Innholdsfortegnelse for Summer 2022 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, Our take on summer sewing is a bit different this year. Don’t worry: we’re still very much into linen loveliness and floaty silhouettes. And we still love sewing for its calm and relaxing effects (well, most of the time). But sometimes you need to get the energy flowing and move! Making (and using) your own athletic apparel can feel like the final frontier for sewists. We are here to help, with projects, hacks, and techniques to guide you on your way to creating a personalized athletic wardrobe. Let’s jump in, shall we? • Get strap happy with a sporty tank hack. Page 40 • Stitch a cool gym bag with holographic vinyl. Page 54 • Hack a one-piece swimsuit into a supportive sport dress. Page 44 • Create…

Anita Morris inspires and teaches women all over the world how to sew for the first time through her DIY fashion brand Anita by Design and online sewing course, “Learn to Sew, Mastering the Basics.” Anita also has a very successful YouTube channel with over 100K subscribers who enjoy her pattern reviews, sew-alongs, and other inspirational sewing content. Anita is a huge supporter of sisterhood and believes that women who stand together in support of one another are the strongest. She loves reading, lunch dates with girlfriends, hosting tea parties in her home, and dinner dates with her sons. Sew News: What’s your most treasured possession? Anita Morris: My most treasured possession is my sewing machine. I love sewing so much, and the machine is what makes me happy. Being…

When sewing elastic casing, the optimal length of the elastic varies depending on the project and type of elastic used. If there are no sewing pattern instructions, use these recommendations as a starting point. Leg openings on swimwear and underwear: If the garment will be stretched out when worn, use a 1:1 ratio at the front leg and reduce the elastic to about 80 to 85 percent at the back leg. This will keep the opening in place during movement. Necklines: On regular tops, use a 1:1 ratio. On tight-fitting leotards and swimwear, the elastic length can be shortened to about 85 to 90 percent. Waistbands: Body measurement + 1/2" ease. Measure where the waistband will sit on the body, not necessarily at your natural waist. If using very soft…

Rae exercises with her personal trainer. To her workouts, which are as strenuous as can be for a gal with a very fragile spine, she wears French terry or ponte Eureka! Pants that Fit, narrowed and finished with the contoured waistband from Glamour Details variation pattern with 2"-wide elastic. The pants are topped with Tabula Rasa Knit Tees or Tunics in rayon or cotton and spandex blends. Creator of Goheen Designs, Madi Stage’s workout consists of long distance running and classes at the local ninja gym. For both, she makes sure to find fabrics that are high performance, sweat wicking, and have a high percentage of spandex for great stretch and recovery. On top, she wears Madi Tanks made from lighter weight knits, often choosing a mesh for ultimate breathability.…

Download the free cutting file from www.sewdaily.com/ go/SNfreebies until August 31, 2022. SUPPLIES • Readymade knit T-shirt • Matching all-purpose thread • Ballpoint needle • Removable fabric marker • Cutting machine design file (see “Source”) • Heat-transfer vinyl (see “Source”) • Heat press (optional; see “Source”) PREPARE Position the T-shirt right side up on a flat work surface. Measure and mark 1" from each the neckline/shoulder-seam intersection along the shoulder seam. Measure and mark 7" below each shoulder mark. Draw a horizontal line to connect the two marks. Mark the T-shirt center front along the horizontal line. Draw a diagonal line to connect each shoulder-seam mark to the center-front mark (1). Cut along the lines on just the T-shirt front and close to the neckband on the back (2). To…

SUPPLIES • One- or two-piece swimsuit pattern (such as Sandpiper Swimsuit by Helen’s Closet Patterns) • Lightweight knit athletic fabric with 50-70% stretch (amount according to measurements) • Compression mesh, tricot, or fashion fabric (lining; amount according to measurements) • 1/2"- to 1"-wide plush-back elastic (amount according to measurements) • Foam cups (according to measurements) • Matching all-purpose thread • Stretch needle • Pattern or tracing paper • Serger (optional) MEASURE Measure from 1›1/2" below one underarm at your side to your waistline; record as the side-seam length. Measure at your center front from your waist- line to the desired skirt length; record. Measure from one bust apex to your under bustline; record as the bust radius. Measure your under-bustline circumference; record. Measure your hip circumference; record (1). ALTER Trace…

