Innholdsfortegnelse for January - February 2018 i Taste of the South

ROLLED, DROP, CAT HEAD, BUTTERMILK, ANGEL—I love them all. I love them hot from the oven, so hot they’ll melt a fridge-cold pat of butter in less than 12 seconds. I love them with strawberry jam, or blackberry jam, or peach jam…okay, basically any jam—especially when it mixes together with the melting butter. Sweet, salty, buttery, flaky, and fruity—it’s like your very own breakfast cobbler. Pure heaven. My love for biscuits goes beyond the joy they bring to my taste buds. I love to make biscuits. I’m the first one to disclaim any talents in the baking realm—I’m a cook, not a baker. But I love the hands-on process of bringing biscuits to life. First, I commit to the mess. I can’t even think about using flour without getting it…

LOWCOUNTRY OYSTER FESTIVAL January 28 | Mount Pleasant, South Carolina With more than 80,000 pounds of fresh, Lowcountry oysters, this festival showcases one of the South’s favorite bivalves. Celebrating its 35th year, the Lowcountry Oyster Festival is the world’s largest oyster festival, and includes not only oysters by the bushel, but contests, live music, and a variety of other food and fun. Don’t miss the crowd-favorite oyster shucking and eating contest. charlestonrestaurantassociation.com GUILD Austin, Texas The ocean waves may be hundreds of miles away, but thanks to chef Sterling Ridings, you’ll soon be able to enjoy amazing seafood in this hip Texas city. You can look forward to a variety of cooked and raw options, plus plenty of breezy patio seating. guildaustin.com HAYMAKER Charlotte, North Carolina Chef William Dissen will…

PETER DALE owner, The National and Seabear Oyster Bar HIS PICK: Food for the Soul. It’s a classic meat-and-three, and the sides are especially good–never an afterthought. GENA KNOX cookbook author, Fire & Flavor founder HER PICK: Ted’s Most Best. It’s great for families. The pizzas are wood fired and the roasted beet salad is my fave! CHERI LEAVY co-founder, The Southern Coterie HER PICK: The National. My favorite dish is the Power Lunch. It’s healthy and delicious and changes with the seasons.…

Lemon Fried Chicken MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS The salt in the brine helps the chicken absorb the lemon flavor, resulting in a zesty twist on this Southern staple. 1½ cups whole buttermilk 2 tablespoons kosher salt, divided 1 tablespoon hot sauce 1 (3½-pound) whole chicken, cut into pieces 2 lemons, sliced 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons ground black pepper 1 teaspoon lemon zest Peanut oil, for frying Garnish: chopped fresh rosemary, lemon wedges 1. In a large bowl, stir together buttermilk, 1 tablespoon salt, and hot sauce. Add chicken and lemon slices; cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours. 2. In a shallow dish, whisk together flour, pepper, zest and remaining 1 tablespoon salt. Dredge chicken and lemon slices in flour mixture,…

Nothing is more satisfying than a hot biscuit, fresh from the oven, with butter melting down its sides. While everyone has their own special tricks and techniques, we’ve polled some of the best bakers in the South for their tips on making the perfect biscuit. Combined with our delicious recipes, they’ll have you serving up light, flaky biscuits in no time. Buttermilk Biscuits MAKES 12 These perfect biscuits are rich, buttery, flaky, and ready for your favorite filling. 3½ cups all-purpose flour* 2 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda 1¼ cups cold unsalted butter, cubed 1 cup cold whole buttermilk 1 large egg, beaten Flaked sea salt 1. Preheat oven to 425°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. In a…

TAKE A DRIVE ALONG THE DOWNTOWN STREETS of most Southern cities, and you’re bound to spot beautiful brick buildings around almost every corner. But too often these architectural gems carry just a whisper of their heyday splendor. But for some of these forgotten buildings, the windows that have been dark for years are being illuminated once more. These grand buildings are being given new life, and a major driving force behind this revitalization is the South’s love of—and talent for—good food and good community. In recent years, food halls have exploded across the Southern food scene. Reminiscent of the classic mall food court, these halls feature a variety of restaurant options sharing a common dining space. But make no mistake—this isn’t food court fare. Each concept is unique and helmed…

