Innholdsfortegnelse for Spring - Summer 2017 i SHOWDETAILS MILANO+PARIS+BEST BRANDS

The wind of freedom is blowing over Milan, where an image of a self-confident, independent and cultured woman holds sway. The game of seduction it plays is intellectual more than anything else: there is no need to bare too much flesh, because you don’t need the approval of others. The only thing that counts is the reflection in the mirror. Amongst the obsessions shown in the collections is femininity, the desire to reclaim a strong identity, ranging from princess dresses to oversize suits, with a preference for practical, everyday wear with a few tasteful injections. Elegance is another certainty: class is everything no matter whether you’re wearing a tracksuit or an evening gown. The shirt is the key piece in your summer wardrobe, unleashing a veritable Shirtmania. Shirts come in…

MILANO September 24, 2016 Agnona’s woman is a contemporary swan. Based on this vision, designer Simon Holloway created a collection that brought together romanticism and sensuality. Floral patterns and pastel colours helped make for a successful outcome with the aid of splits and transparencies. Flowers, printed or in jacquard, came to life on lightweight silks or cotton guipure lace. Impalpable viscose and silk were juxtaposed with linen and cotton. “Century” cashmere resembled denim, which itself appeared double-face with linen and satin. The lines were soft yet fitted, hemlines tended to be long for both day and evening, when elegant one-shoulder tunics in powder pink and yellow or veiled dresses were worn with a little fur jacket. A belted trench had large pockets and threequarter sleeves. La donna di Agnona è…

MILANO September 21, 2016 There are no boundaries between street style and tailored clothes. This according to Brunello Cucinelli, who imagined a “street style couture” for everyday living that mixed luxury and informality. Femininity was not sacrificed despite a few incursions into menswear. Jackets, in different fabrics such as wool, herringbone and pinstripe, had regular lines and applied details, were teamed with soft, cropped, oversize, extra-large trousers or track pants with drawstrings. Skirts were dreamy, floorlength and voluminous, or else pencil shaped. Stripes were a constant feature, of any thickness. Fur or raffia effect yarns, various qualities of cotton and mohair gauze were used for the knitwear. Jeans and bombers, shirts and t-shirts consolidated the casual mood, creating the essential pieces for completing an outfit. The colours favoured natural tones…

MILANO September 25, 2016 A modern vision of an elegance that meets the needs of today’s women from Katia g., who for Spring/Summer 2017 is reinforcing the brand’s identity by renaming it Katia Giannini. Special attention was paid to materials for the relaunch of this semi-couture brand in which every detail is aimed at accentuating the excellence of Made in Italy. Pyjamas, jumpsuits and voluminous long dresses fluttered around the body, designed to become precious ‘allies’ of seduction on hot summer nights. Kimono jackets and trousers had a vaguely oriental silhouette, skirts were full and almost touched the floor, while bermuda shorts and trenches also followed the big size theme. The collection showcased a concept of contemporary, sophisticated minimalism. Una visione moderna di un’eleganza che risponde alle esigenze delle donne…

MILANO September 24, 2016 Women are goddesses according to Mitzi, which created clothes as though designed for a canvas. The palette was made up of bold tints and, as if the designer were using a paintbrush, the clothes were given hand-painted flowers or flashes of colour and shading that achieved an artistic effect thanks to the combination of innovative fabrics such as glass-like organza or plissé vinyl. The colours were inspired by the sea, sunsets and the sun. The idea was to dress for grand occasions: dresses often fell sumptuously to the feet and were so full as to resemble the corollas of a flower and sleeveless with rather chaste necklines. Movement came not only from the patterns but also from the sharp contrast between the colours, the fabric insets…

MILANO September 24, 2016 Between street and glamour. Terre Alte proposed a fresh collection attentive to shapes, materials and fit for a woman with a hectic lifestyle yet who doesn’t want to sacrifice style and elegance. You cannot go wrong with black for clean duster coats, wide cropped trousers and ruched shirts, through simple sheaths and outfits, while white wins out for shorts and mini-dresses, and perforated or boxy shirts. Red appeared throughout the collection, tingeing flowers, penetrating fabrics and enlivening geometric patterns, modern lurex lozenges, which also featured in the dominant pink. The prints on jersey t-shirts and poplin pieces and the dévoré cotton knitwear heightened the craftsmanship of the clothes. Terre Alte’s key piece, the jacket, came in technical fabric with a defined silhouette. Tra lo street e…

MILANO September 24, 2016 We are all African for Antonio Marras, who drew inspiration from Malick Sidibé’s photographs of Mali in 1960 when the country gained its independence. There was an air of freedom on the runway, a playful chaos of embroidery and patchwork, flowers on checks, golden lace and fur panels. Blue dominated, partly thanks to Marras’ use of used denim for skirts with frayed hems and coats with wide lapels. There were more dresses than trousers. The hemlines and patterns followed a good girl theme and bonton dresses were cinched at the waist: pink or blue cotton gingham or black and white macro check featured alongside floral patterns and ruches. African prints stood out, as did a long red dress with a crocheted bodice, almost like a touch…

MILANO September 24, 2016 The Blumarine show seems almost to have had a focus on austerity. While not betraying the brand’s style, the woman designed by Anna Molinari sacrificed a little lace and needlework. Inspiration came from Tina Modotti, the adventurous photographer based in Mexico, who certainly needed to be more practical than dreamy. White was suited to sunny days in mini shirts and loose skirts with high splits or squarenecked broderie anglaise dresses or tight high-waist trousers and lingerie tops. But white also worked well for the evening in organza outfits with ruches or embroidered flowers. Floral patterns featured on grey, brown or gold looks for city living. Things took a romantic turn with a series of pink looks, especially for the evening when a sparkly princess dress finally…

MILANO September 25, 2016 It was as though Dan and Dean Caten had taken a well-to-do lady to an ’80s disco so that she could get a taste of the underground clubs, mixing elegance with glamour. A cascade of sparkle fell on the Dsquared2 collection, covering denim with crystals, animal with beads and adding shine with gold lurex. Despite the twins’ much loved sense of excess, there was also harmony in how they put the outfits together. Comfortable wrinkled or sporty trousers were paired with bits of majorette uniforms or short embroidered sheaths were packed with bows on the sleeves with gathered fabrics at the hips. In all this chaos, two elements were the main focus of the creative process: the sleeves, whether short or long, were voluminous, puff and…