SUPPLIES • Wide-leg woven pants (such as Pagosa Pants by Sew News) • Woven fabric (amount according to measurements) • Matching or contrasting readymade double-fold 1/4"-wide bias tape • All-purpose thread • Pattern or tracing paper • Serger (optional) ALTER Trace a copy of the pants front and back pattern. On the pants front and back pattern, measure and mark from the crotch/inseam intersection to the desired shorts length (1). The featured shorts have a 4" inseam. Cut out. On the shorts front pattern, free- hand draw a curved corner from the lower edge to the side seam (2). Cut along the line. Repeat for the shorts back pattern. CUT From the woven fabric, cut two shorts fronts, two shorts backs, and two waistbands. CONSTRUCT Pin one shorts front to…

SUPPLIES • 3/4 yard of neoprene fabric • 1 yard of 11/4"-wide elastic • Size 16/100 or 18/110 universal needle • Contrasting 100% polyester thread • Temporary fabric glue stick • Pattern or tracing paper MEASURE Measure your natural waistline, or wherever you wish the skirt to sit, and then double the measurement. Divide the measurement by eight, and then multiply by .5; record as the waistline measurement. Measure your hipline, and then double the measurement. Divide the measurement by eight, and then multiply by .5; record as the hipline measurement. Measure from your waistline to hipline, and then add 1 1/2"; record as the waistline-to-hipline measurement. Measure from the chosen waistline position to the desired length, and then add 1 1/2"; record as the skirt length. To determine the…

POWER NET VS. POWER MESH Power net fabric is used in shapewear, bras, and swimwear. It’s more stable than power mesh, but power mesh has more stretch. Power net is a heavier mesh knit fabric with more compression and is used when a lot of support is needed. Power mesh fabric is a lightweight knit fabric with tiny holes that is used to add extra compression or support. It’s breathable, durable, and slightly sheer and has a soft hand and great stretch recovery. It has less compression and more stretch, making it more comfortable to wear. A good power mesh has four-way stretch and is made from either a blend of nylon or polyester and lycra. Most stores use power net and power mesh interchangeably; however, anything above 175 GSM…

SEW ALONG WITH US Register at sewdaily.com through July 31, 2022 to get the free Casco Cami pattern and video sew-along course. In addition to the free pattern and video, you’ll be automatically entered to win an AMBER ™ Air S | 400 overlock machine from Husqvarna® Viking® and prize pack from Riley Blake Fabrics when you register. THE PATTERN For workout or play, on its own or for layering, the Casco Cami is a summer wardrobe staple. This classic knit camisole features a simple silhouette, with bound edges and straps. Batch sew a few for outdoor adventuring or as a comfy, light pajama top. Plus the hacking options! This pattern is available in sizes 0–34 and with front options for a B cup and D cup. Find the Casco…

1 #SEWYOURCOLORS22 This fun, year-long challenge was created by Instagrammer @halesmooresewing and inspires you to sew (and share!) projects made with colors that look good on you and, more importantly, make you feel great! There are many resources out there to have your colors assessed, and it is always a great excuse to do more fabric shopping. 2 SEW DAILY NEWS This is the kind of news we like: sewing news! Join editors Amanda Carestio and Meg Healy every month on Sew Daily Network on YouTube to hear about the latest indie pattern releases in the community. Find out what they’re working on, their favorite new patterns, and the latest and greatest from SewDaily.com. 3 SEWING ON TIKTOK You may look to sewing inspiration and how-to on outlets like Instagram,…

