Innholdsfortegnelse for Spring - Summer 2018 i SHOWDETAILS MEN

You do not need big studies or market research to understand the fashion industry’s increasing interest in those born between 1980 and 2000, called ‘Millennials’ or simply generation ‘Y’. Whether it’s their familiarity with communication, the media and digital technologies or their openness, arising from a more liberal education, or easier travel, meeting and exchanging with other cultures – there are many factors leading them to become the ideal target for brands and designers. Just think of the new collections being increasingly previewed on digital channels before they get to the runway, and that includes luxury brands as well. But even without looking for the sociological reasons behind it, you only need one word to explain the fascination for this generation: youth. Youth is always and forever cool, dynamic, packed…

A desire for normality was felt by the Fendi man, who adopted the American tradition of ‘Casual Friday’, i.e. dressing down on Fridays at work. Socalled corporate wear was mixed with an informal wardrobe in which a suit or just the high-waist trousers were worn with blousons, sleeveless or shortsleeved shirts, braces, thin knitwear and sporty overcoats. Ties were even worn with shorts and technical trousers. It was ‘Casual Friday’ for Balenciagatoo, where Demna Gvasalia was thinking of fathers taking a relaxing break with their kids. So not just office wear, with broad-shouldered blazers (that the brand launched a few seasons ago), basic T-shirts and Hawaiian shirts but also zipped or hooded sweatshirts tucked into high-waist trousers, oversize anoraks and technical jackets, proposed in a late ’80s, early ’90s vintagedémodé…

Il ragazzo di MSGM sogna il paese che pare in vacanza tutto l’anno, ovvero la California, e si veste di conseguenza: stampe floreali e camouflage coordinate o mixate tra loro su camicie a manica lunga portate sovrapposte ad altre a manica corta, T-shirt, bermuda di varie lunghezze, pantaloni sia affusolati che baggy, anorak, impermeabili, cui si aggiungono micro-check, madras, righe, loghi in vista e lavorazioni all’uncinetto. Il tutto in tonalità vivacissime e forme rilassate, da vero clima vacanziero. Una rilassatezza contenuta e deluxe caratterizza invece il guardaroba dell’uomo Salvatore Ferragamoche ama il glamour delle vacanze in Riviera italiana e francese, nostalgicamente legate ad uno stile di vita rétro, richiamato anche da certe pellicole cinematografiche. Pantaloni lunghi e shorts con risvolto (insolita la versione corta in velluto a coste), si portano…

TUSCAN DINNER WITH MAURIZIO BALDASSARI/CENA TOSCANA CON MAURIZIO BALDASSARI Maurizio Baldassari, with 50 indefatigable years’ experience taking him from Lerici in Liguria to Milan, has created a brand that has made its name on the international scene for Made in Italy menswear. In line with tradition, on 15 June, the increasingly popular Tuscan Dinner was once again held at his country residence near Arezzo, inviting the clients and commercial partners of the Maurizio Baldassari brand. The event has been held for over 20 years and is a unique opportunity to spend some time with international clients in Florence for Pitti Immagine Uomo. It was a pleasant evening with aperitif and dinner on the terrace, with delicious food from Tuscany and Lerici, where Maurizio was born. As ever, the congenial atmosphere…

LONDON June 11, 2017 Sailor style met workwear in this new collection from Band of Outsiders, which confirmed the collaboration of brand director Daniel Hettmann with designer Angelo Van Mol. After channelling Wes Anderson’s ‘The Royal Tenenbaums’ last season, this time the duo looked to ‘The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou’, so the looks had an eccentric, witty touch, such as the killer shark prints on knits and shirts, the breaking waves and the mini cat prints on the outerwear. There were also nautical stripes, PVC-coated cotton rain jackets, cardigans and navy blazers with the logo or other themed motifs and sporty pieces such as track pants and trainers. The trousers were mainly soft and high waist. Jeans and chinos made an appearance, as did loose bermuda shorts in monochrome…

MILANO June 17, 2017 Mainly casual with the odd touch of tailoring, Daniele Alessandrini’s D.A. show had a clear sportswear feel with clothes ranging from vests to printed T-shirts to track pants with side bands and, naturally, sneakers. A great mix of genres included military with classic camouflage on a blazer, biker style with leather and chains, a leitmotiv seen throughout the collection, and beachwear with Hawaiian shirts, alongside classic suits, baggy bermuda shorts and peaked caps. The clothes alternated relaxed lines with slimmer fitting pieces and the offering was completed with a palette of neutrals and sorbet tints. Prevalentemente casual con qualche incursione nel sartoriale, la linea D.A. di Daniele Alessandrini ha una chiara impronta sportswear con capi che vanno dalle canotte alle T-shirt stampate ai track pants con…

MILANO June 18, 2017 The presentation of next summer’s Etro collection was a preamble ahead of this September’s show, which will celebrate the brand’s 50th anniversary and pay homage to the children of the psychedelic ’60s and their spiritual journey towards India. Drawing inspiration from the textile background of his grandfather, who spent a long time in Madras alongside local weavers, Kean Etro reproduced those same informal yet finely-made fabrics for light blazers with Paisley motifs or Madras checks and matching slim fit trousers. Hand-dyed military-style jackets featured embroidery of sacred mandalas and floral motifs, further embellished with beads and metallic detailing, or else collage appliqués, worn with comfortably informal trousers. The colours were all warm orange and coral, alongside earthy tones such as brown, green and bronze to emphasise…

MILANO June 18, 2017 Angela Missoni could talk for hours about her passion for plants, so it’s no wonder the protagonist of her latest collection is an urban gardener immersed in a garden that could be a nursery. And what does this kind of man look for other than maximum comfort to move freely amongst his creatures? His is a practical wardrobe with relaxed lines even for the suits, worn with a sweater and shirt, which were also paired with turned-up shorts and jeans. The brand’s signature knitwear was even used for some of the bermuda shorts, teaming patterns and intense colours ranging from lavender to indigo, apricot to mint, while the fabrics had a faded look, as they had been dyed, blended and then washed to create that effect.…

NEW YORK July 13, 2017 The new creative director at Theory, Martin Andersson, a European enthused by New York’s energy, presented a collection with plenty of Americana, beginning with workwear inspired by military and UPS courier uniforms. There were zipped shirt-jackets and flat-front trousers, worn with white sneakers, technical jackets with drawstrings protruding from the collars and/or edges, suits with lapel-less blazers, paired with collarless shirts, over a basic T-shirt, or with hooded sweatshirt. The cuts were precise and boxy, the shapes linear, the palette mainly neutral with neon touches of acid green and orange. There were barely any accessories, aside from a large hand-held bag, with a central contrasting band, and baseball caps. Il nuovo direttore creativo di Theory, Martin Andersson, europeo entusiasta dell’energia che si respira a New…