MILANO September 23, 2016 This Etro collection was about travels and adventures to the tune of Kashmir by Led Zeppelin. The ethno-chic style took atmospheres from around the world and reworked them for the urban setting. Veronica Etro is not afraid of pairing colours and patterns because she knows that the end result will never be chaotic or vulgar. The brand’s signature paisley came in bold tints such as yellow, fuchsia and turquoise, it blended with Western stripes, Andean fabrics and Middle Eastern moods. The models wore colourful stoles and warmed up in raw silk knitted cloaks with hoods and toggles. The real star of the show was the silk kaftan, which came in both long and short versions. Perfect for the city with leather motorcycling trousers, running shorts and…

MILANO September 23, 2016 For his youthful line, Giambattista Valli had fun dressing Lolitas in a mixture of innocence and transgression. There was no shortage of lace and transparencies in the collection, but romanticism outside the Giamba conventions met prints of the American desert and tigers - perhaps a sign of a desire to escape - and pink sequins on bombers and jumpsuits. Ruches, plissé, bubble sleeves and sexy and virginal little dresses in black and white confirmed the brand’s trend. Giamba used combinations of floral patterns and patchwork for a prairie girl feel, as seen in little cowgirl shirts covered in long fringes. Hemlines were mainly short, long dresses had an ethnic edge while slightly flared trousers were paired with micro bombers suitable for everyday wear. Giambattista Valli con…

MILANO September 24, 2016 Rodolfo Paglialunga at the helm of Jil Sander dressed his woman in enormous clothes reminiscent of the ’80s, the golden age of the big labels. Despite the oversize dimensions, the outfits were impeccable in their clean lines and geometry constructed using pleats in some looks. The volumes, such as the puffy sleeves on knee-length dresses, had an engineering precision about them due to their ability to hold up the structure. Sleeves were very long and in some cases exceptionally short and asymmetric. The choice of colours was also rigorous, opting for a palette ranging from cream through brown, copper, toffee, caramel and powder pink to wenge. There were no patterns, other than a few streaks, but pinstripe tropical wool and plissé resembled puckered fabrics such as…

MILANO September 22, 2016 What looked like leaves from tropical plants were actually quotations from influential sacred monsters of international architecture. Paying homage to Lina Bo Bardi, the figurehead of a Latin American avantgarde cultural movement, the Max Mara collection put together technical fabrics, clean lines and plant prints to produce a sporty, informal look that bore the hallmarks of the brand. Trousers were tight and worn with short bombers while pencil skirts fell below the knee. A soft or tight onesie seemed to be the key seasonal piece. It came with rainforest patterns or bold colours such as electric blue or bright red. Cartoon depictions of exotic animals featured on fluffy knitwear. The brand’s trademark oversize coats featured but there were also more practical nylon jackets for everyday wear.…

MILANO September 21, 2016 Alessandro Dell’Acqua managed to create harmony in chaos in a collection packed with inspiration and a desire to put everything into the same outfit. The designer dipped into bridal wear and sportswear, glam disco nights and menswear to produce a new confident yet risk-taking kind of femininity. The secret was in the layering of tulle, lace and plissé metal skirts or the mix of mini pompoms, k-way zips and patch pockets with little studs, or else the inset feathers, ruches and long fringes. The colours were virginal on the one hand – white, pale pink, powder pink – and nocturnal on the other, as in the romantic floral patterns on a black background and the flashes of acid yellow. The simplicity of a white shirt was…

MILANO September 25, 2016 Saverio Moschillo for Rich has designed a woman who knows what she is doing and wants to be sensual at any time of day. Leather was the main feature, embellished with studs and shot through with zips: mini-biker jackets bared the midriff and low rise trousers were cigarette-shaped or flared. For everyday life there were jeans made of half denim half leather, or little dresses with printed shapes and graphics. A tailored jacket was paired with sporty shorts or came backless with only gold embroidery over the skin. The outfits were intarsia’d with the brand’s signature or highlighted the hips with volumes cinched at the waist. Evening wear focused on transparency with ultralight dresses and long white dresses shot through with zips, out of which emerged…

MILANO September 23, 2016 You only had to look at the clothes on the runway to see the influence of the sea in Sportmax’s simple yet sophisticated collection. The Emiliabased brand drew inspiration from Kusukazu Uraguchi’s photography book “Shima no Ama”, which explores Japanese women pearl divers, dressing them to carry out the ancient activity today. Shades of blue together with fish patterns and red and white, sometimes mixed together, harked back to a maritime mood that influenced the entire collection, even the cotton, linen and jersey materials. Skirts were kneelength while trousers were loose and fell to the feet or ankles. There were no transparencies and sporty elegance was favoured over seduction: a bare midriff kept the navel covered and bare legs were shown only in shorts. A parka…

L’America ci riprova ad essere ottimista; quindici anni dopo gli attentati alle Torri Gemelle e a un mese dalle presidenziali che metteranno fine al mandato di Obama ed eleggeranno una donna o un miliardario, il Paese utilizza come ‘distrazione’ uno dei mezzi più congeniali per testare gli umori che permeano la società: la moda. E la moda americana ha deciso che si va avanti nonostante attentati passati e presenti, incognite, minacce e insicurezze globali. E non solo con le consuete sfilate tradizionali, essenziali a livello narrativo e promozionale, ma anche attraverso performance che si avvicinano all’arte e inventano così nuovi linguaggi visivi, mentre si fanno strada nuove strategie di marketing come il see-now-buy-now, che permette di acquistare subito i capi appena presentati, rendendo così una collezione immediatamente fruibile. “Democratizzazione della…

NEW YORK September 10, 2016 A new designer has come from London to New York to be creative director at Dvf, while Diane Von Furstenberg has decided to devote more time to her philanthropic work. Jonathan Saunders took on the challenge of leading this iconic brand and has immediately injected his experience in prints and colour combinations into this collection. The prints were floral but also geometric, polka dots alongside flowers on fluid dresses that resembled the founder’s wrap dresses but added a contemporary edge with asymmetric hemlines and shoulders and an abundance of pattern. The iconic wrap V neckline featured on blouses teamed with loose high-waist trousers or pleated skirts. The colours were bright yet held in check by black, ivory and navy. Da Londra a New York come…

NEW YORK September 8, 2016 Immersed in the countryside, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel’s girls mixed & matched little bon-ton jackets and blouses with faded denim shorts and striped boxers, masculine t-shirts and shorts with romantic flouncy skirts, and a few pieces of loungewear including a quilted antique pink grandmother’s dressing gown and pyjama trousers. There were also tweed jackets, little dresses of various types, from slips to shirt dresses to knit, romantic and rock pieces, heeled perforated leather ankle boots and sandals worn with striped socks. In short, all the elements of a young, carefree wardrobe perfectly in tune with the brand’s and the founder’s spirit. Immerse nella natura di un paesaggio di campagna, le ragazze di Sonia by Sonia Rykiel giocano al classico mix & match da ventenni abbinando…

