Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2016 i Surfing World Magazine

“MATE, HE WAS GONE. BLUE AS. GONE.” Mick Fanning walked in and did something I’ve never seen him do in 20 years. He went straight for the refrigerator, pulled out a two litre party bottle of Coca-Cola, unscrewed the lid, and chugged half of it down like it was mother’s milk. He put the bottle back on the shelf, closed the fridge and sat down, staring wordlessly out at Pipeline, his forehead furrowed and his gaze melting. I’d seen him drink his bodyweight in beer before, but not that shit, never the Black Death. That skinny white body is a temple. It struck me as one of the most unusual things I’d seen in a while, but then again this has been a year for Mick Fanning that “unusual” don’t…

“BUILDING INTO FIRST REEF, THE WALL STOPPING DEAD WHILE THE LIP CATAPULTED MURDEROUSLY FORWARD.” I was walking down from the north to see Pipe under a swell. From the Rocky Point side, through the shaded carpark with its giant pickups and the pineapple juice guy, emerging into bright sun. A huge crowd, maybe a couple of thousand people of all ages and nationalities crowded in front of the peak. Selfies with the warning signs. Furtive arse-checking behind sunnies. A stadium with no gates and no seats. I stopped just north of the partially-completed judging tower for the Pipe Masters, and picked my way between spectators to the highest slope at the back of the beach, trying to get an angle into the barrel. I’d been to Waimea earlier in the…

“I HAD THE PLEASURE OF LISTENING TO TWO OLD BOYS WITH FISHING RODS AND BUCKETS TALKING ABOUT THE COMING SWELL AND THE SOARING PRICE OF PINEAPPLES.” Iwasn’t going. A group of friends had hired a luxe pad directly in front of the west peak at Sunset and were sending cruel photos. A cold beer with a plus-size righthander in the background. Swaying palms over an empty beach. Etcetera. Then a few things fell together and at the last moment, I found myself on a plane. There had been no chance to line up interviews, no agenda, no chance even to pack the most basic of equipment. One minute you’re in the nosebleed section of the Tulla departure gates: the next, you’re in The Cauldron. With no thongs. At first the…

1 TEX PERKINS /Phil Jamieson Surf Music In Paradise: Tex Perkins (Beasts, Cruel Sea, Dark Horses etc) & Phil Jamieson (Grinspoon) are playing 6X shows in 7 days at Hidden Valley Resort, Bali this September 5-12. Tickets are selling fast, so get in now & enjoy this truly unique opportunity to surf all day & groove & socialize at Tex & Phil’s gigs at night. 2 PETE MURRAY At kandooma Surf Music In Paradise: Sitting less than 10 metres from the stage on a bean bag, a cold drink in hand, friends & family nearby, socializing & surfing with the muso’s & like-minded fans is unbeatable. Join Pete at Kandooma in June 2016 for 3 x gigs in 7 days & surf & groove till you drop. 3 OCCY Go…

Two days after Billy Kemper won the Pe’ahi Challenge he was on the North Shore of Oahu, sitting easily on the back stoop of his sponsor’s house overlooking Off The Wall. The waves were an unimpressive four-foot. Gabe Medina was out flicking air reverses. Light trades ruffled the palm fronds overhead. With no inclination of surfing this day, Billy was a man who, in the last 48 hours, had achieved the crowning achievement of his young surfing life. In the yard next door, the ever-jazzed Herbie Fletcher scurried about trying to get everyone in place for his annual Wave Warriors shoot. “We can’t do this thing until Eddie [Rothman] gets here. I just called him,” twanged Herb. A who’s who of Pipe aficionados mingled, bullshitted, sipped from free cans of…

“JUST A LITTLE BIT OF BAD LUCK OUT THERE AND SOMEONE WOULD HAVE DROWNED VERY EASILY. THE CONSEQUENCES ARE SO REAL.” Shane Dorian is beat. His voice is scratchy and his breathing heavy. It’s two days since he and a bunch of other legends surfed the biggest and cleanest Jaws session in history, and only a month since he miraculously landed a big ol’ shifty from the lip of a wave that was every inch north of 50 foot. He surfed Jaws again yesterday for a bit of fun but today the swell is gone and the strange readjustment to life without the immediate threat of death is only just beginning to settle in. The 43-year-old is 25 minutes from hitting the hay when SW calls him at his home…

“Nobody knows how good she is,” prophetically said Chris Moore. Eventual three-time WSL Women’s World Champion Carissa Moore, then 12 years old, sat by her dad’s side and unassumingly doodled on her placemat while we got acquainted. It was lunchtime in Town, we huddled in a booth at Auntie Pastas to conduct what would be Carissa’s first interview for Surfer Magazine. She’d just put in a breakout performance at Haleiwa and the world had yet to meet the bubbly little girl. Eleven years later, Carissa is now 23 years old, the undisputed best woman in surfing, and I still wonder if she knows how good she is. In the last three years she’s won 12 CT contests. To start the 2015 season Riss won handily at Snapper and Bells, then…

“THERE WAS A METHOD TO MY MADNESS THIS YEAR, WHICH HAS ACTUALLY WORKED OUT FAR BETTER THAN I IMAGINED.” It’s three days before the Pipe Masters starts, and I’m sitting on Owen Wright’s veranda watching Pipe. It’s small, but even at this size it’s like watching a campfire, hard to look away. Owen is “somehow” in the world title race despite having a year where he’s chased swells and good times more than heat wins. He’s been in impeccable form both in and out of the water, developed a rabid lust for life, the happiest he’s ever been. A big, grinning, high functioning Labrador pup. He’s a longshot at Pipe to win the world title but doesn’t seem to care too much. There’s a big swell coming for the opening…

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