THE TOWN OF SCHRIEVER LIES deep in south Louisiana, well south of the bustle of New Orleans and Baton Rouge, and past bayous, cane fields, chemical plants, moss-heavy oaks, and towns with thick French names. It’s not uncommon for locals to slide a lilting mais, chere! into conversation or to position statuettes of the Virgin Mary in their front yards. But Schriever’s best defining feature is likely its Cajun meat market, a Web-site-free outpost founded 117 years ago.
This time of year, the line at Bourgeois’ Meat Market can be 20 deep as a cross-section of the community queues up for boudin, andouille, tasso, smoked sausage, hog’s head cheese, fried cracklins, and beef jerky. Such well-seasoned goods are the trappings of any respectable south Louisiana Cajun butcher, but few can…