nibbling on these little delights straight from the basket, there’s no better—or more iconic—way to savor peaches than by baking them into a pie. Topped with a second crust, a lattice design, or a simple crumble, pie has been part of Southerners’ recipe repertoires for generations. Although peaches were introduced to the region by Spanish explorers back in the 1500s, the tradition of pie baking didn’t come across the pond until the 1600s, when early English colonists came ashore—and…

This is a great method to use on a grill with meats that take longer to cook. Using a gas or charcoal grill, this method calls for a hot (or direct) cooking side, and a cooler (or indirect) cooking side. To set up 2-zone cooking for a gas grill, the grill must have more than one burner. You must turn one burner on low to medium heat to create the hot side, and turn the other burner off completely to create the cooler side. You can sear or brown the meat using the hot side, then move the meat over to the cooler side and continue to let the meat cook until done. The same 2-zone setup can be done with a charcoal grill by placing hot coals on only…