NEW YORK September 11, 2016 “A sartorial version of an Ibizan rave”. That’s how journalist Hayley Phelan described the new collection from Custo Barcelona, entitled ‘Way More’ and including an exuberant mix & match version of the Spanish designer’s signature heady mix. Dresses of various lengths featured transparencies and/or deep splits revealing panties, sequinned bikinis or nude looks. Zipped cardiganjackets had jewelled embroidery and/or metallic appliqués and were paired with matching dresses and skirts or loose ¾ length trousers that were either shiny with side bands or fringed or else sheer and plastic-looking. There was an abundance of gold, glossy effects and bold colours to emphasise all the decoration. “Una versione sartoriale di un rave a Ibiza”; la giornalista Hayley Phelan descrive così la nuova collezione di Custo Barcelona, intitolata…

NEW YORK September 15, 2016 In their metallic booties with sky high platforms and candy-coloured dreadlocks, Marc Jacobs’ girls were raving in front of a midnight blue backdrop illuminated by myriad little lights. Unconcerned by the super-high hemlines on the dresses and shorts, their legs were either bare or tucked into patterned over the knee socks, which alternated with high-waist skinny trousers. Mini-dresses ranged from Victorian baby-dolls with lace, collars, bows and/or puff sleeves to glittery tunics. There were also military looks and camouflage prints, oversize sweatshirts with and without a hood, while the outerwear was mainly cropped, bolero style or long and trench-like, in denim or silvery leather or else velvet and/or sequinned. The multicoloured palette matched the mood and the setting. Bootie metallizzati con platform stratosferico e chiome…

NEW YORK September 12, 2016 Ahead of the arrival of new creative duo Kim and Garcia from the brand Morse, the Oscar de la Renta summer collection was entrusted to an in-house team, who stuck close to the brand’s dna with elegant cocktail frocks and evening dresses interspersed by daywear in pure white crochet or lace or ethnic embroidery and paisley and floral prints. The dresses were mainly midi or long, plissé with gold reflections or chiffon layers, decorated with feathers or sequins, bustier-style with voluminous skirts or with drop shoulders and gathered puff sleeves. The flat jewelled sandals worn with everything toned down the most sumptuous of looks. In attesa del nuovo duo creativo Kim e Garcia del brand Morse, la collezione estiva di Oscar de la Renta è…

NEW YORK September 13, 2016 Vera Wang dismantled masculine tailoring, slicing blazers above the bust to reveal the shoulders and décolleté and elongating the sleeves. These unusual looks concealed parts of the body while revealing plenty elsewhere, such as the legs, which were dressed in micro-shorts curved slightly at the hips and towered over sky high platforms. Extra-long sleeves also appeared on shirts, knits, sweatshirts and thin blouses, often worn with layered peplums, while skirts were long, sheer georgette and open at the front to reveal the legs (again). Cocktail dresses were illuminated by pearl embroideries, creating a chiaroscuro effect over transparencies, which appeared in the finale complete with trains. Vera Wang smantella il sartoriale maschile privando i blazer della parte di sopra, così che restano scoperte spalle e décolleté…

NEW YORK September 8, 2016 Thakoon’s first ‘see now buy now’ collection featured eye-catching layers and inspirations in a sunset show on the roof of Empire Stores in Dumbo, a beautiful location with views over New York. And the spirit of the Big Apple, where the designer is based, was clear to see in the mix of utility and sportswear alongside a balance of masculine and feminine. Grungy checked shirt-dresses, loose high-waist trousers with belt and big pockets worn with cropped jackets and soft cloakknits, fluid dresses with thick outerwear. There was also lots of deconstructed knitwear, chunky or thin, ribbed or twisted, worn knotted around the waist or around the neck or else layered asymmetrically over floral shirts and dresses for a rugged yet poetic look. Un accattivante gioco…

MILANO FLASH GENNY Tel. +39-0456719811 info@genny.com www.genny.com LAURA BIAGIOTTI Tel. +39-0774571311 mail@laurabiagiotti.it www.laurabiagiotti.it MILA SCHÖN Tel. +39-0276280492 info@milaschon.com www.milaschon.com MSGM Tel. +39-0073340079 info@msgm.it www.msgm.it TRUSSARDI Tel. +39-028068821 www.trussardi.com MILANO SHOWROOMS AGNONA Tel. +39-0242473211 showroom.agnona@zegna.com www.agnona.it ANGELA MELE JEANS Tel. +39-0516648000 info@angelamele.it www.angelamele.it BALLY Tel. +39-0258411112 www.bally.it BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Tel. +39-075697071 cucinelli@brunellocucinelli.it www.brunellocucinelli.it CAPUCCI Tel. +39-0276394399 info@capucci.eu www.capucci.eu ENRICO MAZZA Tel. +39-0289403663 info@logospr.com www.logospr.com KATIA GIANNINI Tel. +39-0516647110 katiag@katiag.it www.katiag.it MALLONI Tel. +39-0734877000 info@malloni.com www.malloni.com MASSIMO REBECCHI Tel. +39-0541655011 info@massimorebecchi.it www.massimorebecchi.it MITZI Tel. +39-0355295757 info@mitziartemoda.com www.mitziartemoda.com ROSSELLA JARDINI info@rossellajardini.com www.rossellajardini.com SHIRTAPORTER Tel. +390457570591 info@shirtaporter.com www.shirtaporter.com TERRE ALTE Tel. +39-0541743658 info@terrealte.net www.terrealte.net TOD’S Tel. +39-07348661 www.todsgroup.com MILANO CATWALKS ALBERTA FERRETTI Tel. +39-0276003095 info@aeffe.com www.albertaferretti.com ANTONIO MARRAS Tel. +39-0289075001 info@antoniomarras.it www.antoniomarras.it AQUILANO.RIMONDI Tel. +39-0249791381 info@aquilanorimondi.com www.aquilanorimondi.it BLUGIRL Tel. +39-059637511 blufin@blufin.it www.blufin.it BLUMARINE Tel.…

Soffia un vento di libertà su Milano dove ha sfilato un’immagine di donna sicura di sé, indipendente e colta. Il gioco di seduzione che mette in atto è più che altro intellettuale: non c’è bisogno di scoprirsi troppo per piacere, perché non serve l’approvazione degli altri, l’unica cosa che conta è il riflesso che rimanda lo specchio. Tra le ossessioni presenti nelle collezioni c’è quello della femminilità, il desiderio di rivendicare un’identità forte, spaziando dagli abiti da principessa ai tailleur oversize, sfiorando mise pensate per la vita di tutti i giorni durante i quali si può essere scattanti con gusto. L’eleganza è un altro punto fermo: che sia una tuta o un abito da gran sera, alla classe nessuno rinuncia. La camicia è il capo che non si può non…