SPECTACULAR SPANDEX Although spandex may bring to mind outdated skintight fashions of the ’80s and early ’90s, modern spandex-blend fabrics bring today’s knit garment patterns to their full potential. Spandex no longer means tight-fitting; instead, it allows for comfort and simplicity of construction. This lightweight, smooth, and supple fiber was originally introduced in 1958 by DuPont under the brand name Lycra. Spandex’s most significant characteristic is its ability to stretch up to 500 times its length and continually recover to its original shape. Spandex cannot stand alone and must be blended with other fibers. Host fibers such as cotton, rayon, wool, or bamboo allow the spandex fiber to create stable, resilient, versatile fabrics with excellent shape retention. Many knit fabrics get their wonderful stretch and recovery properties from the addition…

• Use a longer stitch length when serging stretched-out elastic. Since the elastic bounces back after stitching, the finished stitches will end up much shorter. A longer stitch length also enables smooth and even feeding, which can be an issue when serging over thick elastic. • Pre-stretch the elastic to prevent it from stretching out to a point where it won’t bounce back after serging. If the elastic still doesn’t recover, use steam to shrink it back. • Switch to a larger size needle if skipped stitches are a problem. Thick elastic can be quite dense to sew through, which sometimes causes issues with the stitching. Pulling the elastic excessively can also cause skipped stitches. • Place the elastic along the fabric edge and avoid cutting into the elastic with…

Brandon’s relationship with sewing started in 2017. Prior to that, he thrifted a lot of his clothes and left many cool pieces behind because they were too big, until he bought a Singer Heavy Duty 4432 to do some slight altering. Brandon’s first sewing projects included a simple pillowcase followed by a crossbody bag created from an old denim Carhartt jacket. His love for reworking grew from there. Several hundred YouTube videos later, Brandon is the self-taught sewist behind Happily Dressed, an online community dedicated to self-expression through handmade clothing. Sew News: What do you love most about sewing? Brandon Hayden: My favorite thing about sewing is being able to draft an outfit from scratch knowing that no one else will have this exact piece. Growing up as a twin,…

SUPPLIES • Athletic bike shorts with side accent panel (such as McCall’s M8208) • Four-way stretch knit fabric with 75% stretch (amount according to pattern envelope) • Faux stretch leather (amount according to measurements) • Double-sided 1/4"-wide water-soluble tape (see “Sources”) • All-purpose thread • Rotary cutting system • Pattern or tracing paper • Cardboard or cardstock PREPARE From the faux leather, cut at least ten 1/4"-wide × the fabric width strips. Finger-press to secure the water- soluble tape to the faux-leather strip wrong sides. From the knit fabric, cut out the pattern pieces according to the pattern instructions. CONSTRUCT Cut a 2"-wide strip from cardboard or cardstock to use as a spacer. Position one shorts side panel right side up on a flat work surface. Determine the diagonal angle…

FABRIC Both pattern types require a lightweight polyester/ lycra blend knit fabric. The fabric helps wick away moisture from the body and dry quickly. STRETCH A swimsuit pattern requires a fabric with 50–70% stretch, which is the same amount needed for an athleisure garment. SHELF BRA & LINING Athleisure dresses and swimsuits usually contain a built-in shelf bra with cups. If desired, include swimwear compression mesh lining for a secure, breathable garment.…

For an option to the traditional elastic waistband, try a shirred waistband. Wind a bobbin by hand with elastic thread, making sure it’s not wound too tight or too loose, but slightly taut. Insert the bobbin into the machine and select a 3.5mm stitch length. Thread the machine needle with all-purpose thread. Stitch the waistband 1/2" from the waistband upper edge. Continue stitching the waistband, spacing the stitching 1/2" apart (A). Using an iron, steam the waistband to shrink the elastic thread (B).…