MY GREAT-GRANDMOTHER’S name was Margaret Lyon, and we never actually met. As I was coming into this world, Munny, as she was known, was leaving it. I like to think our souls met in passing, exchanging a brief “how do you do,” that we’ll recall one day in the great hereafter. From all family accounts, she was a great cook, but not much of a sentimentalist. She left behind just a few heirlooms; culinary artifacts that we still treasure. I have only one of her possessions—her wooden rolling pin. Nobody knows where she got it, or even who passed it down to her. But you can feel its age when you hold it in your hands. It was carved from a single block of wood, its handles darkened from years…

Sarah and Karl Worley originally dreamed of having a hot chicken food truck, but, boy, are we glad they changed their minds. Their biscuit-themed brunch spot is one of the most popular in Nashville thanks to their passion for the perfect Southern breakfast staple. Who taught you to make biscuits? SARAH: Karl. KARL: My grandmother made drop biscuits Monday through Saturday and angel biscuits on Sundays, so I learned from her. Why did you decide to build a business based on biscuits? SARAH: When arguing over which food to go with when opening our food truck, Karl asked me what my favorite food he made was, and then the answer was simple: Biscuits. KARL: I like to say that it was a great resolution to a marital dispute. How do…

OYSTER STEW MAKES 4 SERVINGS 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 cup finely chopped sweet yellow onion ½ cup finely chopped celery ⅓ cup finely chopped shallot 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 (8-ounce) package fresh white button mushrooms, sliced 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided 4 cups heavy whipping cream ½ cup dry white wine ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ¼ teaspoon ground white pepper 1 pound fresh oysters, shucked, drained (reserve oyster liquor*), and halved 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice ½ teaspoon hot sauce 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley Garnish: lemon zest, chopped cooked bacon 1. In a large Dutch oven, heat butter over medium heat. Add flour; cook, stirring constantly, until a light tan roux forms, 2 to 3 minutes. Add onion,…

“I like that the pieces have a history, and by making them into something new, I keep that history going.”— WILL MANNING WILL MANNING’S DAILY LIFE is filled with a cacophony of sounds and sights—hammers clanging, red-hot steel glowing, a shower of sparks flying from a blade being pressed to the grinder. But it’s among this clamor in his Athens, Georgia, workshop that he finds peace in crafting exquisitely detailed Heartwood Forge knives. As the owner and blacksmith, Will doesn’t source his materials from a supplier or even a salvage shop—he meets up with people, knocks on doors in the middle of the country, and stops at roadside sales to gather old steel saw blades and other items to repurpose in his shop. “I just like the idea of taking…

Savory Shepherd’s Pie with Whipped Sweet Potatoes MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS A gift from our British brethren, this hearty casserole is a great way to transform leftover sweet potatoes into a company-worthy supper. 1 pound ground sirloin 1 pound ground pork 2 cups pearl onions 1 cup diced carrot 1 cup English peas 1 (15-ounce) can crushed tomatoes ½ cup beef broth 6 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons tomato paste 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons dried thyme 1 teaspoon dried basil 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 4 large sweet potatoes, peeled, cooked, and mashed 1/3 cup heavy whipping cream 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 2- to 3-quart baking dish with cooking spray. 2. In a large skillet, cook…

Country Captain Butter Chicken MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS Southern tradition says this spicy curry dish, which originated in India, was brought to Savannah, Georgia, in the early 1800s by a British sea captain of the East India Company. 1 lemon, juiced 1 teaspoon curry powder 2 pounds boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced 2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and minced 1 cinnamon stick 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, undrained ½ cup golden raisins 1 teaspoon smoked paprika ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ cup heavy whipping cream Butter Crunch Rice (recipe on page 88 ) Garnish: chopped green onion, sliced almonds 1. In a large bowl, stir together lemon juice and curry powder…