MILANO September 25, 2016 Angela Mele is not a lover of simplicity, using denim as a blank canvas for her Jeans line. The look was youthful, fresh and artisan, for a woman who loves the practicality of jeans but doesn’t want to sacrifice the glamorous touch of certain details. Trousers, which cannot be described as a mere pair of jeans, were given dappled fabric insets, cascades of light and hand-painted designs. The jeans fell to the ankle, were frayed or turned up, and slightly distressed. The stained-dappled dungarees worn with a white shirt were for a girl that wants a cheeky tomboyish outfit. Flowers, a recurring theme, appeared as sequins or murals. Knits were rather tight and had the same optical effects, while an ’80s denim jacket, a streaked silver…

MILANO September 24, 2016 Capucci’s new life has not come, as you might think, from the archive but from new creative director Mario Dice’s memories of the brand’s founder. The pleats, layered fabrics, stitching and insets reflected the brand’s penchant for architecture and shapes. The construction of bows or folds were made to look like the pages of a book and some of the finishes resembled ruffs. Black was elegant in defined silhouettes or slightly transparent evening dresses, while white had a summery feel in a little lace dress or in colourful embroidery, or in a sporty tracksuit. Red featured on clothes for any time of day. Blue and green recalled peacock feathers while geometric patterns on long dresses and skirts harked back to the ’70s. La nuova vita di…

MILANO September 22, 2016 Rigorous, essential and minimal, extraordinarily feminine. The Malloni collection was made up of clean overlapping lines tending towards the long. The overall effect was one of refined simplicity in which colours and materials chimed together perfectly. Black and white, ivory and cream, in total looks or combinations, and amaranth were used to colour linen, viscose and silk. The details were discreet and the clothes deserved a close look to see the plissé gauze, pleats, manual topstitching and embroidery. Patterns could just be seen on linen and cotton jacquard, resembling 19th century upholstery. The trousers were oversize, floor-length like skirts or comfortable calf-length: they were worn with buttoned dresses and white shirts with modular geometry. The jackets were soft and the blazers extra-long, while skirts were given…

MILANO September 25, 2016 Rossella Jardini’s collection was a homage to summer. Whether on the beach or in the city, her woman faces the hot weather immersed in colours and multi-ethnic references. Reworked kaftans, gypsy dresses and hippie outfits were joyful in their choice of fabrics, colour combinations and rich details. The ’70s were clearly recognisable as a source of inspiration, including when it came to references to Native American, Andean and Northern European cultures. The lines were energetic, the volumes and hemlines abundant, but there was no cloying excess. Tops, skirts, shorts and dresses were made of cotton, poplin, washed satin and crêpe de chine in an array of patterns and designs such as colourful stripes, jacquard, polka dots, cotton tulle with grosgrain. A white tiered dress was extremely…

MILANO September 23, 2016 The latest Tod’s collection looked to timeless icons for inspiration, proposing the very best of Made in Italy in the high quality leather on show here. Trenches, dresses, jackets, shorts, minis and shirts were imagined to be worn by Lauren Hutton, Bianca Jagger or Brigitte Bardot in the city or on holiday. These were not clothes everyone can afford, especially when python, suede and napa leather were the main materials. But it was a collection aimed at the very young, who are at ease in short dresses and shorts or fringed metalized leather sheaths or jeans worn with a suede bomber. Natural colours such as beige, brown and olive made the clothes come alive. Other tints, from navy to antique blue, through powder pink and cherry,…

MILANO September 24, 2016 Variations on the shirt theme for Aquilano and Rimondi. The duo had fun pulling apart a certain type of ‘90s formal wear. Masculine elements were converted into extremely feminine, sensual pieces, such as the skirts with buttons up the split or the shirts turned into something new. These pieces were not just borrowed from the husband’s wardrobe; they had exaggeratedly long sleeves, no collars and were low cut or reconstructed in a oneshoulder version. Suits featured slim or loose trousers while the jacket was soft and generous, with three-quarter sleeves and shorter than the shirt. White dominated over grey or blue pinstripes or come in total looks. Colour arrived for the evening: various shades of red and orange were used for sleeveless kneelength or handkerchief hem…

MILANO September 24, 2016 To celebrate Bottega Veneta’s fifty years in fashion and Tomas Maier’s fifteen years as creative director, the brand presented a collection that aimed to fully express its philosophy and obsession with details and craftsmanship. There were no real surprises because the brand wants to dress those who perceive luxury in the details. Leather is the material that enables it to do that, and it came in ostrich, crocodile, lambskin and suede pieces. The natural colours were rather dark, except for a few splashes of pink, orange and yellow. The fit was comfortable, even on the double-breasted jackets - no skinny sheaths here. Skirts fell to the knee and trousers had high turned over waists. The waist was highlighted by fasteners or belts, even on top of…

MILANO September 22, 2016 Emilio Pucci continues to be revisited by creative director Massimo Giorgetti, who looked through the brand’s archive to create an eye-catching collection, especially for a younger audience. Tradition was celebrated through jersey, the brand’s signature fabric, which was used all the time even when it resembled something else. A few classic prints were taken from the archives and used alongside elaborately processed new tribal patterns, and the colours were a feast for the eyes. Turquoise, canary yellow and bubble-gum pink were saturated and cheery. Floor-length enveloping dresses had clean lines, even when covered with sparkles, and the light drapes were dictated by movement and strategic seams. The little dresses, knitted costumes, tops and short circle skirts had a tomboyish air about them that chimed perfectly with…

MILANO September 22, 2016 A rococo style for everyday wear in an opulent yet sporty collection. This is what Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi designed for Fendi, managing to find balance between the track and Versailles. Alongside floral patterns inspired by French gardens there were plenty of fine or wider vertical and horizontal stripes on wide trousers narrow at the ankle with big pockets worn with sporty mini sweaters. Pastel colours, with a clear preference for shades of pink, were reminiscent of lingerie and nightwear with transparencies, embroidery and airy fabrics such as organza, tulle and chiffon. Waistlines were elasticated as in sportswear but also cinched with bows and sleeves were voluminous. What at first resembled skirts were actually aprons added on top of the outfits. Gold dazzled in…

MILANO September 23, 2016 The title of the collection, “Charmani”, is Giorgio Armani’s manifesto this season. The great Italian designer wants to use fashion to launch a neologism about his own idea of charm and femininity. The woman imagined by King Giorgio is not a lover of excess. The jacket is the key piece: whether long or short, with small or no lapels, zipped or brightened for the evening. Without relying on the suit, the jacket is a standalone piece and can be paired with bermuda shorts or long, soft trousers. The colours were dark and centred on blue, though never overbearing due to the use of floral patterns reminiscent of Japanese prints. The lines were fluid and bountiful thanks to bows, fringes, bubble sleeves and puckered surfaces. Transparencies were…