PIECED UNDERWEAR Use cute knit fabric scraps and a simple alteration to create a fun pair of underwear. SUPPLIES • Basic underwear pattern (such as Acacia Underwear by Megan Nielsen Patterns or Dana Undies by Seamwork Magazine) • Light- to mediumweight stretch knit fabric scraps with four-way stretch and at least 20% stretch recovery (amount according to measurements) • Notions (according to pattern envelope) • All-purpose polyester thread • Ballpoint needle • Pattern or tracing paper ALTER From the underwear pattern, trace a copy of the front and back pattern pieces. On the front pattern, measure and mark the center point on each leg opening. Measure and mark 5" from each side seam along the waistline. Draw a diagonal line to connect each waistline mark to the corresponding leg-opening mark…

• Pre-wash and dry the fabric using the same method as how the finished garment will be laundered. • Check the fabric and chosen pattern stretch percentage to select the correct pattern size. • Use a rotary cutting system to cut out the pattern pieces. • Install a ballpoint needle into the machine. Select a stretch stitch, zigzag stitch, or serger for construction. • If pressing is needed, use a low-heat iron and press cloth. • Use a twin needle or a coverstitch machine to hem the garment. To finish garment edges with elastic, use a zigzag stitch or twin needle. • Topstitch the seam allowance away from sheer panels.…

This pretty picnic style was spotted at Paris Fashion Week, and it’s the perfect Parisian mood. We love a full silhouette, and this look is complete with gathers and tiers all sewn into a sleek strapless style that will keep you feeling cool in the summer sun. FABRIC COLOR PALETTE Join the gingham guild for this style or play with soft blue stripes. Combine tonal solid and textured fabrics together in the tiers for a playful effect. Tip: Feeling blue for the color blue? This look can be equally as effective in other pastel colors like pale yellow or pink! DRESS PATTERN Opt for a spaghetti strap dress with a baby doll silhouette and lots of volume and tiers! The more pouf the better, and you can even try and…

1. Have your furry friend around while you sew without the distraction! This Cat Pin Magnet from Dritz will bring a smile to your face every time you grab a pin. It easily attaches to the front of your sewing machine or any smooth surface around your sewing space. How many times have you have been sewing, and as you take out pins they find their way to the floor? Not any more with this sleek and sweet pin magnet! handicraft.com 2. If you’ve recently started the craft of cross-stitching and need design inspiration, look no further than C&T Publishing’s latest Fun & Funky Cross Stitch book filled with 160+ designs, five alphabets, along with 30 bonus gift ideas! This is a great pick for beginning cross-stitchers as it includes…

Q I want to create a personalized workout wardrobe for me. How do I get started? A Develop your workout wardrobe based on the type of exercise you choose and your fitting preferences. Pay attention to how you feel while working out. Is your current collection effortless to move in? If not, what needs to change: length, coverage, closeness of fit, breathability of fabrics? When you design and sew your own, the fit and fabric content are in your control. Make a list of your personal preferences for both tops and bottoms, considering where you fall on these continuums: • Soft and loose to firm and snug • Natural fibers (little or no spandex) to high-tech fibers (with spandex) • Covered up to very minimal coverage • Light and easy…

As a person who focuses on sewing menswear, it always seems that I am on the search for new and interesting patterns to sew. You can only buy the same button-down shirt or pajama pant pattern so many times before you get bored with the selection. I am the type of sewist that enjoys trying new patterns, not just for style but also for technique. It always amazes me to find how people go about getting a certain look either with different pattern pieces, a different order of operation, or even different material. I always look for as many different varieties in patterns as possible. Sadly in the department of men’s or masculine-inspired patterns, variety can be lacking. Even with so many different indie brands now and new pattern companies…

SUPPLIES • Racerback athletic tank pattern (such as Audrey by Jalie Patterns) • Athletic knit fabric with four-way & 50% stretch (amount according to measurements) • Stretch mesh or swimwear lining (lining; amount according to measurements) • Clear elastic (amount according to measurements) • Double-sided 1/4"-wide water-soluble tape (see “Sources”) • 2"-diameter metal ring • All-purpose thread • Rotary cutting system • Pattern or tracing paper • Loop turner • Serger (optional) ALTER Trace a copy of the bodice front, back, and lining patterns. Remove the strap from the back-bodice pattern and back-bodice lining pattern just above the upper-edge curve (1). On the front-bodice pattern, measure and mark the armscye and lower-edge midpoint. Draw a slightly curved line to connect the two markings; cut along the line (2). Tape the…