The South’s original one-pot supper 1 Spanish Chicken and Rice page 100 2 Chicken and Rice Soup page 101 3 Lemon-Artichoke Chicken and Rice page 100 4 Chicken Bog page 97 5 Chicken, Rice, and Smoked Sausage Stuffed Collard Rolls page 101 Here in the South, where rice remains a supper staple and traditional dishes are treated with the greatest reverence, we have a special love for this hearty dish—and more than a dozen ways of preparing it. From Chicken Perlo (also known as pilau or pilaf) to Charleston and Savannah’s curry-scented Country Captain to Chicken Bog (a dish so beloved in South Carolina that every region from the northeastern Pee Dee to the southern Lowcountry lay claim to it), this affordable one-pot supper has been a pillar of Southern…

 There’s more than music on the menu in this college town. Anchored by a beautifully restored, Victorian-esque downtown, charming historic districts, and, of course, the University of Georgia, Athens has an eclectic, boisterous personality that shines brightest in its booming food scene. While you’ve likely heard of Chef Hugh Acheson’s famed Five and Ten restaurant that has shaped the careers of some of the South’s best chefs, it’s just the beginning of the story for this college town that has graduated with culinary honors. Turn the page to dig in to our tops spots for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. ONE OF OUR FAVORITE WAYS to kick off a day in Athens is with coffee and doughnuts at Ike & Jane Cafe and Bakery on Prince Avenue. From classic glazed to…

Turnips have been part of the human diet for more than two millenia. In the South, steaming bowls of turnip greens often grace our tables, but the root end of the vegetable is great for pickling and adding to soups and stews. TIPS Fresh sweet turnips are available from winter through spring. Look for small turnips that are heavy for their size with lush green tops. The roots should be firm without blemishes, and the greens should be brightly colored and fresh-looking. Place whole turnips (roots and greens) in plastic bags and store in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Chicken Soup with Turnip Dumplings MAKES 6 SERVINGS Fluffy turnip dumplings make this soup a hearty supper for chilly winter nights. SOUP: 1 (4- to 5-pound) whole chicken, giblets…

Winter White Buttermilk Cupcakes MAKES 24 Buttermilk creates a super tender texture in these light and fluffy cupcakes. CUPCAKES: ¾ cup unsalted butter, softened 1½ cups sugar 3 large eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 cup all-purpose flour 1½ cups cake flour 1¾ teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup whole buttermilk FROSTING: 1 cup unsalted butter, softened 3 ounces cream cheese, softened 1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste 2½ cups confectioners’ sugar 1 tablespoon whole buttermilk 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line 24 muffin cups with paper liners. 2. For cupcakes: In a large bowl, beat butter and sugar with a mixer at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.…

1 HEAT CREAM TO 70° Add buttermilk; let stand overnight. Uncover and stir. 2 USE A FOOD PROCESSOR to process mixture until butter and cream separate, about 4 minutes. 3 STRAIN MIXTURE through fine mesh sieve lined with layers of cheesecloth. 4 KNEAD BUTTER SOLIDS Wipe up released liquid; rinse under cold water. Repeat 3 times. 5 KNEAD BUTTER AGAIN Add salt, if desired. 6 PACK INTO CONTAINER Cover and refrigerate.…

Your first macaroni and cheese probably came out of a blue box. Most of ours did. And though it was nothing fancy, from that first melty bite, you were probably hooked. Then somewhere along the way you experienced all that mac and cheese could be—with creamy béchamel, a bevy of cheeses, and toppings galore. After one forkful of the good stuff, you knew that boxed mac would never suffice. When we’re craving that kind of dreamy, layered flavor, we head to one of these 12 places. 1 SOUL FISH CAFE Locations in Tennessee & Arkansas This chain of upscale diners serves up comfort food with surprising soul. With a sauce-like texture, the melty cheese covers every single noodle. soulfishcafe.com 2 CAPDEVILLE New Orleans, Louisiana Nothing is ordinary at this New…