PARIS June 21, 2017 Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga show involved dads going for a stroll with their kids in the Bois de Boulogne. Focused on the family, the brand asked its usual models if they had children and, if so, to bring them along. The clothes they all wore were basic T-shirts, fluid shirts, oversize jackets with big shoulders, ‘three-phase’ jeans or trousers made of three different fabrics, such as denim, leather and velvet. All 57 looks revolved around the concept of informal menswear, ideal for weekends spent with the children, and dress-down Friday borrowed from the American tradition. So there were long-sleeved polo shirts, zipped or hooded sweatshirts tucked into high-waist trousers, oversize technical anoraks and jackets, leather and denim jackets topped with a plastic overlay, while everything had a…

LONDON June 11, 2017 Chalayan continues to stay away from the crowd with this latest collection, which took a polemic stance against the dependency on social media and what he called ‘like’ culture and, rather than drawing inspiration from this or that, he looked solely to his own creative streak, affirming “I do what I am”. Chalayan proposed sporty key pieces and streetwear such as sweatshirts, zipped hooded jackets, shorts and baggy trousers, which featured a folding detail that ‘peeled’ the fabric, mesh insets, and braces that allowed adjustable lengths. The shirts gained buttons on the sleeves or ribbons shot through the surfaces and/ or hanging laces, while some of the jackets resembled kimono. The palette was dominated by basic colours and monochrome, with a few delicate leaf prints. Canvas…

MILANO June 17, 2017 “NYC, where I live, provides me with constant street-style inspiration. It’s so eclectic. I wanted a runway as close to reality as possible.” No sooner said than done. Andreas Melbostad for Diesel Black Gold presented a collection in which streetwear with a Nineties feel blended with a strongly contemporary techno mood and layered looks: leggings came in black leather or else had sporty side bands worn under loose bermuda shorts partially covered by extra-long knits or checked shirts, which were in turn topped with biker or sleeveless jackets, parkas or overcoats. Super-skinny leggings aside, the rest of the clothes were rather soft and loose, transmitting functionality and comfort, along with that touch of grunge that has made a strong comeback to the runways along with the…

MILANO June 17, 2017 Dolce & Gabbana’s infatuation for Millennials, which began a few seasons ago, continued in this latest show featuring an army of twentysomethings (and even younger) wearing every kind of clothing possible, from formal to sporty to streetwear, with the nonchalance they implement so successfully in their everyday and virtual lives. The show opened with tailored suits, and some pyjamas, in silk and bold metallic colours, but streetwear soon followed: fluid short-sleeved shirts and T-shirts worn with patterned cigarette pants, comfortable bermuda shorts or sporty leggings, sweatshirts with or without a hood, branded and/ or printed bombers, crew neck knits tucked into track pants, baseball blousons and embroidered polo shirts. Everything was dominated by playing card motifs, with a preference for the king of hearts, perhaps because…

MILANO June 17, 2017 Japan provided the inspiration for Emporio Armani, without indulging in exoticism or folklore. This collection from King Giorgio’s second line was a dialogue between East and West, in which the minimal elegance of Japanese iconography blended seamlessly with Italian tailoring to produce suits with kimono jackets, trousers inspired by martial arts with a sort of rear skirt that buttoned off, blazers with delicate peach blossom prints, calligraphy motifs or graffiti. Shirts and blouses had stand-up collars or bias fasteners, while there were also floral or lacquer red bombers, perforated leather and embroidered biker jackets, different styles of trousers ranging from bermuda shorts to wide calf-length pants with elastic waist and classic darted pieces. Accessories such as wrestler-style headbands, rigid necklaces with metal clasps and brooches with…

MILANO June 19, 2017 GCDS made its debut on the Milan runways with a collection that reflected the Neapolitan brand’s streetwear vibe to celebrate its roots, drawing inspiration from sailing with tuna prints and other themed subjects on the mainly waterproof surfaces. There were hooded sweatshirts worn with gilets or anoraks, striped knits, shorts, bermuda shorts and sporty trousers, tracksuits and technical fabric suits featuring contrasting patches, colour blocking, logos and reflective details. The bold palette included neon green and red paired with basics such as black and white, while navy blue, teamed mainly with yellow, inevitably recalled the sea and fishing. The accessories were also technical, with backpacks of different sizes, various types of sneakers, often with a chunky contrasting sole, wraparound glasses and baseball caps. GCDS debutta sulle…

PARIS June 21, 2017 Haider Ackermann is a designer that, while staying true to himself season after season, always has the power to change, turning what could become boring into something new and appetising. Maybe it’s down to his new venture as creative director at Berluti, but his latest collections especially have been infused with a particular energy, as was this one for next summer, dedicated to a young, rebellious spirit seeking his place in the world. Part nomad, part pirate, he wore leather pieces and fluid shirts or wraparound jackets open over a bare chest, mainly in black and white but with a surprising lilac suit thrown in. Loose trousers were worn low to reveal the underwear and paired with flip-flops. Stripes and polka dots also appeared in total…

FIRENZE June 14, 2017 Staged in the spectacular gardens of the Villa La Pietra in Florence, J.W.Anderson’s ‘normal’ collection turned away from recent eccentric shows, which veered towards unisex and science-fiction, to return to practical menswear inspired by pop culture and mixed with beachwear and lots of denim, some in total looks. There were T-shirts and shirts with heart prints worn with bermuda shorts, some with all-over designs, vests, hooded sweatshirts and jeans with the vintage Coca-Cola logo, biker jackets, fisherman knits and Breton sweaters, all paired with flip-flops and Converse All Stars, as a result of the designer’s latest collaboration with the sports brand. Later in the show, Anderson played with hemlines and asymmetry, patchwork and fringes, keeping his place as the playful enfant prodige of fashion. Nella suggestiva…

