BEFORE THE TRENCH COAT became a fashion classic, it was once standard military issue. In its early incarnation, the coat—with shoulder straps to attach epaulettes and insignias, and large pockets to hold maps—was long, heavy and cumbersome. When the coats were caked in mud, they became heavier and even more unwieldy, restricting the movements of soldiers during combat. Even worse, the coats smelled.
What soldiers needed when under threat in extreme conditions was outerwear that was shorter, lightweight, waterproof and breathable. Most importantly, it would have to allow them to move freely and quickly.
Enter Thomas Burberry. In 1856, the apprentice draper established his eponymous menswear brand, specialising in outdoor attire. In 1879, Thomas invented gabardine, an innovative tightly woven fabric that was tough, waterproof and breathable. The invention proved…