Driving into town from the west on Highway 20, visitors descend a hill that opens a splendid panorama of old Victorians, azure ocean, snowcapped mountains and dozens of boats sprinkled throughout the scene.
For many who wash up here—coming from California, the East Coast or far-away countries—this sight is the eureka moment that suggests they have found Shangri-La. And yet no matter how they come—by jalopy, boat or unicorn and wearing chainmail—once they enter Port Townsend’s field of gravity, it becomes impossible to leave.
Maybe it’s because of the festivals that take place here: jazz, blues, farm, films, fiddle tunes, rhododendron, steampunks, writing, or the kooky Kinetic Skulpture Race. They all have a devoted following, but they also bow to the iconic Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival, which is celebrated…