PARIS June 25, 2017 These are unsettling, hectic times, with information coming at us from all sides. The new collection by Lucas Ossendrjiver for Lanvin aimed to reflect on our contemporary chaos by mixing cuts, proportions and styles not in a random way but choosing options carefully and beautifully, as the designer put it. So, the big two menswear genres, tailoring and military/workwear, were blended to produce hybrids with added sport/ streetwear and folk touches and colour combinations that had the basics paired with bold and unusual tints. The first exit was significant: a classic purple coat worn over grey overalls over a white T-shirt. The following looks mixed formal pieces and fabrics, such as a double-breasted blazer or Prince of Wales, the former with track pants and side bands…

LONDON June 11, 2017 Streetwear fused with rock and punk was the order of the day for Mihara Yasuhiro, who re-proposed some of his ‘greatest hits’, including oversize overcoats with mesh insets, frayed denim jackets and tracksuits with prints and lettering. As well as the outerwear, everything from hooded sweatshirts to sweaters with extra-long sleeves to jeans came in extra-large volumes. Jeans had rips or frayed hems or patches and other types of appliqués, which also featured on biker jackets, checked shirts and T-shirts. There was lots of lettering and slogans such as ‘#nothing’ or ‘Blank Mirrors’ (a reference to an imaginary band created by the designer for this collection), a stratagem that nodded to these virtual times in which distinguishing the real from the unreal is an arduous task.…

LOS ANGELES June 8, 2017 The American dream invaded the Moschino runway on an ideal journey between Los Angeles and Las Vegas, “two cities for dreamers”, as defined by the very American Jeremy Scott, the brand’s creative director. After the pessimism and rage following Trump’s election, Scott resumed his customary optimism and poured it into a collection made up of cowboys and motorcyclists travelling the legendary Route 66 in pursuit of their dreams. The looks followed the theme, with biker jackets decorated with little studs, jeans with bright appliqués down the leg tucked into pointed metallic boots, black leather outfits and/or trousers, tailored suits over bare skin decorated with burning flames. There were also, in pure Moschino spirit, ironic motifs such as cartoon cars reproduced on T-shirts, pin-up silhouettes applied…

FIRENZE June 15, 2017 A special guest at the latest edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, Virgil Abloh, the designer who is also an engineer, architect and DJ, and Kanye West’s former right-hand man, presented a collection entitled ‘Temperature’ and it was not hard to make the connection with climate change - a very hot topic right now. The clothes were mostly technical with a streetwear feel: shortor long-sleeved shirts were tucked into very short yet wide shorts with elasticated waist, which resembled skirts, or with loose high-waist trousers, some of which were sporty and puddled over solid sneakers. Some of the shirts and T-shirts were shot through with invisible zips that opened over the abdomen, while other tops were handknitted. The outerwear was oversize yet light, in nylon or other…

MILANO June 17, 2017 Philipp Plein’s models looked straight out of ‘Grease’ with a love of ‘Fast & Furious’-style racing. Greased hair complete with quiff, cigarette in the hand or behind one ear, T-shirts with rolled up sleeves worn with lots of chain necklaces, a rebellious, irreverent look - all the ingredients were there for a challenge with fire, like the flames reproduced on the bottoms of jeans and sporty trousers and on bomber sleeves in bold red that contrasted with black or denim blue. Another recurring motif was car racing prints (the clothes included a competition suit) and tigers and snakes applied in swarovski to shoulders, sleeves, front and back, but there were also studded biker jackets, patched denim jackets, sequinned bombers and blazers and shirts worn with a…

PARIS June 22, 2017 Rick Owens’ recent interest in Land Art, a contemporary art form in which the artist uses natural and usually unspoiled nature, influenced his latest collection that was like an artwork taking shape, beginning with the rough and primitive and developing into a more evolved look at the show went on. The opening looks were bare-chested or featured sleeveless or torn tops, or else made from different materials including gauze, some accessorised with big bags, paired with mini-shorts. The looks then gradually became more complex and covered up. Trousers were long and high waist, tapered and oversize with hems trailing on the ground. Jackets were cropped and sleeveless or long, comfortable, single or double-breasted, with contrasting insets or maxi pockets or transparent sleeves. Solid footwear with chunky…

PARIS June 21, 2017 The VLTN logo, used by Valentino in the ’80s, reappeared on shirts and T-shirts. Pierpaolo Piccioli confessed he had never liked it but had been convinced to use it by the young guys on his team who love it. That’s the power of Millennials and that’s why the collection was made to measure for them, with colour-blocked anoraks and technical jackets, zipped or hooded sweatshirts that either matched or clashed with the trousers, ethnic embroidery, cropped leather jackets over classic shirts worn outside chinos, and a masculine take on the ‘pussy bow’ collar. Naturally, there were also denim outfits, track pants with side bands, colourful sneakers and that logo emblazoned across surfaces like the new generation making its voice heard. Un logo come VLTN, utilizzato dalla…

PARIS June 22, 2017 “New winds are blowing” said Yohji Yamamoto backstage after his show, which featured fluid and mainly androgynous shapes that concealed the designer’s fascination for genderswapping clothes. This meant that there is no clear boundary, not least on this runway, between menswear and womenswear, and the long robes in the finale, decorated with unsettling portraits of artist Suzume Uchida, were proof of that. The opening looks, leather biker jackets in unusual colours worn over printed maxi T-shirts and loose calf-length trousers, also had that delicate relaxed feel that had less to do with gender and more to do with a search for comfort and lightness. For the rest, Yamamoto used the surfaces of the clothes like canvases, covering them with graphic details, lettering, brushstrokes of colour or…

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Dolce & Gabbana has been interested in Millennials for several seasons now. The creative duo love their audience of social media-mad Instagrammers, dedicating to them an eclectic collection ranging from the formal suit to streetwear to the tuxedo and featuring bright colours, some metallic, bold floral prints, manga cartoons, graphic details and, above all, playing cards, with lines spanning fluid to snug. Dior Homme also targeted the under 30s with a sportswear take on the classic wardrobe. The short suit, with a sleeveless blazer and short, the flared Bar jacket, ‘promotional’ plates and rosettes decorating sleeves, lapels and trims, baggy trousers and pieces borrowed from sport, with stripes, crests and contrasting college lettering. The footwear was, of course, sneakers. A deluxe version of the Hawaiian shirt, branded or layered with…

