Innholdsfortegnelse for October - November 2009 i Taste of the South

I’M AN ALABAMA GIRL, BUT I MUST CONFESS THAT I really enjoy traveling to Virginia. And Williamsburg is one of my all-time-favorite places, especially during the annual festivities that usher in the holiday season. But recently, photographer Kamin Hoyle Williams and I travelled to this fair town during its “off-season,” if there is such a thing. And what we found was a place brimming with Virginia’s best—great food, great people, and great places to stay. The Williamsburg Inn was fantastic, and the recently renovated Williamsburg Lodge was lovely. Under the direction of Executive Chef Rhys Lewis, the food at both hotels was absolutely delicious. Fortunately for us, Chef Rhys prepared a fantastic seasonal menu, which he shares beginning on page 36 of this issue. Although I have been to Williamsburg…

brined herb-roasted turkey Yield: 8 to 10 servings Preparation: 30 minutes Brine: 24 hours Refrigerate: 8 hours or overnight Bake: approximately 31⁄2 hours Rest: 15 minutes 2 gallons cold water, divided 1 cup kosher salt 8 bay leaves 2 tablespoons rainbow peppercorns 2 tablespoons whole allspice 1 tablespoon juniper berries 1 (16-pound) turkey, giblets and neck removed 1 recipe Herb Butter (Recipe follows.) 3 to 4 cups chicken broth Garnish: persimmons, crabapples, quartered fresh artichokes, Forelle pears, and fresh herbs PLACE a 13-gallon plastic bag inside another one of the same size. Place bags in an extra-large pot or bowl. Set aside. IN A LARGE SAUCEPAN, combine 1 quart water, salt, bay leaves, peppercorns, allspice, and juniper berries. Cook over medium heat, stirring until salt dissolves. Remove from heat. Add…

WILLIAMSBURG. JUST THE MENTION of this historic Virginia town conjures up visions of beautiful 18th-century buildings and costumed interpreters. For some, it may bring back memories of meals in the area’s colonial taverns and the sounds of a fife and drum corps or a strolling balladeer. But for those fortunate enough to have stayed in one of Colonial Williamsburg’s Resort Collection hotels like the Williamsburg Inn or the Williamsburg Lodge, thoughts of exquisite accommodations and delicious food surely abound. Executive Chef Rhys Lewis has been at the helm of the restaurants at the Williamsburg Lodge and conference center for three years. And though he hails from Wisconsin, he admits to having fallen in love with Virginia. “I love the state’s wines, water, and weather,” says Chef Rhys (pronounced Reece), who…

Salads GRAND PRI ZE WINNER CHEF BRETT BLUTE SAN LUIS OBISPO, CALIFORNIA rio star grapefruit and roasted baby beet salad Recipe development by Brett Blute, San Luis Obispo, California Yield: 4 servings Preparation: 20 minutes Cook: 45 minutes Cool: 30 minutes 1 pound baby red beets, washed and tops trimmed to 1⁄2 inch 3⁄4 cup light olive oil, divided 1⁄3 cup Rio Star grapefruit juice 2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard 1⁄4 teaspoon salt 8 cups loosely packed arugula or butter lettuce 2 Rio Star grapefruits, peeled and sectioned 1⁄4 cup toasted pine nuts 1⁄4 teaspoon ground black pepper 2 ounces crumbled goat cheese PREHEAT oven to 350°. PLACE beets on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 1⁄4 cup olive oil. BAKE until beets are fork tender, approximately 45 minutes. Remove from…

new orleans bread pudding Yield: 8 to 10 servings Preparation: 10 minutes Bake: 1 hour 1⁄2 cup butter, softened 1 cup sugar 5 large eggs 2 cups heavy cream 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 loaves French bread, crusts removed and bread cut into 1⁄2-inch cubes 1⁄2 cup raisins 1 recipe Jack Daniels Sauce (Recipe follows.) PREHEAT oven to 350°. LIGHTLY GREASE a 3-quart glass or ceramic baking dish; set aside. IN A BOWL, beat butter and sugar by hand with a spoon. Add eggs, heavy cream, vanilla, and cinnamon. ADD half of bread cubes to bowl. Beat at low speed with an electric mixer. As bread begins to break up, add more bread to bowl until mixture becomes like a damp (but not too wet) mush.…

OK, LET’S ADMIT IT. AT ONE TIME or another, we’ve all found ourselves in the same predicament. Payday is still several days away and the cupboard is almost bare, but we still have to put something together for dinner. Necessity may be the mother of invention, but in Janet Walker’s case, it was desperation that inspired her corn casserole. “It was a few days before payday,” the Hoover, Alabama, resident recalls, “and the balance in my checking account was a little low.” Preparing to make supper, Janet checked her pantry and refrigerator to see what ingredients she had on hand. She came up with a package of frozen corn, a can of diced tomatoes, a block of cream cheese, and a can of cream of mushroom soup. “I thought, ‘Wow,…

IT HAS BEEN SAID THAT YOU CAN TELL TRUE Southerners by the way they react to the aroma of greens cooking on the stove. The process produces a distinctively pungent scent that is pure olfactory bliss to those of us who love collards, or any other greens, slow-simmered with ham hocks or bacon until they are tender and tasty. Though greens are available year-round, they are at their height of deliciousness during the cold months. With the season’s first frost upon us, now is the best time to find these vitamin-and-mineral-packed greens to make the traditional Southern side dishes we love so much. Yes, they require a few extra swishes in water to remove the grit that tends to cling to the leaves, but knowing what savory delights lie ahead,…

