With the start of the pheasants, my winter truly begins. While I would like to think that this is going to involve making a little more time for myself, enjoying some early nights as they draw in, taking advantage of the well-stocked summer’s larder, I know that is only a dream. From November through to the first day of February, I will be on a constant, high-octane blast around the region’s shoots, cooking lunches, elevenses and suppers for many shoot teams, beaters, loaders and pickers-up. The time available for a little foraging will, alas, be minimal but that is how it should be.
It’s a natural part of the whole cycle of the year for me. Blessedly there will be little to forage anyway — a few bitter greens, a…