Non ci vogliono grandi studi né particolari ricerche di mercato per capire il motivo del sempre più acceso interesse del mondo della moda per quella generazione nata tra il 1980 e il 2000 chiamata ‘Millennial’ o semplicemente ‘Y’. Dalla familiarità di questi giovani con la comunicazione, i media e le tecnologie digitali, alla loro apertura, dovuta ad un’educazione più liberale, alla maggiore facilità negli spostamenti, nei viaggi, nell’incontro e scambio con altre culture, sono tanti i fattori che li rendono target ideale di brand e designer. Basti pensare alle anteprime delle nuove collezioni che, sempre più spesso, appaiono prima sui canali digitali e poi in passerella e che riguardano anche i marchi del lusso. Ma anche senza ricercare motivazioni di tipo sociologico, basterebbe una sola parola per spiegare il motivo…

Il desiderio di normalità investe in pieno l’uomo Fendi che adotta la tradizione americana del ‘Casual Friday’, cioè del vestire casual il venerdì in ufficio. Il cosiddetto corporatewear si mixa così ad un guardaroba informale in cui l’abito o il solo pantalone classico a vita alta si portano con blouson, camicie smanicate o a manica corta, bretelle, maglieria sottile e soprabiti sportivi. Sdoganati anche gli shorts con la cravatta e i pantaloni tecnici. ‘Casual Friday’ anche da Balenciagail cui direttore creativo Demna Gvasalia pensa ai padri di famiglia nei loro momenti di relax con i figli; quindi non solo ufficio, con blazer dalle maxispalle (come ha lanciato lo stesso marchio qualche stagione fa), T-shirt basiche e camicie hawaiane ma anche felpe zippate o con il cappuccio infilate dentro pantaloni a…

COURSES FOR FUTURE BUYERS WITH UNICOLLEGE/PERCORSI FORMATIVI PER FUTURI BUYER CON UNICOLLEGE Renewed horizons in the fashion training sector: in order to counter the broad offer of courses in styling, fashion design and pattern making, new professional roles are taken into consideration and so a master’s degree, focused on the important figure of the buyer, was developed. The master’s, organized by Unicollege, is made possible thanks to a partnership between Adiuva, a consultancy and advanced training firm, and Nuova Libra, the publisher with twenty years’ experience and competence in fashion. The master’s will be called ‘Buyer 2.0: professional manager in fashion activities’. It will explore the role of the buyer in the fashion sector, analyzing it from various viewpoints, in relation to the complexity of the offer, the multiplication of…

LONDON June 12, 2017 Inspired by the epic scale and landscapes of the Paris-Dakar rally, the new Belstaff collection mixed high-performing technical fabrics with the retro sporty graphics traditionally favoured by the drivers as they crossed unexplored territory, in contact with different cultures and customs and ancient traditions. Delphine Ninous focused on the late ’70s, early ’80s period, when the race still had a spiritual sense of exploration and challenge more than a mere competition. Biker jackets with contrasting side bands, zipped sweatshirts and track pants were thus given a vintage feel, T-shirts and crew neck sweaters featured retro graphics, while leather or suede jackets had a lived-in, aged feel accentuated by the sandy desert tones. Jeans also had a ‘used’ look about them, windbreakers, on the other hand, were…

MILANO June 19, 2017 ‘Letters from War’ by Portuguese director Ivo Ferreira was adapted from love letters written by António Lobo Antunes to his wife during his time in the colonial war in Angola. This film inspired Ivan Tafuro’s new collection for streetwear brand Dondup and infused a gentler, more poetic feel here. First of all, the colours were softer; there was lots of pale pink in the floral camouflage that gained a more delicate look because of it. Denim was bleached and the knitwear patterns were faded yet still bright. The tailored pieces had more relaxed, airy lines, there were few shirts and more T-shirts, hooded sweatshirts were worn under a blazer, while a ‘field jacket’ became a go-to choice in new hues and materials, such as a cotton…

MILANO June 19, 2017 Fausto Puglisi’s new collection is a journey through sun-drenched sights such as the beaches at La Jolla in California, and the night-life of Ocean Drive in Miami, in which Latin-American and hip hop cultures meet. The looks mainly included sweatshirts with and without a hood, T-shirts, shirts open over a bare chest and comfortable bermuda shorts. The differences lay in the colours and prints which, for the day-time surfer and skateboarder looks, were bright with tie-dye designs and the iconic sun, while the night-time urban looks were dark and featured lots of black leather, studs, golden details and Greek-Roman statues. A floral print inspired by rare tropical flowers featured on the white background of a silky sporty outfit. Gladiator or maxi gold buckle sandals were worn…

MILANO June 17, 2017 Like many other formal or eveningwear labels, Ralph Lauren Purple Label’s presentation, for next summer, featured a lot of sportswear with references ranging from canoeing to rugby, cycling to athletics. His men are members of exclusive clubs, whose branded crests appeared on impeccable single and double-breasted blazers worn with white trousers which, in some looks, were decorated with sporty mottos and symbols, but also on vintage car driver (deluxe) overalls worn with suede loafers. There were also vintage references to the Tour de France, with the image of a cyclist decorating a crew neck sweater, polo shirts with themed lettering and leggings-trousers with elastic edges, while track pants with side bands recalled athletics. The tailored suits were soft and light and worn with espadrilles. Come tante…

MILANO June 18, 2017 Here is another designer taking on the challenge of reinterpreting the classics whilst upholding the current trend for casual and sportswear increasingly blended with formal wear. Andrea Incontri for Tod’s tried to “modernize and experiment” to build a collection made up of impeccable tailored suits on the one hand and informal looks on the other. The key for the designer is his work with materials, especially leather, which was treated to look like denim or canvas. The outerwear, military- and workwear inspired jackets, and the loafers and sneakers, had the faded look of denim or canvas despite being made of leather. Incontri also coined the term ‘cloudflage’ – a play on the word camouflage that saw jackets and shirts printed with steam. Ecco un altro designer…

PARIS June 24, 2017 An all-black & white collection from Balmain, in which creative director Olivier Rousteing declared his love for France and showed his support for newly elected President Emmanuel Macron, whom he had openly backed during the campaign. And what better to channel this Francophile’s love than Breton stripes, which Rousteing used to decorate classic crew neck knits and wraparound sweaters with deep V necklines, cadet jackets embellished with chains, maxi T-shirts - all worn over skinny trousers and boots with metal toe caps. Elsewhere, baroque swirls inspired by French interiors were featured on overcoats, boxy and biker jackets, shirts and knits, often layered over one another. But there was also lots of America in this collection, another of Rousteing’s passions made evident by the use of stars…