Going Green the Southern Way Whether they’re simmered with ham hocks, stuffed in a pork tenderloin, or sautéed with almonds, greens are a favorite throughout the South. Check out our recipes for these tasty Southern favorites. And the Finalists Are... Juicy and sweet, Texas Rio Star grapefruit takes the pucker out of this wintertime citrus treat. For delicious uses, check out the finalists’ recipes from the Texas Rio Star Grapefruit Recipe challenge. TASTE OF THE SOUTH is now on twiter TWEET is now on with us at www.twitter.com/tastemag.…

#1 Make a savory salad. turkey salad Yield: 4 servings Preparation: 10 minutes 1 head Bibb lettuce, washed 4 cups shredded cooked turkey 1⁄2 cup chopped pecans 16 orange segments 1 recipe Cranberry Vinaigrette (Recipe follows.) IN A LARGE BOWL, combine lettuce, turkey, pecans, and orange segments. DRIZZLE Cranberry Vinaigrette over lettuce mixture, tossing gently to combine. cranberry vinaigrette Yield: approximately 1⁄2 cup Preparation: 5 minutes 3 tablespoons whole-berry cranberry sauce 2 tablespoons raspberry vinegar 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil IN A SMALL BOWL, combine cranberry sauce and vinegar, whisking well. Slowly pour in olive oil, whisking to combine. Refrigerate until serving time. #2 Bake it in a dish. turkey casserole Yield: 10 to 12 servings Preparation: 15 minutes Bake: 45 minutes 2 cups sliced mushrooms 1 cup chopped celery…

THE FOOD SCENE OF RICHMOND, VIRGINIA, REFLECTS THE CHARM AND DUALITY OF THIS CITY that was once hailed as the Capital of the Confederacy. With a population of roughly 1.2 million, Richmond keeps one foot proudly, and perhaps stubbornly at times, in the past, while the influx of new residents from larger metropolitan areas and other countries stretches the taste buds of this conservative town. Award-winning chefs are creating dazzling menus, and artisanal food practices are being rediscovered. In Richmond, the old and the new coexist, with the new kids on the block nodding their heads respectfully to the past. I think you’ll agree that Richmond is full of delicious surprises. WHERE TO EAT “People come here because they know what to expect, but they have no idea what they…

Let’s Gather Together Pages 12–20: Centerpiece, mantel decorations, and pumpkin vases by Studio Flower, 205-915-3849, www.studioflower.com; glasses by Pottery Barn, 888-779-5176, www.potterybarn.com; “Butler’s Pantry” china by Lenox, 800-223-4311, www.lenox.com. Ironstone oval vegetable dishes available at The Brown House, 877-604-8600, www.elegantcottageliving.com. Ironstone oval relish dish available at Attic Antiques, 5620 Cahaba Valley Rd., Birmingham, AL 35242, 205-991-6887; ceramic bread basket available at Macy’s, 800-289-6229, macys.com. Location courtesy of Jan and Gary Moon. Got Leftovers? Pages 22–27: Red ovenproof mug by Bialetti, available at Target, 800-591-3869, www.target.com. Visions of Williamsburg Pages 34–39 Tavern check tablecloth available at Williamsburg Craft House, 402 W. Duke of Gloucester St., Williamsburg, VA 23185, 757-220-7747; tavern check fabric by Waverly available at Williamsburg At Home, 439 W. Duke of Gloucester St., Williamsburg, VA 23185, 757-220-7749; Kings Arms…

Perfecting Cooked Caramel Icing The article about Lorna Reeves’ mom and her special caramel icing was very enjoyable [August/September 2009, page 72]; so much so that I decided to try the recipe. I was slightly apprehensive about having two things cooking at the same time, but to my amazement, both mixtures cooked exactly as the recipe said. The 4-minute timing was unbelievably accurate! I iced my favorite yellow cake with it and received rave reviews from my family and friends. Thanks so much for sharing! —Cathy Coe via e-mail The recipe for Linda’s Cooked Caramel Icing, featured in your August/September 2009 magazine, was a disaster. I followed the recipe to the letter and was unable to spread the icing on the cake. It remained a liquid much like the consistency…

bourbon-glazed spice cake Yield: 10 to 12 servings Preparation: 20 minutes Bake: 1 hour 20 minutes Cool: approximately 1 hour 1 large butternut squash, cut in half lengthwise 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1⁄2 teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 2 teaspoons ground ginger 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cloves 1⁄2 cup plus 6 tablespoons butter, softened and divided 2 cups firmly packed brown sugar, divided 2 large eggs 1⁄2 cup orange juice 1⁄4 cup bourbon 1 cup heavy cream 1 cup powdered sugar PREHEAT oven to 400°. Spray a baking sheet with cooking spray; set aside. SCOOP out and discard squash seeds. Place squash, cut side down, on prepared baking sheet. BAKE until tender, approximatley 40 minutes. When cool enough to handle, scoop out…

“Here is this barbecue that is not expensive, not pretentious . . .” LYNCHBURG, VIRGINIA, NATIVE TUFFY STONE HAS BEEN PART of the Richmond food scene for almost 20 years. In 1993, he and his wife, Leslie, founded A Sharper Palate, a fine-dining catering company. A decade later, he became involved in competition barbecue, which inspired his restaurant, Q Barbeque. Tuffy invited Taste of the South to his home, where he shared a bit about his life and, in hushed tones, his secrets to great smoked ribs. Where did you get the name Tuffy? My nickname, “Tuffy,” came from my mother, Charlotte. My real name is George, after my father. My mom didn’t want two Georges in the house, so she nicknamed me when I was 2 years old. How…