MILANO September 23, 2016 Marco de Vincenzo’s collection was inspired by ’50s postcards of the sea. The designer loves to start with the fabric in his creative process and he succeeded in his bid to sketch out his clothes using ruches, hemlines, bows and especially fringes. His ability to transform the look of dresses, jackets and coats with simple cotton threads is extraordinary. There were no smooth surfaces in this collection; just movement created by pleats, cuts and stripes. The details were never banal and drew attention to the extensive research: just take a look at the maxi collars, asymmetric shirts, the work on the sleeves, such as the short ones with cuffs or the lace ones, and the seascape on the sleeveless trench. There was a great deal of…

MILANO September 25, 2016 Playing with patterns and colours has always been the challenge for Missoni, which presented an exquisitely summery, sunny and carefree collection. The dresses fell comfortably over the body, whatever length they were. There were tunics and minidresses, jumpsuits and wide-leg trousers. Maxi cardigans were sleeveless and worn like capes, while mini cardigans were tied around the waist. The lines were clean and simple, producing an elegant look dictated by the layering. Giving rhythm to colour is the Italian brand’s signature trait and it did so here by colour blocking lurex, crochet and knit. Patterns were combined in a mix of geometry and ethnic and animal flavours. The fabrics used ensured the colours were bright, even in shades of green and brown. The patterns were a surprising…

MILANO September 24, 2016 Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini’s collection was inspired by Brooke Shields shipwrecked trunk in Blue Lagoon. Fresh-faced models were forced to wear a mixture of old Victorian dresses and thrifty, wornout pieces. Romanticism came with all the pure white, in the ruches on long airy dresses, in the buttoned collars, in the lace, plumetis and in the outfits seemingly stolen from the nightwear drawer. Tropical flowers tinted the clothes pink, lilac, lemon yellow and mauve, while black made an appearance but did not dominate. The castaway’s wardrobe also included some frayed denim, little jumpsuits made from suede offcuts and hand-knitted mesh knitwear. Everything had an innocence with a sexy edge provided by bare shoulders, legs glimpsed through dresses with handkerchief hems, deep necklines and buttons designed to…

MILANO September 21, 2016 A dizzying collection from Peter Dundas for Roberto Cavalli due to the sheer quantity of references for his travellers, who wore the brand dna mixed with a fascination for Native American and other cultures, seen through a rock filter that the designer proposed in his vision of the brand. At first glimpse, it all looked rather hippie with the bell bottoms, frayed shirts and lean jackets, ethnic skirts and tops with cloaks and ponchos, big fringes, velvet and a kaleidoscope of colours. But to fully understand what was going on, you had to look closely at the details each garment was packed with. Take the embroidery or patchwork on each pair of trousers or the prints and fabrics, which could easily belong to the Navajo or…

MILANO September 23, 2016 “I believe that sporty style will be tomorrow’s elegance,” declared Donatella Versace about her collection. The designer explored the potential of technical apparel, making it glamorous and desirable not for actual sport but for all day long, including formal occasions. Nylon was everywhere and treated as though it were silk. Not just for waterproof jackets but also for little shirts and dresses, almost like an evening k-way. Drawstrings were pulled into draping and ruching and the lightweight fabric made the models appear ready to take flight. Trousers were tight sheaths with zips, some as jumpsuits and others in tailored suits. Dresses were lean, below the knee and made sensual by splits and snap fasteners open to just the right point. Outfits featuring wraparound or plissé skirts…

NEW YORK September 8, 2016 At Cynthia Rowley the atmosphere was as padded as the interior of a glass ball; white feathers fell onto the models’ heads and to the ground creating a thick snow-like layer. This was in clear contrast with the clothes, which were packed with prints, bold colours and glossy and/or glittery surfaces: a sleeveless mini-blouse in purpletrimmed brocade was layered over an impalpable floral blouse, a silk pyjama suit was printed with childlike animals that also featured on a high-waist skirt trimmed with red lace paired with an animal shirt, a slip dress in rust-coloured lamé. The accessories were imaginative and used with beachwear too. Retro laser cut sunglasses and maxi jewelled bracelets made for a collection that never stopped shining all the way to the…

NEW YORK September 7, 2016 The Seventies and intense colours made their mark on the latest M Missoni collection, which did not focus on one specific theme but refreshed the brand’s signatures in all-new colour combinations. Mauve, turquoise and rust were colour-blocked on lurex knit blouses, skirts and dresses, which alternated with bold yellow and orange in abstract or monochrome patterns on fluid airy dresses worn with platform sandals tied at the ankle. Plain white was used, at times head to foot, for shirts, flares, pleated skirts and coats with contrasting details. Some khaki looks confirmed the brand’s total mastery of colour, which made the leather or knitted shoulder bags even more eyecatching. Accenti Seventies e tonalità intense danno l’impronta alla collezione di M Missoni, che non ruota attorno ad…

NEW YORK September 10, 2016 Never change a winning style; Alexander Wang’s recipe for next summer includes an eye-catching mix of ingredients that continues to be popular with New York girls, i.e. destructured masculine, lingerie, sport & streetwear. The show featured bras and bra tops crossed over at the abdomen, surfing and boxing shorts, slip dresses and crop tops that were tailored or lace-trimmed, pyjama suits in technical fabric, ’90s denim pieces complete with holes and fraying. The plethora of beachwear on show reflected the designer’s Californian roots, as did the evening wear, which came in black and/or white and included sarong skirts, sundresses, mesh and bikini-like pieces. Stile vincente non si cambia; la ricetta di Alexander Wang per la prossima estate ripropone sicura l’accattivante mix di ingredienti che continua…

NEW YORK September 12, 2016 Dkny showcased a futuristic reinterpretation of the brand’s signature style, so masculine tailoring, streetwear and activewear. Oversize blazers, some pinstripe, had broad shoulders, sweaters had extra-long sleeves and frayed edges, asymmetric white shirts were worn as dresses, loose high-waist trousers came in sheer technical fabric. The looks featured plenty of layering and the hood was a recurring detail, peeking out from sweatshirts worn under jackets or as an accessory to a jacket, while laces and strings and utility pockets added surface interest. The shoes with shaped rubber soles also had a tech feel. Sulla passerella di Dkny va in scena una reinterpretazione in chiave futuristica dei codici che identificano lo stile del brand ovvero sartoriale maschile, streetwear ed activewear. Volumi oversize caratterizzano blazer dalle maxi-spalle,…