LONDON June 11, 2017 Slawomir Rawicz was a Polish officer and writer whose ‘The Long Walk’ recounted his escape from a Siberian gulag and subsequent 6,500-kilometer walk. Christopher Raeburn was inspired by this extreme experience to produce a series of highly technical, highperforming layered clothes made from re-used materials, including a synthetic orange kite fabric paired with jersey and mesh. Outerwear dominated, from capes to overcoats to windbreakers worn over T-shirts, hooded sweatshirts, little zipped jackets paired with sporty trousers and bermuda shorts that featured patchwork or sand-coloured camouflage. Some garments came with technical tulle overlays, which in some of the looks was worn against the skin like a sheer cloak, while the collection featured lots of drawstrings and hanging strings emblazoned with the words ‘remade reduced recycled’ and, naturally,…

PARIS June 24, 2017 This round of shows has been particularly full of adolescents and younger men in general. Kris Van Assche could not withstand the irresistible charm of youth, so Dior Homme showcased a collection that had the brand’s DNA, with references to the Bar jacket and floral motifs, but also offered garments and combinations to catch the new generation’s eye. Aside from being worn with sneakers, the tailored suit was made up of mainly sleeveless, slim blazers with ‘promotional’ plaques and rosettes bearing the brand’s address, 3 Rue Matignon, applied or hung on lapels and/or sleeves, while a ribbon with the same lettering was used to trim formal and casual jackets. Long trousers were alternated with ultra-short shorts that almost disappeared under a blazer, while many other pieces,…

PARIS June 22, 2017 Dries Van Noten showcased his study of colours and prints and their relationship and impact on volumes. The designer’s customary palette of basic and bold tints made way for a series of dull, muted shades that Van Noten called “strange skin tones”: khaki, pale yellow and sea blue paired with earth tones and shades of green on clothes that mixed tailoring and casual with a touch of military on top. The many shirts, with short wide sleeves or long-sleeved, featured epaulettes, big pockets and sometimes a matching tie, worn tucked into high-waist trousers cinched with an extra-long belt with buckle and hanging lace or worn outside over shorts, some of which were frayed and/or in denim. Not even Van Noten could resist this season’s coolest piece,…

MILANO June 16, 2017 Milan is full of secret places like this one. And I love the idea of confronting classicism with a modern approach.” So says Alessandro Sartori, who for his second collection for Ermenegildo Zegna chose to stage his show in a courtyard of the Università Statale, a Renaissance architectural gem transformed into an almost futuristic set with a rust-coloured carpet inspired by the coat of the vicuña, a llamalike creature from the Andes whose extremely fine wool Zegna often uses in its clothes. This rusty colour was also found in the collection, alongside grey, geranium, brown and beige. Aside from a few structured outerwear pieces, the looks were soft and sporty. Light blousons were paired with tailored track pants and sandals or sneakers, silk knits replaced T-shirts…

MILANO June 19, 2017 At Giorgio Armani you can be sure of two things: ‘greige’, the blend of grey and beige, and that other equally quintessential Armani piece, the jacket, which has been increasingly destructured in recent seasons. This show opened with greige in the form of a double-breasted duster coat over a soft yet crisp linen suit with soft darted trousers. Blazers came in infinite varieties, single and double-breasted, neutral or colourful, tortoiseshell print or jacquard, matching or separates, while the many classic menswear fabrics used included Prince of Wales, houndstooth and pinstripe. Even the more formal suits had a relaxed, soft look, as though ruffled by a sea breeze, and the light crew neck sweaters, loose bermuda shorts, multi-pocketed safari jackets and final white suits gave off a…

PARIS June 23, 2017 Can a classic deluxe brand like Hermès succeed in showing a ‘normal’ and yet special collection, in which casual goes hand in hand with impeccable design and perfection? Véronique Nichanian defined the mood of the collection as “sophisticated letting go”, which encapsulated the painstaking cuts and details in combination with the relaxed shapes, the touch of sportswear playing down the formal suits. Visible stitching on jackets, shirts and trousers recalled workwear, contrasting stripes on thin knitwear created the optical illusion of the torso slimming at the waist, zipped technical jackets with and without a hood in glossy Toilbright fabric were worn under a sharp blazer or premium leather jacket. In short, everything was designed to tone down the luxury, even the use and combinations of colours,…

PARIS June 23, 2017 Reality, normality, everyday life - these are terms that many designers have used to describe their latest collections. For Junya Watanabe the everyday is all about work and “the legit way to wear workwear”. Watanabe showcased a series of utilitarian looks in collaboration with Carhartt and Levi’s that featured pockets large and small, contrasting insets, visible stitching, splashes of colour like blotches of paint, in mainly brown and blue shades in keeping with the theme. Also suitable for the mood were boxy jackets, comfortable trousers or bermuda shorts, matching or separates, but also more tapered jeans with turnups, solid colour or checked or striped shirts, basic or printed T-shirts, shirtjackets and patchwork anoraks made with pieces of backpacks. Realtà, normalità, vita di tutti i giorni, sono…

MILANO June 17, 2017 The research carried out by the creative duo Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch at Les Hommes found inspiration in ancient samurai armour, which materialised as sleeveless kimono cassocks, loose trousers with overlapping skirts inspired by martial arts, surfaces made of woven leather laces coming out of metal eyelets, embroidered dragons, and multiple extra-long belts similar to obis. However, the cuts and garments still had a contemporary street and sportswear feel: hooded sweat T-shirts, basic vests, baggy bermuda shorts over leggings, high-top sneakers with maxi-strap and often sleeveless outerwear with big pockets and zips. Overall, the image was strongly masculine and sharp, like the metallic piercings applied to the side of the mouth and the razor blade earrings made in collaboration with New York jeweller Chrishabana. La…

MILANO June 17, 2017 While last season Marcelo Burlon imagined rebuilding a world after a tornado, this time around civilisation is recreated by a group of (very dark) surfers venturing along the Patagonia coastline. Drawing inspiration from a film on the subject, Burlon produced tough streetwear fused with California and other more expected surf destinations. Baggy, below-the-knee bermuda shorts alternated with sporty trousers, often matching the sweatshirts with and without a hood, T-shirts, shirts and bombers decorated with tropical prints and graphic patterns, at times topped with technical overcoats. Obviously, tattooed pectorals were almost always on show or glimpsed under string vests or cropped hems - in short, all part of the script. Se nella scorsa stagione Marcelo Burlon immaginava la ricostruzione del proprio mondo dopo il passaggio di un…

