Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2015 i Surfing World Magazine

I grew up surfing at New Brighton on the New South Wales Far North Coast. Newy is situated not quite halfway along the stretch of sand that runs from the Pass in Byron all the way up to Hastings Point. There are two river mouths of note, one at Brunswick Heads, just south of Newy and another a fair bit further north at Pottsville, but other than that, it’s mostly just miles of empty white beach. The way the banks form at Newy has remained pretty much the same since I first paddled out there as a grom: chunky shorey, deep gully, and then an outer bank that rips will cut through here and there providing, on the right day, pretty decent waves. Almost all the surfing you do at…

Ever since Jesus invented cameras back in 1102 BC, people have used the device to capture images of themselves standing in front of things. The Eiffel Tower, Niagara Falls and the fake Ayers Rock on the highway just outside of Newcastle, have long been popular things to be photographed standing in front of, as are departure gates at the airport and fountains… in parks. But what’s the point of having a photo of yourself standing in front of something that everyone else has already been photographed standing in front of? Wouldn’t it be better to be photographed standing in front of something nobody has ever stood in front of? Sounds impossible but this is easily achieved if you know how to make your very own photo wall and today I’m…

Seems fitting, what with all this spooky shark shit going down, that I should share with you one of my own close encounters with the angry dog in the grey pyjamas. You see, on my last trip to South Australia I saw a 20-foot Great White eat a seal less than 200 metres from where I’d just been surfing. Did I mention the seal was a cute little baby seal with wide innocent eyes and long fishy whiskers? And did I tell you the Great White was the size of a Russian submarine and when it chomped into the doomed little pile of fur the front half of the seal fell off into the water before quickly disappearing in a thrashing, boiling mess of red and white ocean? And did…

For those of us in the southern states of the southern hemisphere, it’s flu season. So when you sit down with Nurse Ratchett and she jabs a horse needle in your quivering noodle-arm to ward off the lurgies, consider this: you’re far better off changing the way you shake hands, as the traditional male, corporate phallocentric paradigm-type handshake is in fact a 24-carat germ transmitter. You may as well hand the other party a cup of snot. And there are alternatives to the standard version. You know there are, because we’ve all been caught out greeting a fellow surfer with one half of a polite bland-shake, only to have him or her set up a complex sequence of fist bump/shaka/lock-and-fly into junk-squeeze/finger-pistols to daps explosion. Such moments, known formally as…

Cool cover… Unnamed ‘Cole of California’ girl. Cool old school sexism… “Miss Surfrider Contest wherein a New South Wales surf girl will win a fabulous expenses paid trip to the International Championships at Makaha Beach, Hawaii, next December to act as a “cheer squad” for our Australian competitors” Cool caption… Barry “Ugh” Andreas whose big ride started the new name for Green Knob. Cool description of swimming restriction in the 1880’s… “The local policeman, with his turned-up nose and his Irish brogue, took to strolling around after seven every morning to rebuke the shameless who affronted the clear light of day.” Cool sad story… “Freddie Williams was the surfer’s hero and yet, with the passing of the years, he deserted them all and retreated into the isolation of a little…

I suffered a severe case of generation envy reading Bill Finnegan’s memoir, Barbarian Days. Finnegan and his mate camped on Tavarua for eight weeks in 1978, surfing alone, eating out of tin cans, laughing at their dumb luck. Their experience is hard to fathom in today’s world. Eight weeks on Tavarua would skin me $30,000, and it feels like the surfing gold rush ended a decade ago, if not two. But Tavarua was just a drop in the ocean of Finnegan’s travels. He grew up between California and Hawaii at a time when surfboards halved and surfing became unrecognisable. He surfed Honolua Bay on acid, island hopped through the Pacific, lived at Kirra, camped at Cactus, and got into Uluwatu and Lagundri early before heading widely through Asia, Africa and…

SW : Thick moustache with flat top combo or ponytail with South American hoop earrings deal? JP: I’d take the moustache and flat-top. It’d be like 2002 all over again. Full Greasy and Lemmy. Only 70s style single fins on tour. Who’s World Champ and what happens at Chopes? Ricardo Christie would be the World Champ. He’d turn into Terry Fitzgerald, the full sultan, and he’d be unbeatable. As for Chopes, first one to make the drop and survive wins. You can surf any session from your life over again? Where and when? I’d go straight back to the big day at Fiji but with a bigger board. That was as good as surfing will ever get I reckon. Same crew too. They were the best big wave riders…

Albe Falzon Spiritual & Filmmaking Guru Look the other way - never had a bad surf... Barton Lynch 1988 World Champion Head to the beach and hit the reset button. With practice you can do this while still in the line-up but at the start hitting the beach helps. Bob McTavish Godfather of Board Crafting Be thankful you don’t live in Iran or Soweto Joel Parkinson 2012 World Champion Turn. You’re only ever one turn away from a good surf, just lower the bar, feel your board slice through the water, and appreciate things aren’t really that bad after all. Layne Beachley X7 World Champion Give yourself a task to fulfill such as completing a close out re-entry or roundhouse cutback. Keep it simple and slow everything down mentally and…

Singlefin: Yellow A 2003 movie about a big board on a big journey, Single Fin Yellow is the narrative of a singlefin made by Tyler Hatzikian that is posted to six different surfers in California, Hawaii, Australia, Mexico and Japan. The movie is made by Jason Buffa and has the kind of slow paced aesthetic to filter the surf experience through a pair of rose coloured glasses. We highly recommend watching this movie if the shark hype of late has got you rattled or if you’re seeking inspiration to quit your job and live in a shack made out of palm fronds on the beach front, making boards made out of trees that died from natural causes and surfing water that never gets cold. Land And Sea – Ziggy Alberts…