NEW YORK September 14, 2016 Barbara Stanwyck and Katharine Hepburn right up to Kim Basinger. Michael Kors’ icons of reference symbolised an era and a style that was reflected in the clothes and details on the runway. Floral dresses with structured shoulders and high belted waist alternated with trenches, some of which were floral, loose masculine trousers worn with shirts with long pointed collars, bra tops paired with little shorts and oversize knits with extralong sleeves. Navy, white and brown gave way to bold, fruity tints such as pink, orange and lime green, while for the evening black was partly or entirely decorated with sequins and other bright appliqués. Barbara Stanwyck e Katharine Hepburn fino ad arrivare a Kim Basinger; le icone di riferimento di Michael Kors sono anche simbolo…

NEW YORK September 12, 2016 The Proenza Schouler show featured a high level of experimentation and craftsmanship, the creative duo having drawn inspiration from the “almost defunct couture ateliers” visited in Paris. A double-breasted, sailor striped version of the Bar jacket was layered over a plissé asymmetric skirt, a couple of dresses were woven from leather and trimmed with feathers to resemble Mondrian paintings or else had knotted peephole bodices. T-shirts were layered over animal knits with obi-like belts tied at the waist, crossover crop tops came with matching asymmetric plissé skirts, while other knits featured decorative cut-outs. Bold colours intensified the shapes and textures. Un alto livello di sperimentazione e di artigianato s’incontrano sulla passerella di Proenza Schouler, il duo creativo che afferma di aver liberamente applicato ai propri…

NEW YORK September 12, 2016 Daywear is gaining more and more space in Zac Posen’s womenswear. For this collection, he applied the sumptuous shapes of his evening dresses to day looks and even introduced biker jackets and trousers. The sculptural ‘anatomical seaming’ of his red carpet gowns appeared in outfits, some in brocade, made up of little zipped jackets with rounded shoulders and puff sleeves worn with calf-length trousers with zips or suits with a rounded or flared pleated skirt, or a tiny wraparound mini. The dresses were also sculptural with stiff bodices and skirts that, as evening fell, grew longer and gained transparencies and precious embroidery. Il quotidiano si fa sempre più spazio nel guardaroba della donna di Zac Posen che in questa collezione applica le forme sontuose delle…

NEW YORK September 7, 2016 Sexy yes, as always, but above all ultra-chic, and it could not be any other way for Tom Ford, who seems to turn everything he touches to gold. After winning the Grand Jury Prize at the Venice Film Festival for his second feature film, the Texan designer presented his new collection in the ‘Pool Room’ at former restaurant Four Seasons in a shadowy, velvety atmosphere. The first exits were grey tweed and brown leather jackets that cinched the waist and sinuous skirts with harness-like belts that appeared on almost all of the outfits. To follow were multi-coloured fur outerwear and all-black looks, with some addition of bright velvet, iridescent glitter and sequins and big gold necklaces. Sexy sì, come sempre, ma soprattutto ultra-chic e non…

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CARLOTTACANEPA PRESENTS GREEN PRÊT-À-PORTER / CARLOTTACANEPA PRESENTA UN PRÊT-À-PORTER GREEN Carlottacanepa’s debut took place at September’s edition of White Milano: it was selected as one of 24 new highpotential brands. Carlottacanepa marks the debut of creative director Carlotta Canepa, who developed her passion for and experience in fashion at her family’s company, Gruppo Canepa, the world leader in high-end silk weaving and premium fabric production from other natural fibres. For this season Carlotta presented light skirts, jackets and overcoats in fabrics designed exclusively for her collection from a mix of creativity and research, in tune with the family tradition and the spirit of the Milan fashion event. The Carlottacanepa brand mirrors the soul of its creative director and her way of expressing a romantic, sophisticated lifestyle. Her preference for geometric…

MILANO September 24, 2016 Fearless and adventurous. Bally’s woman immersed herself in “refinement in bold”. The outfits all had a certain weight due mainly to the choice of colours that had a strong personality emphasised by jersey. The atmosphere harked back to a slightly funky era between the ’60s and ’70s. The flared trousers, circle skirts and mini-dresses came in shades of ochre yellow, cherry red and hazelnut brown. A pleated jacket with wide-leg pressed trousers were in chewing-gum pink. Alongside the heaviness of the materials, there were also satin shirts and a metallic gold cassock resembling sweet wrappers. There were no patterns, but the outfits gained in mesh, visible stitching, cut-outs on knits and distorted fastenings. A soft coat came in plush toy colours for cooler weather. Senza paura…

A collection designed around the female body from Enrico Mazza, who aimed to celebrate charm and elegance. Tailoring and form were the key words for the brand, which proposed dresses, skirts, tops, jackets, shorts and trousers made entirely in Italy using top quality materials suitable for any time of day. The lines were simple yet packed with details embellishing the clothes, such as sequins, embroidery, little metallic appliqués and unique textures. The hemlines highlighted the legs and the volumes emphasised the sinuousness of the female form. Cotton, silk, lace and tulle gave the collection the lightness of summer, as did the powder pink, gold and bronze colours which went well with a tan. White gave brightness, fuchsia, yellow and sea blue celebrated the season while black was perfect for the…

MILANO September 25, 2016 Massimo Rebecchi imagined a “femininity à porter” for his woman in which everyday clothes are filled with colours, patterns and stripes for an elegant and pretty look. The airy dresses, featuring printed florals or butterflies, had shoulder straps or ruches and were light and innocently transparent. Tops had bare shoulders and were worn with soft skirts covering the knees. The mannish jacket-trouser suits were softened by patterned shirts while a military parka was the perfect jacket to wear with rosecovered trousers. Sorbet colours included pale blue, candy pink and baby yellow, but there was also white and black used for lace. Any seriousness was broken up with touches of glitter, butterflies on silk, stars and stripes, embroidered parrots and lucky owls. Massimo Rebecchi immagina per la…

MILANO September 24, 2016 The Shirtaporter season was well defined. There was a holiday vibe in the womenswear imagined by the Italian brand, which preferred to think of a large suitcase packed with sporty yet chic outfits. There were stripes of all types and dimensions, Hawaiian plant and flower prints, light solid colour coats, Chanelstyle suits and old-style basketball socks. Botanical overprints were in cotton and silk jacquard, hibiscus were in silk satin, outerwear came in furniture fabrics such as linen and cotton with regimental ribbons and accessories. The red and white and green and white stripes were exquisitely summery, embellished with floral designs that gave blouses and trousers a touch of elegance and greater versatility. The lines were comfortable, suited to everyday wear and those off on a journey.…