MILANO June 18, 2017 Branded, sporty and colourful, the MSGM collection is a homage to carefree travels on the West Coast. Dreaming of California, Massimo Giorgetti decorated shirts, anoraks, trenches, bermuda shorts and trousers with floral and camouflage prints, some of which were all-over, even throwing in checks, madras and stripes in bold tones. Embroidered flowers blossomed on tailored outfits and jeans and embroidered lettering in rainbow colours embellished rough crew neck sweaters worn with checked shorts. This psychedelic part of the show was juxtaposed against logo-mania in black and white, which featured tracksuits, sweatshirts, T-shirts, vests, track pants, baseball caps and beach towels. Overall, the collection had the relaxed, holiday feel of many of the runways in Milan and beyond. Logata, sportiva, colorata, la collezione di MSGM è un…

MILANO June 19, 2017 Palm Angels’ young men were made to suffer the Californian sun while covered from head to foot, with a few exceptions, by the brand’s creative director Francesco Ragazzi. Entitled ‘Black Sun’, it drew inspiration from the 1986 surf riot in Huntington Beach, where the largest annual professional surfing competition is held and disputes often erupt. California and surfing were the basic themes behind these ‘urban warrior’ or ‘beach resort’ looks. Tracksuits with side bands and/or colour blocking had collars and hoods pulled up to cover part of the face, oversize sweatshirts and kimono shirts were cinched at the waist with an extra-long technical belt over nylon trousers or bermuda shorts, while multi-pocketed jackets were paired with cargo trousers. The patterns ranged from camouflage to Californian palm…

MILANO June 18, 2017 The new passion of the Prada man is comics, which Miuccia admits she is drawn to as decorative motifs because they are “hand-drawn, human, simple and real”. And yet the show was not a parade of superheroes but of human beings, who do not always necessarily win out in the end, wearing nylon overalls fastened at the ankle with velcro straps, solid colour or cartoonprinted shirts-polo shirts worn with contrasting raised collars and sleeves rolled up to the biceps, tucked into technical or tweed trousers with big turn-ups, or else tiny shorts. The overalls turned elegant when paired with a coat with solid shoulders, also in tweed, while formal suits featuring high-waist trousers with inside leg bands were as light as tracksuits. Cardigans with breast pocket…

MILANO June 18, 2017 The glamour and lifestyle of the French and Italian Rivieras, especially from a few decades ago, provided the inspiration for Guillaume Meilland’s new collection for Salvatore Ferragamo, which compared the two Mediterranean cultures while thinking of René Clément’s ’60s movie ‘Plein Soleil’ starring a devastatingly cool Alain Delon. The deluxe holiday feel featured relaxed yet refined lines and handknitted cropped knitwear alternated with long or short-sleeved shirts tucked into trousers or bermuda shorts, some of which were corduroy, while coral or seahorses were printed or embroidered onto shirts and shorts. Terry cloth overcoats, unlined leather pieces, fabric blousons, and classic matching suits or separates in monochrome or check completed the chic Riviera wardrobe. La Riviera francese e quella italiana, il glamour e lo stile di vita,…

MILANO June 17, 2017 Twenty years after the tragic death of her brother Gianni, Donatella paid homage with a collection in pure Versace style, featuring iconic prints and a re-assembly of past codes for a new generation of consumers. The show opened with long and short pinstripe suits with statement shoulders and, in some cases, panels of contrasting fabric inset into blazers and/or trousers. Optical or ‘frame’, ‘ballet’ or ‘angel’ designs from the brand’s archive were printed on silk shirts but also on quilted blousons and bombers worn with black cargo trousers or pyjama-suits. Pastel T-shirts were emblazoned with a white logo, deluxe tracksuits featured a crown embroidered with beads and crystals on the sweatshirt, while delicate cropped twin-sets were like a bolt from the blue in such a masculine,…

The MSGM young man dreams of California, a state seemingly on a permanent holiday, and dresses accordingly: matching or mixed floral and camouflage prints on long-sleeved shirts worn over short-sleeved shirts, Tshirts, bermuda shorts of various lengths, tapered and baggy trousers, anoraks, trenches, along with micro-checks, madras, stripes, visible logos and crochet. Everything came in bold tints and relaxed shapes, fit for a holiday feel. The relaxed vibe had a deluxe edge at Salvatore Ferragamo which loves the glamour of holidaying on the Italian and French Rivieras, nostalgically connected to the retro lifestyle also seen in certain films. Long and short trousers with turn-ups (the corduroy shorts especially caught the eye) were worn with handmade knitwear and/or monochrome or patterned shirts. The latter also featured coral and seahorses, which also…

NEW PROJECTS FOR CAOSORDINATO/NUOVI PROGETTI PER CAOSORDINATO CAOSORDINATO - Anything Works is the book created by Stefano and Corinna Chiassai published in 2016 by Nuova Libra Editrice: a new detailed, multimedia initiative has developed out of it. The CAOSORDINATO Cultural Project is a visual emotion designed to arouse curiosity about history, culture, tradition and technical innovation by placing emotions and creativity at the heart of its work. The project takes place ahead of the publication of a new book that will be officially presented at Pitti Immagine Uomo in June 2018, and comprises cultural events taking place as follows: ‘Jacquarding’ took place in July 2017, ‘Leather Archive’ in October 2017 and ‘Uniform Road’ in February 2018 will be next. Each of the events is held at the same time as…

MILANO June 17, 2017 A style as constant and reliable as the one who creates it. Brunello Cucinelli is reflected in his own brand season after season and he does so without ever moving away from that mix of formal and informal featuring impeccable blazers, crisp shirts at times replaced with a T-shirt, ankle-length trousers with and without turn-ups and premium knitwear. In this new collection, the clothes had a sporty feel, with references to tennis, but Cucinelli says he was inspired by the film ‘Out of Africa’ for the double-breasted jackets and safari jackets – in lightweight fabrics such as linen, normally used for shirting – and for colours ranging from tobacco to amber alongside flashes of burnt orange and red. Drawstring trousers alternated with bermuda shorts, jeans and…

MILANO June 19, 2017 Changing and/or mixing periods and cultures; this is the new diktat for menswear from Ermanno Scervino, who reinterpreted British style by teaming tailoring with sporty clothes, details and accessories. Military overcoats were layered over micro and macro check shirts, unbuttoned at the chest, and jeans with fringed hems, while linen kaftanshirts, decorated with pop patches, were worn half tucked into soft track pants with side band and drawstring waist and sneakers, some without laces. These were alternated with oversize trousers and bermuda shorts paired with cashmere or cotton sweaters with palm tree motifs layered over Breton stripes in bold red, yellow and fuchsia. One look paired shorts with a Prince of Wales blazer, updated with brushstrokes of colour. ‘Today I love you’ and ‘just for today’,…

