Innholdsfortegnelse for March - April 2018 i Taste of the South

AS THE FIRST TINY SPROUTS START PEEKING UP THROUGH THE SOIL, they come with the promise of an awakening that spreads across the land and onto our plates. Tucked away are the hearty comfort foods that nurtured and nourished us through winter’s chill. Spring arrives with a bright bounty of fresh and exciting flavors. Sweet and bright strawberries burst with color; peas and asparagus gleam green and crisp; fresh herbs beckon with their eye-opening flavors. It’s a palate-pleasing transition that we look forward to every year. By now, you’ve gotten to know your new Taste of the South magazine, and we hope you love it as much as we love making it for you. In this beautiful season, when the world around us is bursting into life, how wonderful it…

TIPS FOR FRESH RED RADISHES When buying red radishes, look for smaller ones, no bigger than a golf ball. Larger ones may be hollow or pithy. Wash radishes and remove the green tops before refrigerating them. Place in a plastic bag with a paper towel in the bottom to absorb moisture. They’ll stay fresh for about one week. You can also submerge radishes in ice water to keep them crisp. Radish Gratins MAKES 6 SERVINGS Creamy cheese balances the peppery radishes beautifully in these velvety gratins. 1 pound radishes with tops 2¾ teaspoons kosher salt, divided 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1½ cups half-and-half 1½ teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, divided ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 cup grated Gruyère cheese ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese 1 cup…

Chicken Thighs with Pimiento-Pecan Sauce MAKES 6 SERVINGS (photo on page 49) Pimientos replace the classic roasted red bell pepper in this Southern spin on Spanish romesco sauce, traditionally made with roasted red peppers and almonds. 2 (7-ounce) jars whole pimientos, drained ¼ cup pecan halves ¼ cup sun-dried tomatoes with herbs, drained 1 slice crusty French bread, torn (about 1 ounce) 5 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 2 medium cloves garlic 2 teaspoons smoked paprika 2½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided 6 bone-in skin-on chicken thighs 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 pound small Yukon gold potatoes, halved 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano 1/3 cup Castelvetrano olives Garnish: chopped fresh oregano, flaked sea salt Crusty French bread, to serve 1. Preheat oven…

LOUISIANA CRAWFISH BREAD MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS 1 (12-ounce) loaf French bread, halved lengthwise 2 tablespoons olive oil ½ pound andouille, finely chopped ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 4 tablespoons butter, divided ¾ cup thinly sliced leeks ½ cup thinly sliced celery ¾ cup finely chopped shallots 3 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup finely diced bell pepper 1 pound cooked Louisiana crawfish tails 1 tablespoon chopped fresh, flat-leaf parsley 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives 1 teaspoon dry mustard ¼ teaspoon ancho chile pepper 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened 1 cup shredded Monterey Jack & Cheddar cheese, divided ¾ cup shredded Italian cheese blend 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Remove soft centers of bread from both halves; reserve…

Franklin, Tennessee, may be tucked in the shadow of Nashville’s bright lights, but this idyllic town less than 20 miles from Music City shines plenty on its own. Named a Great American Main Street by the National Trust for Historic Preservation, the 16-block Victorian downtown district at the heart of the city is a picturesque dining and shopping destination. Mirroring Franklin’s blend of Southern hospitality, modern sophistication, and historic charm, the culinary scene offers a little something for everyone. Celebrating new and old is a hallmark of Franklin; it’s fresh and exciting while embracing the nostalgia of its past. START YOUR MORNING OFF near the town square at Frothy Monkey. The coffee shop and cafe is known for serving up one of the best cups of joe in the area,…

As a little girl, I loved to be the first to wake up on Easter Sunday at the farm. Just before dawn, I would tiptoe downstairs to peer out the kitchen window looking out over the fields glistening with dew. As the sun rose, draping gossamer sheets of rosy light over the sleepy cows and horses in the distance, I’d press my hands against the glass. I swear I could feel the land come alive beneath my fingers. I’d close my eyes and relive the day before—a Saturday spent with my ten cousins riding horses, running through the pastures, and weaving yellow buttercups into rings and necklaces until we couldn’t bear the smell of delicious food wafting from the kitchen any longer. My mother’s family is Greek, so holidays, and…

Flecked with shredded carrots, pineapple, and raisins, carrot cake is a sublime confection. Carrot cake likely got its start as a steamed pudding in Europe during the Middle Ages. German, Danish, and English immigrants brought their versions to North America when they settled in the New World. Carrot tea cakes were served to George Washington on November 25, 1783 at Fraunces Tavern in lower Manhattan as the British army evacuated New York. But the moist, tender cake we know today is a more recent gift from our British neighbors across the pond. During the 20th century’s two world wars, when sugar was rationed, resourceful British housewives used carrots to sweeten cakes. Returning soldiers brought the tradition home to the United States. It took a dose of American ingenuity to give…

LOUISIANA SEAFOOD ROYALTY For the last decade, chefs from throughout the Bayou State have competed against one another for the title of Seafood King or Queen of Louisiana at the Louisiana Seafood Cook-Off. Last year the cook-off—presented by the Louisiana Seafood Promotion and Marketing Board—moved from New Orleans to Lafayette, the heart of Cajun Country, and Chef Bonnie Breaux made history by becoming the first Queen of Louisiana Seafood. The competition is open to any Louisiana chef who is a member of the Louisiana Restaurant Association, and during their reign, the winner represents the state at events throughout the country. CRAWFISH TIME IS THE BEST TIME Starting as early as November, and typically lasting into June or early July, Louisiana’s crawfish season is one of the most eagerly anticipated times…