MILANO September 21, 2016 The woman on the Alberta Ferretti runway was passionate, instinctive and free. At first glance, it almost looked as though the designer had toned down her signature romanticism, judging from the bold colours, structured lines, and the leather belts and tops. It was a more grounded collection with Spanish and gypsy atmospheres, including thick floor-length tiered skirts of architectural solidity, which were also worn with shantung trousers. Chiffon was less ethereal and tinged purple, red and sky blue. There was no shortage of lace, ruches, bows and trains, but they were made to walk on the ground, not in the clouds. Lingerie pieces in classic black and white were worn visible or hidden under masculine shirts. Flowers featured in patterns and embroidery, giving an ethnic feel…

MILANO September 21, 2016 There was a holiday feel at Blugirl. At the beach or in the city, Anna Molinari’s woman is an easy-going traveller immersed in her comfortable yet seductive clothes. Shoulders were uncovered and skirts were floorlength - ideal for princesses. Urban elements mixed with an ethnic feel on garments such as a technical fabric trench and colourful gilets with fringes seemingly bought at a street market. White lace and broderie anglaise gave a virginal touch that aroused a curiosity unleashed by short little dresses worn with trousers with gaiters, transparencies embroidered with flowers or one-shoulder dresses. Soft lines were accentuated by flounces and bubble sleeves. Trousers were loose, often striped and reached the calf while jackets were mannish and worn over kaftans. The colours were those of…

MILANO September 25, 2016 Set in an imaginary “Tropico Italiano”, the Dolce & Gabbana collection continued to have fun with Italian clichés. Spaghetti, pizza and mandolins were points to be shown off, not stereotypes to be demonised. References to Southern Italy were clear to see: the band playing, the lucky horns, the day’s catch, tomatoes, little saint icons, fringes and mirrors made by local craftsmen, widow’s outfits, exvoto offerings and bobbin lace collars. Gaudy sequins, gilding and precious embroidery lived side by side with jute sacks and farm hand uniforms, while t-shirts referenced market-stall fakes. Florals featured in the patterns, appliqués and embellishments. But Italy is also about sport, so the show also included pennants, sweatshirts, polo shirts and Palermo football club kit. All the excess was witty: penne and…

MILANO September 24, 2016 Beauty first and foremost. Ermanno Scervino’s intention was clear to see in a collection that won’t be pigeonholed into a trend, preferring to fly free with its colours and materials towards a timeless dimension. White, ivory, pastel pink, sea blue and green were used alongside discreet patterns and animal designs, while black appeared sparingly. The Florentine brand’s focus on craftsmanship shone through in plissé lace, dreamy voile layers and in an ability to insert details from military uniforms into an extremely feminine look. A few references to menswear were even introduced, such as the lace lapels on a tailored jacket or the striped shirts given puff sleeves or paired with horizontal striped trousers. Some faux leather pieces, including a tight jumpsuit and a white biker jacket…

MILANO September 21, 2016 Francesco Scognamiglio aims to offer tailored clothes suited to all and to every hour of the day. This time the designer’s women were underground heroines revisiting men’s shirts, jackets and maxi sweatshirts with extreme femininity, creating a new romanticism. The collection had few colours. Apart from a little black and a few other tints, white gave an idea of purity to the entire collection. In his hands, the classic white shirt became a much sought after piece with lace insets, Victorian collars, ruches, crystals, couture-like details, pearls, gold fringes and pvc, while blue and white striped or blue floral patterned dresses on a white background were given the same treatment. Traces of gold appeared in jacquard bombers and an overcoat. The jacket in a black and…

MILANO September 21, 2016 A dream-like collection from which you wake upon seeing an unexpected clashing detail. Alessandro Michele for Gucci continued his journey into the imagination with a series of clothes that each had a story. There was no running theme other than the genius of the creator taking ruches to dizzying heights. The dusty colours harking back to the Gucci tradition were revived with copious quantities of sequins and shimmers. The collection mixed up elements from the past such as Victorian collars, princess dresses, bubble sleeves, Greek alphabet letters, Chinese dragons and ’70s suits with pearl-trimmed lapels and bell bottoms as well as ’90s stirrup pants. Fur added warmth and one trench resembled a wicked witch’s cloak. Una collezione che sembra un sogno da cui ci si sveglia…

MILANO September 25, 2016 When it comes to everyday clothes, Marni keeps on giving style lessons. Faithful to herself, Consuelo Castiglioni proposed a contemporary woman wearing clothes difficult to shoehorn into a trend. The outfits were bathed in colour: pure white, ivory, cream, hazelnut, cyclamen, vermilion and rust, brown, military green, shades of blue. Black appeared for the evening wear with panels stitched together creating cuts, while, apart from the flowers, patterns resembled movements of colour. There was plenty of geometry and architecture in the rest of the collection: just look at the volume of the shirts, the vaguely military pockets added on to the clothes, the drawstrings and ropes, the rounded plissé and the enormous attentiongrabbing haversacks. The latter were a standout feature in a chaste collection that bared…

MILANO September 22, 2016 “Valley of the Dolls” by American novelist Jacqueline Susann provided the inspiration for Jeremy Scott’s collection for Moschino, which dipped wholeheartedly into the imagination of brand founder Franco. The “dolls” in question were a way to define the anti-depression medication covered in the book but also the designs used on black backgrounds or encapsulated in the accessories. But dolls also referred to the women wearing two-dimensional evening dresses, harking back to the “paper dolls” that little girls have always played with. The cartoon outfits with drawn-on strings of pearls, polka dots, bon-ton cardigans, trenches, lingerie, mermaid dresses, lace and teddy bears were a fun exercise in trompe l’oeil to be seen from the front only; at the back they were plain white as though actually made…

MILANO September 22, 2016 Modern, contemporary yet offkilter elegance. This idea of Miuccia Prada’s produced a collection that looked to simplicity far removed from the excesses of the runway. Shapes crossed over the chest: jacket lapels, little sweaters and trenches, which were reworked with “sticking plasters” seemingly stuck on randomly. The imperfection alluded to included velcro used as invisible fasteners and daring combinations such as bra tops over shirts or funnel necks under a costume. Many of the looks had a ’70s feel: little skirts resembled those worn by oldschool tennis players, patterns were copied from dining room furniture, sofas, home furnishings; as well as a certain bourgeois austerity and plenty of jersey. The outfits were made up of many garments with the addition of straps, chinoiserie, marabou feathers and…

MILANO September 25, 2016 If there was any excess in Fulvio Rigoni’s collection for Salvatore Ferragamo, it was an excess of elegance. The woman proposed by the Florentine brand had the class of a bygone era with a slight twist ideal for the modern age. There were few colours – military green, blue and electric blue, white, red, pink and yellow – and simple floral patterns. The dresses were knee-length sheaths that appeared strapless or with puff sleeves, tight-fitting or gathered with ties, or else had necklines with lapels. Aside from the voluminous sleeves, another characteristic was the bell shape of the skirts which emphasised the feminine shapes, accentuating the hips and flaring out half way down the leg. The lines were clean, especially in the skirt and jacket combos,…