MILANO June 22, 2017 Husband-and-wife duo Luke and Lucie Meier have just been appointed Jil Sander’s creative directors, teaming the brand’s tradition for sharp cuts, masculine-and-feminine play and neutral tones with a personal touch that softened some of the looks, whose proportions oscillated between rigorous and relaxed, with the addition of unusual decorative details. The iconic white shirt came in many variations, including an extra-long, dress version or with a puffy collar, while overcoats were either flared and dynamic or else linear and structured, decorated with shirting stripes or micro-checks resembling pixels. The details recalled a certain military severity, like the padded bustier belts or the workwear style seen in the big-pocketed outerwear. Il duo Luke e Lucie Meier, marito e moglie nella vita, reggono con entusiasmo il timone creativo…

PARIS June 22, 2017 Some designers in this round of shows have drawn inspiration from the Paris-Dakar rally and its landscapes. Béatrice Ferrant for Rochas looked to the legendary Le Mans race, adding references to car racing to her clothes and details. A leather jacket was decorated with giant contrasting numbers, recalling the racers’ order numbers, there were (deluxe) mechanic’s and driver’s overalls, blazers and shirts with themed plates, trousers and knits were shot through with grooves and ridges to mimic tyre treads, T-shirts were printed with the original race route, outerwear and trousers were made of the same material as mesh driving gloves, some pieces came in metallized silver. In general, it was a very masculine collection that alternated relaxed with slimmer lines and originally handled a theme that…

PARIS June 25, 2017 With its leather, heavy outerwear and chunky jumpers, this collection had little to do with summer but Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen was picking up on the last womenswear collection’s pagan rituals from ancient Cornwall and connecting its motifs and weight to menswear. There were plenty of leather pieces, from extra-long overcoats to biker jackets, some sleeveless, packed with zips over the jackets and trousers, followed by impeccable single and double-breasted tailored suits. But then came a broderie anglaise outfit and this is where menswear connected back to womenswear: check trousers were belted with red climbing cord, which was also used to cinch the waist of chunky Fair Isle jumpers, ‘Clootie trees’ yarns hung off knits, jackets, trousers, printed denim outfits and the finale looks, which…

NEW YORK July 11, 2017 Ingo Wilts for Boss showcased deluxe casual urban style that mixed nautical with workwear without sacrificing tailoring, with relaxed single and double-breasted jackets worn with cotton grandad shirts and trousers or shorts, with high waist and darts and a hem that tightened over the sneakers. The rest of the looks ranged from utilitarian overalls with visible stitching to collarless, hooded trenches and overcoats worn over funnel necks and T-shirts tucked into soft bermuda shorts or trousers, while some of the glossy technical jackets turned out to be made of leather. Some pieces featured the latitude and longitude of the Boss store in Columbus Circle, while others, including accessories such as fishermen’s hats, neck scarves and belts, were stamped with ‘H-B-N-Y’ - all these details made…

PARIS June 23, 2017 The Comme des Garçons runway was a dance floor populated with boys in glossy black caps, oversize patchwork jackets, baggy glittery bermuda shorts and colourful sneakers. Demonstrating yet more influence from the young, the designer produced magical yet unsettling dolls hanging off blazers in the finale and reproduced in prints on maxi T-shirts worn under sleeveless patchwork jackets. There were also draped bermuda shorts that swelled enormously around the legs and calflength trousers with an extra-low crotch, while the most grown-up, serious piece in the look, the shirt, was played down by sequins, glitter, bold floral prints or animal motifs, which were also used in colourful versions to decorate cropped crew neck sweaters. La passerella di Comme des Garçons è una pista da ballo popolata da…

MILANO June 18, 2017 Lee Wood, the new creative director of Dirk Bikkembergs, continued to renew the brand by drawing inspiration for next summer from Brutalist architecture, made up of clean cuts and simple shapes in basic tones that emphasised the understated mood, with a single surprising dash of acid green. No frills, then, just the bare necessities to dress comfortably and in a masculine way, because the brand’s DNA must be respected. Single and double-breasted blazers were worn over bare skin, either matching or separates with trousers that were either soft or slim and straight with big turn-ups. Outerwear, parkas and blousons were oversize, while tops, knits and sleeveless T-shirts were cropped. There were lots of sporty touches, such as the vertical stripes inspired by rugby kit, but in…

MILANO June 18, 2017 Lots of daring and excessive mixing on the Dsquared2 runway, which opened with a gay bar client: black leather beret, scarf knotted at the neck over a jewelled choker, Hawaiian short-sleeved shirt, skinny leopard print trousers with side buckles all the way down the leg. The rest of the outfits followed more or less in the same vein, with variations ranging from a leather and/or leopard print biker jacket to a ruched vest, from sweatshirts with and without a hood to a boy scout shirt with crest patches - all of which featured brass buckles along the sleeves. Black leather was also used for trousers, at times topped by tropical print bermuda shorts or tropical printed themselves, in bold colours such as red, blue and yellow.…

MILANO June 19, 201 On the Fendi runway it’s always Friday, or rather ‘Fendi Friday’, which is also the title given to the collection. The American tradition of dress-down Friday becomes a trend as well as a desire for normality, for relaxed dressing that teams tailoring and sportswear. This meant soft suits, which lost a little structure, worn without a tie but the winning combination was a mix of casual wear and corporate wear, i.e. comfortable blousons and jackets or sporty overcoats over a shirt and tie and/or braces, high-waist trousers or shorts of various lengths, or thin knitwear paired with technical trousers. In keeping with the mood, British artist Sue Tilley reproduced everyday objects, such as glasses, cups and corkscrews, on shirts and knits to produce a simplicity that…

MILANO June 19, 2017 While the latest shows accustomed us to oversize shapes even in tailoring, Grey Daniele Alessandrini’s latest collection bucked that trend in favour of snug or tight-fitting clothes, with single and double-breasted slim jackets and lean trousers that widened slightly at the bottom. Shirts and knits were also slim, worn tucked in or outside trousers, but the edge never fell below the length of the blazer, while softer casual fare came in the form of T-shirts, bermuda shorts and outerwear, including leather biker jackets. Flying hot-air balloons motifs and colourful bands, used mainly for the knitwear, emphasised the youthful, carefree mood, which was further enlivened by a palette of bold, bright tints alongside the basics. Se le ultime passerelle ci hanno abituato a forme oversize che coinvolgono…