SUPPLIES • Raglan knit shirt pattern with 3/4-length sleeves (such as Finn Raglan T-shirt by Seamwork) • Nylon/lycra swim knit fabric with four-way stretch (amount according to measurements) • 9"-long nylon/polyester regular zipper • All-purpose polyester thread • Ballpoint needle • Removable fabric marker • Zipper foot • Serger (optional) CUT From the knit fabric, cut out the shirt pattern pieces according to the pattern instructions. If desired, mix and match fabric prints and solids. CONSTRUCT Measure the collar band width minus the seam allowance. Subtract the measurement from the zipper length; record as the zipper-placket length. For example, 1" – 3/8" = 5/8" and 9" – 5/8" = 8 3/8". Position the front bodice right side up on a flat work surface. Draw a vertical line beginning at the…

SUPPLIES • 11/3 yards of 60"-wide or 13/4 yards of 45"-wide water-resistant canvas or heavyweight canvas • 1/2 yard of 60"-wide or 1 yard of 45"- wide heavyweight duck cloth (lining) • 11/2 yards of heavyweight interfacing • 1 roll of holographic clear vinyl • All-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker • Two 11/2"-wide swivel clasps • Two 11/2"-wide triangle rings • 1"-wide slide adjuster • 16"-long #5 zipper by the yard • Two matching zipper pulls • Fabric clips (see “Source”) • 4 yards of 1"-wide twill tape • PTFE presser foot (optional) PREPARE Download the Downward Duffle pattern at www.sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies until August 31, 2022. Purchase the pattern at www.sewdaily.comafter the expiration date. Print out the pattern, and then cut out. From the canvas, cut two main panels, two…

SUPPLIES • Knit T-shirt pattern (such as the Classic Tee Shirt by Love Notions) • 11/8 yards of 56"-wide knit fabric (such as jersey) • Matching all-purpose thread • Pattern or tracing paper • Ballpoint sewing machine needle • Serger Note: Many construction and finishing steps are completed on a serger, but the T-shirt can be sewn using a conventional sewing machine and a stretch or zigzag stitch. ALTER Trace the full front top onto new pattern paper, transferring all markings. To create the front knot pieces, draw a guideline 1 1/2" below the waistline. Along that line, draw two points, one 1" in from the center front and the other 1 1/2" in from the side seam. Mark a second parallel line 11" below the waist, then square up…

When Kelly Wilson founded the Kansas City–based soft-furnishing business Weave Gotcha Covered! in 2005 with partner Lonnie Vanderslice, the plan was to take charge of their own futures. With experiences in homelessness, addiction, single parenthood, and a hard hit from the recession, they needed employment that could support their families but with schedule flexibility and a little human understanding. Since then, they have built their business to help solve community challenges and encourage growth and economic independence in marginalized communities. Though they have been employing and training women constrained by generational poverty, addiction, and incarceration since their founding, they had a desire to do even more for their local community. In 2016, long-time friend Linnca Stevens joined Weave Gotcha Covered! With a dream to duplicate their success at WGC and…

JULIAN COLLINS (“Sewing Menswear, Volume 1” – page 30) works in public health during the day but loves to bring joy to the world through his colorful menswear creations by night. His work has been featured in multiple publications including Sewn Magazine and Sew News. He is a BERNINA and Laurastar Ambassador. When he is not sewing, he loves connecting with people throughout the sewing community, especially in his Facebook group Sew “Manly.” RUSSELL CONTE (“Using Industrial Machines” – page 74) believes the act of taking a yard or two (or 10) of cloth and cajoling it into a garment, a quilt, or a shoe is as close to alchemy as you can get. And teaching folks how to master it themselves and be a part of someone’s exploration of…