How many times in your life have you come in from a surf and thought, “Wait a minute... I think that was the best surf I’ve ever had?” If you’re anything like me, (easily pleased, realistic about performance, happy to be out there, old enough to wear a surf hat without being ridiculed) it might be as often as every surf. If you expect slightly more of yourself or your equipment, or of the behaviour of other people in the line-up, or of the conditions… then perhaps those “best surf ever” moments are a little fewer and further between. Regardless of how often or not they happen though, they definitely exist for everyone.
However, I was recently reminded that there is a significant difference between sitting in the line-up feeling…