BY BETTY TERRY / RECIPES AND PHOTOS REPRINTED, WITH PERMISSION, FROM FOR THE LOVE OF THE SOUTH BY AMBER WILSON COPYRIGHT ©2018 BY AMBER WILSON REPRINTED COURTESY OF HARPER DESIGN, AN IMPRINT OF HARPERCOLLINS PUBLISHERS THUMBING THROUGH THE PAGES OF AMBER WILSON’S NEW COOKBOOK, it’s hard to believe that her childhood dream was to work for the space program. After writing her senior thesis in geography about how food defines the South, she turned down a job offer from NASA to pursue a career as a food writer. A self-taught home cook with an insatiable desire to honor the culinary culture of the South, she started her food blog, For the Love of the South, in 2012. In her new cookbook of the same name, she pays homage to her…

1 MONTICELLO WARM SEASON VEGETABLE SEED COLLECTION This tin comes stocked with an array of heirloom seeds to help create the Southern vegetable garden of your dreams. $26; monticelloshop.org 2 HOLMSTED FINES CHUTNEY Perfect for sweet or savory dishes, Rebecca Williamson’s richly sweet and mildly spicy chutney pumps up the flavor on any dish it touches. We used her peach chutney to create a gorgeous and delicious glaze for ham—see page 40 for the recipe. $9.99; holmstedfines.com 3 SALT CERAMICS BERRY BOWL Wheel-thrown by Nashville-based ceramicist Jess Cheatham, this simple glazed berry bowl brings an elegant touch to any countertop. Filled will fresh spring berries, it makes a beautiful centerpiece. $34; saltceramics.com 4 LE CREUSET 9½” CAST-IRON SHALLOW FRY PAN, MATTE WHITE Forged in France and shipped through Le Creuset’s…

TruBee Honey doesn’t pursue single-source nectars, opting instead for the complexity that comes from a variety of regional nectars and pollens. FOR LAURA KIMBALL AND JEFF OTTO, what began as piqued curiosity has blossomed into something much bigger—and sweeter—than they ever could've imagined. The husband-and-wife team behind TruBee Honey began their beekeeping career more than a decade ago with a single hive in their backyard. Today, they manage between 300 and 500 hives, producing more than 30,000 pounds of raw Tennessee honey each year. Kimball, a former reporter, developed a reluctant interest in beekeeping when she was assigned to write a feature story about a beekeeper in North Carolina. “It was fear meets beauty. Beauty meets order and intricacy. Total intrigue,” she says. “I didn’t know it at the time,…

Spring Pea Soup MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS A swirl of sour cream and a sprinkle of fresh dill make this soup look more like a work of art than a light lunch. 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 medium yellow onion, chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 small russet potato, peeled and chopped 2 pounds fresh or frozen green peas, thawed 2½ teaspoons kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper Sour cream, fresh dill, and ground black pepper, to serve 1. In a medium Dutch oven, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic; cook until just tender, about 5 minutes. Add broth and potatoes; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Add peas, salt,…

Leek and Parmesan Soufflé MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS Whipping egg whites with cream of tartar helps this soufflé stay tall and fluffy. 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened 3 tablespoons toasted bread crumbs ½ cup unsalted butter 1 cup chopped leek ½ cup all-purpose flour 1¼ cups whole milk ½ cup shredded fontina cheese ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 4 large eggs, separated 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard ¾ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar Garnish: chopped fresh dill 1. Preheat oven to 400°. Brush the inside of a 1½-quart soufflé dish with 1 tablespoon softened butter. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, turning to coat bottom and sides of dish. Discard excess bread crumbs. Place dish on a rimmed baking…

IN DAYS GONE BY, diners ruled the breakfast scene. And though trendy, upscale brunch venues have recently stolen the spotlight from these “greasy spoons” of yesteryear, the comfort of those down-home joints still sticks with us. The smell of sizzling bacon wafting from the kitchen, the fluffy biscuits doused with creamy sausage gravy, the pools of warm syrup that drench a plateful of buttermilk pancakes—we crave it all. When we’re feeling nostalgic for those hearty breakfasts of our childhood, we get our fix at one of these 12 spots. 1 BIG ED’S CITY MARKET Raleigh, North Carolina Everything at Big Ed’s City Market oozes character, from the décor to the down-home menu. Order the Bacon and Cheddar Omelet with a side of buttery, crunchy grilled biscuits—you can thank us later.…

What makes Louisiana crawfish great? Louisiana crawfish have such a great flavor— and so much fat. The fat is where the flavor is, and it helps make a great stew or gravy. What’s your favorite crawfish dish? Crawfish boils are my favorite because you can do so many fun things with them. A traditional Cajun boil has potatoes, garlic and corn thrown into the pot with the seasonings and crawfish. And I’ve gone places where they’ve put a whole pork roast in the pot, or hot dogs and sausage, and all kinds of things. It’s fun to see how creative people get with their crawfish boils. What crawfish dishes do you like to cook? I’m from the crawfish capital of the world, Breaux Bridge, and am getting ready to open…