America is trying once again to be optimistic. Fifteen years after the attack on the Twin Towers and one month from the presidential election that will bring an end to Obama’s mandate and elect either a woman or a billionaire, the country is using as a ‘distraction’ one of the nicest ways of testing the nation’s mood: fashion. And American fashion has decided to move forward despite past and present terrorist attacks, uncertainty, threats and global insecurities. And not only with the customary runway shows, essential for narrative and promotional purposes, but also with performances bordering on art and inventing new visual languages, while new marketing strategies such as see-nowbuy-now allow consumers to buy the clothes they have just seen on the catwalk, making collections immeditely usable. Tommy Hilfiger calls…

NEW YORK September 14, 2016 Georgia O’Keeffe and Robert Ryman, i.e. precisionism and conceptual art stripped right back. These were Derek Lam’s references for next summer, together with a retro take on that all-American sportswear that is constantly doing the rounds. Loose masculine high-waist trousers, blouses and shirts with bishop sleeves, high-waist midi length skirts, with large pockets or raw-cut hems - all with a vaguely western feel (evidently drawn from O’Keeffe’s time in New Mexico). Other references to the painter came in the form of wrinkled fabrics, desertinspired colours, Navajo-style jewellery. There were also clean, boxy lines, as seen on the outerwear, and sporty details that chimed well with the minimalism of the mood. Georgia O’Keeffee e Robert Ryman, ovvero precisionismo e arte concettuale ridotta ai minimi termini; ecco…

NEW YORK September 8, 2016 A yearning for summer, sun and sea for the Red Valentino girl, who favours crocheted knits and dresses with colours and designs reminiscent of the waves and sea breeze together with sunsets, white clouds and seagulls. Another evocative element was ivory or white needlework lace used for cropped blouses and ethereal long dresses, with added veiling and/or transparency, while flamingo prints decorated a long skirt and various shorts with matching tops and a light hooded windbreaker. Other summer staples such as floral motifs and sailor stripes also featured, while faded flared jeans had a distinctly Seventies high waist. Everything was worn with necklaces, bracelets, little bags and sandals featuring rainbow-coloured textile weaves. Voglia d’estate, di mare e di sole per la ragazza di Red Valentino,…

NEW YORK September 11, 2016 A playful, colourful collection to offset the dark, uncertain times we are going through. Like other designers at this New York fashion week, Altuzarra toned down the tension of the upcoming election using looks in bold tints, prints and sensuality. Inspired by the David Lynch film ‘Wild at Heart’, the designer showed python surfaces alternating or teamed with cherries and lemons on flouncy slip dresses and ruched bra tops worn with high-waist skirts or flared trousers with embroidery and wide belts. Many off-the-shoulder tops revealed the bra straps beneath, pencil skirts had splits and deep necklines created a sweet contrast when paired with structured trenches and blazers or military jackets. Una collezione gioiosa e colorata per compensare i tempi bui e incerti che stiamo vivendo.…

NEW YORK September 9, 2016 The ‘Seven Magic Mountains’ installation by Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone, set up in the Nevada desert outside Las Vegas, was the starting point for Jason Wu’s collection which drew on the bright tints of the seven stone totems for his clothes constructed with asymmetry, ruffles and plissé. There were sporty off-the-shoulder dresses with sensual flashes of flesh and thin striped trims, compact pieces with overlapping panels of laminated sea blue, and others in tulle with fluorescent three-dimensional floral embroidery. A recurring detail was the contrasting threads zigzagging across the surfaces, which were also seen on the transparencies in the finale L’installazione ‘Seven Magic Mountains’ dell’artista svizzero Ugo Rondinone, allestita nel deserto del Nevada a poca distanza da Las Vegas, è il punto di partenza della…

NEW YORK September 13, 2016 Alongside his signature linearity and fluid, elongated shapes, Narciso Rodriguez added to his liquid silk tunics and slip dresses unexpected decorations in the form of metallic embroidery made with a thick tangle of washers, while other pieces featured an abstracted photo print of city lights. The collection was still minimal and clean, made up of a series of fluid monochrome dresses of various lengths, including some long cardigan dresses in wrinkled linen worn at times with long two-colour overcoats, alternated with classic mainly black trousers, or tuxedo trousers with silver side bands. The basic palette was enlivened by bold orange and metallic tints. A linearità e forme fluide ed allungate che sono un tratto distintivo del proprio stile, Narciso Rodriguez aggiunge, su tuniche e slip…

NEW YORK September 13, 2016 While the Mulleavy sisters at Rodarte have in the past drawn inspiration from birds, this time their eye turned to insects, and bees in particular, which could be seen in the fairy-tale, gothic feel of the collection. Mainly black and/or white dresses, all lace, flounces, transparencies and ruffles, featured honeycomb embellishments, safety pins ran along the edges of trousers like so many glossy stingers, and dense studding recalled the structure of beehives. And of course there had to be flowers, which came in the form of multi-coloured prints, bright appliqués, cut-outs, embroidery or ruches, tulle layers, cascades of ruffles and contrasting insets. So many variations on a theme in a never-ending fairy-tale. Se in una delle scorse collezioni le sorelle Mulleavy di Rodarte si erano…

NEW YORK September 14, 2016 Ralph Lauren has adopted ‘see now buy now’ but will not abandon his signature penchant for “rugged beauty and romance of the American West”. Opting for a palette that ranged from white to black to earthy tones with bright touches of purple and fuchsia in the finale, the show featured a series of cowgirl looks that blended masculine and feminine: rustic checked or embroidered shirts with fringed skirts, blouses with deep necklines with slim trousers and metal belts, slip dresses with crochet insets and the ever-present fringes worn with cowboy hats, sheath dresses with classic Native American motifs, and large themed jewellery, including maxi necklaces and drop earrings. Ralph Lauren si converte al ‘see now buy now’ ma non abbandona la predilezione per la “bellezza…

NEW YORK September 9, 2016 A spectacular fairground theme park set acted as a backdrop for Tommy Hilfiger’s ‘see now buy now’ collection, which showcased an eyecatching mix of sailor pieces, linked to his past collection, and denim and leather garments, alternated with fluid dresses, military style outerwear, sporty sweatshirts and tracksuits with lots of visible logos. Everything was thrown in, including the shapes which ranged from oversize sweaters worn as mini-dresses to sinuous skinny trousers and crop tops that bared the midriff. The focus was on red, white and blue, and on sailor motifs and prints such as anchors, rudders, crests, and little stars and stripes. The looks were completed with over the knee socks, buckled booties and neck scarves tied in a triangle with fringing covering the décolleté.…