FIRENZE June 13, 2017 A portrait of an artist, or rather of artists, on the Hugo runway, for which creative director Bart De Backer drew inspiration from figures such as Basquiat to produce a relaxed, casual style that favoured oversize shapes and soft cuts, just like the German brand’s very first collection in 1993, which inspired De Backer. All-white outfits opened the show with loose blazers and/or shirts with comfortable trousers puddling over solid sneakers, some of which were paint-splattered. Abstract prints followed on T-shirts and vests so thin they were transparent, worn under pyjama-suits or more elegant suits. Loose belted overalls, work jackets, basic overcoats and sweaters with extra-long sleeves completed this collection of comfortable clothes in basic colours, brightened by red and prints. Ritratto d’artista, o meglio di…

PARIS June 25, 2017 The bricked courtyard of a school was criss-crossed by South East Asian models resembling so many impeccably dressed students sporting blazers complete with pocket chain and three layered pockets on each side. Underneath, patterned shirts came with a classic or mandarin collar with tie loops and soft matching or separate high-waist trousers, a large buckle belt and darts or else bermuda shorts in the same style - all teamed with ballet flats with strap. These were followed by more casual looks made up of vests and long or short-sleeved shirts with sporty slogans, tucked into ’50s baseball trousers worn with boxing boots. Bold tints ranged from purple to yellow and orange and patterns included micro and macro florals, graphic details, Paisley prints and photographs of music…

PARIS June 22, 2017 Louis Vuitton creative director Kim Jones is also trying to appeal to the new generations with a collection that follows on from last season’s collaboration with streetwear brand Supreme. In the days leading up to the show, the brand had shared a number of previews on its official social media channels of a cool update to the Hawaiian shirt, which was obviously branded and/or veiled in organza, worn tucked into loose trousers with darts or oversize below-the-knee bermuda shorts or worn out over cycling shorts, or as a T-shirt. The rest of the clothes were mostly technical. Sporty outfits, trenches, track pants with drawstring cuffs and anoraks were all made with innovative materials, such as leather that resembled plastic or leather glued to neoprene. Anche Louis…

MILANO June 17, 2017 “Invoke diverse objects” was one explanation given by Francesco Risso to describe his new collection for Marni, which seemed to throw together a random selection of clothes, colours and patterns with seeming carelessness - see the loosened ties, half tucked-in knits and shirts, frayed sweaters and hastily tied baby hats. It was a stylish brand of randomness afforded by well-off young men of leisure; who else would wear two overlapping shirts, suits decorated with sailing boat motifs, bibs (designed by artist Magdalena Suarez) over beachwear, shirts sometimes held together with crochet seams, or tacked with swatches of fabric, which also appeared on trousers and bermuda shorts. The clashing patterns and colours drove the message home. “Invocare diversi oggetti” è una delle spiegazioni che dà Francesco Risso…

MILANO June 17, 2017 The rigour of uniforms is a constant feature in Neil Barrett’s work and this linear, structured collection was no different. A recurring theme were the single or double horizontal bands, either contrasting or metallic, on blazers, overcoats, blousons and on the hems of some of the carrot trousers. A basic T-shirt replaced a shirt under a jacket, a trench was worn over bare skin, while a shirt became a work jacket with buttons or, more often, a zip. The understated colour palette was dominated by black and white, followed by grey and military tones, with the odd flash of red and blue was added to a few of the outfits or else a detail such as a photograph reproduction on a white shirt with ¾ sleeves…

PARIS June 25, 2017 Sir Paul Smith could not help but be influenced by the return of the Hawaiian shirt. Next summer’s musthave piece reminded the British designer of the vintage Hawaiian shirts he bought in New York in the ’70s for his Nottingham shop. Some of those left unsold remained in the archives until becoming the inspiration for the prints in this new, fresh, fluid collection with a vintage touch. They included an exotic moonlit landscape, another of coral and hibiscus, a fun ‘Paul Smith’ brand of tuna and mackerel, while some floral motifs were reproduced in contrasting macro designs in bold, eye-catching colours. The prints were not confined to shirts but also featured on jackets, trousers, ties, big hand-held bags and espadrilles. Sir Paul Smith non poteva restare…

NEW YORK July 11, 2017 Film references (primarily to ‘Blade Runner’), cultures sliding together, a punk touch not so much in the clothes as in the attitude, college style and a bit of vintage. It was all there in Raf Simons’ new collection, which was shown on a dark, rainy runway. Inevitably, then, there were umbrellas, classic extra-wide brimmed hats that tied under the chin, gumboots and oversize trenches with single or doublebreasted or asymmetric fasteners, some in maxi-check, featuring metal hooks, sometimes pulled down over one shoulder to reveal shirts with contrasting insets and the word ‘replicant’. Oversize blazers and jumpers were topped in some of the looks by bibs or aprons with photograph prints, while trousers were loose bermuda shorts below the knee that just covered the tops…

PARIS June 25, 2017 Thom Browne remembers with touching affection a pair of bootees he wore as a baby, when the division between menswear and womenswear was not so clear cut. Growing up, social convention removes that freedom, a freedom that the designer chose to bring back by pairing a formal jacket with a skirt and heels. A straight, midcalf length skirt, pleated midi or above the knee skirt with striped sport socks, in office grey or chaste schoolgirl black, asymmetric or pinstripe - all teamed with matching or separate jackets, cropped and with three-quarter sleeves, monochrome or patterned, and white shirts sometimes worn as a dress. Sheaths and blazer-dresses were offered with or without sleeves, while trousers, bermuda shorts or calf-length, were in short supply. The final look was…

LONDON June 12, 2017 The collection had no theme, and if it’s Dame Vivienne Westwood herself saying it, we must believe it. Instead, there were many references to environmental issues, clean energy, peace and, in style terms, unisex fashion free from constraints and pigeonholing. The clothes and decorations went in this direction, with the models, some of whom were dancers and acrobats, dressed up as clowns in classic structured blazers and suits but also second-skin jumpsuits, frayed knits, dresses of various styles teamed with sky-high wedges. Everything was covered in playing card symbols designed by Westwood, representing a map of survival for a free world, as well as prints of the rainforest and little black circles representing the billions that disappear every day in global inflation. La collezione non ha…